PS Adelaide...2007 New Construction - [Richard Bundy]

[bundyrap]

Your a legend Sean!!  That would would be brilliant!!!

Building is coming along and will try and get some pics posted over the weekend. Wheelhouse is started and one paddle is spinning.

Still heaps to do yet tho.

Thanks Sean

Richard

[bundyrap]

Quick update - Adelaide moved under her own power today all be it with the power of only one paddle and wow did she move! Heaps of power but gentle at the same time.

No worries about the paddle wheels being made from 2mm ply or the need for bigger motors. 5/16th brass shafts are probably an overkill and 2 screws attaching the wheel to a soldered brass plate soldered to the shaft appears heaps strong enough even for a 1.5m, 20kg displacement girl.

Top deck is removable for motor and smoker care but daily access to batteries will be via the removable rear cabin. Work continues on the wheel house, second wheel and the boxes soon. Thinking of making the rudder for show only since with individual paddle control will give all the steering control needed.

Hope to have it somewhat finished to take down to Brisbane in May for the Logan City Marine Modellers open day.

Richard

[derekwarner_decoy]

Goodness Bundy, my solar powered ABACASS   was pretty close with your confirmed displacement of 20Kg


3) My guess of your PS Adelaide is more from your estimated 15 Kg to the 19>20.5 Kg displacement range

Mind you, it was only an estimation through my version of MathCAD............. - Derek

[bundyrap]

Hi All

Another quick update - seems all I have time for lately.

All the electronics are now in and working beautifully. Sound and smoke really are worth the cost and effort for the extra dimensions they bring I feel.

Both wheels are in and working but not yet detailed.  Even at this early stage I am happy I have a very practical , working boat. Early tests in wind and no ballast show a very stable boat with heaps of power.

Any ideas on how to make a wheel for the wheel house? It will have to be about 95mm dia and will be a pretty major focal point. I could cut it out on the CNC and into it with the dremel to smooth it out but is there a better way to do it?

Have you posted those Adelaide winch pictures Sean and I have just missed them?

I've also been busy getting this CNC foam cutter working which has been a learning curve. The Zulu should be the first boat built on it in the next few months.

Richard

[ljhall]

Hi Michael,

I have just come across your posting from February 12, quite a good PS Adelaide Engine Room photo also.
I had a dodgy non-digital camera with me for Steamfest last October, and the Engine Room shots didn't turn out too well, so if you could post some of yours that we be good.

Regards,

Leith Hall

[Excelsior]

Does anyone know what happened with this model...  Would love to know, was looking pretty good

[bundyrap]

Hello Again

After a time away from this build while I pursued a number of aviation projects I now find myself drawn back here. Model flying club politics simply aren't  fun.

While building these flying projects I've had to learn a number of new skills - new for me anyway. Things like 3d CAD design, 4 axis CNC cutting and vacuum bagged composite moulding that at the time were an enormous learning curve but now have become my main modelling tools. I'm really excited to see how these new tools can be applied to my paddle boat builds.

The Adelaide has stored well and all has still worked after a good clean up. My expectations of a scale model and I hope my skills to achieve them have both moved on since I last worked on this model. The build is so advance though that I feel I must finish it the best I can from where it is currently and then move onto a more challenging project.

I've also developed an interest in live steam. I am reading everything I can about it and love the learning process. I'm amazed by the complexities of something that I had thought was a straight forward process.

For some reason I'm also still drawn to the Zulu. I would love the challenge of building the Zulu using CNC cutting and moulding techniques and although a very ambitious plan to maybe power it with live steam. This is in the future however and the Adelaide must be finished first.

I'll post some progress pics as I get going again.

Richard

[Eddy Matthews]

Great to hear you've got back to the build Richard, I'm looking forward to seeing her completed.

It will also be interesting to see how the new techniques you've learned translate into model boating with the following builds....

Regards
Eddy

[derekwarner_decoy]

Hey ....welcome back bundyrap ......... the PD people    are just a little larger in number but all remains the same

I know our newer & older members will enjoy your build......Derek   

[bundyrap]

Hi Guys

Thanks for the greetings and it is good to be back.

My first job in getting this build underway again was to pull off the rear outrigger decks ( is that the right term??).  I found that I had made the original wheel boxes too big when translating the plan's square boxes to the round version so I guess the lesson is to get all your documentation sorted before you start and then measure twice and cut once.

Still the worst part was thinking about. Once I had torn off the old decking, sorted out the right lines and put a few new decking planks in it is nearly done.

I cut new paddle box walls on the CNC cutter which made short work of all those square holes. I'm about to make a new improved CNC cutter taking advantage of the new linear bearings and ballscrews coming out of China now and at very reasonable prices. I'll post some pics of that if anyone is interested.

So I've nearly finished planking the top paddle boxes tonight and hope to get the rear decking all back on tomorrow. I'm looking forward to getting into the more fiddle stuff like the stairs up the back of the boxes, rudder detail etc.

Richard

[bundyrap]

Just while I think of it...

I'm not happy with the painted colour of the decking as it is and I have to put new decking now as well.  Is there a painting technique that I could apply to the whole deck both new and old to give that weathered old timber look?

I have used simple pine for the decking so far and plan to use it for the new decking fill in just for consistency. It has worked really well to date but the next build I will venture into the more exotic timbers.

Thanks

Richard

[steamboatmodel]

Hi Richard,
"I cut new paddle box walls on the CNC cutter which made short work of all those square holes. I'm about to make a new improved CNC cutter taking advantage of the new linear bearings and ballscrews coming out of China now and at very reasonable prices. I'll post some pics of that if anyone is interested."
Yes please I would love to see some pics, what control system are you using?
Regards,
Gerald
Retired CNC Technician.

[bundyrap]

Good Morning

Just a quick catchup on the CNC questions people have asked.

My current machine is a "Joe's 2006" all the building details of which can be found at http://cnczone.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=346
Be warned tho it is 100s of pages long and very,very addictive! I've added a 4th axis to the basic design in the form of a vertical rotary table and 4 jaw chuck. I'm finding new uses for this all the time but so far the most impressive thing as been the ability to cut people in any scale and any pose and then mould them. The attached pics show a little of this process.

My machine is about 2 years old now and I'm ready for an update. This new one will be an own design making use of the now affordable linear bearings, ballscrews and spindle drives out of China. Details of this new one are still evolving but I'll post the odd pick as it goes along.

The software to get these machines to cut useful boat bits is just as important as the hardware. I use a 3d drawing software called Rhino which is available as a free download from Rhiono3d.com  with heaps of tutorial help included, SheetCam and MadCam to calculate the toolpaths  and I use Artsoft's Mach3 to actually drive the stepper motors.

Hope this helps.

Richard

[ADAGIO]

Just while I think of it...

I'm not happy with the painted colour of the decking as it is and I have to put new decking now as well.  Is there a painting technique that I could apply to the whole deck both new and old to give that weathered old timber look?

I have used simple pine for the decking so far and plan to use it for the new decking fill in just for consistency. It has worked really well to date but the next build I will venture into the more exotic timbers.

Thanks

Richard

G'day Bundyrap.My method of making weathered teak decking look like weathered teak is to use.....teak.  Actually, I use the teak drawer front hot glue on veneer from the builders' supply, wash is with a thin white, and then wash it with thinned black until it lookes about right.  Then varnish clear to protect.  easy.  ADAGIO