Powered by live steam

[consolidation]

Now that it has finally warmed up, I have started work on a Dumas
Creole Queen kit. I hope to have the hull finished tonight and do a
bathtub test tomorrow!

I bought this kit with the intention to make it powered by live steam.
I have used live steam for years, but never for an R/C application. I
need help finding a live steam engine suitable for this application. I
would like one that has a Forward-Reverse-Neutral that can be operated
with a servo and one that is self-starting. Any ideas? I've looked at
the Wilesco dual-cylinder marine engine as well as the Jensen
dual-cylinder model. There isn't much information out there for live
steam model boats. Any tips, tricks, or info you all could provide
would be helpful.

Thanks!
TJ
Las Vegas, NV

[gerald gardiner]

Hi TJ
I have used a Wilesco D48 steam engine in my Steam Launch Lily for a couple of years now, the engine works fine, but I found the burner and boiler lacking. I have replaced the burner with one modified from a small camp stove, and have just installed a homemade boiler with more heating surface. hope this can help you.
Gerald Gardiner
Toronto Canada

[consolidation]

Gerald,

Thanks for the reply! Does the Wilesco D48 have a neutral position? Do
you have a servo hooked up to your engine to control foward and
reverse? Does the supplied boiler and burner on the D48 not provide
enough steam? I know that my Wilesco D10 runs at rocket speeds and I
need something that runs a lot slower to power a paddelwheeler! And
finally, is there a Yahoo group that would be more suited to ask these
questions?

Thanks again!
TJ

[Dallinson]

TJ.
Regarding your quest for details of steam power plants, here is my
twopennyworth.
Have you looked into Cheddar Models, they do a large range of complete
packages, specially for boats. Neutral/stop/speed control is achieved with a
servo on the throttle. The servo driving the fwd/rev function is normally
one way or the other. Try here http://www.modelsteam.co.uk/
They do the boilers with automatic controls when running on gas etc.
Good luck
David
P.S. There is another group calling dealing in live steam
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/live-steam/ Currently has 547 members

[gerald gardiner]

Hi TJ
The D48 does have neutral, plus variable speed forward and reverse all controlled by one servo you could run a boat off of a two channel radio if you didn't want to blow the whistle, mine is in a propeller driven boat with a 65mm prop. It might run better if it was driving paddle wheels, and I have been told that this is the engine and boiler that Graupner recommends for there Glasgow tug. I changed the burnner and fuel tank on mine as I could only get it to run for about five minutes on the bench on one filling, others may have had better luck, but I wanter about 20 to 30 minutes run minimum. I then changed to a homemade boiler (hydrostaticaly tested to 60psi 22psi letoff at the safety) as I want more steam for alonger run and higher speed.You also might want to check out Graham Industries Twin Cylinder Vertical Kit about $250 US, they advertise in Live Steam magazine, There is also the Cheddar line of engines from England. Keep us posted.
Gerald
Toronto Canada

[Dale Kern]

TJ,
I have been reading the comments on this site for a number of months now and this is the first time I written anything. I bought the Creole Queen a number of years back and thats what got me interested in this site. I have built several other boats, the Dumas Dauntless, Sterling's Chris Craft Catalina, and Midwest Lobster boat. I am presently working on the Sterling Amercian Scout S-2 Freighter. The Creole Queen will probably be my next. I am not thrilled with the material in the Creole Queen kit for the railings and ornate work. Do you plan on using the material that came in the kit or substitute it with something else like photo etched brass for the railing and ornate work? I would be interested in what you use and the source if you use a substitute.
Thanks
Dale Kern

[consolidation]

Dale,

I am disappointed in the Creole Queen kit myself. The instructions
aren't super clear. I am from the desert and can't tell the difference
between the spruce pieces and the oak pieces! The parts don't fit as
well as they should, either. I think that part of the problem is that
the parts are die-cut as opposed to laser-cut which gives you a
cleaner and more precise cut. I am used to laser-cut building kits
where all of the parts fit snugly. I had to fill parts of the bow with
wood putty because of all the gaps.

Anyway, the hull is finally completed and water-tight. I'll start on
the superstructure this afternoon. I haven't looked at the railing
material yet, so I don't know what I'll do with it. I have looked at
the plastic "ornamental" work and will at least trim the clear parts
off. I will keep everyone posted on my progress. Now I have to get a
D48 ordered!

TJ

[gerald gardiner]

Hi TJ
I was taking with some of the guys at the pond last Wednesday night about your plans, I can not repeat what some of them said about the Creole Queen kit as there may be young Paddleducks listening and I try not to use that type of language, but the general consciences was too keep the top weight down so as to maintain free-board, and to keep the ventilation up to avoid problems with the heat. lots of luck
Gerald
Toronto Canada

[John]

Hi
TJ
maybe you could check out the gage tvr1a twin cylinder engine made by
Graham industries (www.grahamind.com) im not accociated in any way
but have been interested in this little engine for a while but the
Aussie dollar just dont get qite high enough for me yet and probably
never will ho hum so I hope this helps
Cheers
John

[majuka39]

i have a glasgow tug with a wilesco d48 steam engine. it runs good. you have
to make sure you have the servo adjusted right to give it forward and reverse.
it will
work in the nuetral position. i have mine in a glasgow tug from graunaper kit.
it works well. just make sure you have enough ventilation to let the excess
heat out.
ididnt do that at first and the wheelhouse cought on fire. other than that
the engine
is beautiful. if you have any questions email me at majuka39@aol.com.
jim moeller

[jsearly]

Jim
On the Wilesco D48 I have been concerned about mounting the butane tank and
controlling the flame level. I think it should have more than enough power
as the traction engine and road roller I have seem to have more than enough
with one cylinder. One of those I know fairly well on the 16mm ng list has
fitted a D14 to a locomotive using Mechanco components and the video he
posted was impressive. I have a D48 that will probably be going into a
locomotive in the near future, but driving through a set of gears like a
climax or garret for slower operation and more pulling power.
JWE
Long Beach, CA

[wsnowdon]

Hello "Ducks". I am back after 3 superb weeks working as a volunteer
on the PS WAVERLEY !! I have had a twin cylinder WILESCO paddle
engine for about ten years now, and its still going strong. For the
member who only gets 5 minutes from a full gas tank, YOU ARE
OPE$NING THE VALVE TOO WIDE and burning gas off too quickly. I get 15-
16 minutes running time per filling every trip. Now for some tips:
all steam engines need 2-3 hours running in time, so dont expect
rocket performance from a new engine. Always fill the boiler with HOT
water, this cuts down on time and gas to raise steam. Only use steam
oil in the lubricating cups. ordinary oil is not water soluble and
may gum up the works. Lag the top of the boiler with asbestos or a
cut down soldering mat, then cover in wood. this retains a
tremeandous amount of heat in the boiler. Open gas valve (not fully-
trial and error) and when safety valve starts to hiss, TURN GAS DOWN.
As the cylinders will be cold, steam condenses in the pipes and
cylinders, Open steam control slightly and turn flywheel, this will
blow water out of the exhaust, allowing steam to heat the
cylinders.When first starting, the engine will probably not self-
start. as soon as the cylinders are hot it will. These engines
respond well to radio control. The boiler is more than capable
specialy if lagged, and I suggest that anyone running out of steam is
running on full throttle too long. EVEN full-size suffers from this.
Lag the steam pipe with string, this ensures dry steam to cylinders
with no heat/pressure loss . NEVER use WD40 or similiar spray
lubicants on moving parts, as it forms a laquer and actualy increases
friction. Sorry if its a bit long, so TURN GAS DOWN ! Walter.

[gerald gardiner]

Hi Walter
Thanks for the tips, when I originally switched to a different fuel tank I had not Lagged my boiler I have done so now and it really makes a lot of improvement. After I get this boiler going I am going to make an engine and will try the wilesco back in another hull with the boiler lagged and the original fuel tank, this time driving paddlewheels. Thanks again for the tips and how about some photos of your work on the Waverley.
Regards
Gerald
Toronto Canada

[jwearly]

Walter
Exactly what I tell those who have trouble with their Mamod locomotives. I hear all these stories about Mamod and Wilesco and others being uncontrolable rockets with no run time. Mine are not that way and it looks so nice when they come around a turn that climbs slightly and you can see each stroke of the cylinders seperatly instead of a blur like many run them. I am planning a single larger Wilesco cylinder and boiler running as a walking beam engine when I get around to building my Dumas Mt. WAshington in a year or so. I think with a simple throttle system like is used with the D48 it should be very controlable. A throttle block like this though a little larger is available in the UK from PPS models and IP Engineering as used on their upgraded Mamod type locomotives.
--
JWE
Long Beach, CA