Moteur Oscllant double effet

[potty]

This is going to be a batch build of a very good French design of a twin cylinder double acting revering verticle engine, these engines build up into a powerful engine that have many applications.

The drawing are available free her http://jpduval.free.fr/Plans_moteurs_vapeur_p1.htm

Its important with a batch build to keep the parts the same size as best you can, this way you can use stops to allow quick set ups.

First up the cylinders.

I dropped on a bit of brass bar at the scrappy that was close to size, so first job rough cut the to length and fly cut the section to size.



Then using the Keats angle plate, face them all off to same length.



Then on one cylinder only drill a nice deep centre for the bore position.



Now the next bit is where the Keats comes into its own, if I was just making one I could have used a independant four jaw chuck and picked up the bore position with a clock, but as I'm doing more than one this would have been a pain.

Clamps the cylinder in the Keats and with the Keats loose on the face plate, wind a centre tight into the cylinder, this pulls the bore onto the centre line of the lathe, clamp the Keats tight to the face plate.



The parallel on the face plate is their to stop the Keats slipping and to act as a counterbalance.

Thats it all you have to do is drill a ream change to next cylinder repeat, repeat,



This lost took just over an hour.



To position the rest of the holes in the cylinders, just use your vice stop so when you've got one positioned just keep changing them round until all are done change position for next hole repeat repeat, where required the holes were tapped using my tapping stand.



For the end cap holes that are on a PCD and positional relationship to the air ports I made  jig, that had a small dowel that located in the air port, this is it in use.



And with a finished cylinder.



Stew

[Red_Hamish]

Hi Stew, an  excellent photo-journal on how to build a lovely little engine. This is way beyond my skills or engineering facilities but it is good to see your progress.

cheers

Jim

[potty]

Thanks Jim


Thanks Lads

I needed some shed time today to get over the stress of taking my 85 year old Dad his 87 year old sister and my 88 year old aunt out for a drive and a pub lunch all three are hard of hearing and wear hearing aids of sorts that never seem to work right, on top of that my Dads sister has a very strong scots accent. I spent the time repeating and translating the conversations that were crossing over and getting mixed up whilst trying to drive, answering the same question time and time again like:- where are we "Buxton", two minutes later where are we "Buxton", two minutes later where are we "Buxton" two minutes later where are we " F*****g New York"

 

Any way back on topic

For drilling the holes in the cylinders and keeping them all the same depth I fitted little sleeves over the drills to act as depth stops, for the smaller drill I glued the sleeves in place for the larger one a slit the sleeves and pinched the slit in slightly, to keep them in place at the set depth. You put the drill in the chuck so that the sleeve is hard up against its jaws and tighten up on the drill shank, you then simply drill the hole as far as the sleeve and thats it all the holes are the same depth.

This will give you the idea.



Next job I made a start on the crank webs, the drawing calls for two webs but I'm doing the build with three webs per engine this is one of John Bogstandard's design improvements to give a more positive power take off.

Skim down a length of brass bar to 28mm and then slice off 6 mm wide discs.



I'm using a 1/16" part off blade to reduce wastage, I didn't part off all the way the last 1/8 I finished off with a small hack saw this way the disc wouldn't get trapped by the centre.

Next face off one side flip over and face to 5mm thickness, using a round nosed tool this gives a nice finish, when doing a batch try and get a real good finish off the machine this cuts down on post machining polishing.



Set up again and centre drill them rough drill and ream 4mm with a machine reamer, its not important for the hole to be concentric with the OD most of the OD will be chopped away, the critical feature is the hole centres for the crank off set, which will be tomorrows job.

Her we are doing the last one with the rest threaded on a bit of 4mm bar.



Stew
 

[potty]

Next op with the crank webs drill the off set holes, there will be two types 7 with one off set for the power take off and 14 with two off set for the engine crank.

First turn a mandrel with a nice fitting location diameter and a short length threaded M4, and a deep centre in the end

Then over onto the mill grip the mandrel in a chuck and with the chuck loose on the table wind a centre down tight into the centre in the mandrel, clamp the chuck firmly to the able thats it the mandrel is now accurately centered under the mill, zero your dials and off set 10mm.



Drill first off set hole 4mm in all the webs.



Put 7 aside then off set 10mm the other way and drill a four mill hole in the mandrel to take a pin, then using the first hole drilled in the web and a peg use this to locate for the second hole.



Drill the remaining webs with a 2mm hole.

Here they are all done with the mandrel



Stew

[potty]

Well back in the shop after a short holiday with our son and his wife, he lives near Edinburgh (Scotland), August always a good time to visit Edinburgh as its festival time lots of plays and things going on managed to see a couple of fringe plays very good really enjoyed them.

Back to the build:- next job to shape the webs, drilling the holes all off the same jig lets you set them up like this.



Then nibble nibble nibble, flip them over nibble nibble nibble and you've got them milled out.



For drilling the pinch hole use a couple of dowels to get them level and set your vice stop, center drill the first one then the next then the next etc etc etc.  Then drill them all tapping drill, then drill half way through clearance then slot drill 2mm drill for the screw head.



Then using the same trick over to the tapping stand for tapping.



The next job is to split the webs but for that I need to make a Arbour for a 1mm thick slitting saw, that's a job for tomorrow.

Stew

[PeeWee]

Hi Stew,

A very nice build here.  On looking at the plans link and your components, this looks like the engine that i have acquired, though Bogs modified it for paddles.  do you know if it is the same?  see link http://www.paddleducks.co.uk/smf/index.php?topic=5237.0 for pictures.

regards

[potty]

Hi Pee Wee

Yes its the same one I'm making the verticle version, John has loaned me an Horizontal engine to copy some the improvements that he incorporated into the design, John's conversion to horizontal is quite straight forward if you can get the gears.

Stew

[potty]

OK up bright and early this morning.

First job make the mandrel for the slitting saw.  I like to make the washers at the same time this way they are custom made for the mandrell and work a lot better.

Her it is, along with the 1mm thick slitting saw I'm going to use John gave it to me a while a go its very good quality, thanks John.



You can see the benefit her of making the washers for it to give a good clamping area.



To set the webs up I used the two dowel method again to get it level, but this time as I've got to remove the dowels I only set up two webs at a time.



And her we are cutting through into the third hole.



That's it it took about 30 minutes to slit all 14.

This should show what the third hole is for, It's make the web into a pinch clamp to hold the journals in place.





Stew

[potty]

Made a start on the Standards, the drawing calls for 20mm square brass, I failed to find a supplier to sell me the small qty I wanted,  most had a miniumum order qty of 500 kg, Macmoddels had 7/8" in stock and as its close I had a run out to collect it and save the postage.



Cut to length with a hack saw the bar end with the chamfer looked as though it might not clean up.



Then with a self centering four jaw and a back stop, face them all off to the same length.





The chamfer didn't clean off  :bang: :bang: :bang:  but it looks like it just might be fit for use after milling to size.

Using a fly cutter mill to 20mm square, to do this I first roughed two side to give a square of about 20.8, then set the mill to take a cut down to size, locked everything and at this setting skimmed the remaining sides to get all to the same size, I like to work on the + side so the sizee I have is 20.2.




The chamfer just left a slight witness this can be my keaper.

Next some hole drilling, First thing I did was scribble up a crib sheet, so that I don't get mixed up. Then using an edge fider first centred the mill up on the centre line of the bar, then again with the edge fnder found the end of the bar, and moved the table onto the 4mm hole position, and made this my datum position so everything was zeroed up.



First hole centre then drill undersize to leave a wisker for a 4mm hand reamer.


Now for the steam ports, this is just a mater of chasing arround the datum + and - on the cordinates first with a centre drill then a 2.2mm drill.





Then x and y back on zero and off set to bring you to the bearing coordinate.

Centre drill then roughing then 1/2" drill.



And finaly finish off with a 13mm hand reamer:- I'd tried this drill combination out first on a bit of scrap brass to make shure i got a good fit on the bearing.



Just a trial fit of the few parts to see how it looks.



I've got the rest to do now but that a job for tomorrow

Stew

[potty]

Well not much to show for new set ups as I've spent the morning machining the rest of the standards. With the vice stops all that's required is to keep loading the standards to the vice making sure that they are hard up against the stop and down on the parallels.

This is the stop in use.



And this is them all drilled



Not finished yet another four sides to drill but not quite as complicated.

This bits off Topic  : but I'd show you a pic of the most useful bit of kit I have.



The humble two inch paint brush.

It changes this



Into this in seconds



Keeping the work area clear of swarf is critical, trapped swarf will move the job off datum and throw it out of square, and if its between the vice jaw and the job it will mark the job.

When doing repeat parts an operation that requires multi tools I like to keep the tools easy at hand in a box along with all the other bits required.



The six inch rule is for a quick check that the first hole is going in the right place if that ones right all the rest will be.

And the small lead hammer is it tap the work down onto the parallels the lead gives a dead blow, that stops the work jumping back off the parallels its something to do with the way the lead absorbs the energy of the blow, I think it can be explained by one of Mr Newton's Laws but my physics is not up to a better explanation.

Stew

[steamboatmodel]

Looking good Stew,
I have to agree small paint brushes are ideal for swarf removal. I suggested the use of a Lead hammer to one of the young chaps just starting at a machine shop, and he told me they are banned for use now, they use a plastic dead blow type now. He borrowed mine to try in his home shop, and likes it better then the current ones, but Health and Safety says no.
Regards,
Gerald.

[potty]

Thanks for you comments Gerald

I forgot to say its better to clean the vice off before you remove the job.

I know you must take health and safety seriously but some times I think its taken too far. I worked in an industry that had one product that had a lead core we made millions a week, cast our own lead and extruded it in to wire the guys were handling tones of lead each week, appropriate precautions were taken, along with regular blood checks, I know of no one having a problem so how handling a lump of lead on the end of a bar can be seen as a hazard is beyond me, sometimes I think its a case of a little knowledge being a dangerous thing.

Stew

[derekwarner_decoy]

OK...a little off thread  ...remember when we used white lead [paste] to install pinions & keys to shafts etc  .......that was 45 years ago & I still have eight fingers & two thumbs & I don't think I have lead poisioning  .....Derek

[potty]

I bet you use to make toy lead solders to Derek 

I think my shop Gremlins have got one of my little spanner, I wish a new what the little buggers are building.

A good mornings work done, drilling and tapping for the inlet and exhausts ports.

When starting on a new feature I like to mark the first one out, then with a bit of calculation work out the coordinates for the DRO, coming at it in two different ways gives you a check that you've got the features in the correct position.



Another thing that can go wrong when your doing multiple parts is that you end up loading the work the wrong way, so it helps to mark the end/side your working on and to store them in the box all the same way.



With everything correct it was just a matter of spotting with a centre drill turning the job round to do the other side etc etc then swapping over to the drill to depth repeat repeat next hole position repeat repeat.

To get the depth correct I used the DRO on the mill.



Then over onto the tapping stand to tap M2:- John put me onto a cheap supply of HSS taps but I'd already bought a set of carbon taps so I decided to use these to get the use out of them, these taps are good quality UK manufacture, It always pays to use good sharp taps as bluntness is one of the main causes of a broken tap.

Her we are a very satisfying morning work.



And an introduction to another brush this time an old toothbrush the stiff bristles are just the ticket for clearing the swarf from the tap, clogged taps are another cause of breakages.

Cheers

Stew

[potty]

Another good mornings work.

First job was to do a little mod on the ports. I spent a very pleasant couple of hours with John yesterday afternoon tucking into a bowl of wild plumbs he'd picked and chatting, we got onto these engines and he told me of a little mod to the design he carried out. The pipe work connects to the standard with a bit of a flange coupling that bolts flush to it, what John does is to extend the pipe through this coupling so that it protrudes through into the standard this makes for a better air seal, the crap o cad shows what I mean. so first thing I sunk a 1/8" slot drill 3mm deep into the feed hole.



Next job was to drill the connecting holes down the end of the standard 2 holes are 27mm deep and 2 are 6mm deep if you mix them up you've got a scrapper. To get the standard square I took advantage of the squareness of my vice I simply bolted a parallel to the side and butted the job up to this, then by use of the edge finder got the centre of the standard drilled m2.5 tapping in the centre then used the PCD feature of my DRO to find the position of the other holes, I did the two 6mm deep holes first, followed by the 27mm deep holes again I marked the correct face to load the job into the vice on all the standards so I didn't load them wrong.



When all drilled I then tapped the M2.5 centre hole on the tapping stand: the V black is just to add a bit of support.




Here we are all done just one face left now before I mill the slot for the fly wheel.



Stew