Hi Derek.

  The floats will be working ones.

  Yes the nippers I use are similar as in the photo. they are ones I used many moons ago at work to trim flash and spews off plastic mouldings. I have found they come in very handy for the lots of things to trim when making bits and pieces.
  Yes there are a LOT of screws and having to hold the nuts with tweezers makes the hairs on the back of my neck stand up.

  I have started to paint the floats to give a wood grain effect and the first primer on the wheel itself.
  Photo's to follow.

Mike.

A photo of wheel painted also the brass feathering spindle which has a shoulder on the inside ( not seen ). With 4mm tapped hole in the outside end. At the moment the length is scaled from MY drawing.

  Mike.

First 2 photo's show hull braced with crossovers.

3 photo is bearing housing.

4 is a gear on the 5mm dia. shaft for the drive.

  Next is bearing housing screwed to the hull. It is outside as there is no room inside due to the deck.

Morning Mike.......that looks a robust drive  , however even at 5.0 diameter depending on the centre distance you could expect some in flex the shaft between the gear set

A simple bearing set similar to the outboard housings, & anchored down to the base of the hull via an angular plate could be made to look prototypical would cure any deflection

Is the 5.0 diameter paddle shaft stainless?.... & are those ZZ shielded ball races Grade 420?......they are available and cheap as chips......

I source mine from Small Parts & Bearings ...they are a world wide group...you will find them in the UK......Derek

  Hi All.

  Derek. Yes your idea to make a plate possibly with a bearing in it and screw it down I will do. As it will stiffen it all up. The stainless bearings are standard ones, magnets do not have much effect on them. I think they should last quite well. The covers can be taken off and replaced without to much trouble.

  Next photo's. Bearings on a try out. Next a start on the paddle wheel covers. The oak hardwood bracing goes right through the hull to give strength to the assembly. The paddle covers made from styrene sheet is made double skinned to strengthen it and a piece of u plastic on the wood at an angle wedges it in place.

  Last 2 photo's show how I made the ends of the wood frame pieces to take aluminium angle. 3mm screws in the brass plugs to give a tight and secure fitting.
  Also the shaped wood triangular pieces fitted by pinning and epoxy glue.

  Its taking shape!

     Mike.

  More photo's on Paddle box build. And a start on the rudder area. I had to strengthen keel as was hollow in that area so filled with epoxy. And a brass plate silvered soldered u shaped with hole for bottom of rudder. All epoxied together. I hope its not to easy to see once its all painted.

   Mike.

  The missing picture.

Coming along nicely Mike. 

   Thanks Damien.

   A photo of rudder area.

   Mike.

  A little more done. Shows the rudder and the port holes altered to suit the photo's of the many sister ships. Photos of the Dromedary are very thin on the ground.
This is one of the few points the hull is not quite right.

  Mike.

Coming along nicely Mike.     

Mike...as you mention, we see in your build, the two large roundish openings in the stern bulwark just like as shown in an image of HMS Lancaster

The confusing thing is all images of this vessel Class have the two athwart ship elliptical standard type hoops above the stern deck which is typical for a tug where these hoops keep the towing hawser from being caught on any deck fittings

So, what were the two large roundish openings in the stern bulwark used for?

You are doing a great job , keep the images coming....she is an interesting build........Derek

   Hi Derek.

  They are large. Probably for towing. The bollards are also huge and the strength of the hull built up inside and out. There are a lot of deck fittings so was not easy. The photo is of the sister ship Energetic. some towing ropes look quite impressive.

    Mike.

  The footsteps up the side of the paddle boxes taking shape. I am making them like this as on the Paddle ship they had 3 small ribs holding each thread in place. Which could very easily get damaged when handled. The wood tread to be put on after all the painting is finished.

  Mike.