Paddleducks

Paddler Modelling => Construction => Topic started by: R.G.Y. on November 14, 2012, 04:42:23 AM

Title: Totnes Castle
Post by: R.G.Y. on November 14, 2012, 04:42:23 AM
I have been considering my next build for some time. I have collected enough information and a plan for the COMPTON CASTLE.  BUT I have decided in the light of the last build Duke of Devonshire, I will get the engine working first. So looking at my bits and pieces I have found a set of gears and trimmed them on the lathe. Some sort of alloy can't remember where they came from. Enough bar stock to make a mark 2 vertion of the Duke's engine. This time I will be posting the build. May be I should have posted in steam? Geoff
Title: Re: Totnes Castle
Post by: Eddy Matthews on November 14, 2012, 04:55:49 AM
Great to see a new build thread Geoff, I'll follow this one with interest as I've always fancied building a model of her sister ship the Kingswear Castle....

Regards
Eddy
Title: Totnes Castle
Post by: R.G.Y. on November 14, 2012, 06:33:02 AM
This will be the Totnes Castle of 1894. She differed from the later Dartmouth boats in that the main deck is not extended out to the paddle boxes. Well that's a good start forgotten the name already. :squareone  Sorry Eddy is it possible to alter the name of the tread. Geoff
Title: Re: Totnes Castle
Post by: Eddy Matthews on November 14, 2012, 06:44:36 AM
This will be the Totnes Castle of 1894. She differed from the later Dartmouth boats in that the main deck is not extended out to the paddle boxes. Well that's a good start forgotten the name already. :squareone  Sorry Eddy is it possible to alter the name of the thread. Geoff

Consider it done Geoff :)

Regards
Eddy
Title: Re: Totnes Castle
Post by: R.G.Y. on November 15, 2012, 04:12:49 AM
The design for the engine. As the boat will be smaller than the Duke, one foot shorter at 5ft.  The bore will be the same @ 1/2 " but stroke reduced from 1" to 3/4" saving 25% of steam per revolution as it is double acting twin. With this I hope to use the original boiler I made for the Duke which failed to produce enough steam, for the larger engine.
 Cylinder length 3/4stroke + 1/2 piston + 1/4 for steam spaces & end cap spigots =1-1/2". Distance between cylinder pivot & centre of crank half piston 3/4 + 1/2 for end cap & gland nut + 3/8for big end + 3/8 throw of the crank = 2" minimum as long as its more than this OK. Below, the pink bit is the main body ( pink because been in citric acid after silver soldering) The dark bits are the port faces, one has had the back filed to remove metal (less to heat up so reducing condensation , I hope) as I have increased the thickness to give more space at the crank end. Geoff
Title: Re: Totnes Castle
Post by: derekwarner_decoy on November 15, 2012, 06:02:14 AM
Hi PD's...... :whistle ...you know RGY....we will all be watching.....good luck with the build.....your mate in OZ  :beer ......Derek
Title: Re: Totnes Castle
Post by: R.G.Y. on November 15, 2012, 08:48:18 PM
Always good to have encouragement from you Derek. :respect :respect Knowing you are watching  :sunglasses :sunglasses keeps us on the straight and narrow. Your frendly pommy B******* . Geoff
Title: Re: Totnes Castle
Post by: R.G.Y. on November 17, 2012, 07:24:33 AM
A little progress, bored both cylinders, flattened the port faces on a diamond hone. Will be lapping them properly later. Drilled for the pivot pin in the frame and the port faces, also cut the pin, This looks long as it won't be pushed in until the end. I have removed metal from the back of one port face. Finally I cut one end cap this will be a tricky bit as there isn't a lot of metal to drill for the six retaining bolts at 10BA. This one will be used as a pattern to drill the cylinders and the other caps. Oh! the piece of mild steel will be the patten for the ports. Geoff
Title: Re: Totnes Castle
Post by: R.G.Y. on November 20, 2012, 09:47:14 PM
I have drilled the holes in the cylinders & end caps. Very tricky for me as I don't have a rotary table or a drill on the tool post. Could have used the 4 jaw but with hexagon bar would have been time consuming. Geoff
Title: Re: Totnes Castle
Post by: R.G.Y. on November 22, 2012, 03:12:07 AM
Well it is very quiet on paddleducks. Is no one doing anything?? No one is asking any questions ( how did you drill those holes Geoff ??). With 1.8mm at the thinnest point & only 3mm at the very point of the hexagon, drilling the 1.4 tapping size hole for 10BA, made me sweat a little. First after boring the cylinder, I marked the centre between the widest point & the inside of the cylinder. positioning the corner of a tool, then turn the chuck by hand scoring a line around, remove from lathe. A steel rule placed on opposite points score a line, centre punch the intersection. Fix in the drill vice making sure its upright, with a square with a machine level on the horizontal arm. Lower the drill bit into the centre pop, if the drill deflects gently tap the vice (soft hammer) until the drill dose not move. Then start the drill and drill the hole.
But not all roses in fact disaster, when I silver solder I normally dim the lights so I can see the color of the metal. I didn't switch of the light see the result below.   I am posting photos hoping there will be questions. Geoff
Title: Re: Totnes Castle
Post by: derekwarner_decoy on November 22, 2012, 06:10:20 AM
Hi PD's.......I find it fun Geoff drilling & tapping 10 BA :hammer ....& BTW that new camera & the lessons are working a treat...... :s_cool ......Derek

PS.....mmmmm I haven't quite figured what this brass block will be yet :whistle ....but it is held together with six 10 BA brass studs  :hehe
Title: Re: Totnes Castle
Post by: steamboatmodel on November 22, 2012, 08:58:30 AM
Hi Geoff,
I am following your build when I get a chance, but  i am moving homes after 29 years at the current address so don't normally have time for anything but a quick look at the forums.
Regards,
Gerald.

Well it is very quiet on puddleducks. Is no one doing anything?? No one is asking any questions ( how did you drill those holes Geoff ??). With 1.8mm at the thinnest point & only 3mm at the very point of the hexagon, drilling the 1.4 tapping size hole for 10BA, made me sweat a little. First after boring the cylinder, I marked the centre between the widest point & the inside of the cylinder. positioning the corner of a tool, then turn the chuck by hand scoring a line around, remove from lathe. A steel rule placed on opposite points score a line, centre punch the intersection. Fix in the drill vice making sure its upright, with a square with a machine level on the horizontal arm. Lower the drill bit into the centre pop, if the drill deflects gently tap the vice (soft hammer) until the drill dose not move. Then start the drill and drill the hole.
But not all roses in fact disaster, when I silver solder I normally dim the lights so I can see the color of the metal. I didn't switch of the light see the result below.   I am posting photos hoping there will be questions. Geoff
Title: Re: Totnes Castle
Post by: Mercury on November 22, 2012, 09:57:54 AM
Geoff,

I don't know much about steam so appologies for the dumb questions. Are you using drawings or your own design and I take your making all components from scratch (apart from the gears)?

How do you find stability using a steam engine in a paddler? Do you deepen the hulls?

Richard
Title: Re: Totnes Castle
Post by: R.G.Y. on November 22, 2012, 09:30:58 PM
Richard, I have heard it said the only dumb questions are the ones you don't ask.
Yes it is my own design, there are no drawings as it is a simple engine as engines go. (hopefully this one will). It is a mark 2 version of the engine I made for the Duke of Devonshire. I didn't post that build. As with all prototypes it had several things that can be improved, hopefully. Yes again all the parts are from bar stock, except the gears. If I ever have any thing that is beyond repair (most things now a days) I always save gears, bolts or any thing I think will be useful one day.
As for stability my first paddler Glen Usk sails on 1-1/2" draft, with a steam plant.  I didn't know any better then. Had to fit a lump of lead 3" below the hull, this also swivels acting as a extra rudder. But the Duke has an extra inch of draft, and if you look I have endeavored to reduce top weight on the boiler.
Derek It is the camera not the operator.
I am surprised no one has asked what is happening in photo 2 Geoff
Title: Re: Totnes Castle
Post by: R.G.Y. on November 22, 2012, 09:32:55 PM
Gerald, my sympathies I dread to think if that happened to me.

10 BA tapping can be a trial but I made a tapping stand from a cheep hand drill stand. Not my idea saw it in a mag. 24 holes tapped in less than 5 mins and no broken taps. Geoff
Title: Re: Totnes Castle
Post by: R.G.Y. on November 24, 2012, 04:21:46 AM
Coming on now, completed the crank today. Note the inside of the arm has been relieved to increase the width of the bearing. No play this weekend unfortunately.  AGM of bowling club in morning then wedding (not mine) in afternoon. Sunday off motor bike enduro racing, what will the mud be like? after the monsoon this week. Geoff
Title: Re: Totnes Castle
Post by: R.G.Y. on November 27, 2012, 03:48:52 AM
So you all know what is happening in the 7th photo in this thread? Well I am going to tell you any way. I am aligning the ports with the con rod , as when I silvered the port face to the cylinder it moved. So no good measuring off the edge of that. Geoff
Title: Re: Totnes Castle
Post by: R.G.Y. on November 27, 2012, 09:31:16 PM
Almost there just the regulator- reverser & the ports to drill. But then the horrible job of lapping in the faces. The studs which hold the end caps are from 1/2" 10BA screws. First set them in with locthight with 2 nuts on, when set part the nuts & cut off. (between the nuts). When the nuts are removed the thread will be restored. I am left with 24 3/16" bolts I plan to use on the paddle wheels. Geoff
Title: Re: Totnes Castle
Post by: derekwarner_decoy on November 27, 2012, 10:39:54 PM
Hi PD's.... & all very interesting RGY......tell us :whistle @ the AGM of the Bowlo club,,,,, were you re-elected "El Presienentie"?  ......Derek :a102 ......
Title: Re: Totnes Castle
Post by: R.G.Y. on November 28, 2012, 04:15:11 AM
NO Derek you should know I am into boats, so the CAPTAINS Job for me again.  :police: Geoff
Title: Re: Totnes Castle
Post by: R.G.Y. on November 29, 2012, 03:30:48 AM
I should have finished the engine today. But I should never have gone in the workshop, not at all well touch of flu. (man, bird, pig, Asian, cow or what I don't know.)  I was keen to get it running tomorrow, but not now. I took to much off the piston so had to make a new one. Then I decided to mill a grove down the centre of the frame, the Collete came lose so the frame ruined. I would have spent 34 hours on it as i only play 3 hours a day in the week and have Sat & Sun off. So today Spent 6 hours to get back where I was this morning. THis all happened after I had drilled the steam passages & ports using the Stan Bray method, as below.  Geoff
Title: Re: Totnes Castle
Post by: R.G.Y. on November 30, 2012, 03:48:48 AM
 All day lapping aaaaaand fitting aaaand adjusting.  :'( The scrap frame & new one with marker pen on the port face. After 2 movements of the cylinder face & a good seal around the ports. I have adjusted the pistons so they just touch the holes in the cylinders both ends. just had to skim 1mm off each piston ends. Then screw the big end in and out until exactly right, with loctight on the threads. The con rod has a 6BA thread in the piston & a 7BA in the big end, this is so it will pass through the gland in the cap. As the 6BA expands the rod. Geoff
Title: Re: Totnes Castle
Post by: R.G.Y. on December 04, 2012, 09:02:53 PM
Still not quite finished, other things got in the way. Made the reversing control, as I don't have a rotary table had to bodge. Taking a length of 1"x 1/8" bar marking out & drill pivot hole. Place rod in vice centre, fit bar, move sideways required amount rotate by hand & feed cutter down slowly.  This was an improvement on the last one I made, not having a mill before. I had to cut a slice off a 1" rod chain drill the slots right through and file clean, then silver solder a plate on the back. 
Title: Re: Totnes Castle
Post by: R.G.Y. on December 08, 2012, 08:39:24 PM
News on the local radio. The P.S. KINGSWEAR CASTLE is coming back to south Devon. Half an hour drive from my home, on a good day one & a half hours in the summer. She will be plying up the River Dart to Totnes & back, as she did in her working days. So I may only may, change my plan and build her instead. The only down side is she has been modeled before. I do like something different. Geoff
Title: Re: Totnes Castle
Post by: R.G.Y. on December 14, 2012, 09:57:54 PM
Back from holiday  :vacation & had the engine running. See the video only short but it proves it will self start, just needs bedding in now. One disadvantage with design can't turn it over with a drill.  :16 Geoff
 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8bF6oH9bNWA
Title: Re: Totnes Castle
Post by: R.G.Y. on December 23, 2012, 09:25:38 PM
Run the engine in here is a much better video. Geoff
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7PsbzyY5hjQ
Title: Re: Totnes Castle
Post by: R.G.Y. on December 24, 2012, 01:10:36 AM
Deciding on the scale next. My engine will drive a model up to 6ft long with no trouble. The Totnes Castle was 79.5ft BP & 85ft over all by 13.33" beam plus paddle boxes @ 4.5" each.  So .75" =1ft will give a model 63.75" x 10" room for the plant & fits in to my car. I will be adding 1" to the depth of hull for more stability, as 6.9ft=5.25" plus 1" = 6.25". The wheels @10ft x 4ft = 7.5" x 3", they will be easy to make as the floats are fixed but there are 12 of them.   Geoff
Title: Re: Totnes Castle
Post by: derekwarner_decoy on December 24, 2012, 09:02:14 AM
Hi PD's.......mmmmmmmm just thinking RGY.....and with a little designers licence  :hehe ...you could leave the engine room & boiler room without a roof  :hammer

Not much good on a rainy day   :nono ....but how beautiful to view the splender of your engine & boiler working....... :s_cool

Merry Christmas to you...........Derek  :beer
Title: Re: Totnes Castle
Post by: R.G.Y. on December 24, 2012, 08:52:01 PM
Sorry Derek I am a rivet counter, so could not deviate from scale. Any way the rain in Devon never stops. 
Yes a  very happy Christmas :beer to you Derek, I know you will be looking. Your winging pommy friend. & of course the same to every one who has followed my threads. GEOFF
Title: Re: Totnes Castle
Post by: R.G.Y. on January 01, 2013, 01:43:50 AM
 I have been looking at KIM's Volcanic paddle wheels :bravo worth a gold medal.
 Been in the shop started TC's wheels. At 10" they would need a lot of aluminium if cut from the solid as I have done in the past. So being careful (tight) :a102 I will be building them from strip, angle 1/8" which I will be making from recycled ali. Will be using jigs as I did form my traction engine wheels. See photos. 
I am sure Eddy will remember the ELF who helps me in the shop sometimes. He will be 6 next birthday so I have started his  :gift present. A vertical boilered single oscillator.Geoff
Title: Re: Totnes Castle
Post by: R.G.Y. on February 06, 2013, 05:06:34 AM
No work on the boats I'm afraid :picknose But I have been in the shop,, jobs for the boss. :kiss1 I did manage a little bit of play.  :offtopic :hijack  See below the grandson's Birthday pressent still needs burner, box and tools. Geoff
Title: Re: Totnes Castle
Post by: R.G.Y. on February 12, 2013, 09:20:36 PM
To many projects at the moment, but I am making 4mm + 1mm aluminium angle for the wheels. As i said before I may change from Totnes to Kingswear Castle with the boat now in the River Dart. As I have a friend on the steam railway who have the care of the boat. Photos of the production line aluminium angle, starting with an old TV areal or shelving . The circle bent between fingers and thumb.Geoff
Title: Re: Totnes Castle
Post by: derekwarner_decoy on February 12, 2013, 10:17:12 PM
Hi PD's........ :whistle ....RGY...do you intend to flame solder  :hammer the aluminium angle components together? 

...over the past 35 years I have attempted such black art of flame soldering this alloy  :c002 without any great success.......

The first joint always seems OK....then the next fails through oxidation or lack of cleaninless...even though it was pre cleaned & pre fluxed...& just waiting for the flame  :41

We would be most interested in your aluminium soldering process.......... Derek  :beer

 
Title: Re: Totnes Castle
Post by: R.G.Y. on February 13, 2013, 08:13:53 PM
NO NO Derek you should know me better than that. Far to expensive unless I can get something cheep its not for me. My plan is to use rivets made  :hammer :hammer by my self from reclaimed copper wire. Building a wheel this way will be a challenge  :picknose :picknose I don't know if I can manage it. Perhaps  :thinking I should wait until I finish before I post any thing. Geoff
Title: Re: Totnes Castle
Post by: Eddy Matthews on February 13, 2013, 08:35:06 PM
Hi Geoff,

Please do not wait until your finished before you post something!

I always find it fascinating to see how others do things, and the best way to learn is from your mistakes. Yes we've ALL made them! So waiting until you've finished removes the mistakes, which means we can't get the most from your endeavours....

I hope you know that whilst there may be a small amount of micky taking, the Paddleducks members do like to see things "warts and all", that's how we learn! I know you've got broad shoulders, so take the plunge and show us - If (and it's a BIG if, as I don't expect it to happen), someone wants to be nasty about your attempts, I will personally jump on them from a great height!

Regards
Eddy
Title: Re: Totnes Castle
Post by: derekwarner_decoy on February 13, 2013, 08:37:26 PM
OK PD's ...... :whistle ...I don't know what RGY is on about here  .....
But it is always good to ask & keep him in 'cheque & humour' but :shhh....aluminium disks + copper rivets = an electrical current when immersed in salty water...... :shoot
They will fall apart after 36 seconds or 28.5 RPM which ever occurs first...... :darn

Was just the other night I saw a posting on another WEB site from that person  :hammer :hammer :hammer [called Hammer] & offering images of his model sailing vessels.........
All too much for me .....goodnight :beer ....Derek
Title: Re: Totnes Castle
Post by: Harold H. Duncan on February 13, 2013, 08:37:46 PM
Well said Eddy.
Much better to see all Geoff, then everyone learns, and understanding clearer
cheers
kiwi
Title: Re: Totnes Castle
Post by: R.G.Y. on February 14, 2013, 09:06:48 AM
Right Eddy & kiwi, i HAVE MADE A BIG MISTAKE. :c002More later first I need to answer my friend Derek. Thank you for letting me know about dissimilar metals in salt water. More of that another day typing with one finger today. I will over come this by covering the joint in tomato sauce. Unfortunately that is not T.S. in photo. As for that Hammer I know him quite well. just a  pommy poser.
Now the big mistake, pride comes before a fall. I posted on the Duke thread, I have been a carpenter for over 50 years & still have all my fingers. Well using the safest machine in my shop ( the linisher) the wood slipped and i caught two fingers between the belt and fence. SHMBO has locked the shop door and I am band.Geoff
Title: Re: Totnes Castle
Post by: Eddy Matthews on February 14, 2013, 09:26:43 AM
oooh nasty Geoff! :(

Hope it all heals up quickly!

My daftest mistake was drilling through the side of a hull to take the paddleshaft - Yep, my fingers were right where the drill bit emerged! I never realised a 2mm hole could bleed so much!!

Regards
Eddy
Title: Re: Totnes Castle
Post by: derekwarner_decoy on February 14, 2013, 04:12:06 PM
Goodness PDs....I felt a sharp twinge the other morning.....our feelings go out to you RGY....I must agree with your SHMBO  :41...stay out of the shed for a few days

Sit back & have a  :vacation & be waited on day & night with  :coffee ....just think of all the hours you can spend on marine WEB sites..... :breakcomp ......keep us posted on your progress ....Derek :beer
Title: Re: Totnes Castle
Post by: Harold H. Duncan on February 14, 2013, 10:19:15 PM
ouch,
Have a well earned rest for a wee bit   :oops
well that should be it for another 50 years,
take care
kiwi
Title: Re: Totnes Castle
Post by: Spankbucket on February 15, 2013, 07:35:57 PM
O U C H !

I once saw someone injured by a spindle moulder and my inherent fear of powered machines was re-confirmed!!

Hope it heals OK and Soon...All the best.

Cheers...Bernie
Title: Re: Totnes Castle
Post by: R.G.Y. on February 16, 2013, 04:10:17 AM
Thanks for your best wishes, every cloud has a silver lining I don't have to do the washing up now.  Back to the effect of sea water on dissimilar metals.I once had a boat ( sold when I had my heart attack). A 10meter princess Twin diesels  cruising speed 25 knots. One winters day I was going from Torquay to Dartmouth for fuel, When an engine alarm sounded. Lifting the hatch shock horror engine bay half full of water. ( good job they where diesels) . An anode had been missed under the heat exchanger and a 3" hole was pumping water in faster then the bilge pumps could pump it out. With the offending engine stopped the pumps got the upper hand and I didn't have to swim. So I did know about this problem DEREK. Here is a picture of the good old days, when I had hair. GEOFF 
Title: Re: Totnes Castle
Post by: Spankbucket on February 16, 2013, 07:52:51 PM
Oh the pleasures of youth!!!
Title: Re: Totnes Castle
Post by: R.G.Y. on February 23, 2013, 06:58:14 AM
Still going to the hostpital, every day this week, but now I don't have to attend until Tuesday. So getting better. Geoff
Title: Re: Totnes Castle
Post by: R.G.Y. on March 01, 2013, 04:27:52 AM
Here is the box for the engine, which caused all the trouble. A ring for the paddle wheel riveted together, it is also epoxy ed, don't want it coming apart in salt water. :hehe Geoff
Title: Re: Totnes Castle
Post by: R.G.Y. on October 31, 2017, 03:17:47 AM
1st of March 2013, the last post. How time flies when enjoying yourself. Totnes Castle on the back burner all that time. While I made another engine for grandson 2, a topsail schooner and a traction engine almost complete.
So thoughts have returned to Totnes Castle. As the new club lake is very restricted, water lilies & tree roots, a big model is unsuitable. So now hope to get her down to 32" long. The engine will be a tight fit, but a new boiler will be required. More soon.   
Title: Re: Totnes Castle
Post by: R.G.Y. on November 02, 2017, 10:33:28 PM
 Anyone who has see my builds will know I don't work from a plan in the normal way. I use the board & model to draw on.   Prepared the slipway. Scraped off all the glue that dripped from the last construction, and painted over the old markings.  Decided on a scale of 10mm = 1ft, almost the same as 3/8" but much less complicated to work out. Marked out the position of the frames, lofting frames next.   
Title: Re: Totnes Castle
Post by: derekwarner_decoy on November 03, 2017, 08:35:33 AM
Yes RGY...we have seen this building board before  :hammer ......

Must agree that those Romans  :gathering had a good idea in the Metric system 

Looking forward to your new build....

Derek.....:beer
Title: Re: Totnes Castle
Post by: R.G.Y. on November 04, 2017, 02:14:48 AM
Progress quicker on Totnes Castle again after the long weight. Frames lofted & marked on insulation foam. laid the keel with stem & rudder post. Formed the box for the steam plant, this is to scale. Unfortunately the boiler I made for the original idea will not fit. (Photo 3) I will have to make a new one 4.5+4.5.  Looked in the scrap box found bearings & a selection of gears. The reason for keeping the engine room to scale. I hope to fit out the saloons, hiding the radio under the stairs. We shall see. 
Title: Re: Totnes Castle
Post by: R.G.Y. on November 07, 2017, 08:26:43 PM
I almost had to abandon Totnes castle again, having dropped Glen Usk (my avatar) down the cellar steps. A lot of damage to repair, however I can get both models on the bench. So can take it in turns. Started to form the hull, my method can be seen in photo. Cut out 2 patterns for each station, remove all but one of the silver backing. Glue together & cut to width between stations. Using the keel & the temporary strip on top to keep inline. The remaining silver goes on the station. I have removed some of the centre to hell remove foam after hull completed.   
Title: Re: Totnes Castle
Post by: DamienG on November 07, 2017, 08:42:16 PM
Sorry to hear of the damage  :sorry I feel your pain :darn :darn :darn
Title: Re: Totnes Castle
Post by: R.G.Y. on November 08, 2017, 02:59:56 AM
T.C. hull ready for shaping. Experimented with melting solder on tin on foam, no problems the foam didn't burn or melt. So I am going to try to make the hull of tin plate.
G.U. hull & boiler repaired just a bit of paint & all the those deck fittings now. Thanks for the sympathy, Damien.
Title: Re: Totnes Castle
Post by: R.G.Y. on November 10, 2017, 01:32:03 AM
Cut off most of the excess foam with a knife. Then into the garden, standing up wind, removed the rest with a blacksmith's rasp. total time about 5 minuets. Started on the deck, making my own ply, consisting of 1/16" balsa with hard wood veneer on the bottom & deck planks on the top.
Title: Re: Totnes Castle
Post by: R.G.Y. on November 11, 2017, 03:39:43 AM
Ply for the deck veneer on both sides now. I am hoping this will set the shear on the model without fixing. It will be removable as with steam plenty of room & quick access is required.
the marks on the foam are the run of the plates.
Title: Re: Totnes Castle
Post by: Spankbucket on November 11, 2017, 08:02:50 PM
A mere bagatelle??!!
Title: Re: Totnes Castle
Post by: R.G.Y. on November 14, 2017, 09:29:22 PM
Just a mere bagatelle. Well spotted a Christmas present for the grand kids. It may get them off Iphones computers for a little. 
 Drawn the plans on the sub deck, no problems there. Started the plating always work from the stern, unfortunately the most difficult part. But if I can manage here should be no problems with the rest. Cleaned off the tin with brake cleaner, before & after shown.
Work will be delayed a little as I have my nurses uniform on again.  My wife has just had her 5th opp in 4 years, if I can look after her half as god as she looks after me I will be doing ok.
Title: Re: Totnes Castle
Post by: Spankbucket on November 15, 2017, 07:31:27 PM
I had a green one as a kid...have you repainted yours? (the bagatelle that is)?

Hope your wife recovers full health as soon as possible.
Title: Re: Totnes Castle
Post by: R.G.Y. on November 15, 2017, 08:37:12 PM
My brother- in law had a green bagatelle, must have been a popular colour. No this one is all my work, yellow was all the paint I had.
Title: Re: Totnes Castle
Post by: derekwarner_decoy on November 15, 2017, 11:07:52 PM
Yes of course RGY....our best health wishes to your good wife...... :bravo

[she must be a good woman to put up with you for all of these years  :shhh]

Derek
Title: Re: Totnes Castle
Post by: R.G.Y. on November 16, 2017, 04:14:49 AM
Thank you both, just camera into look at her replacement knee. Which has gone wrong. The patient slept most of yesterday, so managed a little play.
Cut and joined 3 plates, beet to shape on the padding on my stool. Cleaned the edges with sand paper & steel wool. Tinned where they join, big soldering iron is ideal. Seeing as I may have success I will now fit edging around the top to strengthen the edge of the tin. 
The reason for tin plate, I have a plan of the Duchess of Fife specifying this method. I was afraid to try before now. 
Title: Re: Totnes Castle
Post by: R.G.Y. on November 21, 2017, 01:21:57 AM
Over the weekend I had been thinking maybe it would be easer to epoxy the plates together. Having almost finished the 2 bottom strakes I will continue soldering. Finding it easer with each plate, as I learn, little tricks. Cleaning the plates with a sanding drum (dermal), keep the plate flat on the bench. Otherwise the plate will cruel up and destroy the sand paper. Don't put to much solder on the iron, or I get lumps of solder as it runs down. I am now holding the plates in place with masking tape. That is working well. Two strakes are taking almost half a can, as there are 12 strakes I will cut up 2 more cans.
Title: Re: Totnes Castle
Post by: R.G.Y. on December 05, 2017, 02:06:27 AM
Plating almost, well finished one side, just three more on the other. Drilling the portholes with a cone drill. Holding with grips don't want to cut my fingers. Sized to fit brass tube, (chromed will skim off) That will be the surrounds, fitted after finished painting the hull.
Title: Re: Totnes Castle
Post by: DamienG on December 05, 2017, 11:39:11 AM
 :great :great
Title: Re: Totnes Castle
Post by: R.G.Y. on December 05, 2017, 10:58:07 PM
Thanks Damien. Soldering almost finished. I have used two different melting point solders, I found that very useful. Tip don't keep you legs under the solder point, OW!
The foam mould removed along with the wooden frame. Will be replacing the frame around the deck level, and the two bulkheads each side of the engine room. Bulkheads will be recut 15mm deeper, to allow for the extra depth to accommodate the different boiler. This will be cut to the mark, keeping the shorter section, the stick is on the shaft line.  Need to clean up the outside and stop the leaks, Yes there are a few, but then to few to mention.
Title: Re: Totnes Castle
Post by: R.G.Y. on December 12, 2017, 02:24:36 AM
The Hull plating finished except for a few leaks. When they are sorted, I will be giving T.C. another rest. I have to repair my lathe, I will then be concentrating on competing my traction engine.   
Title: Re: Totnes Castle
Post by: R.G.Y. on February 14, 2018, 10:23:32 PM
Bearings fitted in to wooden blocks in to sides of hull. Bedded in silicone with stainless steel plate bolted over keeping them in. Boiler tube cut fire tube assembled not soldered. As I have to test the burner in such a short tube before the bend need to see if it stays alight, or burn at the top of funnel.
Title: Re: Totnes Castle
Post by: R.G.Y. on February 20, 2018, 08:05:06 AM
In the last post are shown the gears picked from my scrap box. These are for the engine to shaft drive, need to be about 3 to 1. will see which fit best. The engine built for another model is a tight fit, so will make a smaller one.
The fire tube complete, fitted in tube. Remainder of tube cut and flattened for the end caps.
Title: Re: Totnes Castle
Post by: R.G.Y. on April 17, 2018, 07:04:03 PM
The end plates made in the normal way lots of annealing, tapping & fitting. I do use wood for the former as I don't have a large enough piece of steel. In the photo I have turned upside down to finish, care has to be taken when using wood. Why if the copper digs in cant get it off. yes voice of experience.
Almost finished boiler. Stainless plate covers old soldering pad on the front end. The rest covered in wood. The external stays long enough at the back to bolt to the bulkhead, fix it to hull. Tested to 60psi safety valve set 25psi. just clean up & fit brass straps. 
Title: Re: Totnes Castle
Post by: DamienG on April 17, 2018, 07:28:38 PM
Looking good.  :clap :clap :clap
Title: Re: Totnes Castle
Post by: R.G.Y. on April 18, 2018, 12:46:24 AM
The boiler now finished so back here. It just fits had to cut 3/16" off each side of the deck surround to get it in plenty of room when in.  The engine I intended to use will not fit however. So will be making a smaller version, or a completely new design. depending what metal I have in stock.   With the deck in place another tight fit. The safety valve will stay at this angle. But  the connector angled,  to bring the funnel central & upright with a slight rake aft.  If that makes sense.
Title: Re: Totnes Castle
Post by: R.G.Y. on May 03, 2018, 06:55:52 PM
First off a plan showing both elevations, I had cut off the external in the original post.  This to show the funnel. 
Funnel made from an old hospital walking stick. The aluminium at 1/8th thick, so I turned it down to 1/16th, leaving the rings. Fixed to the boiler at vertical with the correct rake astern.  The photos don't give that impression. But it is all correct, honest.
Title: Re: Totnes Castle
Post by: derekwarner_decoy on May 03, 2018, 08:06:03 PM
Truly an appropriate use of a walking stick RGY......does the user have a replacement?......or did the user not need such an implement anymore :a102

The funnel rake angle looks just right  :goodnews

Derek
Title: Re: Totnes Castle
Post by: R.G.Y. on May 04, 2018, 06:13:35 AM
Good to hear from you Derek. We ran a rest home for 12 years, so not needed any more. As I changed it to two houses & three flats. We live in the ground floor flat, with basement, my work shop & all the useful rubbish left over.
Title: Re: Totnes Castle
Post by: R.G.Y. on May 04, 2018, 06:16:34 AM
The unfortunate thing is I have to use a stick to walk any distance. The good thing I am still here.  :laugh:
Title: Re: Totnes Castle
Post by: Hankwilliams on May 04, 2018, 07:22:35 AM
Very impressive! Hull is made of aluminium?
Title: Re: Totnes Castle
Post by: R.G.Y. on May 04, 2018, 09:24:44 PM
Sorry Hank its tin plate, soldered  Not aluminium, to expensive, I pay for very little. Not tight but very carful.
Title: Re: Totnes Castle
Post by: R.G.Y. on May 06, 2018, 02:59:13 AM
Started on the boiler room roof. Cardboard patterns, with skylight & access hatch drawn in. The tinplate marked out, rivets punched, folded & soldered on the corners.
Title: Re: Totnes Castle
Post by: R.G.Y. on May 12, 2018, 07:17:29 PM
Slow progress I am afraid, other things to do. Have soldered up the engine room roof. Need to fix angle along the bottom to keep it straight. Found brass angle in my stock, but it will have to be milled smaller & thinner.  Then the safety valve extension.
Title: Re: Totnes Castle
Post by: DamienG on May 12, 2018, 07:57:01 PM
 :clap :clap :clap :clap
Title: Re: Totnes Castle
Post by: R.G.Y. on May 24, 2018, 06:55:00 PM
the metal part of the boiler roof finished & painted (after photo). Skylight & hatch will be made open to get air to burner.
Boiler complete just the pipe work to do when the engine installed. No clack feed as will remove safety valve to fill, & turn the boat over to empty, although there is a valve on the sight glass. Sorry about the shadow across the makers plate, which is level although doesn't look like it in photo.
Title: Re: Totnes Castle
Post by: R.G.Y. on May 30, 2018, 07:42:40 AM
Sketched out the engine, on a scrap of paper. the main frame 1"+ 1/8" two of joined by two 3/8" square. The square drilled through the centres (steam passages). Cylinders 5/8 hexagon, turned off centre to leave one flat. Also 1/8" left at each end to take six 10 BM studs for the end caps. The throttle - reverse mounted upright above to one side. Size over all 3"+ 3" The drawing shows most but questions welcome. 
I have altered this from previous engines I have made. Split the standard so I can increase the size of the bearings. This was a weak point before, didn't wear well.
Title: Re: Totnes Castle
Post by: DamienG on May 30, 2018, 02:09:55 PM
 :clap :clap :clap
Title: Re: Totnes Castle
Post by: R.G.Y. on June 08, 2018, 07:41:07 AM
Started the engine pics later. Also started on paddle wheels, they have been on me mind for some time. I have made wheels of brass & aluminium in the past. Cut from sheet this is a waste & very boreing. (deliberate spelling ) Found the answer in my stores. A roll of something that looks like brass, 3/16 + 1/16th but it is hard & like a spring. It also melts very near to silver solder temperature, So soft solder now. The pics should explain my hope for method. Wooden formers are the key. one for inner ring another for outer. Joining the strip around then drilling holes at the spokes, pin in first hole to stop movement wile drilling rest. So far so good, we will see.
Title: Re: Totnes Castle
Post by: derekwarner_decoy on June 08, 2018, 10:08:14 AM
Always watching from afar RGY :shhh........[am in Adelaide again for a month]

Phosphor Bronze is commonly reshaped from billet into flat bar by initially hot rolling, then as the thickness reduces by cold rolling to sheet which is then sheared into width [again by the rolling process]

This cold rolling produces the toughness, together with the layered structure removes the shear and substitutes or provides the springiness

With a melting point of ~~905.... to ~~954 degrees C fits your melting experiment and the characteristics you mention

[Spring manufacturers use this material for their feed stock]

Should be a strong structure [with little flex] when complete :beer ....Derek
Title: Re: Totnes Castle
Post by: R.G.Y. on June 09, 2018, 07:05:28 AM
Always good to hear from you Derek my friend. Thank you for the information now I know. The first side of the wheel ready  for soldering. This inside wheel I will be making flat well almost. The outer will be dished to stop lateral movement. Marking the spokes where they need to bend. ( red marks on board .) Bending in vice & by hand, aligning to pattern.
Title: Re: Totnes Castle
Post by: derekwarner_decoy on June 09, 2018, 10:40:03 AM
Just trying to visuilise RGY....are the jaws on your lathe 3 jaw chuck small enough to grip the OD of the hub as shown?.....if they were it would make clean up of the assumed 1/4" wheel hub bore after soldering so much easier

With the set/offset of pins, I am assuming this will be for the inner hub wheel side closest to the hull allowing for the hull pedestal bearing

Having said this, we have seen both variations on the them with the dished hub outboard shortening the paddleshaft :whistle

Always watching.....Derek  :coffee

PS....I didn't get to post on May the 6th, however am a little concerned with the boiler burner getting sufficient oxygen  :41
Title: Re: Totnes Castle
Post by: R.G.Y. on June 09, 2018, 04:46:15 PM
Donít worry about air to burner Derek. The sky light will be open so will the entrance hatch, air will be able to pass over top of baulkheads from the saloon stairs. I will be cleaning the wheels be hand, a lot safer.
Enjoy Adelaide.   :)
Title: Re: Totnes Castle
Post by: R.G.Y. on June 12, 2018, 06:57:37 PM
May be someone may want to make paddles using this method. If you do & you have a lathe should be no problems. First turn wooden blanks & mark centre & number of spokes required. Rap strip brass around the former cut & join to a tight fit. it is important as this will keep them the same size. Align the drill accurately to the spokes. Drill one & pin it with a short piece of spoke material, so the strip doesn't move wile drilling rest. The centre hub was divided in the lathe.
On assemble three spokes in my case immediately aligned the rings, that is if the holes are right. If not fettling is the order of the day. I soft soldered mine as the structure is inherently strong. Note soldered away from the marks on blanks, to preserve them.   
The dishing can be seen on the finished upright wheel. This was achieved by a thick washer under the hub, & clamping the outer ring down on to the former. I did try bending the spokes before fitting. But had trouble as the rings didn't align automatically. Clean up by hand. Only three more to make.
Title: Re: Totnes Castle
Post by: DamienG on June 13, 2018, 10:59:21 AM
Great work!  :great :clap :great :clap :respect :respect
Title: Re: Totnes Castle
Post by: R.G.Y. on June 13, 2018, 06:38:39 PM
Having used spring bronze, (Thanks Derek) I wish now I had used brass & silver soldered the joints. I will have to epoxy the floats in place now. Don't want them to melt the rest.
Can't say I altered the plan because there isn't one. But I dished the inner wheel more than the outer in the end.
Title: Re: Totnes Castle
Post by: derekwarner_decoy on June 13, 2018, 08:46:34 PM
Always more than one way to skin the cat :shhh...but using epoxy as a composite build sequence sounds a great idea RGY   :hammer .....will you use wooden floats?.... Derek
Title: Re: Totnes Castle
Post by: R.G.Y. on June 14, 2018, 04:12:50 AM
The original had iron floats, non feathering. So tin plate as I have some left from the hull. Coming on Derek.
I have done a little to the engine. Post later, if I have time, when I come back from pub.
Title: Re: Totnes Castle
Post by: R.G.Y. on June 14, 2018, 07:09:01 PM
Started work on the engine. Drilled & turned the cylinders & end caps off centre. Simply done by packing one jaw of the chuck. The reason so I can mill down the port face to increase the width. (arrow & black mark) Also reducing the amount of metal, reducing start up condensation. 
Title: Re: Totnes Castle
Post by: R.G.Y. on June 16, 2018, 07:00:10 PM
  Back to the wheels.The floats will be fitted so. the tabs will give the epoxy plenty to grip.
Title: Re: Totnes Castle
Post by: R.G.Y. on June 22, 2018, 01:04:15 AM
Laid out as original plan. But original Standard sadly distorted when silver soldering together I got it to hot. A change of plan I now intend have two output gears one at 3to1 the other at 5to1. Three to one is my normal preference. But the 12 floats (paddles) are very close together so will start with 5to1. If this is slow can use 3to1 without much trouble.
I have remade the standard,  Second attempt soldered the bar then machined it after, this stopped any distortion. Stainless pivot bar fitted, will cut out inner section later. Large hole for removable crank bearing.  Just the exit holes to the ports to drill when the crank it finished & blank off the 4 ports at entry end.
Title: Re: Totnes Castle
Post by: R.G.Y. on June 28, 2018, 12:53:04 AM
A little more done on the engine. Steam ports & pivot holes drilled in cylinders. Oil light bronze bearing ready to fixed. Piston rods ready I will be silver soldering piston blanks in place. Then with the rod in chuck turn the blanks to fit. Chrome crank shaft, pin & web in the picture ready for cutting. The strip of ali with four holes will mark the steam ports in the frame. when the crank is fitted. The small gears fit between the bearing & crank web. As I said before this will give the chance to change ratios if the low is to low. 
Title: Re: Totnes Castle
Post by: DamienG on June 28, 2018, 09:19:58 AM
 :bravo :clap :bravo :clap :bravo :clap
Title: Re: Totnes Castle
Post by: Delaunay on June 28, 2018, 03:45:03 PM
 :) Hello !
Attractive machine design for those who do not always find the desired flow of material.   :no1b
Title: Re: Totnes Castle
Post by: R.G.Y. on June 29, 2018, 02:30:49 AM
Delaunay, right I use what I have & what I can acquire for next to nothing. Here is the latest.
  Super glued the blanks for the crank webs together, marked & drilled the holes. Unfortunately came apart braking through large hole. Had to bolt back to finish the shaping. Soldered the gear & pin to the web, used ali stub to centre gear. solder don't stick to aluminium of course.
Marked the steam ports on the frame, using gauge. Will drill later in the mill, a hat pin will find centres.
Bearing pressed into the frame, oil hole drilled in. The final layout of the engine can now be seen. Well one half of it.
A lot of fettling & polishing when construction completed.
Title: Re: Totnes Castle
Post by: R.G.Y. on June 30, 2018, 07:29:42 PM
Latest, wheels finished, steam ports drilled in engine frame. grating over rudder arm. The grating needs toned down.
Title: Re: Totnes Castle
Post by: R.G.Y. on July 05, 2018, 12:01:07 AM
 
Had a bit of a disaster with the piston rods silver soldered to the pistons. when tuning final fit the rods snapped. I hah upset the temper with the heat. so had to thread and make new rods.
Drilled the gland nuts through a solid core down the cylinder. Done for better accurse I hope.  Hold the nut other wise it will undo.
The engine parts made, will put it back in the mill to remove excess metal on the frame. then polish it & lap the port faces. The cranks set at 90 degree for smother running, 4 strokes per rev. 180 degree 2 strokes per rev may deliver more power.
It is shown at the angle it will be installed in the boat. Making a wooden frame to hold it. The regulator-reverser will be mounted remotely. Or it may not who knows. Servo control mounted under stair in forward saloon. Yes as I said at the start the saloons will be fitted toilets and all.
Title: Re: Totnes Castle
Post by: R.G.Y. on July 06, 2018, 02:27:34 AM
Fitted a hub to the shaft gear. Notice I am using counter sunk slotted screws. This is because I bought the by mistake at a show. So they will be used. Should have worn my glasses. A rough mock up of the engine room. The engine will not be a such a steep angle. But I do have to find room for a separator, under or forward of the engine. It will have to be a special shape.
Title: Re: Totnes Castle
Post by: DamienG on July 06, 2018, 12:05:19 PM
 :clap :clap
Title: Re: Totnes Castle
Post by: R.G.Y. on July 07, 2018, 02:54:05 AM
Made a bracket for the bottom of engine. The two holding screws block the holes drilled for the ports, the other two will have studs. The  bracket at the other end will be fitted by trial & error. I had a fright thought the shaft gear was going through the deck. but as seen just got away with it. Fitted the pipes towards the regulator - reverser. Those 10BA screw head look big in the photo! I will have to cut and fit bends as they foul the gas tank as they are. No one has asked how the cylinders will be kept against the frame. I have several plans see which is best, soon.
Title: Re: Totnes Castle
Post by: Delaunay on July 07, 2018, 03:51:55 PM
 :bravo :clap
 :
the cylinders, how do you like it, a spring-loaded flange?
Title: Re: Totnes Castle
Post by: Hankwilliams on July 10, 2018, 06:27:47 AM
looks very well and of great promise!
Title: Re: Totnes Castle
Post by: R.G.Y. on July 16, 2018, 07:40:03 PM
Keyed one web & gear to the shaft. Thought I would drill into the joint but the drill kept drifting off the chrome. So drilled as close as I could each side. Then diamond file to make it into a slot. cut a wedge & hammered it in. Probably fix other side with epoxy on final assemble.
Title: Re: Totnes Castle
Post by: DamienG on July 16, 2018, 10:51:12 PM
 :clap :clap :clap :clap :clap
Title: Re: Totnes Castle
Post by: R.G.Y. on July 18, 2018, 06:54:07 AM
I don't have a rotary table for the mill. So had to improvise cutting the curve in the regulator - reverser. I do have a vice that swivels. With a pointer in the chuck  & a brass bar between the jaws I found the centre of vice pivot. Then the work was super glued to the bar, to the centre. Moving the bed forward the required distance. the job was easy. 
The 2 parts of regulator b parted off 1" brass rod. Learnt today, fix card around rod between tool and steady, this stopped the chips jamming the steady. 
Drilled the back plate & silver soldered the tubes in. Had to drill back down one where the solder got in. Even with carbon on the tube & mean with the solder.
Title: Re: Totnes Castle
Post by: R.G.Y. on July 21, 2018, 05:54:10 AM
Engine almost complete. Just the springs & fittings for holding the faces together. On the shaft can be seen the spacers that rest against the bearings in the hull keeping the wheels & gear in place. The flats on the shaft to stop grub screws tuning are all inline. I can see the gear is correct line up the wheel will also be right. 
Title: Re: Totnes Castle
Post by: DamienG on July 21, 2018, 04:47:38 PM
 :bravo :clap :bravo :clap
Title: Re: Totnes Castle
Post by: R.G.Y. on July 27, 2018, 02:52:51 AM
Continuing with the separator. For anyone who is not familiar with a separator. The feed tube goes in to the top about 3/8" & the exit tube about a 1/4". So the oil & water can not turn quick enough & falls to the bottom. The empty tube touches the bottom & is normally shut off. When opened & exit shut off, steam will empty contents.
The photo on window board, also shows my granddaughters steam engine, made for me. 
Title: Re: Totnes Castle
Post by: R.G.Y. on July 27, 2018, 02:55:33 AM
I had forgotten to show the arrangement for holding the cylinders to the port faces.
Title: Re: Totnes Castle
Post by: R.G.Y. on August 06, 2018, 07:55:52 AM
I have tried to run the engine on air, but failed. I soon found the problem. I had designed the ports to be in from the end of the cylinder, to give better cover. I knew I would need a slot cut in the cylinder wall, to get steam past the piston. I had completely forgotten to do this. The photo shows the slot cut in this end of cylinder now.  The photo is a close up showing all the scratches. The rough looking wall of cylinder are not that bad. they are a good thing as they will hold oil preventing wear.   Well that is the theory.
Title: Re: Totnes Castle
Post by: Paddlemex on March 12, 2019, 12:13:06 PM

I just went through the whole thread and - wow- what a hull. That work is really art.

I also looked very closely at your engine, the #1, and maybe my tug build may be steam after all. I already started to make some sketches.

Has she seen water already?

Jurgen
Title: Re: Totnes Castle
Post by: R.G.Y. on March 13, 2019, 01:45:01 AM
Juergen, good to hear from you. As I said I have been repairing my other boats. So only been in test tank. My club starts sailing Easter. You may like to read my Duke of Devonshire build here. There is a video of one of my engines in steam there.
Title: Re: Totnes Castle
Post by: Paddlemex on March 16, 2019, 03:48:29 AM

I am reading.
Lots of pages, 45.
Is just my server or are several pictures lost? There is the thumbnail, but when you click on it it becomes a black X.
Title: Re: Totnes Castle
Post by: R.G.Y. on March 16, 2019, 06:05:50 AM
Jurgen, hope you find some ideas. I donít know about photos disappearing. If there are special ones you would like to see. Post page number & date, I will see if I can help. Geoff