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Author Topic: Totnes Castle  (Read 14199 times)

Offline R.G.Y.

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Re: Totnes Castle
« Reply #90 on: June 13, 2018, 06:38:39 PM »
Having used spring bronze, (Thanks Derek) I wish now I had used brass & silver soldered the joints. I will have to epoxy the floats in place now. Don't want them to melt the rest.
Can't say I altered the plan because there isn't one. But I dished the inner wheel more than the outer in the end.
G.Y.

Offline derekwarner_decoy

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Re: Totnes Castle
« Reply #91 on: June 13, 2018, 08:46:34 PM »
Always more than one way to skin the cat :shhh...but using epoxy as a composite build sequence sounds a great idea RGY   :hammer .....will you use wooden floats?.... Derek
Derek Warner

Honorary Secretary [Retired]
Illawarra Live Steamers Co-op
Australia
www.ils.org.au

Offline R.G.Y.

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Re: Totnes Castle
« Reply #92 on: June 14, 2018, 04:12:50 AM »
The original had iron floats, non feathering. So tin plate as I have some left from the hull. Coming on Derek.
I have done a little to the engine. Post later, if I have time, when I come back from pub.
G.Y.

Offline R.G.Y.

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Re: Totnes Castle
« Reply #93 on: June 14, 2018, 07:09:01 PM »
Started work on the engine. Drilled & turned the cylinders & end caps off centre. Simply done by packing one jaw of the chuck. The reason so I can mill down the port face to increase the width. (arrow & black mark) Also reducing the amount of metal, reducing start up condensation. 
G.Y.

Offline R.G.Y.

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Re: Totnes Castle
« Reply #94 on: June 16, 2018, 07:00:10 PM »
  Back to the wheels.The floats will be fitted so. the tabs will give the epoxy plenty to grip.
« Last Edit: June 16, 2018, 07:03:30 PM by R.G.Y. »
G.Y.

Offline R.G.Y.

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Re: Totnes Castle
« Reply #95 on: June 22, 2018, 01:04:15 AM »
Laid out as original plan. But original Standard sadly distorted when silver soldering together I got it to hot. A change of plan I now intend have two output gears one at 3to1 the other at 5to1. Three to one is my normal preference. But the 12 floats (paddles) are very close together so will start with 5to1. If this is slow can use 3to1 without much trouble.
I have remade the standard,  Second attempt soldered the bar then machined it after, this stopped any distortion. Stainless pivot bar fitted, will cut out inner section later. Large hole for removable crank bearing.  Just the exit holes to the ports to drill when the crank it finished & blank off the 4 ports at entry end.
G.Y.

Offline R.G.Y.

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Re: Totnes Castle
« Reply #96 on: June 28, 2018, 12:53:04 AM »
A little more done on the engine. Steam ports & pivot holes drilled in cylinders. Oil light bronze bearing ready to fixed. Piston rods ready I will be silver soldering piston blanks in place. Then with the rod in chuck turn the blanks to fit. Chrome crank shaft, pin & web in the picture ready for cutting. The strip of ali with four holes will mark the steam ports in the frame. when the crank is fitted. The small gears fit between the bearing & crank web. As I said before this will give the chance to change ratios if the low is to low. 
G.Y.

Offline DamienG

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Re: Totnes Castle
« Reply #97 on: June 28, 2018, 09:19:58 AM »
 :bravo :clap :bravo :clap :bravo :clap

Offline Delaunay

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Re: Totnes Castle
« Reply #98 on: June 28, 2018, 03:45:03 PM »
 :) Hello !
Attractive machine design for those who do not always find the desired flow of material.   :no1b

Offline R.G.Y.

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Re: Totnes Castle
« Reply #99 on: June 29, 2018, 02:30:49 AM »
Delaunay, right I use what I have & what I can acquire for next to nothing. Here is the latest.
  Super glued the blanks for the crank webs together, marked & drilled the holes. Unfortunately came apart braking through large hole. Had to bolt back to finish the shaping. Soldered the gear & pin to the web, used ali stub to centre gear. solder don't stick to aluminium of course.
Marked the steam ports on the frame, using gauge. Will drill later in the mill, a hat pin will find centres.
Bearing pressed into the frame, oil hole drilled in. The final layout of the engine can now be seen. Well one half of it.
A lot of fettling & polishing when construction completed.
G.Y.

Offline R.G.Y.

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Re: Totnes Castle
« Reply #100 on: June 30, 2018, 07:29:42 PM »
Latest, wheels finished, steam ports drilled in engine frame. grating over rudder arm. The grating needs toned down.
G.Y.

Offline R.G.Y.

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Re: Totnes Castle
« Reply #101 on: July 05, 2018, 12:01:07 AM »
 
Had a bit of a disaster with the piston rods silver soldered to the pistons. when tuning final fit the rods snapped. I hah upset the temper with the heat. so had to thread and make new rods.
Drilled the gland nuts through a solid core down the cylinder. Done for better accurse I hope.  Hold the nut other wise it will undo.
The engine parts made, will put it back in the mill to remove excess metal on the frame. then polish it & lap the port faces. The cranks set at 90 degree for smother running, 4 strokes per rev. 180 degree 2 strokes per rev may deliver more power.
It is shown at the angle it will be installed in the boat. Making a wooden frame to hold it. The regulator-reverser will be mounted remotely. Or it may not who knows. Servo control mounted under stair in forward saloon. Yes as I said at the start the saloons will be fitted toilets and all.
G.Y.

Offline R.G.Y.

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Re: Totnes Castle
« Reply #102 on: July 06, 2018, 02:27:34 AM »
Fitted a hub to the shaft gear. Notice I am using counter sunk slotted screws. This is because I bought the by mistake at a show. So they will be used. Should have worn my glasses. A rough mock up of the engine room. The engine will not be a such a steep angle. But I do have to find room for a separator, under or forward of the engine. It will have to be a special shape.
G.Y.

Offline DamienG

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Re: Totnes Castle
« Reply #103 on: July 06, 2018, 12:05:19 PM »
 :clap :clap

Offline R.G.Y.

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Re: Totnes Castle
« Reply #104 on: July 07, 2018, 02:54:05 AM »
Made a bracket for the bottom of engine. The two holding screws block the holes drilled for the ports, the other two will have studs. The  bracket at the other end will be fitted by trial & error. I had a fright thought the shaft gear was going through the deck. but as seen just got away with it. Fitted the pipes towards the regulator - reverser. Those 10BA screw head look big in the photo! I will have to cut and fit bends as they foul the gas tank as they are. No one has asked how the cylinders will be kept against the frame. I have several plans see which is best, soon.
G.Y.

 

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