Hi Kim,
Thats basically what I am trying...obechi framework inside the ply, and as you say, sanded to shape around the outside.
I want to run a seperate obechi belting strip round the outside edge also so will have to sand off its thickness as I forgot when marking out the sponson!
regards
Clark

A pic of the obechi framing before bottom of sponson glued on, and also tidied the edges of the obechi and checked for fit again.
Now waiting on epoxy going off and will get the other three sections done.

Hi Clark,

Also interested to see this.

I thought of constructing an interior cradle, then Kim pointed out that is how Graupner do it for the 'Glasgow' and that it could be heavy.

Then Kim suggested 'keying' the lower sponson deck into the hull to compensate for pier/sponson bumpage, which seems a good idea.

Then I saw drawings of how real steamers were done ....

All the best

Hi Sandy,
when I permanently fix the sponson bases to the hull, (after I have made all of them!)I will have "blocks" hidden under where the houses will be, to give a good glueing area, and where the sponsons narrow at the fore and aft ends, my plan is to drill through the hull & into the sponson, from the inside, then epoxy threaded rod into the hole in the sponson, so when set I can put a nut on the rod inside the hull, securing that area.
Its a bit hard to explain, but I did something similar when fixing the wooden belting strip to my Lochiel's fibreglass hull.
Thats the plan anyway....will post any progress!
cheers
Clark

Hi Clark,
I'm sure you have a plan that will work so forgive me for this suggestion but might be of interst to others that plan to make their sponsons removeable.

I have used this method on my big Talisman (albeit using heavier nuts)

I have used 'T' nuts on the sponson side with socket screws through the hull with penny washers epoxied to the inside hull side to spread the load.

http://www.modelaccessories.co.uk/m2-captive-t-nut-10pcs.html


P.s. Will be intouch shortly, almost there with your wheels

All the best & have a good Christmas.
Regards,
Kim

Hi Kim,
Thanks, all suggestions are very welcome. I have been thinking about using captive nuts ....or the threaded inserts you get in the white moulded electrical surface boxes, epoxied in place. (think they are 3.5mm)

Thats great about the wheels, Kim. I plan to get shaft /bearings done after the sponsons....I'm off work over New Year so hope to get a bit of progress & on Lochiel also.

Hope you all have a great Christmas,
Clark

I haven't read all the thread but I would have sent the hull back and asked for a good one. These things ain't cheap. You deserve the best for the money asked.
Martin

Hi Martin,
Yes you are quite correct, although in this case the problem was probably self inflicted as I had the hull in storage for quite some time in conditions that were not ideal...thats the second hull i have had to butcher/straighten out!
However i have learnt my lesson and the hull for my next build is perfect and stored away carefully on a flat surface.
all the best
Clark

Hi all,
Catching up on some work on the sponsons, as I had a break from modelling to have the cold

Anyway, sanded the outside edges back a bit with a minicraft sander, as I'm glueing a thin belting strip round the edge of the sponsons.
Epoxied 2.5mm threaded rod into sponsons for fixing through the hull with nuts/washers...the wooden glue blocks will be hidden under the houses. I think this will make the bases quite solid after its all glued & screwed up.
A pic or two...

Hi PD's
I have managed to come up with a method for making the removeable section of spring beam/belting, to facilitate shaft/paddle removal.

I carved up a plastic dry lining box, used for electrical sockets and switches, so that I have 2 sections for each sponson. first pic. Also I drilled and fitted the 3.5mm threaded inserts from this box, these will be epoxied in place for fixing the removeable section later.

2nd pic shows one of these sections in place. Will be glued & bolted in place.

3rd pic shows spring beam/sponson piece in place....the shaft for feathering gear will be fitted to the rear of this. Eventually the front ornamental "grille" of the paddle drum will be fitted to this also. Still got the outer belting facing to glue onto this piece.

Last pic showing a card mock up of paddle drum front. After shaft is fitted I will build the paddle drum, but will add the sponson houses later, as it will be easier to paint the hull without them in place. And of course all the wood will be well sealed.
cheers
Clark

It's surprising how many weird and wonderful odds and ends can be used in modelling with a bit of lateral thinking!

It's coming along very nicely Clark....

Regards
Eddy

Hi Clark, she is  looking really good! I really like the chopped up linning box idea.
The Model Steamer Club have a couple of shows lined up for this year would be great to see you and your boats at them.
Oh yaeh and there is Paddler Day ... I hope you'll be comming this year.... a wedding is only a good excusse once ....
All the best,
Kim

Hi all,
At last found some time for modelling! Since my last post I have made a few changes to the sponsons....I have done away with the removeable sections because

1. it was getting fiddley and a bit "Heath Robinson" anyway!
2. I had the shaft positions marked in the wrong place...it is actually just above belting level so the shaft will slide into place without fouling the sponsons...good result! Used 5mm stainless steel shaft with universal coupling ends as bearings.

I got a lovely set of 7 float wheels from Kim at Clyde Model Boats...haven't built them up yet but using a rim to check clearances as I build the framework for the sponson houses...this is on going at the moment. Hope to get this area done as I started it in January!

A few pics

Hi,
Kims wheels when made up do look great.  she is looking great too 

Managed to get a bit more done, outer skin of plasticard on sponson houses, around balsa and plastic formers, and a start made on the paddle drums...a few pics