Peewees' MOL

[Eddy Matthews]

That looks like a nice neat job Ian, and lets face it, that's probably the worst part of the build done!

Regards
Eddy

[Talisman]

Good job Ian, as Eddy says that should be the worst behind you.
Cheers
Kim

[PeeWee]

Thank you both.

I have a few quick questions,  does anyone have any pictures of the MoL's windows?

Also does anyone know what the deck camber was and if the deck/hull join was clean or was the deck slightly below the top of the hull?

[Eddy Matthews]

I don't know if this helps Ian, but it might.....

Eddy

[Talisman]

Hi Ian,
The Deck toHull join is slightly bellow the hull top. If you have a look at the plan just to the rear of the bridge wing there is a dimension of 7'3'' down to deck level and beneath that another dimension of 7'3'' where the two arrow heads meet is the deck line at the joint between hull and deck. You'll notice the meeting of the arrow heads conveniently join at the line of upper, Black coach line.
Personally I have mounted my sub deck just a fraction beneath this line which gives a very slightly lower gutter. The 1.5mm ply deck edge then forms the inside edge of the 6'' gutter and the correct deck height (dam near anyway).

Not making it easy for yourself are you .... Personally i will ignore the camber as there is more sheer than camber and to form both is going to be difficult. I will however put camber in the deck house roofs and follow the camber of the bridge top.
As for windows let me have a search on my comp .... back shortly.
Regards,
Kim



 

[Talisman]

Not having much luck with Fore windows but a pretty good pic of Aft ones if it helps
Cheers
Kim

[mjt60a]

would they be the same as Caledonia? I think I have the article in model boats somewhere...

[PeeWee]

I am intending to plank the decks of the MoL, as in a previous post i have calculated the planks need to be 2mm wide.  however on thinking this through and in an attempt to reduce the planking workload i am now thinking of using 3mm planks.  would this look odd?

on as separate planking question, does anyone know what length they should be?  and what the join separation of the repeat  is, ie a 3 or 4 butt sequence?

cheers

[Stuart Badger]

Hi PeeWee

given MOL's build date the planks probably wouldn't have been any longer than 25 feet max. I don't know for SURE the butt sequence - but I would imagine no less than 4.

Are you planning to use thread or paper for the caulking?

All the best

Stuart

[djcf]

Hi Peewee,

Can't say for sure about the MoL, but I am working on a contempary (late 30s) Clyde built vessel.

 I didn't plank the decks individually, I drew them on, but the sizes are 20 foot planks, with a 4 butt sequence, plank width on real vessel 4 inches so on the model (1:48 ratio) I rounded the width up to 3mm.

regards
Clark

[PeeWee]

Thank you for the responces.  i think i will certainly increase the width of the planking to 3mm on a 4 butt seperation.

On the caulking front i used to use black card of varying weights depending on the scale.  however this time i am not sure, i want the caulking to be noticed but not too prominent.  i picked up a copy of Brian Kings Advanced Modeling a few weeks back and on narrow planks he recommends grey primer as a subtle looking option.  so i am now thinking of making a few test sections to see which would be suitable.

[djcf]

Hi Peewee,
I just checked the model I refered to in my previous post, and the planks are a scale 20 feet long, (5 inches on the model), not the 16 feet long I previously stated.
 I have edited my previous post to say this.
Clark

[PeeWee]

thank you for the update

[R.G.Y.]

This is just my thoughts on planks. Of course it depends on the age and type of ship. Boats built to a price would avoid timber over 20ft it would be a lot more expensive. Using random lengths is more likely, this avoids the pattern of joints running across the deck. With frames close together there are plenty of opportunity to keep joints 3 planks apart. I have seen planks butted between frames and a noggin inserted to carry the joint, and planks spanning just 2 frames. OK may have been rough repairs!! Caulking in a half inch gap? not on end to end joints timber moves very little length ways. This is on old sailing ships true not paddlers or Admiralty. Geoff

[PeeWee]

Hi All,

well i have done a little more today though not much to show.  started on the brass paddles




i am not sure is i should silver solder or use thread lock to secure the tiny nuts and bolts.

I also discovered that the rims will need drilling around the centre to enable them to be bolted to the hub, though this is not really a problem.  the paddles were simple if time consuming as the holes had been etched out.