Quote from: R.G.Y. on January 21, 2010, 10:19:33 PM.... I was tempted to keep these pictures secret! the job looks so rough....

So do mine before the first coat of primer goes on!
I'm sure it'll be perfect when it's done 

Kim here is one I made earlier. This is the model built entierly of foam covered in cider cans. She is the CROWPILL the  registred in Bridgwater Somerset to bring coal in to Bridgwater Dock.

Broken in half, and resting on a pillow. I use a pillow rather than a stand it won't mark the balsa, and will hold the hull still in any position. Note the dowel through the sponson, they need to be strong that is where paddlers tend to get lifted. The single nylon wing nut, back of engine bay holds it all together, along with two 6mm pins just aft of the paddle shaft. I did have 3/8th wooden pins, but though they may expand in the water and prevent me getting the boat home. So aluminium pins fit into nylon bushes. The black nylon bushes can be seen in top photo right hand side. The rough glue oosing out the joint is polyurethane wood glue I but a bead each side of the frames for extra strength. It is totally waterproof and gap filling, the only drawback if you get it on your skin you can't remove it for days. Geoff

Quote from: R.G.Y. on January 25, 2010, 05:36:14 AM
resting on a pillow. I use a pillow rather than a stand it won't mark the balsa, and will hold the hull still in any position.

Thanks for the very useful tip Geoff! It's funny how the simplest solutions are best.
I will definitely be making use of that tip in the near future. ( As soon as i have some new pillows for the bed... Shouldn't take much persuading the wife on that one.)
Thanks,
Kim

Kim feather pillows are best. geoff

Marked out the wheel pic 1. 16swg aluminium, ex stock car wing from my racing days.
Had a quick mockup just to see how it fits. pic2. Have to watch my fingers when turning the steam cock.
Off to the sun so work on hold. Geoff

Nice work. Do you have any plans for the paddle-wheels?

Quote from: R.G.Y. on January 27, 2010, 04:35:42 AM
Have to watch my fingers when turning the steam cock.

I'm not really into steam, but is there such a thing as a 90 degree steam cock, to keep the fingers out of harms way?

Quote
Off to the sun so work on hold. Geoff

Anywhere nice?

Regards
Eddy

Yes Eddy there is a 90 degree stop cock. But to save buying another. I will make  a new bush to turn the whole cock. I will also move the oil-er to the other port, to make room for the feed pump. As the clack has to be on the starboard. Geoff

Quote from: R.G.Y. on January 27, 2010, 04:35:42 AM
Marked out the wheel pic 1. 16swg aluminium, ex stock car wing from my racing days.
Had a quick mockup just to see how it fits. pic2. Have to watch my fingers when turning the steam cock.
Off to the sun so work on hold. Geoff

Could you post more shots of the engine?
Regards,
Gerald.

Gerald, Picture of my engines in my Gallery. If you would like more I will post when I return. Geoff

Thanks Geoff,
I keep forgetting to look in the Gallery.
Regards,
Gerald.

Most of the information I have found on the Duke. Geoff

Returned from holiday last night. Tenerife Eddy. While the boss unpacked and did the washing I was in the workshop all day. working on the paddle wheels. about 6 hours.  P1. First bolt the 4 plates together, drill 1 pivot hole (1.5mm) and using a gimp pin (small nail with a head) form a rivet. Drill the rest of the pivot holes and rivet every other one. Cut the nail off with side cutters as close as possible very gently tap the tapered cut left by the cutter to form the rivet. Best to have to little nail protruding, if to much the nail will bend disaster!! if to little use an other nail. P2. Next drill a hole large enough  to get a jig saw blade through. followed by smaller holes in the corners. P3. With a fine blade in the jigsaw cut out the centers. P5. All done Wish I had a mill with a rotary table. would have been a lot easier. File down to the scribed lines making sure you file square.  Leave the outside until last. P6  File off the rivets and 4 identical sides. P7 Tidy up the wheels I used a button to file to the pivot holes as this is critical. P8 The bending jig. P9 wheel in the jig con-caved. the top ply removed this holds the outer section flat.P10 Epoxy the wheels to the hub .The small rod indicates the wheels are square. P11 &12 work so far. You will see I have sanded down the hull. Geoff.

Welcome back Geoff, hope the holiday went well?

I'll bet the snow and sub zero temperatures were a shock to the system when you got back home!!

The wheels look good, but a hell of a lot of work!! Rather you than me with all that drilling, cutting, and filing!

Regards
Eddy