Lory J. EDDY REMOVE OR EDIT AS YOU WANT

[Stu Kerrn Sr]

I enjoy the paddleducks site very much. These are photos of my Lory J and detailed photos that may be helpful to build a paddlewheeler. It has a Reliant hull, Strongbow and Chieftan likenesses also European folding stacks. EDDY I have the same views as you do, build something different and you don't really need plans except for a guideline. notice the make of the speed controlers. The "O" ring drives are home made. I hope you enjoy these. I took them today for you. She is about 36 inches long.

[Eddy Matthews]

Why on earth would I wish to delete or edit your post Stu? She's gorgeous!!

I've been looking at a similar tug to build next year myself - I have drawings for a British twin funnelled tug called "Lingdale" which I'd love to make. I've already been in contact with Hans Freund (Scotfriend) to order a set of CNC cut styrene frames for the paddlewheels...

[mjt60a]

Excellent model, what scale would it be?

[Stu Kerrn Sr]

Excellent model, what scale would it be?

Mick  As your being Captain and Master you deserve an answer, but I don't really understand scale. I apologize, sometimes I use a crew member and build around him, and other times I just think what will fit in the trunk (boot) of my car. What I say is true. I take hull drawings to the library and size to the length I want with the copy machine. I have a Clyde Puffer I am quite proud of that is about 16 inches long that was made from the plans inside the book cover "Light in The Glen". I enjoying building. mostly scratch.

[mjt60a]

Actually, I tend to go by the figure size myself. I like to use 'slot racing' figures (also farm labourers and zoo keepers by 'britains ltd' and 'gauge 1' rail figures) these are all 1/32nd scale. Model cars by AMT, revell/monogram and tamiya are usually 1/24th or 1/25th so the figures you sometimes get for them could be used on a 1/24-1/25th model, and LGB rail is 1/22.5...(figures in all those scales are available from preiser - though not all are suitably dressed/posed for marine models!) looking at the wheelhouse and knowing the hull is 3 ft long, I'm guessing it'd be about 1/32nd - 1/48th...doesn't matter really, I was just curious...

[AlistairD]

 
 

  sometimes I use a crew    member and build around him,

   Â 
   What you need is a crew member on the foredeck of that tug winding down    the funnels. I remembere that being done on the Dresden paddlers when I    visited in 1985. After the wall came down they were rebuilt around 1990 with    hydraulic lowering of funnels 
   Â 
   Alistair

[Stu Kerrn Sr]

Actually, I tend to go by the figure size myself. I like to use 'slot racing' figures (also farm labourers and zoo keepers by 'britains ltd' and 'gauge 1' rail figures) these are all 1/32nd scale. Model cars by AMT, revell/monogram and tamiya are usually 1/24th or 1/25th so the figures you sometimes get for them could be used on a 1/24-1/25th model, and LGB rail is 1/22.5...(figures in all those scales are available from preiser - though not all are suitably dressed/posed for marine models!) looking at the wheelhouse and knowing the hull is 3 ft long, I'm guessing it'd be about 1/32nd - 1/48th...doesn't matter really, I was just curious...

Mick   You may be surprised how the clothes can be altered with a Dremel tool and a little filler. My Imara had three white metal fittings that were proper( made by Frank Henchclift), then I took some world war II tank figures, ground off the uniform, hats and boots in a manner that look's acceptable, Many figures that are proper are quite expensive. Your signature photo, was taken into a photo program and lightened up and your paddle look like feathering Graupner's, If I am correct they are the same paddles I used on this model.

[Stu Kerrn Sr]

 
 

  sometimes I use a crew    member and build around him,

   Â 
   What you need is a crew member on the foredeck of that tug winding down    the funnels. I remember that being done on the Dresden paddlers when I    visited in 1985. After the wall came down they were rebuilt around 1990 with    hydraulic lowering of funnels 
   Â 
   Alistair

You are correct, I just couldn't find crewman that looked (in my opinion, proper). In the USA stacks are rigid, these were done to catch the eye at shows.  I have no model shops close to me ( maybe 75 miles round trip) and I must use what I can get. Being that you are from Scotland (a beautiful land) take a look at Babe, my Clyde Puffer, she has crew members. I have no model builders close to talk with, thanks for your comments.

[mjt60a]

I have altered figures at times using milliput or humbrol filler, with some success but I like to get ones that are about half-way there to start with if possible (though I did one time use some kind of barbarian warrior thing from a wargame and it worked OK, lots of material removed though...)

....your paddle look like feathering Graupner's....

They are graupner, which I made a couple of small alterations to  
You can see my still incompleted (STILL INCOMPLETED!!!) model under the topic 'Freshwater' in this forum

[Bill Hudson]

I used to cast white metal figures and animals for model rail roaders in 1/4" O scale.  I used, at first, a 50/50 (lead/ tin) metal. Later there was a scare about lead in the metal and I switched to a very high tin, no lead metal similar to pewter.  If you figures are of any of these metals they can be altered by cutting them apart and soldering them as you like.  Of course test your skills on something you are not fond of or will miss dearly if you mess it up.  Use 50/50 solder with lots of rozen flux. Also use no larger than a 35 watt iron.  I made a basic horse which I cast then I altered it to make other horses in different positions. I cut legs apart and repositioned them and  filled in the holes with solder blobs which I later carved, filed or ground to shape.  I also dressed my men using very thin tooling copper sheet.  It is great for belts and braces.  To make a brim hat just cut a round with a hole in it to fit the head then push it in position of the brim on the head and  solder a blob on top of the head to make the hat crown. Then file it to shape.  I use very fine soft wire to make buckles.  Used to find tags with wire to mount them which was just right in size.  

Bill