A Paddle tug in Oregon

[mogogear]

Thanks fellows..If it had been Orgasmic Tomato paste _ would have had it for dinner   I am resourceful on things I hate to part with money on or over engineer - Purchased condensers are usually so over built for what they are. They do not really have to with stand  pressure and I usually use a plastic syringe to suck them out - so I do not waste the money on silver soldering , good brass tube, globe valves etc. Too many things to buy to waste $100 USD on a septic tank!!!  -

Not criticizing anyone else for sure- we each have our preferences

I have done the planking on the starboard sponson decks ( if that is what they are called?) portholes and roofs on the newly added galley and WC areas. Now to plank the Port side

the last shot shows the condenser nestled in place under the RC bits tray





No the stack will not have a brass cap-- I forgot I had it up there

As soon as the attenuator arrives from Phil at Forest Classics- plumbing commences!!

I believe I may stray from the true Clyde color scheme and go with white half way up the sponsons- just so they stand out more on the pond- at least that is how I am feeling today..

Cheers

[mogogear]

As The wait for the final plumbing parts drags on - more deck details attended to - rear steps up the paddle boxes, piping aft or the stack ( made from spend 22 casings and thick solder bent into shape!)the foredeck skylight made and new mast placement drilled and fitted and a few other small things done. Also made the tow hook functional after affixing it and making the hook spring centering. A rear bowser line will help keep any tow line and  job centered and directing the leverage down on the wheels- if I do any real tow activities..we will see with careful testing.

Taking it all apart and painting will commence in a short while- I think I will never really be the Flying Scotsman - she resemble the George Brown a little in layout  and hull shape but with a full pilot house. Flying Scotsman inspired is about the best I will do I think 

[mogogear]

Finally my BIX Attenuator arrived and I could commence with something STEAM . The boat remodeling is fun and all that - but I do like the power plant planning and doing a little more.

I still need to get the feedpump done ans the steam feed line running forward to the stack. There the feed will take a dodge through the stack and down into the flue return on the Cheddar boiler- - as it has a removable end cap- that part will be much easier. The it will exit just under the top site glass support tube and on toward the engine running parallel to the site glass tube and then hanging a big rt hand turn.





I would have loved to have connected the attenuator to a lower fitting but this old style lower site glass fitting will not accommodate my original plan. A dampened steam pressure fluctuation reading pressure below the water line in the boiler was my read on the subject-others may differ. anyway for now It will run off the top blank in the steam dome- If it proves erratic- changes will occur

[R.G.Y.]

Looking good greg. I have an electronic gas control on my GlenUsk paddler and that runs from that position on the boiler. Geoff

[derekwarner_decoy]

Hi PD's....Mo & RGY....the diaphragm's in the gas regulators....be they Forrest Classic, JMC or Anton.....are neoprene and technically rated to approx 100 degrees C only

If possible it is preferable to take hot water from the lower boiler area @ 120 degrees C than steam from the steam dome @ 150 degrees C @ the boiler top.....

However the trick is to prefill the steam pilot line to the gas regulator with cold water  prior to the first boil-up  ....& bleed the line @ the regulator inlet union & never lag this line  we want the water/condensate as cool as possible

Another good thing if funds allow is an isolation needle valve on the inlet pilot pressure water side to the regulator.........when you think about it...it is not just nice to have but also allows the pilot pressure signal to be isolated from the regulator during your initial boiler commissioning & steam trials.......

It's the old story....lets just test & prove  one system at a time.......  .....Derek

[mogogear]

However the trick is to prefill the steam pilot line to the gas regulator with cold water  prior to the first boil-up  ....& bleed the line @ the regulator inlet union & never lag this line  we want the water/condensate as cool as possible

SHANKS!!!!?  but......

Say this part again please - I followed the first bit about wanting to fill the line with water - and I understand the reasoning... the bit about bleeding off is where I got lost...Bleed all the "buffer" water  out of the line ? do this each time ? some more reasoning to help my feeble mind.. please Mr DW?

So..... leave a section of water ( that will be air cooled enough to prevent early deterioration of the diaphragm??



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[derekwarner_decoy]

Mo...it may sound silly.....but  .....

1. loosen the tube nut that connects to the verticle base of the regulator
2. disconnect the tube nut that connects the pilot tube to the steam dome
3. rotate the tube so the highest part is vertically upwards
4. fill the tube with water
5. if it is 1/8"OD copper tube........there is a chance you may get an air pocket trapped
6. by looesening the tube nut further [as @ 1.] you will flush/purge any air out & then gently [thumb & forefinger] tighten the nut
7. rotate the tube & retighten top & bottom tube nuts

In theory you will never have to repeat this exercise unless you need to remove the regulator for what ever reason...... ........

If you did not follow these simple steps........on the first boiler boilup you would be exposing the regulator neoprene diaphram to steam @ 150 degrees C  ......until it condensed &  got .......Derek
 

[mogogear]

# 1 is my problem line -The words "loosen the tube nut that connects to the vertical base of the regulator" is confusing to me

Because this apperars so critical- I want to be clear...

Albeit, I comprehend fully the concept of  the entire area on the "pressure side of the diaphragm" is covered in water - with no traces of air bubbles. Tube included. Makes sense as does "do not" lag so it can be air cooled to keep from being too hot for said diaphragm membrane.

To do what you suggest I disconnect it - rotate upwards ( at least the steam feed end) to fill. Tap and make sure there are no trapped air bubbles? The subtle nuance of loosening this other tube nut has got me by the shorts hairs as I think you indicate it will allow air to escape or force any trapped air out- 

Sorry for being thick headed- Clock face wise - 9, 12, 3 or 6 o' clock is the "nut" you are pointing me too?

 

[derekwarner_decoy]

  ...Mo...all will be OK....... 
Attached is an image from the Forrest Classic WEB site......

It shows gas in @ 6.00 o'clock, gas out @ 12.00 o'clock & steam/water pilot signal connects @ 3.00 o'clock

I understand your gas > & < is reversed .....but the steam/water pilot signal still connects @ 3.00 o'clock 

It is this 1/4"x 32 TPI nut that should be loosened  ...then rotate the tube.....fill with water &    ...until all of the bubbles are gone

Polish the tube or paint it black...remember we want the column of water/condensate to be as as possible

I look forward to your futher progress ........... ....Derek

[mogogear]

Clear and noted..Thanks for your patience- It was  as I thought-But it cost only you posting once more to avoid a costly and long distance correction if I got it wrong.

Thanks Derek- the suggestion was greatly appreciated..

[mogogear]

When I posted some research questions a while back Marinemole posted a picture or two of Lachie's Flying Scotsman

SO I now have a question or three:
-- what is this structure just behind the aft companionway?and what is it used for
--Does it have doors on the aft side ?( facing aft) The drawings in the Tug book reveal nothing and note nothing

I would like to know something about before I make a brown box behind the companionway

    As always thanks for correct answers and good guesses !

[PeeWee]

Hi,
I have several drawings in a book if you wish me to scan them,  the boot is british steam tugs by p N Thomas incase its the one you have

[mogogear]

Hi,
I have several drawings in a book if you wish me to scan them,  the boot is british steam tugs by p N Thomas incase its the one you have

Thanks Ian, I have the Thomas "Tug"  book- as excellent as it is , nothing revealed there- I am hoping that Lachie with his build or someone else actually has the Traplet plans of equal and can tell what the heck that "locker" is . Sure as the wrord if I build it with doors it will be something else

[marinemole]

If Lachie's model is accessible, and if you've ever seen his garage that's a BIG if, I'll try to get photographs. We have a funeral to go to tomorrow so might be a couple of days.

Andy

[mogogear]

As I will await ( a little) to see what Marinemole comes up with on the rear locker..BTW , thank you sir!!

This is where I got to on the aft deck:

A auxiliary water tank ( with a fill port up through a pre-existing hole in the deck,

a rear sky light for the mate and captains quarters and a rear companionway ahead of the mystery locker



The companionway acts as a "cork" and is removable from the fill tube



The tank is removable as well and fitted with a vent tube , a suction line as well as the fill tube



I replaced the life boat that covered the rudder linkage with this:



Lastly,  I built my own steam anchor winch...pictured is the one I copied.
 So here it is prior to gluing and painting



6 total hours and Glue+ 51 pieces and 4 colors later





I will be removing the Samson post



Fire away gentlemen 

Time for a beer