Saito Delta Queen Build

[kurlander]

I want thank you all for the input. It has given me a new insight. I like the cable type of system. If I placed inside the outside tube two plastic (or other material) channels on each side the length of the tube and on the sliding tube glue two strips that fit inside the channels and that would keep the stack sliding straight.
One problem with the Hartman plans is that they do not give any dimensions for the smokestack so I have to figure it out. The original Delta Queen did not have this stack for there were no low bridges  they had to go under. They had to rebuild when the went East.
Since the plans do show the dimensions of the pilot house as 4 inches high and is as high as the curve of the bottom tube I can see that the retracting stack is about another 4 inches. I will do closer figuring as I start building. Thanks again.

[derekwarner_decoy]

Hi PD's........kurlander we have another current paddler build where the constructor has installed two small diameter brass [K&S] tubes with belled out ends & he is runing an equal push/pull cable set for the rudder control 

I will try & think of the build & post a link...as his work in this respect is interesting........

We also have another current DQ build by ir3  ......you could consider sending him a PM asking the dimensions of his smoke stack & reconfirm the scale........ Derek
 

[kurlander]

I am always willing to consider anything about the Delta King and Queen for it helps build a present boat that has changed over the years. I appreciate any help I can get.

[derekwarner_decoy]

Sorry PD's.....ERROR.....I think the setup below is running chains in a pull/pull steering setup...... ...............Derek

where the constructor has installed two small diameter brass [K&S] tubes with belled out ends & he is runing an equal push/pull cable set for the rudder control 

[kurlander]

I did the natural thing and bought the paddle wheel kit from Barry in Australia.
It is great. I read the instructions about 5 times and went over the pieces to see how they would fit.  I then realized that my fat fingers would not fit in to paint after construction so I went outside and painted all the pieces. I then slowly glued the wheel together. I used Loctite Super Glue Control Gel which can place a pin head of glue as you squeeze the sides and one does not have to wait long to have it dry. TO REMOVE IT FROM YOUR FINGERS USE CHEAP COOKING OIL AND RUB THE SPOT. I could not find any small bearings to fit the shaft so I got the Du-Bro Nylon Nose Gear Block cat # 156, cut them apart and enlarged the holes to fit the shaft to where they spin freely. Am thinking of drilling a  small hole and attaching a flexible tube to drop sewing machine oil into it for the Delta has many tubes to lubricate the block.. After full assembly I took a red permanent marker and touched up places where I scratched the paint. Photos in next post.

[kurlander]

Here are the photos:

[PeeWee]

That's a very nice wheel you have there.  I like the ruler shot, gives a nice perspective on the scale.

[ir3]

Hi PD'rs,

I've been away from the build for a while but now back on it.    No new pics yet but some will be coming. This kit, while starting out to be quite nice, deteriorated very quickly.  Most of the plywood shrunk or changed shape making the building of the cabin structure very difficult and requiring too much time for me to invest to make corrections. The results of this will be that my model will be one that has been on the river for 15 years and is desperate need dry dock and retrofit.

  I have a question about a hobby shop in Australia. It is the Hobby Centre run by David Cooper. I placed an order from him for some Saito Parts over 3 months ago. About a month into the order I email'ed him for an update and he said that they were about two weeks away and would soon be available. Two months later, no parts and no response to 4 email requests for information. I sent him a sizable sum of money for the items and unfortunately I am past the time to have PayPal do an investigation. I guess I am out the funds and of course, will never do any business with that establishment again.  Does anyone know of this shop and the reputation of the proprietor.

Secondly, when I first got interested in Steam, I purchased the kits for  the Clyde steam engine from Miniature Steam Pty Ltd. I am not going to use this engine. It is built but has not had steam applied. The cladding has not been installed. I have the engine, burner, boiler, two inch refillible fuel tank and the oil trap. If anyone is interested, please contact me offline.

Thanks and updates to the build will be posted soon.

Iran

[Eddy Matthews]

Post a message about the steam plant in the "Buy, Sell or Swap" area with some photos Iran, and I'm sure someone will be interested.

Regards
Eddy

[derekwarner_decoy]

Hi PD's.......ir3...when I was contemplating my Y2DR..I e-mailed 3 Australian retailers who presented the Y2DR SAITO product on the respective WEB sites

Hobby Centre run by David Cooper ......was one of the 3...however they did not acknowledge my enquiry...although did put me on the mailing list!!!!! .......needless to say I have deleted the auto listing offers

All I could suggest is continued polite communications from you ..... ...like one per day......Derek

[Barry]

Blimey! That didn't take you very long to do. Looks like you did a good job of putting the wheel together.

[kiwimodeller]

Iran, going back to an earlier part of this post, could you please measure for me the length (centre of crank hole to centre of hole the link attaches too) of the Pitman Arms. I am slowly progressing with my New Zealand sternwheeler Manuwai and would like to copy the Delta Queen system of rods and links.
Thanks, Ian.

[Eddy Matthews]

Iran, going back to an earlier part of this post, could you please measure for me the length (centre of crank hole to centre of hole the link attaches too) of the Pitman Arms. I am slowly progressing with my New Zealand sternwheeler Manuwai and would like to copy the Delta Queen system of rods and links.
Thanks, Ian.

If the model is steam powered, the length of the sternwheel crank has to be half the length of the engine stroke - ie. if the engine has a 2" (50mm) stroke, then the crank will be 1" (25mm). If your using electric for power you can make the length anything you want, as long as it looks right...

Regards
Eddy

[kiwimodeller]

Eddy, I am going to run cranks on a dummy shaft, not directly on the engine. The engine will drive the dummy shaft by chain and sprocket to get the reduction I feel will be needed. I just want to find out how short a crank length I can get away with. By mounting the dummy shaft just above deck level where the cylinders originally sat I am hoping to get away without cutting too deep a slot in the transom for the link to operate in. I will also try and hide the cranks behind fake cylinders if they are not too long. I agree that with cranks fitted direct to the engine crankshaft the centre to centre length would have to be half the stroke. As I understand the Saito paddler engine to have a 20mm stroke that would mean a 10mm crank centres length. It would be good to get away with one that short which is why I would like it confirmed. Cheers, Ian.

[ir3]

Hi Ian,

The distance between crank pins on the Pitman arms is 232mm. Hope that helps.

Sorry about not posting but I have not been able to get to my projects for some time. Hope to get back soon.

Thanks for keeping the thread alive.

Regards to all,

Iran