Author Topic: Peewees' MOL (Read 22813 times)

PeeWee · « **on:** May 21, 2010, 05:14:07 PM »

Hi All,

well yesterday evening there was a knock on the door and a very kind neighbour handed over a large brown box. On it was a label saying Clyde Model Boats. I calmed myself down before picking up a very large kitchen knife and opened up the box.

Here are a few pictures of its contents.

some pieces are easy to work out such as the frames and paddle wheel kit

but i have absolutely no idea on these items

but i am sure all will fall into place. the Superstructure is also there but made out of very thin plasticard for weight so its still wrapped up till required.

the build may me slow as i am also building a HMT Jura in parallel.

cheer Kim for a very nice Hull and Semi Kit.

PS the windows on the hull is one area that i am so not looking forward to, but that said i am seriously looking forward to this build.

djcf · « **Reply #1 on:** May 22, 2010, 04:59:28 AM »

Hi Peewee
Its always nice to get a big box of goodies through the post....by the way I think some of those parts in your last pic are for the lifejacket locker on top of the after deckhouse (appologies if I am wrong!!)
A method for cutting windows in a fibreglass hull that has worked for me is - mark out the window positions accurately on the hull side, use a dremel/mini drill to drill out most of the waste, then I use the side of the drill (about a 2/3mm bit)to grind away (dont force it!)to within 1mm or so of the line then finish with a file.
Needless to say best done outside with eye protection & dust mask.
Good luck with your dual builds
Clark

Talisman · « **Reply #2 on:** May 22, 2010, 05:48:08 AM »

Hi All,
Clark your spot on -
Life jacket lockers stern (long)
Life Jacket Lockers behind Bridge (short)
Bridge front (curved edge up & follow the curve of the bridge wings )
Bridge rear (rectangle)
Bridge sides ( small rectangles)
Companion way side formers (3mm Styrene)

Hope that clears it up.
Kim

PeeWee · « **Reply #3 on:** May 22, 2010, 07:21:34 AM »

Cheers Kim for the heads up on the items. makes total sense now apart from the companion way side formers, though i am sure i will fine them on the plan.

PeeWee · « **Reply #4 on:** June 08, 2010, 11:13:33 PM »

Hi All,

This may be a silly question that has not been thought through at all by myself.

I have always been intrested in steam and was wondering if this model would a, be suitable for steam and b, be over ambitious as my first live steam boat?

All answers, leg pulling or total ridicule accepted

Eddy Matthews · « **Reply #5 on:** June 08, 2010, 11:41:03 PM »

I don't think the Wee Lorne would be suitable for steam Ian - Having seen the hull, I'd guess it will have a displacement of around 12 lbs, which isn't a lot when it comes to live steam...

I'm not saying it's impossible, anything is possible with enough thought and money put into it!

Bear in mind that the displacement I quoted above is only a guess, I haven't done any calculations to back it up, but I don't think I'll be far out.

Regards
Eddy

P.S. Later in the year Kim is bringing out a hull/plans and a set of paddlewheels for the Lingdale paddletug, which would probably be much more suitable.

R.G.Y. · « **Reply #6 on:** June 08, 2010, 11:59:28 PM »

Eddy, my Glen Usk sails all up at 10lbs with a steam plant. But then the boat is only 5lb with the ballast. With a heavy fiber glass hull Like you say very little chance. R.G.Y.

PeeWee · « **Reply #7 on:** June 09, 2010, 08:04:00 PM »

Well that solves that.

cheers

Hankwilliams · « **Reply #8 on:** June 09, 2010, 09:36:00 PM »

Hi Eddy, Pee Wee and others,

I will drive the Wee Lorne with steam. I will made a piston slide engine with loco cylinders by Regner (bore and stroke 12 to 16 mm) and a light aluminium base
I think, it's not as difficult as it seems in the first moment. My sidewheeler "Welf" of about the same hull dimensions has a displacement of 6 kg.

And the fourwheel sidewheeler "Tachtalia" (see construction) with a self made fiber glass hull, two small oscillating engines and a lenght of 151 cm has only 4,4 kg displacement.

I also made the "Mount Washington" live steam. Althought in this case same altertions were necessery (extention of hull depht, removable floats of balsa at each side for better buoyancy).
The problem of the Mount lies in the extensive superstructure, also electric driven without alterations
the stability is not sufficient.

Sorry, if not all words in correct English, I dont have my dictionary in the moment.

Tom

PeeWee · « **Reply #9 on:** July 18, 2010, 04:13:11 AM »

Hi All PD's
Well i have dusted her down after a short break and have marked all of the cutouts ready. I have not decided if to cut the lower port holes or not. any thoughts? if i do what sort of portholes did she have?

regards

djcf · « **Reply #10 on:** July 18, 2010, 05:53:16 AM »

Hi Peewee,
Nice to see you making a start...regarding the ports, as far as I have discovered, 12 inch and 10 inch dia. were common on clyde paddlers of the "Lorne's" vintage...10" ones near the waterline.
At 1:48 you can use 1/4 inch and 7/32 inch brass tubing for ports. I used "Trylon" clear casting resin for the glass.
I followed Mick's method in his Princess Elizabeth build thread....it works well.
Clark

R.G.Y. · « **Reply #11 on:** July 19, 2010, 05:59:51 AM »

Sorry Peewee, I said no chance that was a bit harsh!! Thinking about it the hull is relatively heavy but it is low down. If the superstructure it kept very light there is a possibility? The main problem is not the engine, but the boiler this has high center of gravity. I see you have looked at the Duke build I just weighed her especially for you. With out the machinery 6lb I still have to add rails on the boat deck, install the portholes and paint the hull. So should finish about 6.5lb not bad for a 6ft hull. For my portholes I use brass tube fixed and filled with clear bath silicone. This can be smoothed and removed with a rag dipped in white spirit and it won't leak or crack.This is done after painting as of course silicone won't take paint.

R.G.Y.

mjt60a · « **Reply #12 on:** July 19, 2010, 06:46:07 AM »

I look forward to following this build (as I do all of them!) I haven't seen a hull like that before, instead of fixing the sponsons to it you just have to construct water tight paddledrums inside....

PeeWee · « **Reply #13 on:** July 21, 2010, 01:32:54 AM »

Thank you for the weight info on the boat. i have decided to keep the MOL electric however i may try to put the engine into a longer hull therefore requiring more mass to bring her to the correct waterline. at least that's my armature interpretation of a ships displacement.

i will be need ing lots of assistance once that project is started so i apologise now to all PD'd in advance

PeeWee · « **Reply #14 on:** July 21, 2010, 01:36:38 AM »

Well i had a day off so spent most of it inhailing fiberglass, a mask was worn but did not help 100%

i daisy drilled all of the windows etc follwed by filing then finished with sanding sticks. some of the holes will need some minor filling once the window frames etc are in.

next stem rudder, paddle holes and internal layout.

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