Freshwater

[Eddy Matthews]

Fantastic Mick.... There can't be many modellers of working models that build fully detailed interiors!

Some of us will attempt a bridge that is detailed, but rarely go beyond that. I doubt I would have the patience to go that far, but I can still appreciate the work that you've put into your model.

Keep the pictures flowing Mick, even if I don't comment on each post I still really enjoy watching the model develop, as I'm sure lot of other members do too...

Regards

[thewharfonline]

That has to be my fav model steamer on this site! (sorry everyone else0

[mjt60a]

Thanks    but I have to admit it's inspired by the other models I've seen both here and elsewhere, for example the George M Verity (I think it was) has a nice detailed interior complete with tea lady!
Let's hope mine doesn't sink!!
(should be OK, I tried it in the bath with two 12 volt batteries, there's no leaks and plenty of scope for ballast)

[mjt60a]

Not much to add (in the way of pictures anyhow) this week, I bought some pulleys for the drive (on Ebay, I needed four but saw a bag full for sale and now have a lifetimes' supply!) and fitted two to the motors and two to the drive half-shafts, I need to make mounting brackets for the motors/supports for the inboard ends of the shafts and get hold of some drive belts (large 'O' rings, or I could possibly use Mamod drive belts)
Also finished the paddlebox decoration, I've no idea what's supposed to be there as I have no clear pictures so I got a couple of decorative jacket buttons from the charity shop (found some with a sort of 'celtic knot' design) sanded them flat and glued them on the paddlebox - don't look too bad painted gold  
I've also started on the protective band which runs around three quarters of the hull (styrene I-beam, needs a wood strip inserted in it) and the support struts underneath (bits of wire coathanger)
Earlier in the week I decided to add rivets around the hull portholes, really should have been done before painting (and certainly before fitting the portholes!) but I only just decided how to do it and though the rivets look a bit big, I think it looks better than when it was completely smooth.
Anyhow, more later  

[Eddy Matthews]

Thanks for the update Mick.... I like the idea of using decorative buttons for the fancy work on the paddleboxes. I am planning on building the "Glen Sannox" after I've finished the Suter, and I was wondering how the heck I could do the paddlebox stuff.

I did notice that Model Dockyard do a good range of fancy decoration in cast metal - Mainly intended for static models of Galleons, but I'm sure they could be made to work on a paddler with suitable modification.

[mjt60a]

Just finished fitting the paddles and feathering mechanism;

I've now added the styrene nuts to disguise the 'plastic rivets' provided with the paddlewheel kit, and painted them red oxide colour.
Here's a view of the paddlebox (the correct way up) with the decorative scrollwork added and painted gold;

 

[Eddy Matthews]

A very neat job Mick!

The graupner paddlewheels really look the part after your modifications - Just goes to show how good they can look with a bit of work!  And the paddlebox with it's scrollwork looks great too.

Any idea how long it will be before you get it on the water, or have you already tested it?

[mjt60a]

Now I look again at those last two pictures they don't look as good as the real thing (or as they did on my computer) the portholes and the gold striping looks quite distorted, I think that's because I reduced them to about a quarter the size they were straight from the camera...
...as to how long until I can sail, I need to fit the motors, servos, speed control and rudder then sort out ballasting arrangements, then I could try it out. However, I'll probably test it in a makeshift pool in the garden (big sheet of plastic clamped to frame of 4x2) to sort out any 'bugs' like centering the weight distribution (position of the main drive battery to port or starboard should take care of that) and complete the construction before taking it out in public!
As far as construction goes, I have to make the aft saloon and promenade deck, lifeboats and davits, railings, some assorted items on deck (skylight, storage bins, buoyant seats) and various fittings (mooring bollards, capstan, windlass) plus the masts...
...but it's coming along nicely  

[thewharfonline]

I love your steamer, and even if the photos on the site aren't as good as the real thing the real thing must be really really good!

[mjt60a]

This weeks update;
Made and fitted the rudder, started constructing aft saloon...
 

[Eddy Matthews]

Nice to see it's coming along Mick.... I've got a long way to go to catch you up!

[mjt60a]

I had a head start, I started mine last november - and yours seems to be coming along nicely  
This week I finished the strip around the sponsons and made some progress on the aft saloon but now have run out of humbrol matt white, I bought some the other day but accidentally picked up revell paint by mistake and it just doesn't look the same (has a less matt finish and looks 'more white' when dry, if that makes any sense) I had a problem with the port navigation light until I realised red LED's require only 2.5 volts (the green and the white are about 3.4) and the correct value resistor has solved it.
See a bigger than usual pic (too big for the messageboard) here - http://www.btinternet.com/~mjt60a/models/freshwater04.html

[derekwarner_decoy]

hi Mick - [mjt60A] - a few questions

1) I noticed on you WEB site a snap of the sponson supports [guessing say 2 mm diameter x 55 mm long] - same snap as March 13 @ 7.11 PM as below - what material are the made from brass? bamboo? or plastic? - they look very strong - how are the secured to the hull & lower side of sponson?

2) in your Freshwater snap March 19 @ 6.57 PM I can see at the stern what appears to be one margin plank together with a second notched margin plank - is this standard? - I have down loaded a number of sketches from a Google search on 'margin plank' , but they all appear to be single margin plank construction however with my PS Decoy, two planks may be required - Derek

[mjt60a]

OK, Question 1;
The rods supporting the sponsons are pieces of wire coathanger (probably mild steel?) the 'ends' are cut to about 4mm over length and bent over to fit into holes drilled in the hull and into some wooden strips 5mm square in cross section, which run from the hull (at main deck level) to the outer edge of the sponson. The ends of the rods are, how can I explain, 'pinched with the wire-cutting area of a pair of pliers' to create grooves and inserted into the holes filled with araldite. The holes in the hull are above the waterline but are sealed with plenty of araldite on the inside just to make sure of watertightness and grip (because some of them didn't line up with solid frames - I didn't plan that far ahead when building the hull!).
Question 2;
The area of ply visible is a guide for positioning of the aft saloon and deck which will be attached to it. The 'outer' margin will be painted white (it represents the 'drainage channel' that I've seen on Waverley, Queen Mary 2 and other steam ships) The 'inner' margin is where the actual margin plank will be glued and is notched to fit the ends of the deck planks. The deck planks and margin plank will be somewhat higher than the white area around them.
I have no idea if that is how Freshwater was done but I had to make a decision here and it looks OK to me! (and hopefully no-one else knows if it's correct or not either!)
This pic of the bow and front of promenade deck area shows more-or-less how it will look (but a different shape, of course...)

     

I hope that's some help, anything else, feel free to ask, in the meantime I look forward to seeing pics of your model of Decoy  

[Red_Hamish]

Hello Mick (and all of you), on Q1 a good way of eliminating the pinched end would have been to cut off the rods required while holding the main piece in a vice and using a Dremel or other mini tools' cutting disc. This would have given a clean cut with 90deg ends. The down side is a non serrated edge is easier to extract unwittingly from the receiving hole no matter how much araldite is in there. On Q2 as you say if you are happy witht he result then stay happy and deride all knockers  

cheers

Jim