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Author Topic: Totnes Castle  (Read 12189 times)

Offline R.G.Y.

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Re: Totnes Castle
« Reply #90 on: June 13, 2018, 06:38:39 PM »
Having used spring bronze, (Thanks Derek) I wish now I had used brass & silver soldered the joints. I will have to epoxy the floats in place now. Don't want them to melt the rest.
Can't say I altered the plan because there isn't one. But I dished the inner wheel more than the outer in the end.
G.Y.

Offline derekwarner_decoy

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Re: Totnes Castle
« Reply #91 on: June 13, 2018, 08:46:34 PM »
Always more than one way to skin the cat :shhh...but using epoxy as a composite build sequence sounds a great idea RGY   :hammer .....will you use wooden floats?.... Derek
Derek Warner

Honorary Secretary [Retired]
Illawarra Live Steamers Co-op
Australia
www.ils.org.au

Offline R.G.Y.

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Re: Totnes Castle
« Reply #92 on: June 14, 2018, 04:12:50 AM »
The original had iron floats, non feathering. So tin plate as I have some left from the hull. Coming on Derek.
I have done a little to the engine. Post later, if I have time, when I come back from pub.
G.Y.

Offline R.G.Y.

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Re: Totnes Castle
« Reply #93 on: June 14, 2018, 07:09:01 PM »
Started work on the engine. Drilled & turned the cylinders & end caps off centre. Simply done by packing one jaw of the chuck. The reason so I can mill down the port face to increase the width. (arrow & black mark) Also reducing the amount of metal, reducing start up condensation. 
G.Y.

Offline R.G.Y.

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Re: Totnes Castle
« Reply #94 on: June 16, 2018, 07:00:10 PM »
  Back to the wheels.The floats will be fitted so. the tabs will give the epoxy plenty to grip.
« Last Edit: June 16, 2018, 07:03:30 PM by R.G.Y. »
G.Y.

Offline R.G.Y.

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Re: Totnes Castle
« Reply #95 on: June 22, 2018, 01:04:15 AM »
Laid out as original plan. But original Standard sadly distorted when silver soldering together I got it to hot. A change of plan I now intend have two output gears one at 3to1 the other at 5to1. Three to one is my normal preference. But the 12 floats (paddles) are very close together so will start with 5to1. If this is slow can use 3to1 without much trouble.
I have remade the standard,  Second attempt soldered the bar then machined it after, this stopped any distortion. Stainless pivot bar fitted, will cut out inner section later. Large hole for removable crank bearing.  Just the exit holes to the ports to drill when the crank it finished & blank off the 4 ports at entry end.
G.Y.

 

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