Princess Elizabeth build...

[mjt60a]

 Because of he way the model opens for tramsportation, access to the battery and motors etc I can't make it this way or the rail capping wouldn't be supported (one end is attached to the loading platform) so Ive made something else instead.....
.....I'll see how it looks painted in the morning

[mjt60a]

by the way, comparing the two sets of pictures, I can see how even 1mm stanchions are actually much too thick at this scale but I find it difficult enough using the 1.5 tube, trying to do these with 0.8 (stanchions) and 0.5 (rails) would be beyond my skill and eyesight!

[mjt60a]

well, doesn't look too bad but I haven't glued any of the railings down so far and haven't ruled out 'james lane display models' stachions just yet...

[mjt60a]

I made and fitted the rail capping now, here's it on the ship....  not bad I suppose...

[mjt60a]

I made and fitted the rail capping now, here's it on the ship....

...oh yes, and the canvas! that was a bit of a pain in fact as once it's shaped over the horizontal rails it doesn't really want to bend evenly around the curve so it's as good as I could get it... 

[Sandy]

That looks really good.

What did you use for canvas?

[Tug--Kenny]

It looks very smart.

Ken

[mjt60a]

What I did was....

...every picture I've seen of this ship shows a canvas (?) sheet attatched to the railings over the front of the promenade deck. The PBM model has pre-shaped styrene for this and I like how it looks and wanted something similar-looking.
After two abortive attempts I settled on this....
Covered the railings with cooking foil and pressed it gently against them so the rails and stanchions show through a bit... cut a piece from an old ( not too old) shirt and ironed it smooth then trimmed it to a little bigger than is needed.
hold it in place over the foil using clothes pegs to start with and apply sanding sealer until the cloth is soaked through and lays in the depressions in the foil. allow to dry (once it's had sealer applied to a fairly large area, clothes pegs can be removed and it stays in position)
when it's dry to the touch remove the foil from the railings and attempt to remove the cloth, allow the 'inside' to complete drying (this causes it to roll up but it won't matter!) the cloth can then be trimmed to the required size without fraying and should 'fit' onto the railings. I left some 'tabs' on the top edge which can be bent over and glued to the bottom of the rail capping later.
I then painted the cloth matt white, as the sealer turned it a bit yellow and when dry, stitched the ends to the end stanchions with white cotton...
...all I have to do now is make the port side ones, then all the rest from behind the paddle drums - but those are more or less straight and without the canvas sheet
For the openng part of the rail capping I used strips of the foil used on the telegraphs with yellow lacquer over it to represent the brass ends

[mjt60a]

haven't started the other railings yet as it takes time and I have to go out soon, started on the promenade deck planking instead...

[djcf]

Coming together really nice, Mick. I have to ask what are the devices on the sponson houses between the portholes? I am guessing that they are some sort of air scoops for ventilation?
regards
Clark

[mjt60a]

I think they're a type of ventilator designed to suck air out as the wind flows over the cone shape, in a similar way to how an airbrush sucks paint out of the jar...
...the real ones are much shorter front to back though but I hadn't seen them up close when I made those - and I didn't find this picture until it was all painted!

[derekwarner_decoy]

  Mick........however I think they may work in reverse to the paint air brush venturi effect

1. air at constant volume & @ atmospheric pressure engages the point of the ventiliator cone
2. the air is subjected to an ever increasing cronical surface area & hence the pressure reduces
3. at the largest diameter of the cronical cone & hence the lowest external air pressure.....the air from within the structure again @ atmospheric pressure is drawn to the lower pressure void
4. naturally these units are totally bi-directional & consume ZERO energy over that of mother nature

All courtesy of Mr Benouli & his colleagues I suspect.........Derek 

[mjt60a]

you may well be right, I'm only guessing at their purpose based on the only type I have seen close up, on tattershall castle (before they were replaced with modern 'bathroom wall' type extractors). even then I'm assuming they suck air out by the shape and inside detail (also they were on the outside wall of the toilets!)
No photos as I didn't have a good camera but I made a number of sketches of various fittings, they looked like this;- first picture
an attempt to make those type vents for P.S Freshwater:- second picture
(also a pic of the type of vent I tried to make for the 'Liz' but on Brian Eatons' Medway Queen) third picture

[mjt60a]

...Now, back to the project...
started on the port side railings, in the picture can be seen the template which is drilled for the positions of the stanchions, I made a few 'adjustments' that's why there are arrows to some of the holes - the others are not used. This is fixed to the scrap chipboard and drilled through then removed. short bits of wire are stuck into the holes and the stanchions placed on them, then the template is secured with more bits of wire to hold them all upright before soldering the bottom rail in place.
the template was used for the starbd side first and turned over for the port side, the curved side fits into the drainage channel around the deck as it's also used to drill the holes in the deck and the underside of the rail capping....

[mjt60a]

I finished soldering the railings together at the weekend and have been working on the canvas covers...