Paddleducks Paddleducks

News:

Welcome to Paddleducks..... The home of paddle steamer modelling enthusiasts from around the world.

Main Menu
+-

Main Menu

UserBox

Welcome, Guest.
Please login or register.
 
 
 
Forgot your password?

Search

Totnes Castle

Started by R.G.Y., November 14, 2012, 04:42:23 AM

Previous topic - Next topic
|

R.G.Y.

Thank you both, just camera into look at her replacement knee. Which has gone wrong. The patient slept most of yesterday, so managed a little play.
Cut and joined 3 plates, beet to shape on the padding on my stool. Cleaned the edges with sand paper & steel wool. Tinned where they join, big soldering iron is ideal. Seeing as I may have success I will now fit edging around the top to strengthen the edge of the tin. 
The reason for tin plate, I have a plan of the Duchess of Fife specifying this method. I was afraid to try before now. 
G.Y.

R.G.Y.

Over the weekend I had been thinking maybe it would be easer to epoxy the plates together. Having almost finished the 2 bottom strakes I will continue soldering. Finding it easer with each plate, as I learn, little tricks. Cleaning the plates with a sanding drum (dermal), keep the plate flat on the bench. Otherwise the plate will cruel up and destroy the sand paper. Don't put to much solder on the iron, or I get lumps of solder as it runs down. I am now holding the plates in place with masking tape. That is working well. Two strakes are taking almost half a can, as there are 12 strakes I will cut up 2 more cans.
G.Y.

R.G.Y.

Plating almost, well finished one side, just three more on the other. Drilling the portholes with a cone drill. Holding with grips don't want to cut my fingers. Sized to fit brass tube, (chromed will skim off) That will be the surrounds, fitted after finished painting the hull.
G.Y.

DamienG


R.G.Y.

Thanks Damien. Soldering almost finished. I have used two different melting point solders, I found that very useful. Tip don't keep you legs under the solder point, OW!
The foam mould removed along with the wooden frame. Will be replacing the frame around the deck level, and the two bulkheads each side of the engine room. Bulkheads will be recut 15mm deeper, to allow for the extra depth to accommodate the different boiler. This will be cut to the mark, keeping the shorter section, the stick is on the shaft line.  Need to clean up the outside and stop the leaks, Yes there are a few, but then to few to mention.
G.Y.

R.G.Y.

The Hull plating finished except for a few leaks. When they are sorted, I will be giving T.C. another rest. I have to repair my lathe, I will then be concentrating on competing my traction engine.   
G.Y.

R.G.Y.

Bearings fitted in to wooden blocks in to sides of hull. Bedded in silicone with stainless steel plate bolted over keeping them in. Boiler tube cut fire tube assembled not soldered. As I have to test the burner in such a short tube before the bend need to see if it stays alight, or burn at the top of funnel.
G.Y.

R.G.Y.

In the last post are shown the gears picked from my scrap box. These are for the engine to shaft drive, need to be about 3 to 1. will see which fit best. The engine built for another model is a tight fit, so will make a smaller one.
The fire tube complete, fitted in tube. Remainder of tube cut and flattened for the end caps.
G.Y.

R.G.Y.

The end plates made in the normal way lots of annealing, tapping & fitting. I do use wood for the former as I don't have a large enough piece of steel. In the photo I have turned upside down to finish, care has to be taken when using wood. Why if the copper digs in cant get it off. yes voice of experience.
Almost finished boiler. Stainless plate covers old soldering pad on the front end. The rest covered in wood. The external stays long enough at the back to bolt to the bulkhead, fix it to hull. Tested to 60psi safety valve set 25psi. just clean up & fit brass straps. 
G.Y.

DamienG


R.G.Y.

The boiler now finished so back here. It just fits had to cut 3/16" off each side of the deck surround to get it in plenty of room when in.  The engine I intended to use will not fit however. So will be making a smaller version, or a completely new design. depending what metal I have in stock.   With the deck in place another tight fit. The safety valve will stay at this angle. But  the connector angled,  to bring the funnel central & upright with a slight rake aft.  If that makes sense.
G.Y.

R.G.Y.

First off a plan showing both elevations, I had cut off the external in the original post.  This to show the funnel. 
Funnel made from an old hospital walking stick. The aluminium at 1/8th thick, so I turned it down to 1/16th, leaving the rings. Fixed to the boiler at vertical with the correct rake astern.  The photos don't give that impression. But it is all correct, honest.
G.Y.

derekwarner_decoy

Truly an appropriate use of a walking stick RGY......does the user have a replacement?......or did the user not need such an implement anymore :a102

The funnel rake angle looks just right  :goodnews

Derek
Derek Warner

Honorary Secretary [Retired]
Illawarra Live Steamers Co-op
Australia
www.ils.org.au

R.G.Y.

Good to hear from you Derek. We ran a rest home for 12 years, so not needed any more. As I changed it to two houses & three flats. We live in the ground floor flat, with basement, my work shop & all the useful rubbish left over.
G.Y.

R.G.Y.

The unfortunate thing is I have to use a stick to walk any distance. The good thing I am still here.  :laugh:
G.Y.

|
Powered by EzPortal
SMF spam blocked by CleanTalk