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Author Topic: Totnes Castle  (Read 24245 times)

Offline R.G.Y.

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Re: Totnes Castle
« Reply #120 on: July 26, 2020, 04:41:06 AM »
As can be seen having trouble with photos. Using materials in stock & plans in my head. The standard 10mm sq brass cut & super glued together.  Would have been easier if I had 12.5 mm. Holes drilled for crank bearing & cylinder pivot bar. Then cut to shape.
« Last Edit: July 26, 2020, 05:27:55 AM by R.G.Y. »
G.Y.

Offline R.G.Y.

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Re: Totnes Castle
« Reply #121 on: July 27, 2020, 03:12:43 AM »
Marked the ports with a simple gig. Cut the passages with Dermal tool this is where wider stock would been better. The finished engine Mk4 next to the Mk3. Still very stiff and neds a good clean up. Note the gears are gone trying belt drive to get rid of noise. Will send more of the unorthodox construction if any ones interested.
« Last Edit: July 27, 2020, 03:19:45 AM by R.G.Y. »
G.Y.

Offline Paddlemex

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Re: Totnes Castle
« Reply #122 on: July 27, 2020, 05:53:18 AM »

The more unorthodox the more welcome, Geoff.
Keep the pictures coming.

Jurgen

Offline R.G.Y.

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Re: Totnes Castle
« Reply #123 on: July 27, 2020, 07:07:38 PM »
Thanks Jurgen thought you would be interested.   Cut 4 face plates from an old door finger plate, drilled central to take pivot bar. Ready for solder, I use Rothenburger- Rolot S2,( I get it free) a slightly higher temp than silver solder, flux with tenacity. into the citric acid over night. Not SULPHURIC! 
NOW The reason for the carved out passages, with the smaller stock it was far to difficult to drill from the end. Avoiding the pivot hole, not coming out the side and hitting the far port about 44mm away. I don't know how I managed it with the larger stock. Also decided to place the entry & exit tubes between the standard arms, saving space.
The large tube is crank bearing obviously, in the pivot hole tube again, this holds it together. I can drill out later & the drill will follow.
« Last Edit: July 27, 2020, 07:12:29 PM by R.G.Y. »
G.Y.

Offline derekwarner_decoy

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Re: Totnes Castle
« Reply #124 on: July 27, 2020, 07:27:43 PM »
Still watching on my Friend.......... :nahnah....keep well and away from that Pandemic.......Derek  :beer
Derek Warner

Honorary Secretary [Retired]
Illawarra Live Steamers Co-op
Australia
www.ils.org.au

Offline R.G.Y.

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Re: Totnes Castle
« Reply #125 on: July 27, 2020, 07:34:36 PM »
Hexagon bar for the cylinders, drilled of centre by simply packing on one jaw. Cylinder & end caps done with out altering the set up. First turn the gland cap & thread, drill under size hole part way in.  Leave thickness of cap, turn in to size of cylinder bore,(10mm) part off leaving 2mm on cap. Shorten the 10mm to leave 2mm, then part off the cap. Now drill & ream cylinder part off to length. Super glue gland cap in position drill for tapping, separate(heat) tap 10BA for me. enlarge hole in cap & counter sink. 
G.Y.

Offline R.G.Y.

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Re: Totnes Castle
« Reply #126 on: July 27, 2020, 07:45:24 PM »
Great to know you are watching Derek. I know you will put me straight when I am wrong. Don't worry I have had covid 19 I was one of the luck ones just 4 days of flu like symptoms. But my wife was really ill confined to bed for 10 days. unheard of!! Doc wanted her in hospital she said no thanks. My friend next door did not survive it, caught it in Spain. We where in Milano over Christmas that's where we picked it up.   
G.Y.

Offline R.G.Y.

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Re: Totnes Castle
« Reply #127 on: July 29, 2020, 12:25:55 AM »
The reason for the offset bore in the cylinders is to gain a little more width at the crank. That was the short coming with MK1, crank bearings wore to quickly. MK2 had wider bearings, by running in to the crank web. It replaced MK1in the Duke of Devonshire. Mk3 fitted in Totnes Castle is ok but gears make an unrealistic sound. So I thought could improve with Mk4 & belt drive. On with the show
Gland nuts made a little on the large side, smallest hexagon in stock. Enlarging the hole to take the piston rod. Found 10mm aluminium rod centre drilled 2mm (rod size) pushed up to top of cylinder drill right through. In that photo the rough piece of brass used for face plates. Plates silver soldered to cylinders. Not the small pins.
« Last Edit: July 29, 2020, 12:40:01 AM by R.G.Y. »
G.Y.

Offline DamienG

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Re: Totnes Castle
« Reply #128 on: July 29, 2020, 12:05:39 PM »
Great ideas & looking great Geoff.
  :clap :clap :clap :clap :clap :clap :clap :clap

Offline R.G.Y.

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Re: Totnes Castle
« Reply #129 on: July 29, 2020, 07:24:27 PM »
Thanks Damien,
The crank & webs are straight forward enough. One is soldered on the end, the other end needs to be removable. So I cut down a hacksaw blade so it entered the hole. Used it to cut a slot for a key. Cut a grove in shaft. Hammer in a wedge made from offcut of that hacksaw blade, not cut off in photo so can be seen. Tap the end of shaft for removal. The belt drums soldered to the cranks, they are drilled through half way so the shaft bearing can be longer. I must take a photo to show that.
« Last Edit: July 29, 2020, 07:27:20 PM by R.G.Y. »
G.Y.

 

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