P.S. Waverley --- My Build

[Tug--Kenny]

I don't seem to get allergic to materials, so hopefully all will be well. I shall think about using that stack of plastic gloves from the local garage next time.

My supply of epoxy is the non smelling type used by real ship repairers and takes ages to set, but is really effective.

Glad to have spurred you on with some building. There's nothing like it, you know. No Boss, no clocking in, tea on demand, and sunbathing when tiredness takes over. 

Ken

[derekwarner_decoy]

Hi PD's........& Ken says......

and sunbathing when tiredness takes over. 

 ....Ken..... ..where would you find sunshine in Wales?

Just joking ....keep up the good work & postings....there are many around our great big PD world that love to read & view the build & progress 

[Tug--Kenny]

Thanks Derek for your kind comments.

Yes, the sun came out yesterday. I had to go outside and sample it. (even took my 'longjohns' off)   

It's great when you look forward to going in the shed. So much to do, and so little time eh!!

Ken

[derekwarner_decoy]

Hi PD's..... ...Ken ...in snap 36 we see 3 x 12 Volt gel cells......

a) are these to be used in powering the vessel?
b) good ballast when laid flat as we see in snap 37
c) Eddy mentions 'keep the weight down'  ...which is valid......but in the end we may need more ballast 

d) does the hull manufacturer provide a nominated total model displacement?
e) do you have a planned drive system?.....tell us more !!!!!!!!!!!

PS.... this was the sunshine in OZ today ... being the QEII birthday long weekend

[Walter Snowdon]

Thanks for the continuing build Ken.Much apreciated.                     dont worry about web space- detailed builds like yours are what the site is all about. keep up the good work. Gosh, those wheels look much better without the rims!. regards, walter.

[Tug--Kenny]

Hi Derek

The batteries are part of a consignment I recently obtained from an alarm company. They change them regardless on annual services and have trouble disposing of them, so they tend to give them away. 

I am concerned about the weight problem, so I shall be inflating my toy swimming pool today for a float test. These batteries are indeed great for ballast, so I have fitted a compartment in ready for them.

Glad you like my 'rimless' version, Walter. There is obviously more technology from the old days that I don't know about. The fitting of the paddle blades was a nightmare. I now wish I had made the blades to protrude further out than they are. It doesn't look like the scoop of water will be large enough for a bit of power to get her moving well. We shall see, as they say. ump! The nuts are glued on now.

Must go, that damn sun has come out again.   

ken

[Tug--Kenny]

The pool is inflated and filled and we're ready to go.

Today I placed the 'valuable project' into the water and she floated.   I then started ballasting her until she came down to marks

Unfortunately, I forgot there was portholes very low down and went to fetch some batteries. When I returned the ship was at the bottom of the pool.  .

The ship was dried out and the portholes were taped over and we tried again. I am pleased to report that she will take a total ballast of 7 Kilo, which was two and a half  7 A.hr batteries. Very impressive, as I can run her on one large battery and have all the extras I was planning on.  (40) (43)

I noticed that the paddle wheel were not very low in the water, and would like to ask if you think I should fit them lower down please.  I have placed a twig against them to show the water height.(41) (42)

[Tug--Kenny]

It was then off to the workshop to design a bench seat, as I need a large number of these so I had to find the simple way of mass producing them.
here are a few samples made from plastic.  (47)  till my wife said 'why don't you make them of wood'

[Tug--Kenny]

While this was going on. I had to make the extra pointy bit on the Bow, as it was not produced on the original Hull. I made plastic strips and secured them around the pointy bit and then filled it with car repair paste, which 'went off' in 6 minutes. I'll see what it sands down like tomorrow. (45) (46)

Back to the benches...  Once we had got the design in our head it was 'off and running'. I made about 23 before I called it a day. (44) ....back to the beer time.

[derekwarner_decoy]

Hi PD's....& Ken asks.....

 noticed that the paddle wheel were not very low in the water

 ...this is a tough question Ken

1) One would have thought that with the hull & wheel set by the one manufacturer  ..the wheel shaft axis should be in the correct location

2) A Forum search for "wheel depth in water" will reveal hundreds of comments.....although none are really definitive

3) The Ivor Bittle WEB site makes reference in calculations and althought correct is more academic ........than visual scale

4) Many older plans indicate one blade fully immersed by say + 20% of the blade height @ the 6.0 o'clock position....plus one blade entering & one blade exiting the water by say 20% of blade immersion

5) Try looking a the OZ "Float a Boat" WEB site & scroll to the paddler sections...you will see what I mean..although I acknowledge these OZ paddlers were river craft & Waverley was designed for deep sea work

6) There are also other comments in the Forum referencing TOO deeper blade immersion & the results of this

So  about all of this Ken.....I would be inclined to suggest maintaining the manufacturers wheel float sizings & wheel shaft axis....then final tuning could be accomplished via the floats if needed...........

[Tug--Kenny]

Hi Derek.

I'm inclined to agree with you, although the plans are copies of the original Waverley design at half scale, and not model build plans.

I have taken off measurements and transferred them to my model, so in effect, copying the proper ship. This is where they have their drive shaft, so it seems to be right. When the windows are in, I can ballast down, like you suggest to ensure a paddle and a half are submerged.

I'm planning the rudder next, as I have to totally construct it myself. I'm going for a balanced rudder with a brass each side of the post, as this was advised as the best solution.

Ken

[derekwarner_decoy]

Evening PD's..... I understand it may sound ...Ken...but have you back checked scale dimensions of your hull?

Your 'square on' snap of the STDB sponson box house of the vessel in the pool with the float level on top suggests the sponson house is approx X 3.5 times the length of the wheel diameter

In many photographs of Waverley....the same relationship appears as say 6:1

Naturally this could be a combination of younger or older build or and distorted 'landscape' style photographs

 ...only real way to determine all this is to count & compare the window frames & spacing between bow to stern

  ........Derek

[Tug--Kenny]

Hi Derek,

I purchased the Boxes as complete moulded sections and when compared to the drawings I didn't think they were exactly the shape of the original. I shall have another look and post a picture when I get back to the workshop.

I must admit I imagined there were walkways around the sides. One side is longer than the other, and although they are temporarily taped on for the picture, I figured they should meet the doorways cut into the deck. These are correct to the drawings and also the windows are exactly right.

It's mid morning here in Wales and the sun is out (3rd day in row ...my goodness!) so I'm not in a work mode yet.

Ken

[Tug--Kenny]

Well, once I got in the workshop, there was no stopping me. I've been working like a dog all day.

First the query on the paddle boxes. Upon inspection of the drawings it appears there are side pieces to be added. I cut them out and placed them on top of the boxes and the length just grew and grew, See pics  (48) (49) (50)

Looks more like it now eh !!  Thanks for that Derek, I need all the help I can get. .  I shall be securing the boxes and extra bits soon. I've yet to sand the hull to remove the flashing and production errors.

I removed one error today, when I notice one porthole out of line. Had to refill the hole and will relocate it when the filler is dry.

Decided to fit the edging strips around the deck access holes, ready for the cabins above. When they are dry, I can cut the cabins walls and fit them exactly to this surround. it should then be a waterproof type of seal, or at least, splash proof. (51) (52)

Ken

[Tug--Kenny]

I then filed down the filler on the Bow and refilled the gaps to raise the surface and match the hull. A bit more smoothing down and we shall have a new raised Bow end.(53)

Did a bit of sanding on my home made bench seats by curving the  chair section to accommodate the passengers legs. Can't have them getting uncomfortable, can we.   I drew some parallel lines across them to simulate wood planks and plan to stain them and varnish to match. I understand these are in fact some sort of life saver when thrown into the sea. There are supposed to be cords hanging from them to grab hold of in the water, but I don't know if this is being too fussy to build them !



Ken