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Author Topic: With safety in mind  (Read 6823 times)

GreeboTheCat

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With safety in mind
« on: May 17, 2007, 12:30:11 AM »
I'm probably getting ahead of myself here a bit as I haven't even started the build of my steam launch yet but seeing as a bit of forward planning can often save lots a head scratching later, here goes.
I keep reading warnings about NOT filling a gas tank in situ (because the gas is heavier than air and sinks into the bilges) which has the effect of when lighting the boiler, loosing your eyebrows!  :shock:
But the connections from gas tank to burner have to be gas-tight which doesn't lend itself to easy removal so what's the answer?
Also, where's the best place to get lagging materials from - good quality wood strips for the boiler and material stuff for the pipework.

Greebo

sandy_ACS

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With safety in mind
« Reply #1 on: May 17, 2007, 07:37:20 AM »
:D  :D

Hi Pd's....

Greebo asks.....
Quote


I'm probably getting ahead of myself here a bit as I haven't even started the build of my steam launch yet but seeing as a bit of forward planning can often save lots a head scratching later, here goes.
I keep reading warnings about NOT filling a gas tank in situ (because the gas is heavier than air and sinks into the bilges) which has the effect of when lighting the boiler, loosing your eyebrows!  
But the connections from gas tank to burner have to be gas-tight which doesn't lend itself to easy removal so what's the answer?
Also, where's the best place to get lagging materials from - good quality wood strips for the boiler and material stuff for the pipework.



First thing...safety is never something to ignore, especially where GAS is concerned, and a little thought can save a nasty accident.

NEVER RE-FILL THE GAS TANK WHILST IT IS IN THE MODEL...ALWAYS REMOVE IT......for the very reason mentioned in Greebo's query.

Making the tank easily removable is not all that difficult and I attach a sketch showing one possible method.

The gas pipe connection uses a soft seal approach...i.e. an o-ring seal...which is compressed against the mating surfaces using a knurled hand wheel type nut, and it can be undone and done up again, using just finger pressure, many times before a new o-ring will be required.

Wood cladding material can be obtained from most good model shops, or mail order via the internet.
I prefer to use PEAR wood, since this is very close grained and has a scale mahogany appearance when sealed with a couple of coats of TEAK OIL.
A good alternative is real MAHOGANY, possibly more easily obtained, however, this has a heavier grain (to me this looks out of scale on small boilers) and will require a couple of extra coats of TEAK OIL to be sure it is sealed properly.

OBECHI can be used, however, this will require staining (use a spirit based stain) before finally sealing with at least 2 coats of TEAK OIL

The size to look for is something like 6mm - 8mm wide x 1mm thick (I used to use 7mm x 1mm PEAR) and the boiler bands and screws provided on your boiler will suit this thickness.

Attach each strip to the outside of the boiler with a couple of small spots of THICK superglue....when all bits are on..sand lightly all over to blend all the edges...apply stain, if required, followed by the required number of coats of TEAK OIL....allow each coat to dry before applying the next, then replace the brass boiler bands, making sure you trap every length of cladding....superglue does not like heat and any unstrapped pieces will very quickly become detached....the glue only holds things while you do the cladding.

I do not recommend using clear varnish unless you are sure it can take the heat...most won't and they just bubble up and blister the first time you fire up the boiler....TEAK OIL does not.

Steam Pipe LAGGING...nothing fancy here...just get some WHITE COTTON TWINE around 2mm OD (obtainable from most stationers)

To Fix it in place.....attach one end to the pipe (close to one of the union nuts) with a spot of thick superglue (or whip it on if you know how to do this)....wind on tight, close turns all the way to the other end and again secure using a spot of super glue (or whip finish the end)...cut off the surplus string and then apply a small amount of the same super glue to the outside of the 2 or 3 coils at either end of the pipe...this will soak in and thoroughly secure the wrapping.

Easy, quick to do and easy to replace if it gets to dirty.

Hope this answers your concerns/questions.

Have Fun.


Best Regards.


Sandy. :vacat  :sunglasses  :computer  :beer

Offline derekwarner_decoy

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With safety in mind
« Reply #2 on: May 17, 2007, 04:10:02 PM »
Hi PD’s………………. Greebo – go to my posting as below – it talks about tube & tube benders & the source etc –  my gas tank was sourced via  Sandy @ ACS & all of the standard gas fittings are o-ring sealed. Sandy made a special o-ring sealed gas isolation valve with knurled nuts for thumb & fore finger removal installation PLUS the same style  knurled  nut for thumb & fore finger removal installation so as to allow me to unscrew the gas discharge tube from the tank to facilitate easy removal for filling ………however I would be more concerned about loosing my eyes that my eyebrows  
   
If you are considering wooden lagging for the gas tank, your model supply shop will have a good range of pre cut timber planks for the purpose -  the bandings on my gas tank are simply manufactured from the same K&S brass & secured with 10 BA brass  screws & nuts  
   
From: Derek L Warner Pty Ltd [mailto:dlwarner@bigpond.net.au]
 Sent: Saturday, 5 May 2007 9:53 AM
 To: 'livesteam@paddleducks.co.uk'
 Subject: RE: Automatic Steam & Gas regulators?  
   
You can never plan TOO much…, just may need to take up SMOKING like John to get the plan material FAG packets to enscribe your thoughts on - Derek  
         
 
 

 -------------------- m2f --------------------
 
 Exported by Paddleducks Mail System.
 
 http://www.paddleducks.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?p=12140#12140
 
 -------------------- m2f --------------------
Derek Warner

Honorary Secretary [Retired]
Illawarra Live Steamers Co-op
Australia
www.ils.org.au

davidavalon

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With safety in mind
« Reply #3 on: May 17, 2007, 08:06:13 PM »
Hello
  I have read yr message with interest. I have built two steam launches, one stern wheeler and one tug all steam powered. One of the launches I powered with meths. First learning curve. Meths is for drinking not playing about in steam boats as it can and did catch fire.
  I then went onto refillable gas tanks. Again as Sandy (ACS) says this can also cause a fire which is hard to extinguish.
   
  Solution is to use a selfsealing gas canister Propane/butane 70/30 respectively. The gas feed pipe is fitted directly to the cannister with a stop valve and has solved my fireraisning problems
  I also have a fire extinguisher handy ( small one ) just in case as u cannot see the gas if any excapes into the bigle.
  Hope this is of use to you and happy sailing. I am sure that Sandy can supply u with the stop valve.
  David Peters

GreeboTheCat  <livesteam@paddleducks.co.uk> wrote:
 
Quote
         I'm probably getting ahead of myself here a bit as I haven't even started the build of my steam launch yet but seeing as a bit of forward planning can often save lots a head scratching later, here goes.
I keep reading warnings  about NOT filling a gas tank in situ (because the gas is heavier than air and sinks into the bilges) which has the effect of when lighting the boiler, loosing your eyebrows!
But the connections from gas tank to burner have to be gas-tight which doesn't lend itself to easy removal so what's the answer?
Also, where's the best place to get lagging materials from - good quality wood strips for the boiler and material stuff for the pipework.

Greebo



 



Offline derekwarner_decoy

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With safety in mind
« Reply #4 on: May 17, 2007, 08:51:19 PM »
Hi PD's & we welcome you comments ....'David Peters' ... however I would ask that you read back into this issue within the PD archives.  :computer .. you will find a number of postings re the connection of EN16 disposable gas containers & these are not considered a connection problem issue within a vessel

Refilling a refillable gas tank within a vessel is the issue.... and as a number of postings by qualified or  :music certified  :respect2 engineering members must ALERT you to the consequences :boom  :ohno  :boom
Derek Warner

Honorary Secretary [Retired]
Illawarra Live Steamers Co-op
Australia
www.ils.org.au

davidavalon

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With safety in mind
« Reply #5 on: May 17, 2007, 08:53:12 PM »
Read and understood/David

derekwarner_decoy <livesteam@paddleducks.co.uk> wrote:  
Quote
         Hi PD's & we welcome you comments ....'David Peters' ... however I would ask that you read back into this issue within the PD archives. .. you will find a number of postings re the connection of EN16 disposable gas containers & these are not considered a connection problem issue within a vessel

Refilling a refillable gas tank within a vessel is the issue.... and as a number of postings by qualified or certified engineering members must ALERT you to the consequences


   
..........Derek


 


Offline derekwarner_decoy

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With safety in mind
« Reply #6 on: May 18, 2007, 03:27:46 PM »
Hi PD’s……………… Greebo – go to my posting as below – it talks about tube & tube benders & the source etc – my gas tank was sourced via Sandy @ ACS & all of the standard gas fittings are o-ring sealed. Sandy made a  special o-ring sealed gas isolation valve with knurled nuts for thumb & fore finger removal installation PLUS the same style knurled nut for thumb & fore finger removal installation so as to allow me to unscrew the gas discharge tube from the tank to facilitate easy removal for filling ………however I would be more concerned about loosing my eyes  that my eye brows

If you are considering wooden lagging for the gas tank, your model supply shop will have a good range of pre cut timber planks for the purpose - the bandings on my gas tank are simply manufactured from the same K&S brass & secured with 10 BA brass screws & nuts

You can never plan TOO much…, just may need to take up SMOKING like John to get the plan material FAG packets to enscribe your thoughts on - Derek
_________________
..........Derek
Derek Warner

Honorary Secretary [Retired]
Illawarra Live Steamers Co-op
Australia
www.ils.org.au

Offline derekwarner_decoy

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With safety in mind
« Reply #7 on: May 30, 2007, 04:59:28 PM »
Hi PD's .... & a question for Sandy.....from the ACS WEB site ......Boilers ....ACSVB2 I see my boiler  :no1

Here we see the gas inlet tube entering the gas jet holder  @ the 9.00 o'clock position looking on the outer burner end disk

Question.... :thinking could I have the burner jet holder located in the same orientation and plane, but take the gas tube toward the boiler casing by 10 mm, then up by 25 mm to clear the burner body... the out toward the gas tank

So I understand we need cool air for good combustion... but what happens with pre heated gas  :boom which from my tests a year or so ago would suggest the gas will be elevated from 10 degrees C + ICE to say 35 degrees C as the gas tube is exposed to the 120 degree C burner casing

Whilst some may think I am penning  :spam ...it is not as this is the preferable tube run if acceptable :?:  :?:  :towel
Derek Warner

Honorary Secretary [Retired]
Illawarra Live Steamers Co-op
Australia
www.ils.org.au

sandy_ACS

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With safety in mind
« Reply #8 on: May 31, 2007, 08:06:43 AM »
:hmph  :hmmm  :ohno

Hi PD's,

Well there is always one isn't there....and guess what, IT'S AN OZZIE..... :oops  :music  :hehe  :hehe  :nose .

Derek asks....

Quote
...could I have the burner jet holder located in the same orientation and plane, but take the gas tube toward the boiler casing by 10 mm, then up by 25 mm to clear the burner body... the out toward the gas tank


The short answer is....yes,

In actual fact there should be little problem with the gas supply even if the pipe is this close...don't forget, the gas jet carrier, gas jet and the attached pipe will get pretty hot at the burner end anyway, since they are connected physically with the burner mixer tube (the brass bit of the burner bit with the 4 air inlet holes), and conduction will heat all these up as a natural result....As will Derek's hot air outbursts.... :oops  :shhh  :respect2

One big NO NO, with this type of burner, is to feed the gas from the bottom of the gas tank, or to lay the gas bottle on it's side, if using a disposable type,...this will feed liquid gas into the burner and create a flare up....so ALWAYS feed gas from the top of the tank (keep disposable canisters upright).
In order to use liquid fed gas supplies, you would need a burner equipped with a suitable pre-heater...which will ensure the liquid gas is vaporised before it reaches the gas jet.

The other big No NO with gas is getting the gas tank to hot....in this case the pressure inside the tank can rise very rapidly, and even with the burner drawing gas off, the rate of flow through the gas jet simply would not be high enough to keep this within safe limits if the tank were allowed to get up to 80 or 100 or so degrees C.
 :nono  :nono

As far as burner orientation is concerned.....you can, if you like, have the mixer tube vertical....or at any other angle you desire....whatever turns you on I suppose.

The one thing I will say....whichever way you route the gas pipe....or orientate the burner mixer tube.....allow for some adjustment of the actual jet carrier, and hence jet position, ....relative to the 4 cross air intake holes.

This is the only really critical dimension/adjustment, and will be determined by gas pressure, jet size and the air temperature (and hence amount of available oxygen per cubic ft/metre/whatever you choose to measure it in).
You may well find that a slight adjustment off the jet, on any particular day, will improve the burn... :no1  :news

Ok Derek, and other interested PD's, I hope this helps.

Best regards.

Sandy. :vacat  :sunglasses  :computer  :angel  :beer

Offline derekwarner_decoy

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With safety in mind
« Reply #9 on: August 17, 2007, 07:43:33 PM »
Hi PD's .... with the ...... the ACS WEB site customer pages back on line ........D_Gallagher_9....  we see the assumed ACSHB2 [horizontal boiler] side by side with an ACS ReGas gas tank

The previous temperature assessments of my [ACSVB2]  similar...vertical boiler were  confirmed & acknowledged with Sandy as 120>150  degrees C shell temperature

So  :hmmm .. how can this build excape the  :boom  :?:  :arrow:  :?: of the gas tank being subjected to the 100 odd degree Delta T>> [increase] [of the]  boiler?

Possibly, Sandy...or others may offer comment  :hehe  :ohno
Derek Warner

Honorary Secretary [Retired]
Illawarra Live Steamers Co-op
Australia
www.ils.org.au

sandy_ACS

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With safety in mind
« Reply #10 on: August 19, 2007, 01:04:48 AM »
:D  :D

Hi Pd's,

Derek asks: -

Quote
D_Gallagher_9.... we see the assumed ACSHB2 [horizontal boiler] side by side with an ACS ReGas gas tank

The previous temperature assessments of my [ACSVB2] similar...vertical boiler were confirmed & acknowledged with Sandy as 120>150 degrees C shell temperature

So  .. how can this build excape the     of the gas tank being subjected to the 100 odd degree Delta T>> [increase] [of the] boiler?


A very good question Derek  :respect  :post and one that deserves some consideration: - but I am not about to re-open the P1 V1 etc argument again......

In the particular installation you have specified the problem is not anything like as bad as you might think.

Whilst the surface of the boiler shell is, as you have stated, at between 120 deg and 150 deg C TEMPERATURE, the gas tank will not be directly exposed to this, since there is a direct air separation gap of some 1/2" or so between the two items, probably more if you consider the fact that they both has curved surfaces in opposition to each other..... the average spacing could be calculated for such curved surfaces, but let us suggest say 1" average.

The amount of HEAT transfer is directly proportional to the difference in TEMPERATURE, between the two objects, and the exposed SURFACE AREAs of the opposing objects, and is directly effected by the INSULATION of the media between the objects. In this case we have an AIR layer, forming and insulation band.

Consider also that the gas tank is only about 1/2 the length of the boiler, further reducing the exposed surface area.

The HEAT made available at the surface of the boiler by this TEMPERATURE would need to transfer to the gas tank in order to raise its temperature and this can only occur in one of three (3) ways, namely: -

CONDUCTION.

RADIATION.

CONVECTION.

Conduction can be largely ruled out, since AIR is a very poor CONDUCTOR of heat, and what little there would be would be effectively irrelevant due to the effects of CONVECTION.
For CONDUCTION to have any real significance, the gas tank outer shell, and the boiler outer shell would need to have some physical connection, i.e. be actually touching.

RADIATION.... there would certainly be some small amount of heat transfer due to this, however, it would not amount to a high level.

In the first place the temperature difference between the boiler shell and the surrounding atmosphere would not really be great enough for significant RADIATION transfer, and again, the effects of CONVECTION would, to a large degree, override the minimal transfer which would exist.

 Secondly, heat radiation from a body is colour sensitive, being greatest from a dull black body and reducing as the colour changes to lighter tones.

The same applies to Radiation absorbtion, a dull black body will absorb heat  more readily than will that of a lighter one.

Surface finish also has a significant effect on radiation absorbtion/emission with a shiny surface the effect is reduced considerably, since a lot of the heat would be reflected away again.

Daves boiler and gas tank are both light grey, and shiny, and will thus absorb/emit heat to a lesser degree than will those of a dull black colour.


CONVECTION.

This would certainly be the means of greatest heat transfer, but not directly towards the Gas tank.
Rather, the heat would rise vertically upwards.

Unless of course, you live south of the equator, where the reverse happens...... here the heat either goes downwards into the ground, making it very dry and arid.....or is absorbed into the modellers body, where it is used to expound awkward questions..... :nah  :hehe  :music  

Air molecules, directly in contact with the boiler shell, would initially heat up and in doing so will expand, thus becoming lighter.
These would rise upwards and be replaced, from below, by cooler molecules.... the cycle would thus continue.

In Dave Gallaghers case, since he is in the Northern hemisphere, and his model is also an open launch,  the convection would be largely between the boiler shell and the atmosphere, with the heat freely escaping into the latter, to be replaced with much cooler air from below.

In this particular instance, the amount of heat transferred, via all methods would probably not not amount to more than 10% at best, probably a lot less.

Which would mean the gas tank would not rise in temperature by much more than 10 - 15 degrees above ambient. A safe amount.

The other side of the equation.... the rate at which Butane and Propane lose heat whilst being extracted from the gas tank would be more than enough to probably eliminate any rise in tank temperature in the first place.

The above is true for an open launch, however, the same can not be said for an enclosed system, such as PS DECOY, or any other steam driven model with the equipment stowed beneath a weather deck.

In such cases..... CONDUCTION would now become (indirectly) higher, due to increased temperatures in the atmospheric condition surrounding the entire installation.. and which will be in DIRECT contact with the outer surface of the GAS tank.

Radiation would have a slightly higher effect due to the reduction in cool convection air.

CONVECTION would now play a much bigger role, in that it would quickly heat up the entire surrounding atmosphere (now trapped beneath the weather deck), which in turn means the air surrounding the gas tank would be at a higher temperature, thus causing it to increase in temperature due to direct contact CONDUCTION.

Here again, though, the ability of gasses such as Butane and Propane to CONDUCT heat, and thus absorb it are quite low, (Butane has a conductive coefficient of 0.7 whilst that of Propane is 0.8 whilst air is 0.21), copper on the other hand has a coefficient of some 2570.7.

The natural cooling effect of the gas, whilst being drawn from the tank for combustion, will again help keep this in check.

In these sort of installations it is sensible to arrange for the gas tank to be mounted a greater distance from the boiler, and preferably be located directly beneath a suitable sized air vent, where the inrush of external atmospheric (much cooler) air can help keep thing under control.

Such air inlets are vital, in any case, to allow for sufficient oxygen to enter the system, to keep the burners working properly, and to allow for the escape of heated air and any combustion gasses that may escape the flue system.

So there we have it chaps, I Hope that is all understandable. if not, then all questions on a postcard to BANDIT the dog. :twisted:  :twisted: just kidding John..... then again!!!

Best regards.

Sandy. :sunglasses  :vacat  :computer  :beer

 

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