P.S. Waverley --- My Build

[derekwarner_decoy]

Hi PD's....& yes Ken we  can see in .jpg 146 what looks to be a model vehicle toothed belt drive differential housed in an ABS plastic case

These units usually feature a single row ball race on either side & an internal PEG drive through shaft pin for positive drive etc

The only offering would be another ball race in either side of the housing to offer support against the toothed belt tension

You may also need to consider a method of locking the shaft from atwart ships float & also the issue we discussed of water entry via the original kit paddle shaft bronze bushings

Looking forward to the next postings ............Derek

[Eddy Matthews]

It's getting very close for some on the water testing Ken.... Looking good!

Eddy

[sandystrone]

Ken,
all my paddle blades are made in soft aluminium because if I hit anything, the aluminium gives before any of the wheel components gets damaged.
The worst thing on our lake for paddlers is lollipop sticks especially if one gets up inside the box as has happened in the past!                 Sandy

[Tug--Kenny]

 Hi PD's,

The solid toothed wheels are commercial ones built of steel and so heavy that I had to drill holes sideways through them to get the weight down. The set of two wheels and one belt costs over £25, and I have two sets !!!  (and one destroyed wheel in the bin). These came with 3mm holes and had to be drilled out to 6mm for the shaft of solid brass using several drills to graduate up to size. A hole was then drilled through them and the shaft to locate a sheer type of pin, in case of seizure from foreign objects.

The motor was screwed to the wooden block which had been epoxied to the the hull previously. The extra small wheel from the spare set was fitted in the drive belt line, on bearings and a tensioning device was devised.

The paddles were secured to the shafts and checked for free running and a variable voltage was applied to the motor.

My God, what a noise when the 50/1 ratio motor was started up. The whines and drumming sounds and vibrations were unbelievable.

I then had a rethink on the securing system and figured I need some rubber mounting blocks here. When held in the hand, the motor sound is just a quiet hum of gears, as they have been greased.

I mounted the motor on to solid rubber and found the noise was transmitted through the screws to the wooden block, so I looked for a way to isolate the screws from anything solid, but rubber on rubber was a bit wobbly for the forces involved. Time for another rethink.

Another day tomorrow ............. 

[Eddy Matthews]

Ken, remember that geared motors always sound aweful when running inside a hull on "dry land". Once on the water, it quietens things down considerably, but a geared motor will always be more noisy than a direct drive.

Sandy, I'd thought the aluminium floats were simply to save weight, I hadn't considered them as a "safety feature", but now you've mentioned it, it makes sense!

Eddy

[Tug--Kenny]

The motor has finally been mounted into a box of rubber. At the moment, I am using rubber bands to hold it in place, but hope to go for a type of rubber clip. The drive belt has been changed for a shorter one to eliminate the tension wheel system recently built, so this involved moving the motor nearer the shaft. I am leaving it pending at the moment as it’s taken a lot of my time and thoughts and I wanted to get on with another section.  (148).
 
I have finished the new paddle blades and secured it all with Loc tight. (147) and the next project involved fitting the bearings for the feathering wheels. To this end I have fitted 5mm box brass strip across them and secured it to wooden blocks inside the cover. This will make removing the wheels a lot easier, should the need arise. (149)

The rear cabin was then covered in thin strips of mahogany, to simulate wood planking, and to make the window openings all parallel and inline. The roof was sanded down, as I didn’t like the finish. I then re stained with a lighter pine colour. It’s come out a little blotchy so further thoughts are need here. I may have to plank it with real wood strips if I’ve got the time.

I then moved on to the fun side of the build by fitting sliding doors to the rear cabin. Pictures (150) (151) shows them open and closed.

Picture 147 also shows my new stand for her.  The mouse mat in the centre was purchased off Ebay and glued into position.

[Tug--Kenny]

Today was very productive. First we cut up some chair side pieces and filled them with matchsticks. (152) (153).   When the glue dries, we will sand them smooth and finish off the edges.

The life saver raft seats were sprayed dark brown and ten holes were drilled around the side ready for the 200 life rings to be fitted. These rings were made of copper wire, all hand made to shape as per the pie in the box. (154) (155).

That was 11 hour’s which passed quite quick. Mind you, the sun came out for one of them, so I sat out in it, to get a tan !!! Might have tomorrow off, if this weather keeps up.

[Eddy Matthews]

A few boring repetitive jobs Ken, but the good bit comes when you start adding all those pieces to the model...... Then all the work pays off as the model starts to come to life!

Regards
Eddy

[mjt60a]

just a quick picture which may or may not be of interest, this is the area just behind the sliding doors showing the 'wood panelling' which is painted onto the metal (aluminium?). I certainly wouldn't be able to recreate it and would also use veneer instead!

[andy]

Hope, this picture is a real one and no model?

Andy

[mjt60a]

no, that's the real one, I don't think I could build that much detail into a model!
just one thing, the 'life rings' around the seats (and I do hate to be critical) are actually loops of rope on the real thing....

[mjt60a]

...this is how I attempted to recreate them on my boat (Menna/Alumchine - pictures I've found show only flat 'rafts' without the backrest) I used some elasticated cotton thread available from sewing suppliers (woolworths?) as it looked more like rope than anything else I had at the time, it is just pushed and glued into holes in the raft, I didn't try to drill vertically through a horizontal strip like on the waverley ones, my rafts are not even planked, I just drew lines with a ballpoint pen but I think it should look OK unless closely inspected!

[Tug--Kenny]

Thanks for the pictures of the seats, Mick. What super detail.

I plan to use white 'rope' between the eyelets, but looking at your picture they seem a little large in diameter. Also, I have used too dark a Brown for the colour, so it's off to the shop for a lighter version and do it all again.

I am not pleased with the cabin construction. I was compounding the errors by trying to improve on a bad design. To this end I have started building 'Both' new cabins from thinner plywood. I must say that it's coming out better than expected, and I'm all fired up with enthusiasm again. (156) (157) (158)

I spent 10 hours yesterday cutting all the square windows and doors out, and have stained the timber 'Before' gluing it together this time, and, although I say it myself, it's beginning to look the part, Yippee !!.  I might even scribe the black lines around the doors, just like your picture. How far, is going too far??  Because of the scale, I have already reduced the number of planks on the seats. I don't want to get too bogged down with the tiny details, because I'm running out of sailing time.

[Eddy Matthews]

Hi Ken,

Not only a great improvement with the cabins, but it will also help to reduce weight, which can only be a good thing!

How many of us have built something, only to think of a better way of doing it after the event - And then say dammit, I'm not doing all that again!! Your to be congratulated for taking the time to get it right 

Eddy

[Tug--Kenny]

Thanks, Eddy, I do feel better.

Yes, you know when something 'ain't right' and it does eat into you, so keep the comments coming, everyone. I want to make this one 'shine'   

ken