P.S. Waverley --- My Build

[Tug--Kenny]

I then moved on to the paddle boxes and scrapped the two wooden versions I was building, all in the name of lightness. I have gone over to plastic and have made the top and bottom walkways for both sides and glued the on. (97) (98) (99)

This is the latest position at the moment, so I am taking a break for a week.    (100)

Thanks for listening

Ken

[Eddy Matthews]

A heck of a lot of work done in a very short time Ken -  So you probably need a break for a while now

It certainly is starting to come together and look the part now, a superb job...... Just remember September 21st is getting closer 

Eddy

[Channel]

Must be nice being retired Kenny!

Enjoy Poole!

Chris

[mjt60a]

Did anyone notice that, before the new 'rivetted' funnels, waverleys forward funnel leaned back at a noticeably different angle compared to the aft one!

[Channel]

Which boiler change led to the funnels going back wrongly ? Post 1975 ?

Chris

[mjt60a]

I couldn't say, I first saw waverley in 1986 and they were like that then. They were welded funnels and I'd read somewhere that the forward one had been fitted first (to replace an older welded one) as the original was the more rusted of the two, then the aft one was replaced the following year - and the replacement had been built 'not quite the same'

[mjt60a]

I've been looking for a photo showing the funnels and how (where, exactly) they attach to the bases (fiddleys?) but couldn't find the disc at the moment. However, here's a pic of my plans and as I suspected, the forward funnel sits at the front of its eliptical base and the aft one at the rear of its base (it says the plan is of the 1982 layout but I don't think this detail has ever changed)
**found one... the photo shows what I mean. not shown on the (my) plans are the hatches in the 'unused' part of the funnel bases

[Daryl]

According to the book I have on her history, one of the funnels was replaced during one of her many re-fits, I can't remember which one, but the replacement funnel was made of a thicker gauge metal, making it heavier. The result was the deck sank slightly resulting one of the funnels having a greater rake than the other one.

It all sounds a bit odd, but the book was written and published by the trust which owns her so I can only assume the information in there is correct.

Daryl

[sandystrone]

This photo I took in 1973 shows the angles of the funnels.

[sandystrone]

Is this photo any help, Ken

[Tug--Kenny]

I'm back from the old holidays.

Thank you for the pictures of the funnels, Sandy. I might make the front one on a pivot to operate either parallel or tilted back, depending on where I am.


I went into Westbourne Models for £160 worth of gear and there seems to be some confusion as to the scale of my Waverley. I assumed it was 1/48 as the model is 59 inches long. Can anyone confirm this please.

I was buying portholes and used the measurement from my ships plans of the circles shown. This diameter is  7mm  and hopefully is the hole size for the portholes. There would then be an outside diameter of the ring around the glass, thus making them appear larger. As they only had 8mm & 10mm & 12mm in stock, these were bought to try on the model.
It was quoted that at my scale, some of the portholes would be 2 foot across !! 

This also got me concerned when it came to some companionways. Mine measure 20mm wide, but the available ones looked awful chunky ?  so I've bought some different sizes to compare with the hull when I got home.

We should be alright with motor, as I've selected an MFA type with gear reduction of 50-1.

I notice the prices have increased with model gear lately and it's getting a bit much. I shall be following the 'scratch' route a bit more in the future. methinks !!

Must get on with the build. Thanks for listening.

Ken




 

[mjt60a]

my method for portholes is this; buy some brass tube of the correct size and cut lots of pieces using a tube cutter (special miniature one, proops do them) then file the ends flat (ie de-burr them) then place them on a tray made of clear plastic type stuff as used for packaging for  asda/morrisons/tesco apple turnovers (indeed, most electrical components supplied in 'blister packs' such as video connections etc).... also cut enough small squares of the same plastic to cover each porthole individually.
purchase a can of clear casting resin and some hardener and mix a small amount, pour some into each porthole, allowing it to set and seal the brass rings to the plastic. then mix up some more and fill each one until the resin forms a 'dome' on top. allow time for the air bubbles to escape before placing a square of plastic on each porthole and pressing it down so it's in contact with the brass (unfortunately I don't think I have any photos of this process but it's fairly straightforward..)
when the resin is set HARD (about 2 days later) peel off the plastic squares and remove the portholes from the tray. chip away any excess resin from the outsides with a stanley knife and they're ready to use!
I'd now push them into holes drilled to take the brass tube so they're flush with the hull and run araldite all around the inside (of the hull) edges of the portholes to ensure a watertight seal.
rivets can be simulated by drilling 8 holes around the porthole-hole and araldite pieces of rod into them, this can be filed almost to nothing before painting and THEN adding the portholes.
For portholes on superstructure (where the flange is outside the ship) I use paper thin styrene sheet. Cut out a disc about 2mm radius larger than the porthole (use a piece of brass tube which has been sharpened by filing, press into the styrene on a base of scrap balsa or an old eraser) then cut a hole in the centre to form a ring (use a piece of the same tube used for the portholes) simulate rivets by pressing a centrepunch into the back of the styrene ring and glue onto the ship with the raised rivets facing out. Paint and then add the portholes.
Here's a couple of pics of the finished result...

[Eddy Matthews]

Your hull is definately 1/48 scale Ken - or as near as makes no difference.... Waverley is 240 feet long, so 240/48 = 5 feet (or 60").

Regards
Eddy

[derekwarner_decoy]

Hi PD's....Ken...some model supplier manufacturers quote the glass diameter as the porthole size & some offer the outer bezel diameter as the size...which is pretty bl~~dy    stupid

Some manufacturers quote complete with a glass disk....but how could Super Glu melt glass? 

Waverley has so many portholes....they need to be totally uniform to look the part

One of the confusing points about model scale is.......a typical hand rail staunchen post @ 1:48 for a river vessel will be of totally different height to a 1:48 scale ocean vessel

Try the 'Robbe' brand...I think you will find the real diameter porthole sizing you are after also real glass disks & negate the nominated scale

You are doing a great build - Derek

[derekwarner_decoy]

Hi PD's...just going back one step  ...with Waverley having so many portholes on near waterline by splash  ...who would want the vessels watertight integrity left to SUPERGLOOED glass disks in brass frames...or brass porthole frames secured to the hull in a similar manner?