Great progress Clark. How do you hold your windows material in place? Is it slotted in or glued on? Did you use the perspex on a backing that you proposed for the Locheil?

Hi Richard,

This time, on the inside of the saloon side, I glued a strip of plastruct between each window, vertically, (1.5mm x 2.5mm strips i think) so basically each window has its own "pocket" to fit into (snug fit) on the inside.
With the frame on the glazing it was then inserted into its pocket and carefully secured in place with 1.2 x 1.2mm plastruct L section glued to the vertical strips on the inside so the glazing is trapped and can't move or fall out....I hope

Maybe this will explain better...

Thanks Clark. A neat solution.

Had a trial go at the paddlebox facings yesterday. I had the idea of getting these etched in brass, but decided to give plastic a go.
Made in two layers, the inner layer with vertical supports. the three holes are for small magnets that I am using to fix the facings. Then the outer layer with horizontal slats (1x1.5mm plastruct)
With the two layers sandwiched together, they seem quite strong, so will now do the other side before detail/paint.
cheers
Clark

Excellent work Clark and an interesting idea with the use of magnets.  Look forward to seeing your efforts with the detailed paddle crest.  Any ideas how this could be done at this scale?

Thanks Robert,

Quite pleased with the facing so far, and happy that they seem sturdy enough.
I heard about someone using magnets to hold down a deck hatch, so thought I'd try them. Very small 3mm round 1.5mm deep neodym magnets. I'm hoping they work ok as I don't want visible fixings showing.
Re the crests, I'm not sure how to do them yet, I do have the pics of your excellent painting, and a few of the crest itself, but I want to see/measure/photo it myself. I found out it went to the Clydeside museum eventually (thanks Stuart!). Thats now shut but the Scottish Maritime Museum oversee some of the exhibits so hopefully I can arrange a viewing at some point. Will get in touch with them soon.
I looked at it countless times in the waiting room at Gourock pier over the years...always forgot the camera and tape measure!!

that looks great,  I made mine in 'layers' too.

Hi Mick,
Yes i remembered your Princess Elizabeth boxes/facings from your thread, I didn't have the black plasticard though, I will give them a dark primer coat first!

I've used those tiny magnets for dollshouse fittings but it never occurred to me to use them in boats!!

Great idea Clark...many thanks for that!!

Hi Clark,
Think you were right going with Plasticard ... no point in recommending Laser cutting to you as you are a whizz kidd with a scalpel!

Look forward to getting on the water soon.
Regards,
Kim

Clark,
        If you are able to take a good digital photograph of the original paddle crest then this can be sent to a cnc machine router via a jpeg file which will be able to cut it out for you. You can also send a mirror image for the other side.  We use a plastic model board which cuts easily and gives good detail.  Just an idea.

Quote from: rmcluckie on January 28, 2012, 10:11:25 AM
Clark,
        If you are able to take a good digital photograph of the original paddle crest then this can be sent to a cnc machine router via a jpeg file which will be able to cut it out for you. You can also send a mirror image for the other side.  We use a plastic model board which cuts easily and gives good detail.  Just an idea.

True, but at this scale you will probably need to re draw or loose a fair bit of resolution on the photo

If i can help just shout
Kim

I would use my Robocutter to cut this in thin styrene using a scan of the drawing from which the 'Silhouette' software will be able to trace the cut lines needed.

I have done my paddle wheel casings for my 'Presto' by this method but have still to do the crest.

I'd be happy to give it a go for you if you can send me the artwork to scan or even a jpeg you have.

As I don't know the original I could be underestimating the complexity?

Quote from: Spankbucket on January 28, 2012, 08:39:09 PM
I would use my Robocutter to cut this in thin styrene using a scan of the drawing from which the 'Silhouette' software will be able to trace the cut lines needed.

I have done my paddle wheel casings for my 'Presto' by this method but have still to do the crest.

I'd be happy to give it a go for you if you can send me the artwork to scan or even a jpeg you have.

As I don't know the original I could be underestimating the complexity?

If you have a look back - Page 2 reply # 53 there is a pic ....
Regards,
Kim