Engine mounting

[GreeboTheCat]

Getting to grips with bellcranks and eccentric straps, I feel like a REAL steam engineer now  :music but now I have a question.
It looks like the prop shaft is going to come up to the engine shaft at a slight angle, only 2 or 3 degrees but definitely not in-line. Should I tilt the engine down at the stern to get it to line up or is it ok to use a universal coupling. Bearing in mind that the model is a Lake Steamer so high speed is not the name of the game. Oh, and another question - the engine is a Gage TRV-1 so should I fit a flywheel?

[bogstandard]

For steam engines I would suggest a double universal coupling, you can buy connectors for the Dyco specifically for this job.  This will allow the engine to be set to level and keep the friction as low as possible. The difference is that electric motors are usually fitted in line with the shaft and the coupling is there to take up minor misalignment.
If looks are not important I always used the brass Dyco ends and put push fit, large bore (I think 6mm bore) silicone tubing between them, this is in fact better than the plastic coupling parts, it runs a lot smoother with even less friction.

John

[derekwarner_decoy]

Hi PD's.....Greebo.....your Gage TRV-1 was designed for inclusion of a fly wheel... so best use the recommended size   [the brass version would look best]

With respect to a coupling.....have a look at Gallery 13 in the Edinburgh Model Boat Club WEB site from our links page

http://www.edinburghmodelboatclub.org/gallerys/gallery13/index.htm

An alternative could be     align the engine to the prop shaft accurately in a non resilient manner [1 or 2 degrees output shaft astern down will be no problem with loading or lubrication]......even a true level engine could suffer far greater longitudinal angularity due to vessel trim].....then consider a one off special coupling set similar to the set manufactured by Crewe Engineering for me....&   modify to add some resilience in one half

[GreeboTheCat]

For steam engines I would suggest a double universal coupling, you can buy connectors for the Dyco specifically for this job.  
John

When you say "double universal", do you mean 2 of these?

[kiwimodeller]

Greebo, I usually use Raebosh universals as they have splined brass inserts that push in to each end of the plastic universal and you buy the inserts to suit each shaft size. They also make a splined piece to join two couplings together. Personally I would tilt the engine slightly and then just use one universal to take up any slight angle but if you are unsure about alignment then use two. What I do is make a solid spacer the same length as the universal and bored each end to suit the crank and the propshaft. Use it to keep the engine aligned while you glue the engine mounts in place and then replace it with a universal. In my opinion all steam engines should have a flywheel, otherwise it is too easy to stall them when throttled back if you hit a bit of weed or similar. Hope this helps, regards, Ian.

[bogstandard]

Greebo,
That is what I was on about, Dyco was a generic name, although they were made by different manufacturers. You can buy a small splined coupler to allow you to join two together or sometimes you can get them ready made. Using two significantly reduces the friction encountered when joining to a misaligned shaft and you will still be able to keep your engine on the flat bedplate that your boiler is mounted on as well.

John

[crash93]

http://www.huco.com/products.asp?cat=46

this is handy to see what is available, I have been using GRAUPNER couplings as they are a bit neater

https://shop.graupner.de/webuerp/servlet/AI?ARTN=346

Peter

[derekwarner_decoy]

Hi PD's...I mentioned some time ago  :computer ....that our Sandy the Scot.... :rant  & suggested that there were only two colours for an engine/boiler components ... being   BLACK & GOLD ...& have taken this onboard with Decoy....but what about floor plates :?:

ACS use white, ANTON use a greyish colour & JMC somthing   else....BUT I have never seen either of these colours used in engine room floor plates in real life

 ... BHP Iron ore carriers had black or green chequer plate...RAN war ships had either black chequer plate or brushed aluminium chequerplate

I am sure chequer plate was not rolled in 1878 so latest thought is spraying the galvanised plates [which will be seen] a chalk board green colour.....but will consider other comments