PS Marchioness of Lorne 1891

[djcf]

Thanks, Geoff,

I don't like to give myself too tight a deadline (2011 paddler day!)... should have the "Marchioness" plus maybe A N Other hopefully!!

Not to sure about the titles, but I think Duke would be the higher rank...you can put the Duke in the water first

Anyway got a bit of work done this week, I have braced the saloon sides on the inside round the window openings with various sizes of plastruct, this gives me an individual pocket for each bit of glazing to fit into. also put in clear perspex braces, so they would be invisible through the windows. Quite pleased as the sides are sturdy now.

Still got to do the curved joining bits aft, where the saloon sides meet the saloon end. Will give some plasticard the hot water treatment & mould round a former.

Added a strip 2.5 x 6.5 plastruct to form waterway at edge of hull/deck. (the wooden deck will rest on this also.

Started a bit of the panelling effect on the rear end of saloon with various strip & half round section.

Next same process on fore saloon area.

A few pics of progress so far
Clark

[Eddy Matthews]

It's looking really good Clark I'm impressed!

You and Geoff have almost a year till the next paddler day, so I don't expect to see any excuses in 2011

With a bit of luck, Hans and the gang will be over from Switzerland/Germany, and Stuart will be back from Greece, so as long as the weather gods smile on us it should be a good show!

Having said that, the weather slowly improved throughout the day this year, and most models managed to get some on the water time... And as next year will be our 5th Paddler Day, lets try and make it into the best show yet!!

Regards
Eddy

[djcf]

Cheers Eddy,
Progress will (should!) be fairly steady now, and now giving some fore thought to sponson construction. She doesn't have too much on the prom deck; two deckhouses, one with bridge on top, and one funnel. However plenty of constructional problems to solve at the bow, as a large portion of the prom deck is open below and supported on stanchions. Thats why I started at the stern
Paddler day is the goal!

[djcf]

Hi PDs
 I have started making a few bits to support the curved front of the fore saloon. After a bit of trial & error I decided to use some clear perspex supports as I did for the sides (incidentally the perspex glues well with standard polystyrene cement without fogging). I find this method gives great strength to flimsy structures and is unobtrusive and light. The saloon front has another 10 windows plus a door in the middle.
 I like to do a bit of internal detail, but in this case, the ply bracing inside the hull is in the way. Will just paint this matt black to make it as unobtrusive as possible. Better to have a solid hull.
 Not very exciting but some of the bits for the curved front.
Clark

[djcf]

Hi all,

Managed to get the saloon front done, (minus the door in the middle). Need to get this area painted before fixing permanently as its pale pink with pale blue lining,  I don't fancy doing that in position
Have sent for some humbrol acrylic tinlets to mix up some colours
At least thats the last of 71 windows cut out
Some work on the foredeck area next.

Clark

[Eddy Matthews]

I'll bet your glad to see the back of all those windows Clark!

That's why I choose models that don't have too many windows - Life's too short!

Regards
Eddy

[derekwarner_decoy]

Hi PD's.....but the windows do look

True & Square x all 72 of them ....which is a great challenge & accomplishment ........ ......Derek

[djcf]

Hi  PDs
Some recent work on the model has been cutting out the hawse holes for the anchor chains, and some mooring rope holes in the forward bulwarks.
I have drawn onto the hull the water level (draft just a touch over 1 7/8"), thick white waterline and porthole positions. Due to access issues forward I have decided to use BECC decals for the portholes, rather than drill them out. Safer than having any leaking ports in an unfixable position.

Was thinking about using some 1/8" ply for sponson bases, faced with some obechi to for the belting strip round the outside. Just in the planning stage here because I need to make a section removable on each side for wheel/shaft removal/fitting.

Bought a can of Plastikote "Cameo pink" spray for the saloon sides, although still have to test it over Halfords primer in case it reacts!!

Will get some pics on soon
Clark

[djcf]

Hi all,

Have been and got myself a shiny new Dremmel, to replace my old machine. So tested this out by drilling/filing out four holes for the sponson supports. I used 10mm square obechi to go right through the hull, fore & aft of paddles. The yellow tape shows where the sponson base will be, under the supports. The supports are not glued in yet, will do a final measure to check all is in the right place. I think this will be quite solid & strong, hopefully!!
For the sponson bases themselves, I might try 1/8" obechi, with 1/16" ply skin top & bottom glued with 24 hour Araldite....will do a test piece first.
Will prob do forward and aft sponsons separately, as I want the middle piece (in front of the paddles) to be removeable for shaft/ paddle removal.
Last pic is a mock up to make sure the floats will be immersed enough, although I won't be using these wheels, but a set a few mm bigger.
cheers
Clark

[derekwarner_decoy]

Hi PD's....Clark....the method using two x one piece 10  mm square wooden structural members is the best method of construction, but could I suggest if weight or space is not an issue reinforce the structural members to the hull with some say 3 mm ply prior to epoxy resining to the hull

Another tip during construction is to position the hull as you have displayed below....

1. chicking for squareness etc....then add a few tack welds of super glue
2. invert the hull 90 degrees with sets of structural timber facing down......
3. mask up a temporary box to house your reinforcement ply piece
4. cast the expoy into the form work over the ply
5. add the angular supports between the structural timbers & the hull externals

Super strong construction....then cut  the unused middle sections out.....Derek 

[djcf]

Hi Derek,
As you suggest, I will add some reinforcement round that area, whilst keeping an eye on the weight. (Of the model, not myself  )

I do feel it is important that this area is strong.

[djcf]

Hi all,
Armed with a compass and some spanish curves, I managed to mark out then cut the sponson tops...these are just clamped in place at the moment, to check for fit.
As i mentioned the sponsons will be a sandwich of 1/8" obechi between 1/16 ply top and bottom, hope to get these glued up this week.
cheers
Clark

[Mercury]

Clark,

Very interested in seeing your sponsons progress. Your method is very similar to that which I used on my original Mercury 15 years ago. This time on my Waverley I've been trying to build the sponsons totally separately to the hull and then bolting them on. Sadly the curves of the hull are not easy to match and I'm having to botch it a bit. I'm not happy with the two attempts I've made so far so will follow your methodology with interest and may copy it.

Your build so far looks great - really looking forward to seeing the model on the water.

Regards,

Richard

[djcf]

Hi Richard,

I will get a bit more done tomorrow, on the port aft sponson, Thats my test piece, and if it all works out ok, will post pics of the others during build.
I have had a few ideas re sponson construction, settled on trying this first. Not sure yet exactly how to do the removeable bit of belting in front of the wheels, again I do have a few ideas.....the main things are I want the sponsons light, strong and access for wheel removal etc.

Glad its similar to your methods on Mercury...makes me think I'm heading in the right direction

all the best
Clark

[Talisman]

Hi Clark ,
I am really interested to see how you construct your Sponsons.
On my Jeanie I have used 1mm styrene top and bottom with a band of 4mm x 12mm obechie sandwiched between and sanded to shape around the outside edge and ribs at the paddle box and hull side.  Unfortunately i didn't take pics at the time of construction.. If you can imagine how an RC aircraft wing is constructed you will probably get the idea.
Looking at my Dad's Jupiter he used a solid piece of 6mm Ply .... but
Jupiter gets away with it ... he wasn't daft picking her as a model.
If he could see what I'm working on next ... lol
Regards,
Kim