Hi Bob & Trixi,
Don't be concerned about asking 'odd' questions on this group, thats how we all learn about the 'duck' boats,
even the 'so called experts' need a helping hand -- and this is the place to get it.
definition: 'expert' == 'ex' is the unknown quantity, 'spurt' == water under pressure :-)
ON the subject of paddle wheels,
( by the way most Aussie Paddlers are side wheelers,
have a look in the group's FILES section for some
great photos)
a) most Aussie type paddlers had metal framed wheels, like a spider web of ribs, and the wooden floats (paddles)
were bolted to that frame. It was a fairly simple job to fabricate a complete wheel asembly next to where the boat
was being built. Most Australian boats were simply built on the river bank and not in a 'factory' situation.
b) radial wheels are the simplist form , after the base frame is made the wooden floats are FIXED along radius
(spoke) lines around the wheel. Therefore the paddles always enter/leave the water in a fixed position.
c) on a feathering wheel the floats are located on bearings placed around the wheel in a similar position as the fixed
type, however the floats are 'swung' from these bearings and then attached to a cunning mechanism that
changes the angle of entry of the float to the water as the complete wheel rotates. Not dissimilar to the internal
workings of a radial aircraft engine. The theory being that by entering the water in a more vertical plane
the paddlewheel will be more efficient. ( by some 30% 'perhaps' ).
However the feathering mechanism is fairly complex and quite difficult to repair. In the Aussie River Boat
experience feathering was considered to be of little value.
So much better to have a simple radial wheel that if you hit a snag or sandbar you could fix it with a sledgehammer
and axe !!
I'm sure Paul Jordan will have more info on the subject.
Good luck with your model,
Cheers,
Brett