Acrylic would turn brown very quickly you'd be better using a muffler paint for this area with zero chance of the paint catching fire.

Damien.

Work has started on the engine mount that will be bolted to the underside of the bridge deck.

The side panels are 2 layers 3/8 Meranti marine plywood epoxy glued together to finish at 18 mm or 3/4 inch .

Internal cleats are two layers of hardwood to finish at 42 x 42 or 1 1/2 + inches square.

There is also a triple laminated hardwood cleat that forms a sturdy bolting flange to bolt the whole thing onto the deck beams from below.
Epoxy glued , fillet and heavy biaxial tape , wet on wet.





The laminating of the panels was tedious because I had no bronze ring shank nails left and did not want to wait a week to get them sent.
They would have made things much easier and quick.



I pulled down the plywood with temp screws that needed to be filled after the epoxy had set .
Tedious.

Laminated rear panel .The motor board will be attached to this.

48 mm thick , or 1.9 inches approx.

I drilled some steel angle and cut slots to make a steel jack plate for the engine mount.



This is for fresh water use only so two coats of kill rust primer and two top coats of paint should be good.



Fixed part of the jack plate.
Engine board is five layers 9 mm ( 3/8 inch ) marine ply , 50 mm 2 inches thick .
35 ply . Strong.







Sliding ( slotted ) part will be attached with 12.5 mm ( half inch ) high tensile bolts .

Motor pod ( upside down here ) with jack plate attached.



I`ll post some pictures when the pod looks a bit more finished and presentable.

I had some visitors today so not much work got done to the engine pod , but it is slowly taking shape.

Biax tape to all external edges.



Sturdy bolt on flange at the forward end of the engine pod.

It all feels very solid and rigid.



A bulkhead is fitted inside the pod ,to resist the torsional stresses exerted by the motor , particularly when turning .

I glued and screwed , and  tabbed it in place with three layers of overlapping 100 mm ( four inch ) biaxial tape , again wet on wet.

Bulkhead tabbed in place with three layers bi-axial glass tape.
Limber holes can be seen at the bottom.

I was hoping to glass the pod exterior today , but the epoxy is still a little soft and smears the sanding belt.
Looks like that will happen tomorrow.



Position of the deck beams ( horizontal line at top ) marked out with chalk line.

The vertical lines mark the position of the blocking that will be fixed between.

3/4 inch flooring makes for handy bracing of the under floor structure and engine pod.



Epoxy sealed holes for fasteners.







Cleats are fixed to blocking and deck beams .

 

Still looking Damian ?







These engine pods are a lot of work , ( many steps ) .

I did get a quote to have one made in lighter weight foam core / composites , the cost was scary.

Engine pod is covered with 6 oz glass cloth.







Paint and bolt up next.

Yes mate I'm looking and enjoying your build.
Damien

The blocking between the deck beams is in place ready to bolt up the engine pod .



Cleats fix the blocking in place .
Three inch batten screws are driven into the 2x6 blocking through the 3/4 inch Form-ply flooring from above.
The pod spans three deck beams.

I am currently detailing the smaller parts and painting them prior to the bolt up.



Final touches with a file and emery paper.

I may need this cut down section for motor tilt.....?



Drains 12 mm or half inch.

  I'm really enjoying the innovation in your build.

Hi Damian ,

Your comments are appreciated.

Drilling the holes for the mounting bolts ( galv coach screws actually ).
1/4 inch pilot holes to make sure the coach screws drive square , central , and along the deck beams axis.



Followed by 1/2 inch.





Driving screws into the deck beam.



The blocking lines up with the bolt up flange.

Two coach- screws in ....12 more to go.





View from the rear deck.

It was 39.7 Degrees C ( 103.4 F ) by noon today , so I called it quits for the day.
Beer time.

    Very wise