Peewees' MOL

[PeeWee]

Hi ken,  i thought of that but one of the 3 sides has a door that would end up on the wrong side.

the offending part has now been replaced and looks much better.     however i did have a slight slip with a very sharp scalpel whilst removing the old sides.      new index finger required. 

[steamboatmodel]

yep, will have to cut the 3 front sides off and re do them.  hopefully i have some thin styrene

You could put a panel in and say its a cats door.
Regards,
Gerald.

[PeeWee]

I like your train of thought.

well here is the new front


added the rudder and its servo mount


however i had not realised how much the hull had splayed at the top edges.  so i have added 2 braces in the middle and have a couple of clamps pulling it back in.



looking at the clamped image i am wondering how to make the wheels removeable or for ease should they be made to never come out?  though that worries me a little.

[Talisman]

Hi Ian,
Re the wheels.
I have attached a pic of a possible solution.
Personally  i will make just the landing platforms lift off.
If it's that bad that a wheel needs major surgery then i will deal with it when it happens. (more angle grinder and brute force than key hole  techniques )

There are many other ways but unless you sit on them, drop them etc  then they shouldn't require removing i would think.

[mjt60a]

On my model, the paddleshaft is in two short parts and the wheels attach using a meccano collet. when the wheel is loosened the shaft can be pulled into the hull and the wheel lowered out of the paddledrum. (the strip carrying the feathering mechanism must be detached first!) If I had a single motor and no independant drive, I'd do it the same way and connect them using a short length between the two halves with some type of couplings to link them once both wheels are back in place....

[PeeWee]

the double motor option does sound like an option, then if i decide to throw in a mixer or use the controllers programming then there would be little reworking.  i also have enough motors belt drives etc as well.

I have a spare 20 minutes so knocked up the landing platforms.  but no matter how often i measure they are correct.  however in a dry fit the top of the wheel will just scrape them.  i will have to either work out how to lower the wheels or increase their height slightly out of scale.



regards

[Tug--Kenny]

On my model, the paddleshaft is in two short parts and the wheels attach using a meccano collet. when the wheel is loosened the shaft can be pulled into the hull and the wheel lowered out of the paddledrum.

This is an excellent way of doing it. I used this method on my Paddle Springer and it works well. 

My Waverley has removable paddle box sides, but you have to also remove the feathering support bar.

Ken

[djcf]

Hi Ian,
Regarding the wheels rubbing/ landing platforms, as far as I can remember, and without seeing the plans, I am sure the wheels on the MoL protrude slightly above promenade deck level, so if this is the case you would have to make sure you have cut away enough of the decking under the platform to ensure free rotation of the wheel (Kims Jupiter wheel pic shows this).
 Nice repair on the after deck saloon by the way

Clark

[Talisman]

Hi Ian,

As Clark says if you have removed the deck beneath the landing platforms all should be ok.
I'm sure you have , but just in case - have you included the belting in your measurement of the paddle box sides? (From memory) It adds another 6mm depth to the paddle boxes and may allow you to drop your axle.
Mine fit ok. If your still struggling let me know.
Regards
Kim

[R.G.Y.]

My method is to make all of the top removable. Slots are cut in the hull down to the shaft position.  The bearing blocks fit inside (or outside) the hull sealed with silicone and screwed from the out side (or inside), sealing the slots. All though I have never had trouble (touch wood)  Geoff

[PeeWee]

Thank you all for your ideas and pictures, its been a great help.

not much to show for several hours in the shop.  All landing platforms have been added though some blending still needed,  each one is made from 2 sheets of styrene glued together.

its geeting to that time when i am starting to think of painting the hull.  Any ideas on the correct colouring?

cheers


decided to cut the rear into the hull to ensure that it can not be knocked off.

[Mercury]

Ian,

CSP hull colouring should be relatively simply with white topsides, black hull, white line and then red underbody (typically a red oxide type colour (most models I've seen use halford's red oxide - the primer works quite well). I'm not sure of the exact colour of red used  perhaps someone can provide this but antifouling is always matt in finish so the primers reflect this well. If you are planning to model her post 1948 the white line should be narrow and follow the waterline, if it's before this date it should be broad and the top should follow the sheer of the hull. It's eay to define this on CSP paddlers as they changed the line style when they fitted wheelhouses.
Up until the late 50's they also had gold lining on the hull - the exact details can be taken from photo's. There are also brown lines at the join between the black and white and at the deck edge. Again these began to be omitted in later years but I suspect MoL always had them.
Interestingly the clyde turbines never carried the gold lining - perhaps becase the first, King Edward, was built for John Williamson a private owner rather than a railway company and he was notoriously stingy when it came to liveries! As an interesting aside when he died in 1924 his company painted a blue mourning band on their fleet for the next season - I bet we won't see that happen again!

This livery has lasted all the way through to Calmac although they removed the white line in the 1980s at the same time as they started to add grafiti to the hulls and topsides. Don't get me started on the Gaelic names.....

Hope this helps - you chould be able to define exact locations for the various lines from photo's.

Richard

[PeeWee]

Cheers Richard.

I was looking at the hull this morning trying to workout the next stages.  something kept nagging the back of my mind. i left it for half hour or so and then went back in to the shop, t then dawned on me, 
 
the front windows were too short.  see pic were some have been corrected


then looking at the pictures and the plans again i realised that i had done something even more stupid.


yes i had install the rear section too high.

after a day in the shop we now have the windows corrected


and lowered the rear section including reinforcing the now weak rear hull


a whole days work but i am now far more happy with her.

[PeeWee]

Hi All,

well i received my tulip wood this afternoon at work.  once home i did a trial section, the caulking is halfords grey primer.  there are some small areas of grey where i did not fully sand the planks before painting the edges.

what are your thoughts on the colour? it has had 1 coat of clear varnish.