Too much for me Damien ....getting older and all that....I really feel it these days.

A ( bit crappy )  shot of the engine pod from the back.

Morning Victor......have been following on...

I am sure the bolted elements  will be of adequate strength, however will you ever need to have the facility to drain the pod?

Derek

Hi Derek.

I have placed  two half inch drains at the lowest point in the pod.

There are limber holes to drain condensation down to the drains.
You can see them in the corners here :



The holes are epoxy lined so that no water can wick into the end grain of the plywood and rot it out.



Epoxy lined drains.





The lid in the last two photos can leak rain water , but is drained the same way.

Thank you for the comment , and following along.

  Victor...I missed them from the posting on the 21st........ Derek 

The beast is bolted up.



14 x 120 x 12 mm ( 5 x 1/2 inch  )  galv coach screws keep the whole mess attached.

Fitting the jack plate.







Lining the bolt holes with epoxy.

Waiting for the epoxy to harden up so it can be drilled out makes this step slow.







I`m having wi-fi bandwidth problems , will try again in a day or two.

It`s lunch time here , so I`m hunting for some " dodgy " bandwidth.
Only three drop-outs so far .




I have trial fitted the jack plate , it looks like it should work ok...



I ground a sharp bevel on a piece of scrap steel tubing ( 1/2 inch ) and punched out some rubber seals / gaskets from an old
truck inner tube.These seal holes really well , reduce engine vibration and are also just as effective locking down tightened nuts on bolts as spring washers or Nylocs.



Gasket under square washer.



Jack plate and motor board trial fitted.









I need to cut some bolts to length , and dis-assemble the whole circus now and paint it all for the last time.

 

Hello everyone.

I have completed some more work on my pickle barrel water tank.

One inch steel flat bar was shaped with a hammer and drilled .









Painted with two coats of heavy duty metal primer.



The fill hose just pushes through the plywood top.





I added some light weight steel cladding to take away the ugly industrial look of a black poly barrel.





The barrel holds about 200 liters or 55 US gallons. The one inch flat bar secures it to the wall.







I have some more work to do like installing a silt drain and plug like this , and to connect a line to the 12 volt water pump feeding the shower and hand basin in the bathroom.

Looking good.

I bent up some brackets to anchor the posts supporting the main roof beam  over the rear deck.

45 mm x 6 mm ( 1 3/4  x 1/4  inch ) steel flat bar.



Brackets set in sealant and screwed down with 50 mm ( 2 inch ) bugle headed batten screws .



90 x 45 corner posts are notched into the toe rail .

Rear beam is made from three laminations of 2x2 s

Normally it would be a little odd to laminate the rear roof beam , as there is no real load on it at all , but I had no more 2 x 6 by 12 ft long .
I did have some odd bits of shorter 2 x 4 , so I just ripped it into 2 x 2 and glued it all together to get a 12 footer.



The top has a three inch camber cut into it to match the curve of the roof panels.

The bottom has a 3 / 4 inch concave curve cut into it so that it does not appear to sag .

The roof sheets are cranked down to prevent water from blowing under the edge of the sheet and onto the ceiling panels.



This is the tool roofers use to make the folds. $ 50 - $ 100.00

Or you can get a vice grip and just weld some steel angle onto the jaws .







This little tool makes perfect folds every time.

Cambered beams usually require cambered flashing to be made to order , but as I only needed one 12 ft piece I just cut darts into the roof sheeting and bent them down using the vice grip tool.





The last roofing panel is fixed in place with sealant.







A hardwood cover batten is fixed over the darts and completes the fixing.

A question about LED Can lights , ladies and gentlemen :

Some of you following this saga may remember that I am lining the ceiling with four inch foam ceiling panels.

I am hoping to make use some of the LED downlights under the rear deck, like this :







The roof structure consists of 2 x 4s on the outside ( gutter line ) , and 2 x 6s for the longitudinal s running parallel to the center line of the boat.

So ....those heat sinks are obviously there for a reason , and given that I have four inches of foam all around the cut out and foil over the top , where will the heat dissipate to ?

This is the cut out for one of the waste water vents , but it illustrates the issue I think :





Will this literally end up burning the house down ?

I usually do research before asking questions like this , but have had little time lately .

Thanks in advance people , as always.

Might be worth chatting to an electrician or at least staff of a dedicated lighting shop such as Beacon lighting they seem to have shops all over the place.
Damien.