Okahumkee, standard scale

[Dave R.]

I've decided to build a model of the Oklawaha paddle steamer "Okahumkee" on
1:32 scale. I've chosen this scale as it is compatible with LGB Garden RRing and
other G-scale products; today, I (jumped the start) purchased some beautiful 1:32
Preiser Victorian Passengers.
The following drawings by John S. Browne, c. 1870, are (again) from the UF Achieves, Florida
Memories Project Photographic Collection.
The power plant will be electric, the hull will be plywood covered foam, the supper structure
will be detailed.
Thanks for your interest and comments,
Dave

[Spankbucket]

Hi Dave

That looks like a really exciting project...Good Luck and please post progress.

Does your rationale for your choice of scale imply that you are a garden railway enthusiast too and that, maybe, you have a layout with, maybe, a pond/pool/lake?

If so I'm really jealous!!!!

Cheers...Bernie

[Bierjunge]

I've decided to build a model of the Oklawaha paddle steamer "Okahumkee" on
1:32 scale. I've chosen this scale as it is compatible with LGB Garden RRing and
other G-scale products

Just to prevent you from doing mistakes:
G-scale garden railroads (such as LGB), called scale IIm in Europe, are 1:22.5, not 1:32!
1:32 would be scale I! Maybe your confusion originates from both using tracks with 45 mm gauge, but gauge I depicts 1435 mm standard gauge prototypes, whereas scale G or IIm depicts narrow gauge (esp. metre gauge) prototypes.
See http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Model_railway_scales for details.

So if your boat should match your G scale LGB garden railway, you should build it in 1:22.5 (or 1:24, which would be 1/2" scale), and not 1:32!

Moritz

[Dave R.]

Thanks Moritz, G scale is a real jungle! No out-door Railroad yet, Bernie, but I do have a small rock garden and goldfish pond. I've always wanted a garden railroad, maybe it's time. I found the "Hartland Locomotive Works", their 1/29, Nineteenth Century locomotives are beautiful and will scale nicely with the 1/32
Okahumkee and other St Johns boats I'd like to build.
I'm really jealous of the work you're doing on the "Presto", Bernie.
After considerable mathematical acrobatics, I got the plans printed to scale today...
btw, that's a really big cat, the drawing may appear smaller than scale.

Dave

[Spankbucket]

The 102nd use of a dead cat!!!!....paper weight for a paddler plan!!!!

[Dave R.]

It's not dead... it' just sleeping!

My bandsaw craped-out on me so production is a standstill.

While I work out my technical problems here's another unique
Florida paddle boat. This is the Peace River Phosphate Co.'s
tug, I believe it was made from a barge. (and my 1/48 model)

[Dave R.]

Well, I've replaced my old analog Futaba, rebooted my Ryobi band saw (it still
ain't right) and bought a Mk2 Foggy from MMB, so now I'm committed or should
be.
Dave

[Spankbucket]

Dave....it sounds like your going in the right direction!

I use 2.4Ghz and it's brilliant.

My Record 3-wheel band-saw is on the blink as, since one of it's drive wheel tyres broke and I did a botched repair, the blade just wont stay on!

Cheers...Bernie

[steamboatmodel]

Dave that is a very nice model, I searched and found this http://www.taplines.net/092006/chn01
Regards,
Gerald.

[Dave R.]

Well I've made progress.
Pictured is the foam core and the cover hull with electronics loosely fitted. The geared motor
turns, at speed, seventeen rev's per minute; the two batteries ballast the hull ( I will lay them on
their sides in practice ) giving 3/4 inch of free-board.
The MMB large variable speed FOGGY is more than I hoped for, it's spectacular!
I still need "sound", I'm familiar with the Harbor Models products, are there any others?

Thanks for the compliment, Gerald. I think that subject would make an excellent model
in very large scale with live steam; maybe after the Okahumkee.

[Dave R.]

She floats!
I painted the balsa covering with poly resin to water proof it and provide a surface suitable
for finishing.
It carries the two batteries level and with the planed 3/4 inch+ free-board. She seems to be much
more stable than I had hoped for.
Today I'll start work on the paddle-wheel; the prototype was eleven blades

I picked up some more passengers last night.

Dave

[Dave R.]

I took the extra effort and did the eleven spokes (especially, as the wheel doesn't show). It seems
reasonably semetric... or squarely asymmetric

[PeeWee]

that looks like the start of a good set of paddles.  if the paddles are not visible then your assumption can not be contradicted and must be valid.  i look forward to seeing the finished paddles

[Dave R.]

Here ya go, Ian.
At 25 RPM, she scoots along about as fast as a man could run (in scale) but that
leaves nothing for emergencies like wind or duck attack, further, I'm disappointed with the
splash factor! I'm going to cut the paddle faces down by half and triple the rpm. So it's
chain and sprockets... and/or a new motor... and more $$.

Dave

[derekwarner_decoy]

Don't be disappointed   Dave........but  ...before you reduce the paddle float surface area have a  & spend a few hours searching the PD threads on "paddle shaft speed"

You will find many references that an optimal shaft speed for a model paddler is approx 150 RPM....but also with the facility to slow this down via an electronic speed controller

So taking the current 25 RPM to ~~~~ 75 RPM may not be the best move....you also need to understand the motor/s current consumption relative to the amp/hour capacity on board

All of these points are a trade off of sorts  .....

Good luck & keep us posted with text & images.........Derek