P.S. Waverley --- My Build

[Tug--Kenny]

It was then out with my favourite paint, the old red oxide undercoat. This was gently sprayed on throughout the day, to gradually build up a smooth coat with no runs. (121)
 
The next day I partially assembled the bits and pieces to get an idea what she might look like, and also continue with a few more movie shots to be added to the film of her. (122) (123) (124)

I am presently working on the paddles, and lining them up to fit the blade moving mechanism, so as to be feathering. I notice that there are a few problems here and have given up for the day. 

Primarily, I’ve decided the blades could be a few millimetres wider so as to catch as much water as possible. This now involves taking them apart and making new blades. A good job I didn’t loc-tight all the screws, methinks. I’ve only used it on the blades so far.

 I also have the problem of where to secure the bearing for the feathering mechanism. If I secure it to the paddle boxes, then there is a risk of vibration shaking then from the hull. I plan to fit a brass strip to the hull and bring it out along the outside edge of the wheels. This would have to be removable to allow the wheels to be fitted and removed, if desired.
 
This model is a million problems as there are no detailed plans to work to, and it’s all scratch build. Great fun. We shall overcome.

[Eddy Matthews]

It's really starting to look like Waverley now Ken... Obviously there's still a lot to do, but my suggestion would be to fit the motors and radio gear and give it a test on the water. At least then it gives you a chance to make any modifications before it becomes impossible to alter. You can simply cover all the windows and portholes with some tape for a short test.... The good bit is you eventually get to see it sailing, which should also inspire you - As if you need it!! 

Regards
Eddy

[mjt60a]

....I had acquired 70, 6mm plastic portholes and laid them on a sheet of plastic. I then mixed up some clear epoxy and spoon fed a drop into each hole and left overnight. Two days later, the stuff had not set, so I set about scraping it back out and ruined them, so they are now in the bin....

Ah, sorry about that, if I'd known you were going to attempt making some I would have gone into more detail about how I made mine...
this stuff generates quite a lot of heat as it sets and will usually melt plastic parts (as I found out to my cost) so I only use it in metal portholes!
very small quantities of regular casting resin don't set no matter how much hardener is used, you have to use a resin designed for 'tiny' castings. I used Trylon EM400PA for mine - http://www.trylon.co.uk/products.asp?cid=6&sid=20 - once opened it doesn't keep very long (compared to, say, resin for use with fibreglass mat) so I get the smallest quantity I can and usually use a quarter of it at best (the rest turns to jelly and is wasted - and it's not cheap!), but the hardener (catalyst) keeps for ever, I still have the first and only bottle of it I ever bought.
even when set I find the surface, if it's left exposed to the air, remains sticky for months (don't know why, it says it 'always dries tack-free' on the specs but maybe casting such items are asking a lot of it!) that's why I lay a small piece of clear whatever-it's-called (plastic used for 'blister packs') on top of each porthole. The alternative I suppose would be to fill them to a 'dome' of resin on top which can be sanded off and polished, but my way saves time    

[Tug--Kenny]

Thank you Eddy. yes, it's taking shape.  I love putting the other parts on temporarily, it's so encouraging.     Makes the slog worth it.

I've converted to brass portholes (in my mind), so will be sourcing them soon. When they are in it will be like you say, watertight. I have my kiddies paddling pool ready for more float tests.

What a learning curve, mjt.  Didn't know much about epoxy, and it all looked simple.   I wondered why I had to move the spray can lid outside the workshop because it was burning my fingers. 

Ken

 

[Eddy Matthews]

I've converted to brass portholes (in my mind), so will be sourcing them soon. When they are in it will be like you say, watertight. I have my kiddies paddling pool ready for more float tests.

One of the problems with paddlers is their tendency to heel over in a turn, and not come back upright when the rudder is centered - So I would seriously suggest you get it on a piece of open water and try a few turns to check stability. Things can often look fine when the model is sitting stationary, or simply moving in a straight line..... I know from experience!!

Just pick a calm day, and be gentle with the rudder until you see how it performs - shallow water is best so a rescue can be done if the worst happens!!

Regards
Eddy

[Tug--Kenny]

I must admit this is the one thing that worries me about paddlers. To this end, I have made the spaces in the boxes airtight, each side of the wheel. Hopefully this will create a little bouyancy should they dip in the water. 

ken

[Tug--Kenny]

The bow section was queried by a few of you. Mine has a curve towards the top, and this is shown on picture.  (125)

The actual ship shows a straight bow all the way upwards.  See picture.  (126)

Today was spent sanding it down and re spraying and she now looks like this.  (127)  I’ve placed a steel rule against her and she looks the Biz.

 I have, however, noticed that the top section does not seem to go back far enough, compared with the real ship. It does conform to the drawings though. What do you think I should do ?

[Eddy Matthews]

Personally I'd cut off the fibreglass bulwark and replace it with some 1/32" ply to give the correct length, but perhaps the bulwark was extended when she was rebuilt? Hopefully someone with more knowledge of her than me can answer that?

It all depends on how accurate you want it to be - I doubt that anyone would actually notice when the model is completed anyway....

Regards
Eddy

[Tug--Kenny]

Thanks Eddy, the original hull did not have this section built on to the hull. I had to do this myself. That's why it looks so wrong. 

I will be extending it to match the original ship, rather than faithfully following the drawings.

[Eddy Matthews]

The strange thing is that even the slightest error will stand out like a sore thumb to you, but 99.9% of people will never notice the errors. So at the end of the day it's down to you how much time you want to put into it to get everything just so...

That's the downside of choosing such a well known ship - that there are more people who might just notice the mistakes 

Eddy

[Tug--Kenny]

I've been quiet for a few days as I have been working on this alteration.

Isn't it upsetting when you have to cut apart your work?  I've removed the pointy bit and cleaned back the top deck line. The new section was made from plastic card, by glueing four sheets together and cutting to size. This assembly was repositioned and clamped in with epoxy resin and left to set. I've just removed the clamps and it looks much better today. Pictures to follow.

My new portholes have arrived. These will replace the ruined plastic ones and are made of brass and look very smart indeed. They come complete with window glass, so there's a saving on detail work.  .  I shall be fitting them after the painting of the hull so as not to ruin the appearance.

I'm also re-working the paddle blades soon and have to select a suitable material. The recommendation was originally mahogany strips, but this was changed to plastic.  I thought mine were a bit bulky, so were sanded down, and now are not wide (deep) enough.

Ideally, I would like brass sheet, which could be curved at the ends to make an effective drag. This might improve the pulling power at slow revs., so I'm off to the shops to see what's available.

Ken

[Tug--Kenny]

The new front piece has dried out nice and firm and was sanded down flat to the hull. The anchor chain holes were then reamed out to match each side. (128). 

My word isn’t brass expensive!!   Today I bought a piece to make the rudder with. (This piece was five times as long as I needed.) I’ve also obtained some pipes which fit snugly in each other, to be used for the rudder post and shaft.

I flattened one end and cut two pieces of sheet brass and curved them to fit around the flattened end of the tube. Holes were drilled and the insides edges were roughed up ready for the epoxy filling. It was then bolted and clamped together and left overnight to set. (129)

I then re sprayed the hull again in red oxide, so now I back to where I was a few days ago. (130)

[Eddy Matthews]

I know your going to hate this Ken.... But I still think the bow bulwarks are too short. If you look at the following images, 126 shows the real ships bow (I've rotated the image so it's the same way round as your photos), 127 shows how your bulwarks looked originally, and then 130 shows how they are now.....

I hope you can clearly see that it's still not right.

[Tug--Kenny]

The new size was calculated by using the proportions of the real ship on one of my many photos. I agree that it still looks wrong and will try again (3rd time lucky)

You don't suppose they actually altered the real ship at some time ??  There is also a query with the number of portholes.  My picture shows 6 before you get to the square windows, so I've added an extra one. I shall fill it in and revert back to 5, so that the curve drop lines up between the first two. 

ken

[Eddy Matthews]

The number, and the position of the portholes, certainly changed throughout her life Ken - This is clear if you study photos from known years.

Wether or not the bulwarks were modified in length is open to arguement I feel.....

I'm off to bed now before I depress you any more! 

Eddy