Simple 'spiderweb' paddlewheels

[Barrie]

Hi Mick,

Those wheels look very similar to the ones designed by Ricky Webb for his Princess Elizabeth model. I made mine from 1.5mm sheet and had some problems with rigidity when cutting the inner holes - your 2mm looks sturdier.
Maybe I'll have another go with 2mm as I'm not happy with what I've got!

Barrie

[ijig]

Hope this pic comes thru. Made with welding rod.

[ijig]

trying to add attachment again

[derekwarner_decoy]

Hi PD's - [ijig] - looks interesting, what diameter is the brass welding/brasing wire :?: & what is the approx major diameter of the wheels  :arrow:   :?:

The reason I ask is that I have a set of partially completed brass wheels & the float support leg members [similar in with your design where there is no final major diameter ring] are 1/16" diameter & I have concerns of strength - Derek

[ijig]

Hi Derek
The rod is 1/16 Brass. I have built a jig to set it up in.The jig is for 8 or 16 paddles.Any diameter can be done with this jig. I do not put mine in the water. However they should be strong enough to supply power. The rings are made of the same rod ,which I form around pipe.Everything is soldered together. The center hub is made from heavy copper sheet. I do have 4 or 5 electrically driven models that work fine. I  just am not interested in sailing them. I made the jig on a router table. I just like to take on challenges. Like the smoke generator I made from the auto lighter. I posted it in that area. If I can help let me know!

[scrollsaw]

have just finished the wheels for our club boat they are now ready for painting yet more days work thought you all might be interested for those thinking of making a pair their are 262 parts in this pair

[Eddy Matthews]

Nicely done John, which boat are they for?

[scrollsaw]

hi Eddy thanks they are for the PS Talisman    
       john

[derekwarner_decoy]

Hi PD's &  beautiful work John  :kewl

1)  do I see nylon bushes supporting the paddle blade support swivel arms?
2) are the paddle blades aluminium?
3) with all bolted construction, are the rims [wheel discs] also aluminium? - regards Derek

Oh BTW, is this why you were christened you 'scrollsaw'  

[ijig]

Derek
The wheels are 6.5 in in diam. 1/16 " brazing rod. Another ring could be put on if desired.  Good looking wheels SCROLLSAW but I don't have the patience for that many parts! But their sharp!

[scrollsaw]

hi Derek
              Thank you and i was not named  scrollsaw  but i did scrollsaw work
as a craft making pictures to sell do you fancy sitting cutting out for 8hrs a day sometimes with up to 500 cutouts per 1 pic.
 
 1) no nylon but brass bushes soldered to rim
 2) no  steel bar 1" x 3/32"
 3) yet again no 1/16" steel plate this were chain drilled and filed to shape as i had no steel cutting blades left

the feathering system is all brass with arms filed up

regards John

[Bill Hudson]

Being endowed with lathes and milling machines cutting circles are easy for me.  However my short time on this forum leads me to assume many of you do not have lathes or milling machines.  (have patience with me, this in not a gloat   :lol: ).  My guess is that most of you do have a drill press of some sort?  :?   When I first started building models (many years ago I'm 74 now) I only had a cheap little drill press.  At that time I was building model carriages.  I used my drill press as a lathe, milling machine, router and even a fine cutting table saw.  

Try making a pin table to mount on your drill stand table.  A nice piece of plywood with a pin located in the center.  Next find another piece of thin ply a bit larger, square, than the wheel rim you are making.  Also cut the square (styrene, thin metal or what ever material you  plan to use for the wheel) the same size.  On one (top) sheet locate the center and scribe the inside and outside diameter of you wheel.   Mount it on the ply with double stick masking tape. You can layer all your blanks on one base.  Locate the  center and drill to fit the pin.  Now  mount the sandwich on the base with the pin.   Mount a carbide straight burr in the drill chuck.  Now adjust the table and base so until the burr cuts to the outside of the line. Clamp the table down and slowly feed the burr in until sawdust shows, lock the drill press quill.  Carefully rotate the sandwich around until the circle is cut.  I have found cutting the outside first works best then cut the inside.

Note:  I some times find a couple of flat head sheet metal screws in the wast areas help hold the sandwich together.   :lol:  :luck

[Eddy Matthews]

A very neat idea Bill, thanks for sharing it....

Does anyone else have any little tips that would help the rest of us mere mortals when it comes to building our models?