Irish Royal Mail Steamer Connaught build

[Beeza]

Dear Stuart,

Looking in to see whether you've posted an IRMSC update is becoming a daily obsession.  It is quite the most astonishing piece of work.  I'm in awe.

Just one thing though.  With all that extra superstructure in place, shouldn't you be getting your assistant and the boat back in the water soon so that we can check out her trim once more?

With very best wishes

Beeza

[Stuart Badger]

Hi PDs!

Don't worry Beeza - she'll be getting her bottom wet again soon!

As it seems very quiet on the forum at the moment I thought (with Eddy's permission) I'd use up some bandwidth with a few more pictures!

Since the last post I have rigged the davit slew ropes, fitted and painted a few more figures, made and fixed the jackstaff and rerigged some of the funnel support chains that I wasn't happy with. I'm at the moment waiting for 24 coaling scuttle lids to dry before fixing them in the deck - (she must have used a few tons on the run to ireland!).
I am STILL waiting for the bits neccessary to enable me to finish the electro-mechanical bits - it really is frustrating - perhaps next week.
Any way we took her out of the workshop for a dust off and photo session as it is a nice sunny but windy day - and the wind blows the dust away rather than me just re-arranging it.

all the best

stuart - hope you like the pictures.

[waldenmodels]

She's gorgeous, Stuart! And according to my sources, the figure is 64 tons, one way :0

Cheers,

Oliver

[mjt60a]

EXcellent, really spectacular model!
..in the second photo there appears to be a 'terminator T1000' on the port side, changing into the image of the man opposite...   

[Stuart Badger]

Thanks All!

I'll be back........................... (with apologies to Arnie!)

All the best

stuart

[Stuart Badger]

Hi PDs!
Yesterday my brother, his wife and 8 year old nephews arrived for a visit. They brought me some Preiser figures as a present and I promised I would put them on Connaught and make a post here - so photos below!
I have fitted all of the coaling hatches - and the little group photographed is designed to illustrate the coaling method (they've obviously left it VERY late before sailing!)

Today I plan to get the feathering gear working and devise a method of mounting the star eccentric so that it is removeable and adjustable. Though with 2 eight year olds helping this may prove difficult! Once This is achieved  I can complete the wiring etc assuming the components arrive from the UK soon. I'm still debating about fitting lights - we'll see how I feel later.

All the best

Stuart

[marinemole]

Stuart
These little tableaux are certainly bringing the model even more alive. Hope the Captain makes sure that the deck is scrubbed immaculately clean after coaling is complete.

Andy

[Stuart Badger]

Thanks Andy and All and Hi PDs!

I spent most of taday working out how to rig the eccentric stub axle and feathering gear. I had tested the feathering gear out of the model but things are always different in situ.
The method I decided on in the end was a small stub axle assembly which retains the star by using a collar on the axle behind it. This is to ensure that there is alway an outward force on the eccentric to prevent it moving towards the paddle wheel and causing a lock up. Normally I put the pins on the float control arms and holes in the eccentric rods. With Connaught I have the pins on the eccentric rode and holes in the control arms. this was purely so that I could model the large brass bushes on the end of the eccentric rods.

Any way it all works but requires a little 'running in'.

The photos should explain the method. It's a bit cluttered around the wheels so you need to look carefully I'm afraid - I found it very difficult to get a clear shot!

All the best

stuart

[waldenmodels]

Ah. I hadn't given that step proper thought. With your kind permission, Stuart, I shall employ your method!

Cheers,

Oliver 

[Stuart Badger]

Hi PDs
the electronic components arrived from the UK on Friday - so I can start wiring things up. I have included the two emails I received from my friend Geoff regarding using one charger on multiple cells. I think that it might be useful to those who want to run lead acid batteries. Also attached is a PDF of the charging circuit diagram.

I had a couple of thoughts on things electrical that I thought might help, regarding the connection of the two motors and multiple lead acid batteries.

 

You mention in one of the posts that you had obtained a number of 6V gel accumulators, that you were intending to connect as series pairs (to give 12V), then connected in parallel to increase capacity.  I know that you were looking for a source of black smoke for the funnels, and I think you may just have found it!!! Connecting batteries in parallel is not the best idea: if the batteries have different states of charge, big currents will flow between them - think of the sparks when you connect the  car jump-leads.  You can increase the capacity, but you probably need to put some blocking diodes between the battery pairs

In the interests of conserving the battery voltage, you probably need to use Schottky diodes - suitable parts are available from CPC (1N5822) for about 30p each.  Adding another pair of diodes will allow charging in situ...


My other thought relates to connecting the two motors.  They're mechanically connected in parallel, I guess so as to increase the available torque.  If you connect them electrically in parallel, they may 'fight' each other - depending on how well-matched the motors are for speed/voltage ratio.  Might be better to connect them electrically in series, to form a sort of compound 24V motor, which would draw half the current of the parallel connected motors. 

 

Just a thought.  If you need help with obtaining components, let me know.

Geoff

How should I connect one battery charger to charge more than one battery?

 

Charging more than one battery, or battery pack, from a single charger, is something of a compromise and should be avoided if possible. It’s much better to use two smaller chargers, one for each battery. We also offer “bank" chargers which include several independent charging circuits. If the batteries are not equally discharged, that is if they support different loads, then it’s not possible to charge them optimally using one charger, because the timing of the stages of charging should be matched to the battery depth of discharge for optimal charging performance. But, this is often done, for example in a boat or RV/caravan application where there is a “starting" battery and a “house" battery, and it’s desired to charge both from a single battery charger. A common arrangement is to use a “diode splitter" to divide the charger output between the two batteries, while maintaining isolation between the batteries, so that, for example if the “house" battery gets discharged, the vehicle can still be started. Our chargers are designed to be connected directly to the battery, they will not operate correctly, if there is a diode splitter fitted between the charger and the battery, because the diode does not allow reverse current flow from the battery to the charger so the charger cannot measure the battery voltage accurately. To get around this, we suggest fitting a 1K Ohm, half watt, resistor across each of the diodes. This is a readily available component, and it will allow enough current to pass through the diode to allow the charger to operate normally. If more than one battery is connected, it’s advisable to try to make the lengths and thickness of the cable to each battery about the same so as to avoid unequal resistances. Even so, the charger will measure the battery voltage as halfway between the two actual voltages, if they are different, and so the charging will not be as optimal as it should be. This is a fundamental problem and the best solution is to fit a separate charger for each battery bank. Charging batteries of multiple cells, either in series or in parallel, to make a higher voltage or Amp-hour rating, is acceptable, providing the batteries are of the exact same type, capacity, and age, and are connected in series or parallel at all times so that there is no unequal load. A common error, is to charge two 12V batteries in series with a 24V charger, and then to “tap" a 12V supply from the centre connection, this always results in one battery overcharged and the other undercharged which shortens the life of both batteries, and so should be avoided. It’s much better to use two 12V chargers, if there is any load driven from the connection between the batteries.

All the best

stuart
 

[Stuart Badger]

Hi PDs!

The build is nearly complete! Today I made the charging circuit for the power supply (as shown in the previous post). I first made a PCB (plywood circuit board!) by epoxying a piece of copper shim to some plywood and milling out the circuit. I soldered up the components and also soldered some 8 BA bolts to the board for connection points for the motors, batteries and charger.

I have also been continuing with the tedious job of Connaught's rig. I have made up 12 shrouds, made the shackle collers for the masts and bowsprit, fitted the eyebolts for the fore and aft rigging and have put in place the lower of the pairs of deadeyes. On the base of the masts is a ferule which can be slid upwards to remove the masts while keeping the rigging complete to avoid re-rigging every time the model is to be sailed. This will also form the attachment for the boom rigging, flag hoists etc.

Finally to restore my sanity I have made some travelling trunks for the passangers from some scrap offcuts I had.

I aim to get Connaught on the water next weekend if all goes well on my next trip to Athens tomorrow.

All the best

stuart

[Eddy Matthews]

You've certainly been busy Stuart - Love the idea of the charging/power circuit, it will make things so much simpler when it comes to charging all those batteries!

Hope everything goes well in Athens tomorrow....

Regards
Eddy

[Stuart Badger]

Hi PDs and thanks Eddy!

Did a bit more to the foremast rig this afternoon.

All the best

stuart

[Stuart Badger]

Hi PDs!

Well after a bit of a break I'm back on track I think!

Today and yesterday I installed the radio and wired up the batteries/motor and Electronic speed controller. Everything works and after getting to grips with modern programmable radio and an ESC that seemed to have a mind of its own I now have forward and reverse at what seems an ideal speed and a means of steering.

The radio is accessed via the small and large rear deck skylight and the ESC via the rear grating on the turtle deck - So no need to delve into the model at the pond.

The wiring is, I admit a bit of a mess at the moment - I'll try and tidy it up later - but it is safe (I hope!).

Earlier in the build someone mentioned about damaging the wheels in the event of a snag with the torque from the motors. Well I'm pleased to report that the drive chain DOES act as a weak link and fails if the wheels lock for any reason (Like leaving a screwdriver to be grabbed by a paddle wheel off of the bench!).

Forecast for the next few days is for high winds but I should be able to stagger to the lake mid-week.

All the best

stuart

[Stuart Badger]

Hi PDs!
For those of you that truly appreciate the full majesty of the rigging on a Victorian paddle steamer - look away now! Well it's OK I suppose - but I do loath string, blocks, half hitches etc!

I have managed to get the foremast and boom fully rigged and now only have to complete the rear mast.
I have spent about 8 hours today just rigging the one mast. The most fiddly and frustrating part was all of the ropework to handle the boom.  My beautiful assistant came into the workshop with a cup of tea for me and was looking at my 'reference pile' on top of which was a picture of Connaught leaving Kingstown in 1860 " Why hasn't the real thing got those things on it?" She said. I checked the picture and = Guess what? The booms don't ever appear to have been fitted! I am at the moment contemplating taking up crochet work - RATS!

All the best

stuart