What paint to use on engines?

[smuttley]

Hi all,

I am new to building steam engines and just acquired a new lathe, I am at the stage were I would like to paint some flywheels, but have no clue what paint to use. I would also like to paint cylinders at one stage, so presume it will have to be heat proof.

I have searched the threads, but can not find any that covers this in detail,

Regards

Steve

[derekwarner_decoy]

Hi PD.s......Steve ..we have a few issues here

1) Brass/bronze material machines beautifully . but  paint will not stick to a smooth surface finish

2) bogstandard has pickiling fluid for post soldering activities....this also tends to lightly etch the metal surface

3) it is important to use a primer coat....here in OZ I find the most economical road is to go to an automotive supply house & check out the range of high temperature motor engine aerosol spray packs....you know...the one's for $10.00 for 375 gms ...naturally primer is also available - these same HT paints recommend an oven bake post painting @ 200 degrees F for a superior chemical resistance

4) my experience when painting the boilersteam discharge needle valve body with RED standard Humbrol enamel was that the paint blackened after two boiler steams

5) Tis a real pity that plain old BOTTLE Green is not available in the HT range of product  .......Derek
 

[smuttley]

Thanks Derek,

Will the Humbrol enamel be ok for flywheels and none heated parts? I will nip down to the auto shop tomorow and see what they have for the hot side,

Regards

Steve

[derekwarner_decoy]

OK PD's here are a few rough calculations in OZ $... Steve .....

1) I pay $3.00 AUD for a 15 ml pot of Humbrol enamel
2) I pay $10.00 AUD for a 375 gm aersol spray can

So if we consider

1) paint with an SG of 1.0 we end up with = $3.00 divided by 15 = 0.2 $ per unit
2) paint with an SG of 1.0 we end up with = $10.00 divided by 375 = 0.026 $ per unit

Need I say more?.................... ...........Derek

[bogstandard]

I totally agree with Derek on the humbrol enamel, especially in the lighter usual colours for model steam, red, maroon or green, they soon get a dark sheen on them. But I have found that a dark blue stays almost at the same colour, and doesn't look out of place. In fact I used it on my puffin for over ten years, and it still has the original coat on it. But really for max effect, you cannot beat black paintwork and polished brass, a classic and regal combination.

Sperex do a range of coloured car engine sprays that are usually good for for up to 600 deg F. I have used that on copper boilers to very good effect, but only in satin black.

Painting brass is a real PITA, even with a blasted or etched finish. It will chip or peel at the first opportunity it gets. Bronze on the other hand (what most steam fittings should be made of) I have no trouble with, except for the dark colour change. Maybe it has something to do with the higher copper or lower zinc content.
I have a friend who can get consistent sticking results on brass with a light dusting of car etch primer, but I have always been unsuccessful. Maybe I was using too heavy a coat, or just maybe he is holding back on a secret technique bit.

John

[smuttley]

Cost is not a big factor, but if one is just as good as the other, then why not save a little. Down the shops I go............

I will show the results of the paint job when done. I have made a rig for making spoked flywheels (or any wheel) and will put a thread up to show how I did it, and hopefully with a new paint job to match,

Regards
Steve

[andy]

Engine paint? I would look for a paint from Ferrari. engine coatings.

But normally I prefer polished metal natural colours.

Andreas