Moteur Oscllant double effet

[potty]

On we go:-

Four holes were drilled and tapped M3 in the base, the set up for this was the same as for the other end so no pics.

Last job on the standard mill out the slot to take the fly wheel, first a 9.5mm hole was drilled through, then using a nice new 10mm end mill the extended part of the slot was mill in all the components:- like this



The the slot was milled out all the way through as far as the 9.5mm hole:- like this



Her they are six of the seven done, the Seventh I've put to one side to experiment with later.



Stew

[potty]

The next bits to make call for a fair bit of turning, the first part is the pipe coupling nothing complicated about the turning so didn't take any pics. To drill the clamp holes I made a little jig, this is it in use.



This is it with the the parts.



Next operation mill the flats I made some little plugs to fit in the holes so that I could sit them on top of the vice and bring the holes level.



Then I sat the milled side on a parallel to mill the other.



This sort of worked but I was not happy with it I've got another similar part to make so may think up another method.

And here they are all done and how they fasten the pipe to the Standard.



Stew

[potty]

The next bit is the stuffing box come cylinder head thingy   

Another job with a lot of lathe work.

Turn down a goodly length enough to make 2 or 3 from



Turn down, drill, part off, Turn down, drill, part off, turn down another goodly length repeat repeat repeat.



And you end up with a box of bits.



These are not finished yet I've got to turn the register for the cylinder on the other end, Drill some holes WITH A JIG. and square the flange off, but before I do that I'm going to pick the boiler job up again for a couple of days I hope fingers crossed and all that.

Stew

[potty]

Spent a bit of time making the jig to drill the holes in this gland thingy

Here we are with a drilled part.



Thought I'd point out a few design features of the jig.

The base is relieved so that it sits flat.



The plain diameter clears the job to give the drill guide location thats concentric with the job.



Make sure you can hold the jig safely, my first attempt was made with a noggin of steel from my scrap box than I realized my fingers would be close to the drill as it came through the job, I thought Ill just after be careful, but then thought my time would be less painfully used making a new one than waiting in the ER room.



Stew

[steamboatmodel]

It is looking great, a well made jig.
"I thought Ill just after be careful, but then thought my time would be less painfully used making a new one than waiting in the ER room."
That was a good thought remember Rule #1 Do not cut the Pink Things.
Even working with wood I now use clamps, jigs and fixtures to keep myself from receiving cuts (Something you think about when you take Warfarin and work alone).
Regards,
Gerald.

[potty]

Thanks Gerald:- it always pays to keep the red stuff off the floor

To finish this part off

Mount back stop in the head stock and face to length turn register to 10mm dia*1mm length, then using the two wire trick mill the flats for a nice match on the cylinder.



Here they are with one in place and studs in place that will take the gland seal.



Now for the other end, this cap is only 3.5mm thick with no through centre hole so its not to easy to jig up, time for another approach:- Turn 17mm dia, a goodly length, enough to make all the caps plus a bit.  Then over to the mill, using the PCD feature of the DRO drill the holes full depth of the drill.



Back to the lathe turn up 10 mm register and part off, repeat repeat repeat, until no more holes left then back onto the mill drill four more holes full depth of drill again back to lathe etc etc, I got 7 parts out of each cycle so it was nice and quick.



Then mill the flats as before, and her we are all finished.



Getting a good collection of parts still quite a few to go though.

Stew

[potty]

I've not done an update on this for over a week, reasons being a short holiday, domestic duties, and I was beginning to repeat myself, lot of the bits required similar techniques with stops etc, so I just got on with making bits until something interesting came along.

The rotary valve is the interesting bit 

I've gone away from the drawing with this one because John tipped be off that the drawing put the arm in a awkward position, and he added a stop to the movement.

The first job was to drill and part off some brass, then mill a 5.5mm slot across the middle.

This slot becomes the reference feature for the position of the air ports, so to get this location correct I first turned up a mandrel and with this on the rotary table milled a location key in it for the slot.

Like this



The valve was then fastened to it and using the rotary table and a 2mm slot drill the ports and the stop slot milled.



When using a rotary table its all to easy to get lost, so with a soft pencil I mark the degrease on the scale I want to work too.

Her they are with the crib sheet I used.



And here's a box of bits.



I've got enough bits to do a trial assembly to see how it all fits:- The base and take off is from Johns spare box.



I'm going to have to do a bit of bling work soon.

This job is going on the back burner for a couple of days, its the club Gala next week (18th Sept) so I want to see if I can get my boiler finished and some of my model polished up to add to the show, if any of you Guys live in the South Cheshire area the club is located between Crewe and Nantwich behind the Peacock Pub, if you want to drop in and have a look round and a ride on one of the locos.

Stew

[potty]

Well got this off the back shelf, and made a start on the piston,con rod, and big end assy.

I'm making the piston and big end out of ally bronze which has good wear properties.

First Job skim three lengths of bar down to 10mm the same size will do for the big ends. Ally bronze is not that easy to machine its very sticky and generates a lot of frictional heat, but John advised be to use a slower RPM, and it worked a treat.



The pistons were then drilled a tapped and parted off from one of these lengths.

I'm not making the big ends to the drawing I'm going to make them square more big end shape if you know what I mean

So over to the mill and with the spin indexer mill the 10mm bars to 7mm square.

At this point thing went wrong with the first bar I was planning to drill 4mm holes along the bar for the bearings but I had too much flex in the set up even with a centre and a jack under the bar the holes were coming out all shapes,



Plan B scrap the bar off turn and mill another one up, and drill them in the vice.



With a self centering four jaw in the lathe and using a bit of 4mm rod through one of the cross holes as a stop, face, turn step, drill and tap M3, not forgetting to drill a 1.5mm 3mm dia register hole, this will help pull the con rod concentric when its screwed home.



Remove the cross bar first before turning.



Check that I'd got the correct hole centre.



Whilst I'd got the spin indexer set up I fluted a couple of bars to make knobs out of for the displacement lubricator.



Her are the con rod ends finished and a couple of lose assemblies.



Last job of the day clean the pistons a rods and glue with thread lock, I'll leave them over night so I can make a start on turning the pistons to size in the morning.



Stew

[potty]

Things have slowed down a bit on this job:-

It's amazing how a six month old rug rat can distract you enough to keep you out of the shed. 

Any way finished off the pistons the only pic I took was of the set up to final turn the OD to size with a nice sharp honed tool.



Then I went on and knocked out the power take off bearing housings, nothing too interesting on these I've shown similar set ups before.



Now this will interest you:- the Base Plate.

This is made from brass sheet so first job cut seven out to rough size and stick them together with two way tape, and give the bundle a squeeze in the vice.



I then milled the two opposite long sides clean and parallel.

Then with the bundle clamped together as an insurance drill the four corner holes 3mm as each hole was drilled a stuck a m3 cap screw in it just in case things wanted to move.



Then bolted the plates together this make the bundle nice a secure for milling.



Then mill down the short edges to clean them to size



Then blue the job and mark out the cuts and the rest of the hole position.



Then chain drill 3.5mm.



Then connect the chain up with a 4mm slot drill.



I struggled to get them apart so put them in a cup of boiling water to soften the glue and cleaned them off with petrol.

That's it Job done.



Stew

[derekwarner_decoy]

Hi Pd's ......well done Potty  .......& isn't Prussian BLUE a nice  colour .....Derek 

[potty]

Cheers Derek

I bet you guys thought I'd given up on these, well I've been on holiday GUESS WHERE.

Here's a clue



You can see more pics her

http://madmodder.net/index.php?topic=3735.0

Since getting back I've finished of the base girders sorry no pics and started on the displacement lubricator.

Decided to fabricate the lubricator up from copper tube as this will save on material, making from solid would just reduce a lot of good material into swarf.

These are the bits for the body.



I've fitted a bleed nipple into the base so that the water can drained off and the oil top up, without taking the engine off steam.

Bits silver soldered together and a trial fitting on the engine to see how they look.



Still got to drill the steam hole in the pipe and make some caps, and that all of the bits made for the engines, next job up a bit of bling and set up an assy line.

Stew

[potty]

Well got No 1 running I went through a bit of learning curve, had to do a little bit of fettling and run the tight spots out with a power drill for a couple of minutes with plenty of oil, its now nice and free and running as sweat as a nut, and the forward and reverse works like a dream.

Her it is all oiled up and ready to go.




I'll post a vid when I get the rest running.
 


Stew

[potty]

Ok Her's the vid of the no 1 running.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IRJ9s9h4nlE&layer_token=143fa5b93328b9a5

Enjoy

Stew

[potty]

Thanks for you comments Guys

Well the last week as bin a bit slow in the shop domesitc duties called but I've managed to change this



Into this



Times Seven



I made a crude manifold and tried running all seven at once but the best I could do was six, some of the ports on the manifold were hogging all the air, so the supply to some of the engines was low, but you'll get the idea.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2szI_OkvrEQ

Stew

[Eddy Matthews]

Well done Stew - It's certainly unusual to see six engines running at one time!

Regards
Eddy