Paddleducks
Paddler Modelling => Construction => Topic started by: Tug--Kenny on June 06, 2008, 07:37:52 AM
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This is a build Blog of the P.S.Waverley.
I have purchased the Hull and paddles from Waverley Models in Clevedon, Somerset and these came with the outline plans of the real ship. The model will be constructed as best as possible to copy the original ship from the 1970’s using scratch build and commercial parts where possible.
The pictures are labelled in numerical order, and will be referred to as we go along, so we’ll start off with the basic hull. Picture (1)
I couldn’t resist placing the paddle boxes on the side to get a general impression of her (2). Now the work begins by cutting out the windows and port holes in the hull. First, I marked out the positions and then drilled tiny holes in the hull. I enlarged these to the correct sizes with a Dremmel, whilst wearing my breathing apparatus, as the fibreglass dust was everywhere. It was then time to vacuum out the workshop. (One of the many clean ups during this build!)
I then purchased an 8x4 sheet of 3.6mm ply from the builder’s merchants, as this was cheaper than buying small pieces from a model shop. A piece was cut slightly larger than the ship as I wanted a one piece section for the top of the deck. (3) & (4). The square windows are the unusual feature of this ship, so it was important to get them square and tidy looking. (5).
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Paddle wheel construction
I have gone for the feathering type of paddle wheel, as I believe this represents the beauty of this model. I’ve opted for the brass version and these are the parts that are needed. (6)
The parts were dry fitted to get a general impression of how it goes together. (7) (8) (9). The outer rim is not used on the Waverley, so this had to be removed. (10). I was then left with just the centre pieces. (11) (12)
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The paddle blades were the bent in a vice, as per the guide lines, so as to fit across the newly cut inner rims. (13) (14)
The banjos were then fitted to the rims with 2mm nuts and bolts. The original suggestion was to cut 2mm rod into little rivet sizes and hammer them to get a close fit with movement. This did not appeal to me and I require a better accuracy ratio when working on details like these. I had to buy 200 nuts and bolts to cover the job in hand. (15) (16) (17)
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The paddle blades recommended material was mahogany sheet at 3mm, but I have opted for 3mm plastic, as it’s more flexible to work with and it’s water resistant. I’ve found that strips of the correct width can be bought from the DIY stores, so these were obtained. They were then cut to the desired length and fitted to the paddles with 4off, 2mm nuts and bolts, and locktight was glued around the ends. The banjos were countersunk at one end and a 2mm bolt was super glued in one end. (18) (19).
These were left to dry overnight (20) and in the morning, the whole lot was fitted together. (21) (22) (23). Major problems surfaced at this point, in that the feathering action was severely curtailed in movement.
Inspection revealed that the inside edges of the blades were a fraction too wide and were not travelling far enough inwards, so the whole lot was dismantled to have the edges shimmed down a few millimeters. (24)
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The feathering point of the banjo unit had me stumped, so I had to seek advice.
My thanks to Eddy for pointing me in the right direction. I’m new to paddlers and could be seeking further help yet.
It took all day to assemble the two sets of paddle wheels, but finally they are up and running. (25) (26)
The next stage involved the fitting of the drive shaft in the ship. First a pilot hole was drilled in the side as per the original drawings and a matching hole the other side was laser marked through the hull. These were drilled out to 6mm diameter and the brass bar run through. I then fitted on the paddle wheels temporarily to get a general feel for the situation. The paddle boxes were cut with slots to slide down over the wheels. (27)
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The bearings problem became simple when it was found that some phosphor bronze bearings from a Tamiya car had 6mm holes in them. The outer diameter was drilled in the hull to accommodate these, and it is planned to epoxy some large washers each side to bed them in securely. How we stop water coming up the shaft is yet to be figured out.
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We then moved on the deck cutting and fitting squarely. This was done on a fret saw and sanding wheels. (more dust and respirators!) (28)
The paddle wheels were fitted just to see the effect. It’s beginning to look the part now. (29)
The deck was removed and holes cut in where we want access under the proposed cabins on top. (30)
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A great start to your build blog Ken, well done.....
It never ceases to amaze me that we buy a lovely commercially produced hull which is fully watertight, and the first thing we modellers do is to cut and drill holes all over it. Then we spend the next few months making sure that water cannot get into the holes we've made!! :hehe
It's also worrying having to cut an expensive set of paddlewheels to get the desired result - One slip, or a cut in the wrong place, and it's just cost you the best part of £200 for some scrap brass!!
Looking forward to the next installments.....
Regards
Eddy
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Thank you Eddy. I hope I hope I'm not taking up too much web space.
I also am not keen on drilling hulls, but it has to be done. ;). The paddle wheels were a nerve racking experience, so I hope they propel the ship along when the time comes. The 64 nuts and bolts are not tightened down yet and the whole thing is still floppy. I'm waiting until the hull is ready before lining them up.
Today was cut and glue day as last night I epoxied the deck stringers in place. I believe in overdoing the clamping as it tends to be rather permanent all this epoxy stuff. (32) (33)
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I have cleaned out the slots for the access holes. These will be edged in wood to take the cabins above.
Once again I couldn't resist fitting on top of the ship to see the fit. Overnight, the stringers have pushed out the sides a little, but not to worry as they will pull back together when the connecting stringers are fitted. (34) (35)
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Don't worry about the amount of space your taking up Kenny - We've got plenty! :)
Regards
Eddy
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Next off was to cut a template for the base floor. This was then transferred to the plywood and cut out. A little bit of sanding around the edges to ensure a nice fit and then it was epoxied in and held in place with four heavy batteries. While that's drying, I have called it a day to have a beer.
The floor will help me in the securing of the motor and sliders to encase the battery. I like to fit these major lumps before topping the deck as it makes access much easier. (36)
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Thank you Eddy. I'm enjoying myself writing about her, as actually building her.
They say this epoxy stuff if dangerous to the skin by absorption. I notice my fingers are sticking to the keyboard. :o I tried washing with all sorts of chemicals and ending up with washing up liquid, but it does not come off. I hope I live long enough to finish the build. ;)
ken
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The next step was to build the Aft passenger lower cabin floor. (37) (38) (39)
I plan to fit this section with chairs and table lights that can be seen through the square windows. I had a go at making the back to back chairs today and try and find a good way of looking good. When I crack it, I shall be making upwards of 20 of em !! No pictures yet as I'm still working on it.
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If you read the blurb on most glues they will say they are dangerous in one way or another - I've never had a problem personally, but I do know a couple of people who have developed an allergic skin reaction, so just take sensible precautions.
When adding the extra detail stuff, always remember to watch the weight - Paddlers are often "tender" in model sizes, so the more weight you can save here and there the better! Apart from that one proviso, I like the idea of a detailed interior with lighting! ;)
You've got me thinking about getting back into doing some modelling now damn you!
Regards
Eddy
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I don't seem to get allergic to materials, so hopefully all will be well. I shall think about using that stack of plastic gloves from the local garage next time.
My supply of epoxy is the non smelling type used by real ship repairers and takes ages to set, but is really effective.
Glad to have spurred you on with some building. There's nothing like it, you know. No Boss, no clocking in, tea on demand, and sunbathing when tiredness takes over. 8)
Ken
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Hi PD's........& Ken says......
and sunbathing when tiredness takes over.
:porkies....Ken..... :thinking..where would you find sunshine in Wales?
Just joking ....keep up the good work & postings....there are many around our great big PD world that love to read & view the build & progress :beer
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Thanks Derek for your kind comments.
Yes, the sun came out yesterday. I had to go outside and sample it. (even took my 'longjohns' off) ;D
It's great when you look forward to going in the shed. So much to do, and so little time eh!!
Ken
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Hi PD's..... :gathering...Ken ...in snap 36 we see 3 x 12 Volt gel cells......
a) are these to be used in powering the vessel?
b) good ballast when laid flat as we see in snap 37
c) Eddy mentions 'keep the weight down' :crash...which is valid......but in the end we may need more ballast :shoot
d) does the hull manufacturer provide a nominated total model displacement?
e) do you have a planned drive system?.....tell us more !!!!!!!!!!!
PS.... this was the sunshine in OZ today :vacation... being the QEII birthday long weekend :nahnah
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Thanks for the continuing build Ken.Much apreciated. dont worry about web space- detailed builds like yours are what the site is all about. keep up the good work. Gosh, those wheels look much better without the rims!. regards, walter.
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Hi Derek
The batteries are part of a consignment I recently obtained from an alarm company. They change them regardless on annual services and have trouble disposing of them, so they tend to give them away. :D
I am concerned about the weight problem, so I shall be inflating my toy swimming pool today for a float test. These batteries are indeed great for ballast, so I have fitted a compartment in ready for them.
Glad you like my 'rimless' version, Walter. There is obviously more technology from the old days that I don't know about. The fitting of the paddle blades was a nightmare. I now wish I had made the blades to protrude further out than they are. It doesn't look like the scoop of water will be large enough for a bit of power to get her moving well. We shall see, as they say. ump! The nuts are glued on now.
Must go, that damn sun has come out again. ;D
ken
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The pool is inflated and filled and we're ready to go.
Today I placed the 'valuable project' into the water and she floated. :) I then started ballasting her until she came down to marks
Unfortunately, I forgot there was portholes very low down and went to fetch some batteries. When I returned the ship was at the bottom of the pool. :-[.
The ship was dried out and the portholes were taped over and we tried again. I am pleased to report that she will take a total ballast of 7 Kilo, which was two and a half 7 A.hr batteries. Very impressive, as I can run her on one large battery and have all the extras I was planning on. (40) (43)
I noticed that the paddle wheel were not very low in the water, and would like to ask if you think I should fit them lower down please. I have placed a twig against them to show the water height.(41) (42)
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It was then off to the workshop to design a bench seat, as I need a large number of these so I had to find the simple way of mass producing them.
here are a few samples made from plastic. (47) till my wife said 'why don't you make them of wood'
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While this was going on. I had to make the extra pointy bit on the Bow, as it was not produced on the original Hull. I made plastic strips and secured them around the pointy bit and then filled it with car repair paste, which 'went off' in 6 minutes. I'll see what it sands down like tomorrow. (45) (46)
Back to the benches... Once we had got the design in our head it was 'off and running'. I made about 23 before I called it a day. (44) ....back to the beer time.
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Hi PD's....& Ken asks.....
noticed that the paddle wheel were not very low in the water
:hammer...this is a tough question Ken
1) One would have thought that with the hull & wheel set by the one manufacturer :whistle..the wheel shaft axis should be in the correct location
2) A Forum search for "wheel depth in water" will reveal hundreds of comments.....although none are really definitive
3) The Ivor Bittle WEB site makes reference in calculations and althought correct is more academic ........than visual scale
4) Many older plans indicate one blade fully immersed by say + 20% of the blade height @ the 6.0 o'clock position....plus one blade entering & one blade exiting the water by say 20% of blade immersion
5) Try looking a the OZ "Float a Boat" WEB site & scroll to the paddler sections...you will see what I mean..although I acknowledge these OZ paddlers were river craft & Waverley was designed for deep sea work
6) There are also other comments in the Forum referencing TOO deeper blade immersion & the results of this
So :thinking about all of this Ken.....I would be inclined to suggest maintaining the manufacturers wheel float sizings & wheel shaft axis....then final tuning could be accomplished via the floats if needed........... :clap
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Hi Derek.
I'm inclined to agree with you, although the plans are copies of the original Waverley design at half scale, and not model build plans.
I have taken off measurements and transferred them to my model, so in effect, copying the proper ship. This is where they have their drive shaft, so it seems to be right. When the windows are in, I can ballast down, like you suggest to ensure a paddle and a half are submerged.
I'm planning the rudder next, as I have to totally construct it myself. I'm going for a balanced rudder with a brass each side of the post, as this was advised as the best solution.
Ken
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Evening PD's..... I understand it may sound :shoot...Ken...but have you back checked scale dimensions of your hull?
Your 'square on' snap of the STDB sponson box house of the vessel in the pool with the float level on top suggests the sponson house is approx X 3.5 times the length of the wheel diameter
In many photographs of Waverley....the same relationship appears as say 6:1
Naturally this could be a combination of younger or older build or and distorted 'landscape' style photographs
:sorry...only real way to determine all this is to count & compare the window frames & spacing between bow to stern
:goodluck .....:beer...Derek
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Hi Derek,
I purchased the Boxes as complete moulded sections and when compared to the drawings I didn't think they were exactly the shape of the original. I shall have another look and post a picture when I get back to the workshop.
I must admit I imagined there were walkways around the sides. One side is longer than the other, and although they are temporarily taped on for the picture, I figured they should meet the doorways cut into the deck. These are correct to the drawings and also the windows are exactly right.
It's mid morning here in Wales and the sun is out (3rd day in row ...my goodness!) so I'm not in a work mode yet. :whistle
Ken
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Well, once I got in the workshop, there was no stopping me. I've been working like a dog all day.
First the query on the paddle boxes. Upon inspection of the drawings it appears there are side pieces to be added. I cut them out and placed them on top of the boxes and the length just grew and grew, See pics (48) (49) (50)
Looks more like it now eh !! Thanks for that Derek, I need all the help I can get. ;D. I shall be securing the boxes and extra bits soon. I've yet to sand the hull to remove the flashing and production errors.
I removed one error today, when I notice one porthole out of line. Had to refill the hole and will relocate it when the filler is dry.
Decided to fit the edging strips around the deck access holes, ready for the cabins above. When they are dry, I can cut the cabins walls and fit them exactly to this surround. it should then be a waterproof type of seal, or at least, splash proof. (51) (52)
Ken
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I then filed down the filler on the Bow and refilled the gaps to raise the surface and match the hull. A bit more smoothing down and we shall have a new raised Bow end.(53)
Did a bit of sanding on my home made bench seats by curving the chair section to accommodate the passengers legs. Can't have them getting uncomfortable, can we. 8) I drew some parallel lines across them to simulate wood planks and plan to stain them and varnish to match. I understand these are in fact some sort of life saver when thrown into the sea. There are supposed to be cords hanging from them to grab hold of in the water, but I don't know if this is being too fussy to build them !
Ken
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A couple of photos of a model of the Waverely in the Glasgow Transport Museum, which hopefully give a much better idea of how the paddleboxes/sponsons should look.
I hope they help?
Regards
Eddy
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Superb ........................ Just what I wanted. a reference to the centre section. Thank you very much for that. Do you have any more pictures please that you can let me have.
I've noticed one serious error that I've made. The funnel section which lifts off, is actually at deck level. oh er! I've put a raised section in :( A water problem here if I flatten the hole.)
What is the recognised way of doing it please.
Ken
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The funnel section can be remedied - If the deck is getting more than the tiniest splash of water on it, it's getting too rough for most paddlers to sail....
Remove the raised coamings you've fitted, then add some ply supports around the opening that a flat deck section can rest on - Hopefully the photo below of one of my hydros will show the idea? The black pieces down either side support the deck/superstructure on this model....
Regards
Eddy
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Superb ........................ Just what I wanted. a reference to the centre section. Thank you very much for that. Do you have any more pictures please that you can let me have.
I probably have thousands of photos of Waverley Ken - But if you just type "Waverley" into a search engine you'll get all you could ever want..... Click on the following for an example from Google.
http://images.google.co.uk/images?um=1&hl=en&safe=off&q=waverley&btnG=Search+Images
Eddy
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I shall modify her as you suggest and keep out of the 'rough stuff' 8) ;D
I have been on Google and will be going there again for further info. A veritable mine of the stuff. Cheers.
Ken
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I also have several pictures taken over years (some before and some after the refit) just in case I ever wanted to see various details such as types of vents, the mounting at the base of the masts.... stuff I might want to see if I was building a model. I don't have everything, just what I could think of at the time that could be useful in the future....
for example, this is what the 'buoyant seats' look like (they're quite shallow and placed on top of a flat raft), and what the interior of the forward lounge was like before and now...
(by the way, not sure if the attachments are too big so feel free to resize, move or delete them as/if necessary)
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Those are great, Mick. Thank you very much. If you have any of the deck layout with positions of the structures, that would be needed next in my phase of the project.
I have just received two disks from Andrew in Glasgow which contain hundreds of shots of the real ship and also models which will aid my construction greatly. I really am grateful to you all. I'd better make a decent job of this one eh!!
I'm just getting over the Ebay start price of a Waverley of £4500. Being sold from my home town as well. perhaps there's money in this building lark. ;D
Ken
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Hi PD's....at first the model vessel PS Waverley @ 4500 UK pounds looks expensive & I imagined was @ scale proportions
Do I see the wooden top of the hand rails scaled up to 15" wide from the original?
..........- could be ......... :porkies.... :thinking the more you look....the more you find ...Derek
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Now 'That's' what I call large handrails............ 8)
Can't be right... surely
Ken
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Onwards with the woodworking today.
I've cut loads of semicircles from 3mm ply in readiness for the curved front wall of the first cabin. (54) These were then glued together, one on top of the other and crushed in the vice. Later, they were removed and sanded to a nice curve. (58) My reason for doing it this way was because I couldn't bend any type of wood that sharp without snapping it.
I then made the walls of the various cabins and glued in position to get a good fit. (55) (56) (57) The curved section was then added and braced into position. (58) and a new flat piece was cut for the funnel section. (59)
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As the funnels are standing on oblong boxes, I decided to make the platforms again using the bread and butter method of the previous design, so I had to cut loads of oblongs ready. (60)
These were then sanded in an oblong shape on the power tools and glued to the new funnel deck. To get an idea of the look, I used six tops from some old rattle paint cans to temporarily make some funnels. (61)
The top of the rear cabin was cut and glued to the side walls, but I notice that the wings are slightly curved. Must be a hot day. I'll see what it looks like tomorrow and decide what to do about it. (62)
I then marked out the paddle extension wings and cut them from ply. They are laid on to check the look at the moment. (64)
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My word, you don't hang around Ken!!
I'm impressed with your work so far..... Keep it up, it makes into a fascinating read, and will be a source of useful information for fellow paddlers for years to come.
You said you weren't sure that Waverley would be ready for our Paddler Day - At this rate it will have been sailing for a month before the event!! :hehe
Eddy
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Thanks eddy. I do tend to 'keep going'. It's so interesting, this build, that I keep starting another section while the first one is drying.
Can't sit in the sun and waste time, must keep going, you know.
I checked where you're having the paddle day and it's an awful long way for me. I really would like to come along (with or without a boat) but there might not be enough petrol left in the UK to get there. ::)
I've started duplicating this Blog on to the Mayhem site as well. Hope you don't mind. I just hope I've got time to actually build something. ;D
Ken
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Why on earth would I mind that your duplicating the build on Mayhem Ken? Certainly not, your doing a great job and it should be open to as wide an audience as possible!
If you think the build is interesting, just wait till she hits the water...... That magical beat of the paddles on the water, those lovely twin wakes from the paddles, the fact that you can see what makes the boat "go" rather than some silly prop hidden beneath the water - My god I could go on for hours.... :)
Eddy
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.... If you have any of the deck layout with positions of the structures, that would be needed next in my phase of the project....Ken
closest I have are these taken from tower bridge, though a pic from the high level walkway would have been better
*oh, didn't realise they were that big (Paintshop resizes them to fit in the screen) hope they're not too big - first one might make a good homepage 'random image' though :)
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*oh, didn't realise they were that big (Paintshop resizes them to fit in the screen) hope they're not too big - first one might make a good homepage 'random image' though :)
Consider it added to the random images Mick - Mind it may be a week or so until it eventually pops up! :kewlpics
Eddy
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Just the 'ticket', mjt60a. Super picture, So clear and detailed. This is the sort of thing I need.
I really am trying to get her right, as I want it to be a record of the great ship.
Today I noticed the warping of a piece of my 3mm ply. ( ? ) see picture (65). It took two heavy screwdrivers to split it off tidy, without damage.
This was due to my storage of the large sheet (8x2) on it's end. Silly me for ignoring previous advice about storing flat. I had to chisel the roof off (wonderful glue, this wood stuff) and now I shall have to buy another sheet of ply. This time I will cut it to more manageable sizes and store it flat. ;)
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Off to the builders merchants for another 8x4 sheet of 3.6mm ply. A nice flat piece. ;D
This time I cut it into smaller pieces, so it's down to 4x2 sheets. These will be stored flat until I need them. I then made a new roof for the rear cabin and have it under my 'powered' weights for the night. That should keep it flat. ;D (69)
I have bought a plastic steam engine kit and plan to use the piston side of things as a dummy above the electric motor. Here are the parts all laid out ready for construction. (66) (67) (68)
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Not sure about the dummy engine Ken..... I hope you'll take this in the way it's intended, and NOT as criticism.
Your already using fairly heavy ply for the superstructure and adding some internal detail and lighting etc. But you MUST keep an eye on the weight if you want to end up with a stable model to sail.... The dummy engine will add more weight, and could only ever be seen when the funnel section is lifted off. Secondly, the engine you have is nothing like those that are fitted to Waverley, it's about 100 years earlier in design...
I learnt the hard way about weight - spending almost two years building a paddletug which never ever sailed because it just wanted to roll over in even the gentlest of turns....
Regards
Eddy
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Hi Eddy
You are correct in what you say. It's a very old type of engine and there would not have been many parts I could have used. I thought it was a bit 'over the top' when I posted the info. It will not be added now. :whistle . I've got enough to do already.
Ken
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Come on Ken, where's todays update? I'm getting withdrawal symptoms here!! :sobbing
Only kidding mate :hehe
Eddy
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Waiting for this wood glue stuff to dry. :vacation I did try some superglue on some small bits and it seemed to work OK. Pictures tomorrow.
The sun came out, so I took advantage. I was getting a white palour to my skin. ;D
Ken
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While I'm here, can I ask a question, please.?
The captains cabin above the front saloon has a curved frontage which sweeps out to the wings and then runs parallel to the ship. Then it goes back in towards the cabin, leaving a space to walk through.
Is this rear side piece the same height as the front wall ?. I have done the curve pieces and have yet to fit the sloping outwards top section, so need to know if the rear board is sloping or just straight with a banister on it.
At the moment, it's all on the same level level.
Cheers...ken
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I assume you mean the bridge wings Ken?
If so, then yes they are the same height at the back as they are at the front - But the front section also has "weather boards" that slot into frames at about a 30 degree angle if the weather is really bad.
I've been trying to find a decent photo to show the bridge wings, but so far I can't - I know I have some, but it's a question of finding the CD with the damned things on!!
Eddy
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From what I can remember, Eddy, the weather boards are hinged and fold forwards/outwards on the bridge wings front and sides.
I always build a model to a specific period which could be interesting in WAVERLEY's case having had so many alterations during her career Sandy
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I'll bow to your greater knowledge Sandy, you may well be right....
Eddy
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A couple of photos of the Waverley's bridge wings which may help Ken - Photos are from Hans Freund (scotfriend) as I still haven't found mine!
Regards
Eddy
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good pictures! I have some too but no better than those (also, mine show only one windsceen wiper on the centre window with a circular type on the starbd window - and white deckhouse and bridge wing support frame!)
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Hi Pd's.
Thank you for the information. The pictures spoke a thousand words. I wondered what the bend was. I have built a shape to simulate this bit did not know the detail. See what you think as I continue the build.......
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Overnight, the gluing has taken place of the new flat roof on the rear cabin. (70) and I was able to proceed with the fitting of the Bridge deck and walkways. (71)
Here you will be able to see the 'wrap around shelter ' area, previously referred to. (72) I have kept the height the same all the way around as advised. There is a gentle curve on the bow end, with straight sides and back pieces,
I have found a suitable pipe for the funnels and have cut and angled them to suit. (hooray, a ship at last) (73)
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I have placed some furniture on board and taken a few snaps of the work so far. I enjoyed making the master staircase to the upper deck. This was made from 1.5 mm wood as steps, and was secured with superglue. (74 to 79)
Some mood shots from the waters edge are at (80) (81)
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Here is (80) (81)
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I had a man around to check the carpentry on the steps. (83) then it was time to start on the Paddle boxes.
First, I cut the slot for the shaft in the rear of the assembly and then lined it up with the hull. There was a ridge of fibreglass around the top of the boat which was cut back flush with the sides, to allow the top of the paddle box to lie flush. The hull was drilled with 3mm holes to allow the box to be bolted to the hull after applying epoxy resin, they were tightened down.
No turning back from here. (84) I then cut the sides from 3.6mm sheets and measured the angles (3 bends) to fit the plastic paddle box to the sides of the hull. Eight pieces were made and sized up ready to be fitted when the glue has dried. It does occur to me at this point that the lower tapered pieces are going to spend their time in water and be flooded when the paddle wheels start rotating ??. I might cover them with epoxy to preserve them and may be drill a few holes downward to let it escape ?
We then thought about this angled section on the windcheaters around the sides of the bridge and decided that as they were angled, to copy this with a piece of 2mm wood with a slope on it. It was epoxied in and clamped for the night. We shall smooth it down tidy tomorrow, and fit some imitation hinges to simulate a drop down section. (85)
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Coming along very nicely Ken, keep up the good work mate!
Now I've had my Waverley build "fix" I can go to bed happy :)
Regards
Eddy
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Change of design ;)
Thank you all for your letters of support for my little project. I also realise that the weight is getting critical, so I have changed the design a bit. Before I made any changes, I weighed her with all the fittings made to date just placed on top, and she weighs 8lbs, so far.
The 3.6 mm plywood was quite thin and nice to work with, but a lot of it tended to increase the weight a bit. I shall keep the rear cabin in timber as this section will be most used for engine maintenance and controls, and I don’t want it to fall apart. The wooden chairs will be hollowed out to lighten the load and the backs will be reduced in height to look more in scale with the model.
Out goes the wooden bridge deck so its start again with plasticard. Here are a few shots of the progress to date. (86) (87)
The rear access stairway was a little on the sturdy side and a bit out of scale, so this was removed and a new one fitted in its place. (88). I have veneered the upper deck instead of laying planks as I thought it would be lighter than rear wood.
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Those funnel supports are solid timber and quite heavy, so they will be drilled out. The funnels will be fitted into these holes and should be a securing fit and will make the assembly a bit lighter.
A light breeze should make her surf across the lake. ;)
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I think the move to plasticard to save weight is a good idea Ken - I know I keep harping on about weight all the time, but saving as much as possible up top will give a much more stable model that will be more of a pleasure to sail.
The weight you save can then be added to the bottom of the hull to bring her down to the correct waterline, and enhance stability.... You still have three months before our paddler day, so plenty of time to get it all sorted yet ;)
Regards
Eddy
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Hi Kenny,
Looking good . . . you won't regret building the superstructure with the plasticard. I made a mistake with my Director Class paddler, looked great but was rather sensitive.
I'm edging towards building a 1/48 Balmoral as my next build . . it was going to be a paddler but that may have to wait a little. I'll have to get my Comton Castle operational for September ?! ;)
Cheers
Chris
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One thing I forgot to mention Ken - Once you have got a paddler to sail nicely, you'll be hooked on the damned things! So start planning which one you want to build next!!
They have a charm all of their own - And ALWAYS attract attention when they are on the water, even from people that aren't interested in model boats, that's not something you can say of almost any other type of model.
Eddy
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I'm sure you're right Eddy. It was their beauty that attracted me, which is why I want to get it right. Plasticard was my original build material, so I've learnt a few tricks of the trade with the stuff. and get on well with it.
I plan to go for the four lifeboat version, but would like to keep the extended bridge section.
Sandystrone, Was there a period of time when this was possible please, or would I be making a scratch version ?
Ken
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She lost the port aft lifeboat/davits during the winter of 75/76. The starboard was removed in the mid 80's at the same time the wheelhouse was replaced I think.
Chris
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Channel,
I think you are about right with the dates for the aft lifeboats removal.
In 1975 she had green canvas covers and in 1976 they were orange before reverting to green again.
I built my two models of WAVERLEY, as she was in 1975 with 4 boats and without the deck locker aft that held the Calor gas cylinders instead of the coal fired galley.
Ken, I've a feeling that the funnels in 1975 were oval in section, not round, but I could stand corrected, Sandy
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Thanks for that, Sandy. I thought the drawings of the funnels were not quite 'round'. There doesn't seem to be much of an oblong, but it 'is' there. I shall have a go at flattening my drain pipes.
Nice to see you yesterday, Channel. Thank you for the photo's and all that information.Can't wait to get on with her today. So much to do ...etc. We are going for the four lifeboats version with an extended Bridge deck. This would make her at 1975.
I've even started cutting out the sliding doors for the Captain cabin, and now working on the curved bench seat around the front section.This is now all in plastic card, so should be a bit quicker to make. ;)
Ken
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Sorry Ken, the round bench seat in front of the for'd saloon was not on the 1975 version.
Apoligies for being critical, and I'm not one of the "rivet counters"! Sandy
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Today I got on with the plastic construction of the Bridge cabin. I’ve brought the computer to the workshop and ran the pictures donated by you guys. This one shows the bridge in super detail and by combining it with my drawings, I was able to get the sizes right and also identify some of the details. (91)
I’ve cut the window holes ready for glazing later after painting. (89) (90). I have also cut the lower cabins windows and door ways. (92)
Onwards to the funnels and how to fit them so they do not fall off. I’ve drilled out the bases to sink then down into the wood. Before this I had to make the tubes oblong by immersing them in boiling water and compressing them long ways by crushing the soft plastic into shape. (94) (93). There are no pictures of this process as I didn’t have any hands free.
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I had my tea break and thought I would do a bit of novelty work inside the cabin, so I’ve made some tables and cabinets for the crew to work at. The drawings don’t show it, but there is a wall dividing the cabin, fore and aft, so I’ve put a door, half open in between. (95)
According to the computer (the computer says Yes!!), my windows were a bit shallow so, I have increased the depth of them and constructed a circular bench seat to place in front. (96) It is only placed there, Sandy. I wanted to see what it looked like. I might remove it, competition time. ;)
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I then moved on to the paddle boxes and scrapped the two wooden versions I was building, all in the name of lightness. I have gone over to plastic and have made the top and bottom walkways for both sides and glued the on. (97) (98) (99)
This is the latest position at the moment, so I am taking a break for a week. :vacation (100)
Thanks for listening
Ken
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A heck of a lot of work done in a very short time Ken - So you probably need a break for a while now :)
It certainly is starting to come together and look the part now, a superb job...... Just remember September 21st is getting closer :whistle
Eddy
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Must be nice being retired Kenny!
Enjoy Poole!
Chris
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Did anyone notice that, before the new 'rivetted' funnels, waverleys forward funnel leaned back at a noticeably different angle compared to the aft one!
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Which boiler change led to the funnels going back wrongly ? Post 1975 ?
Chris
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I couldn't say, I first saw waverley in 1986 and they were like that then. They were welded funnels and I'd read somewhere that the forward one had been fitted first (to replace an older welded one) as the original was the more rusted of the two, then the aft one was replaced the following year - and the replacement had been built 'not quite the same'
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I've been looking for a photo showing the funnels and how (where, exactly) they attach to the bases (fiddleys?) but couldn't find the disc at the moment. However, here's a pic of my plans and as I suspected, the forward funnel sits at the front of its eliptical base and the aft one at the rear of its base (it says the plan is of the 1982 layout but I don't think this detail has ever changed)
**found one... the photo shows what I mean. not shown on the (my) plans are the hatches in the 'unused' part of the funnel bases
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According to the book I have on her history, one of the funnels was replaced during one of her many re-fits, I can't remember which one, but the replacement funnel was made of a thicker gauge metal, making it heavier. The result was the deck sank slightly resulting one of the funnels having a greater rake than the other one.
It all sounds a bit odd, but the book was written and published by the trust which owns her so I can only assume the information in there is correct.
Daryl
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This photo I took in 1973 shows the angles of the funnels.
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Is this photo any help, Ken
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I'm back from the old holidays.
Thank you for the pictures of the funnels, Sandy. I might make the front one on a pivot to operate either parallel or tilted back, depending on where I am. ;)
I went into Westbourne Models for £160 worth of gear and there seems to be some confusion as to the scale of my Waverley. I assumed it was 1/48 as the model is 59 inches long. Can anyone confirm this please.
I was buying portholes and used the measurement from my ships plans of the circles shown. This diameter is 7mm and hopefully is the hole size for the portholes. There would then be an outside diameter of the ring around the glass, thus making them appear larger. As they only had 8mm & 10mm & 12mm in stock, these were bought to try on the model.
It was quoted that at my scale, some of the portholes would be 2 foot across !! ???
This also got me concerned when it came to some companionways. Mine measure 20mm wide, but the available ones looked awful chunky ? so I've bought some different sizes to compare with the hull when I got home.
We should be alright with motor, as I've selected an MFA type with gear reduction of 50-1.
I notice the prices have increased with model gear lately and it's getting a bit much. I shall be following the 'scratch' route a bit more in the future. methinks !!
Must get on with the build. Thanks for listening.
Ken
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my method for portholes is this; buy some brass tube of the correct size and cut lots of pieces using a tube cutter (special miniature one, proops do them) then file the ends flat (ie de-burr them) then place them on a tray made of clear plastic type stuff as used for packaging for asda/morrisons/tesco apple turnovers (indeed, most electrical components supplied in 'blister packs' such as video connections etc).... also cut enough small squares of the same plastic to cover each porthole individually.
purchase a can of clear casting resin and some hardener and mix a small amount, pour some into each porthole, allowing it to set and seal the brass rings to the plastic. then mix up some more and fill each one until the resin forms a 'dome' on top. allow time for the air bubbles to escape before placing a square of plastic on each porthole and pressing it down so it's in contact with the brass (unfortunately I don't think I have any photos of this process but it's fairly straightforward..)
when the resin is set HARD (about 2 days later) peel off the plastic squares and remove the portholes from the tray. chip away any excess resin from the outsides with a stanley knife and they're ready to use!
I'd now push them into holes drilled to take the brass tube so they're flush with the hull and run araldite all around the inside (of the hull) edges of the portholes to ensure a watertight seal.
rivets can be simulated by drilling 8 holes around the porthole-hole and araldite pieces of rod into them, this can be filed almost to nothing before painting and THEN adding the portholes.
For portholes on superstructure (where the flange is outside the ship) I use paper thin styrene sheet. Cut out a disc about 2mm radius larger than the porthole (use a piece of brass tube which has been sharpened by filing, press into the styrene on a base of scrap balsa or an old eraser) then cut a hole in the centre to form a ring (use a piece of the same tube used for the portholes) simulate rivets by pressing a centrepunch into the back of the styrene ring and glue onto the ship with the raised rivets facing out. Paint and then add the portholes.
Here's a couple of pics of the finished result...
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Your hull is definately 1/48 scale Ken - or as near as makes no difference.... Waverley is 240 feet long, so 240/48 = 5 feet (or 60").
Regards
Eddy
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Hi PD's....Ken...some model supplier manufacturers quote the glass diameter as the porthole size & some offer the outer bezel diameter as the size...which is pretty bl~~dy :crash stupid
Some manufacturers quote complete with a glass disk....but how could Super Glu melt glass? :ranting
Waverley has so many portholes....they need to be totally uniform to look the part
One of the confusing points about model scale is.......a typical hand rail staunchen post @ 1:48 for a river vessel will be of totally different height to a 1:48 scale ocean vessel
Try the 'Robbe' brand...I think you will find the real diameter porthole sizing you are after also real glass disks & negate the nominated scale
You are doing a great build :clap - Derek
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Hi PD's...just going back one step :sorry...with Waverley having so many portholes on near waterline by splash :hammer...who would want the vessels watertight integrity left to SUPERGLOOED glass disks in brass frames...or brass porthole frames secured to the hull in a similar manner? :nono
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I like your portholes, MJ. I might have a go at this. Mike at Waverley models likes this method of clear epoxy. Seems a bullet proof way keeping the water out. 8)
I put the purchased versions up against the model and the 8mm ones seem to be correct, so all is well. (didn't buy enough..oh er!). Derek, you're right about sizes. I walked right into this one. Good job I had not drilled out the hole larger. ::) Also, I agree with leakage problems, so it seems prudent to epoxy the holes and fit the brass on the outside
Thanks for the size confirmation, Eddy. Now we know where we are. I did measure the parts before going on my shopping spree, so they are roughly the same sizes obtained, and don't look too bad on the model.
When I looked this morning, I could see all sorts of errors. I haven't seen her for a week, so it was like viewing it for the first time. I shall be correcting these before I go any further. (light coloured planking on the upper deck indeed !!). Must find some green paint. ::)
Ken
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This web site was sent to me by Pioneer, on the Mayhem site.
It is absolutely brilliant. A 3D tour of the Waverley.
http://www.aetours.co.uk/waverley1/
I shall have my work cut out now, as I don't have any more excuses. :beer
Cheers...Ken
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Got another one for you Ken,
birds eye view of the funnel tops! Sandy
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Thank you for the picture, Sandy. Most unusual shot. Much appreciated as I don't expect many people have seen her from this view.
I've got back into gear and opened up the workshop again. On with the scruffy clothes and radio on with a cup of tea.
Today I thought I would make a trolley for the new boat as she is 62 inches long and could be a bit unwieldy on the way to the lake.
I have acquired a disused child's wheelchair and stripped it down of non essential bits. I then sanded it down and sprayed it brown. I then made a stand for the boat and attached some steel legs to insert in the trolley. This has been painted gold and is drying nicely out in the sun. (101) (102) (103)
This is removable, so the boat can stay on it and the trolley collapses for easy car transporting. My wife says " no matter how much you try to disguise it, it still look like a wheelchair" Our workshop now looks like a clinic. :whistle
Back in the workshop, I considered the lifeboats and how to make them. I have tried various methods and am running three types of design. (105) (105) (106)
I have opted for the carved out of solid wood version and have produced four. They are carved out inside and benches have been fitted. I then glued some thin veneer around the top outside edge and clamped this to the keel/ end posts. They have been set aside to dry overnight. (108) Tomorrow I shall sand down the outside keel frame to a modest size.
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Whoops We were laughing so much I forgot the pictures.
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the rest of em!!
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Good to see your back in the swing of things Ken - Hopefully suitably refreshed after your break?
Still looking very good!
Regards
Eddy
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The four lifeboats are sanded down and seats fitted, so it was out with the undercoat. They dried out nice during the night and filled the flaws quite nicely, so today I applied the top coat (109)
The funnels have three colours so, as the top was black, I decided to keep the original plastic colour here and taped off ready for the other colours. I sprayed the funnel tubes with red oxide and it's drying nicely. (110)
To continue on the paddle boxes, I've decided to re fit the wooden tops to them, as this will bring their height up to deck level. (111) (112)
I shall be fitting edging strips around them to improve their look. Also planned, is to fit a sealed cover under the inside edge to make airtight boxes around the wheels, so if she should heal over, it might help keep her afloat. ;)
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Details of the Lifeboat construction
The life boats are small enough not to worry about their weight, so I decided not to use Balsa wood. I used a close grain lump of timber about 2" x 2" x 6" and just whittled away until they looked right. The only details I had were the length of the boats from the plans. I'm not sure what the wood was, but having seen the result, I thought I might use a classy piece next time to leave unpainted and show the grain when varnished.
Mind you, I had a ton of chippings on the floor when finished. The power tools used were unbelievable.
First there was the power saw, followed by the powered fretsaw, to cut the block down to a rough boat type of shape. The outside was then sanded with a circular sander and smoothed with a powered sanding belt and finished off with a small file and then hand sanded down smooth.
The insides of the lifeboat were then drilled out with a vertical power drill using a 1/4 inch drill all around the inside edge to a variable depth to suit the curvature of the hull. I actually ruined one boat by drilling right through to the outside edge, so it was back to the start for another one. (I wish I'd made a spare when I had to tools set up !!)
This was followed by a modified wood drill (with a flat top) fitted in the power bench drill to gouge out the insides. The piece being held in the hand whilst doing this. The vibrations were quite something, and 'Health and safety' would have been horrified to watch. The wood was quite hard so it stood up to this kind of savage treatment.
The rough insides were then fettled smoother with a hand held Dremmel sanding drum, and finally smoothed out with sandpaper.
I then made the little bench seats from thin planking wood and glued them in place. The keel was a one piece of three ply, 3.6mm thick which was fret sawed to surround the boats and sanded to ensure a snug wrap around and glued in place. I then glued an edging strip around the bulwarks. When dry the edges were power sanded about 3mm all around the hull to simulate the keel and rudder posts. The tiny gaps were filled with wood filler and sandpapered to a smooth exterior.
The boats were then sealed with red oxide spray a few times, and the top coat of white was gradually sprayed on a little bit at a time during the day so as not to produce any runs. During the gap in production, I was making a plank on frame version. I had cut the frames out and glued them to the keel and was placing a plank on with super glue every hour. These were held in place with little clamps and was very labour intensive. I'm now up to the top level on both sides and looks quite 'boaty' Pictures to follow.
Part two involves fitting the hand held ropes all around the edges and not forgetting the rowlocks and oars. I'll let you know how I get on.
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It was a nice warm day today, so it called for more painting. I have masked off, and sprayed the funnels. (113) Also painted again were the lifeboats. These now have a coat of brown on the inside and the outside sprayed white, yet again. (it all adds to the smoothness of the finish)
Further work was done strengthening the paddle boxes. I have secured the lower fins (it’s what I call them) which taper to the hull from the curved sections, by fitting a small length of wood underneath to contact the hull, all epoxied in.
I noticed that there were three little portholes under this section already cut out, so I have re filled them with epoxy car filler. We don’t want windows below the water line now, do we?
The rear cover for the rudder was then covered in veneer to simulate wood planks. This is my first attempt at this caper so it’s good to start on something small. Good job I chose this as the learning curve is quite steep. So much can go wrong. Glue leakage going on the fingers and being transferred back to the veneer’s top surface. Ugh!!! No pictures yet.
I am now awaiting potholes and other things, so the building is paused until they arrive.
The parts built so far were then assembled on the model and taken out into the sun for some more movie clips to be made. These will be added together and edited for another ‘You tube’ build
Here are a few stills of the progress so far. (114) (115) (116)
If you can see any mistakes in the design, I would appreciate you telling me now before I start painting the hull and fitting permanent things.
Cheers for now. Ken
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Hi PD's ......& Ken mentions .....
"I noticed that there were three little portholes under this section already cut out, so I have re filled them with epoxy car filler. We don’t want windows below the water line now, do we?"..
I have looked in the Y2000 & Y2003 Waverley drydocking snaps but cannot see any reference
It is possible that these below water line ports were modeled off the engine condenser sea water suction & discharge which some static models include.... :hammer ...........Derek
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....If you can see any mistakes in the design, I would appreciate you telling me now before I start painting the hull and fitting permanent things....
...before I forget, some pictures that may be of interest;
http://flickr.com/photos/seapigeon/189925377/sizes/o/ - a good view of the whole ship from above...
http://psps1.mysite.wanadoo-members.co.uk/2005.htm - check out the 'drydock' pics!
The model's looking good so I hate to be negative at all.... but....
have you tried fitting the paddlewheels in there lately? the bearing (if that's what I'm looking at in the side view picture) is starting to look a little bit high up inside the paddlebox now that it has the wooden decking on top of it. On the real ship it looks to be about a foot or so above the deck in the engineroom alleyways... just a thought!
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Thank you for the info, Derek. I'm sure you're right. I've filled them in as they won't be seen anyway, behind the paddles.
You are also correct, mjt60a, about the bearings location. I thought this when I was doing the surrounds recently. They are a high and look wrong, so they will be corrected. The drawings do not actually show the exact position so they were estimated from the box design. The paddles are awaiting 'Loc tight' to hold the nuts in place, so have not been fitted yet.
I've been to the Waverley site and examined the pictures of her recent repairs. (thanks for telling me about the update .......just not enough time to cover everything!). My oh my, what a wealth of detail there. Great.
The portholes arrived this morning, so it's back to the dungeon for a gluing session. Also, some oars arrived. These are cheaper to buy than actually sit and make, and they look the part as well.
Cheers...Ken
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Being a lazy sod, when I make my portholes, I can't be bothered to cut up brass tube so I use brass olives and fill them with clear cast resin before inserting them into a hull.
You know the type of olives, they are used on compression pipe fittings and can be bought from a plumbers merchant in boxes, separate from the pipe fittings (in different sizes).
Also I don't like the Bondaglass clear cast resin, my model shop sold me a Swedish brand - can't remember the name of it - which was much superior. Sandy
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Thank you for all your comments. I do agree with ones about the shaft location. This is indeed a little high, so the bearings were removed and the holes filled in. A new location hole was drilled, along with the matching one the other side. My little pocket Laser came in handy here. These were then fitted with a new set of bearings which were glued in to the new location. (117)
Here you can also see the wood sections that I’ve fitted, to strengthen up the paddle boxes. These are thin 3ply glued on to the existing plastic ones. I then fitted an edging strip from thin timber all the way around the edges to finish it off.
I had acquired 70, 6mm plastic portholes and laid them on a sheet of plastic. I then mixed up some clear epoxy and spoon fed a drop into each hole and left overnight. Two days later, the stuff had not set, so I set about scraping it back out and ruined them, so they are now in the bin. I like you idea about the brass ones, Sandy, so I might pursue this avenue.
While the glue was drying I made a stand assembly for her from thicker 3 ply and glued it all together and left clamped all night. The next day I cut up a mouse mat for the rubber strips and glued these on to the curves to hold the boat without scratching the paintwork.
The paddle boxes were sealed around the edges and sanded down smooth ready for painting. The hull was also smoothed over and various bumps and gaps were filled and sanded down. (119) (120)
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It was then out with my favourite paint, the old red oxide undercoat. This was gently sprayed on throughout the day, to gradually build up a smooth coat with no runs. (121)
The next day I partially assembled the bits and pieces to get an idea what she might look like, and also continue with a few more movie shots to be added to the film of her. (122) (123) (124)
I am presently working on the paddles, and lining them up to fit the blade moving mechanism, so as to be feathering. I notice that there are a few problems here and have given up for the day.
Primarily, I’ve decided the blades could be a few millimetres wider so as to catch as much water as possible. This now involves taking them apart and making new blades. A good job I didn’t loc-tight all the screws, methinks. I’ve only used it on the blades so far.
I also have the problem of where to secure the bearing for the feathering mechanism. If I secure it to the paddle boxes, then there is a risk of vibration shaking then from the hull. I plan to fit a brass strip to the hull and bring it out along the outside edge of the wheels. This would have to be removable to allow the wheels to be fitted and removed, if desired.
This model is a million problems as there are no detailed plans to work to, and it’s all scratch build. Great fun. We shall overcome.
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It's really starting to look like Waverley now Ken... Obviously there's still a lot to do, but my suggestion would be to fit the motors and radio gear and give it a test on the water. At least then it gives you a chance to make any modifications before it becomes impossible to alter. You can simply cover all the windows and portholes with some tape for a short test.... The good bit is you eventually get to see it sailing, which should also inspire you - As if you need it!! :hehe
Regards
Eddy
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....I had acquired 70, 6mm plastic portholes and laid them on a sheet of plastic. I then mixed up some clear epoxy and spoon fed a drop into each hole and left overnight. Two days later, the stuff had not set, so I set about scraping it back out and ruined them, so they are now in the bin....
Ah, sorry about that, if I'd known you were going to attempt making some I would have gone into more detail about how I made mine...
this stuff generates quite a lot of heat as it sets and will usually melt plastic parts (as I found out to my cost) so I only use it in metal portholes!
very small quantities of regular casting resin don't set no matter how much hardener is used, you have to use a resin designed for 'tiny' castings. I used Trylon EM400PA for mine - http://www.trylon.co.uk/products.asp?cid=6&sid=20 - once opened it doesn't keep very long (compared to, say, resin for use with fibreglass mat) so I get the smallest quantity I can and usually use a quarter of it at best (the rest turns to jelly and is wasted - and it's not cheap!), but the hardener (catalyst) keeps for ever, I still have the first and only bottle of it I ever bought.
even when set I find the surface, if it's left exposed to the air, remains sticky for months (don't know why, it says it 'always dries tack-free' on the specs but maybe casting such items are asking a lot of it!) that's why I lay a small piece of clear whatever-it's-called (plastic used for 'blister packs') on top of each porthole. The alternative I suppose would be to fill them to a 'dome' of resin on top which can be sanded off and polished, but my way saves time :)
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Thank you Eddy. yes, it's taking shape. I love putting the other parts on temporarily, it's so encouraging. :D Makes the slog worth it.
I've converted to brass portholes (in my mind), so will be sourcing them soon. When they are in it will be like you say, watertight. I have my kiddies paddling pool ready for more float tests.
What a learning curve, mjt. Didn't know much about epoxy, and it all looked simple. ::) I wondered why I had to move the spray can lid outside the workshop because it was burning my fingers. ???
Ken
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I've converted to brass portholes (in my mind), so will be sourcing them soon. When they are in it will be like you say, watertight. I have my kiddies paddling pool ready for more float tests.
One of the problems with paddlers is their tendency to heel over in a turn, and not come back upright when the rudder is centered - So I would seriously suggest you get it on a piece of open water and try a few turns to check stability. Things can often look fine when the model is sitting stationary, or simply moving in a straight line..... I know from experience!! :(
Just pick a calm day, and be gentle with the rudder until you see how it performs - shallow water is best so a rescue can be done if the worst happens!!
Regards
Eddy
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I must admit this is the one thing that worries me about paddlers. To this end, I have made the spaces in the boxes airtight, each side of the wheel. Hopefully this will create a little bouyancy should they dip in the water.
ken
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The bow section was queried by a few of you. Mine has a curve towards the top, and this is shown on picture. (125)
The actual ship shows a straight bow all the way upwards. See picture. (126)
Today was spent sanding it down and re spraying and she now looks like this. (127) I’ve placed a steel rule against her and she looks the Biz.
I have, however, noticed that the top section does not seem to go back far enough, compared with the real ship. It does conform to the drawings though. What do you think I should do ?
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Personally I'd cut off the fibreglass bulwark and replace it with some 1/32" ply to give the correct length, but perhaps the bulwark was extended when she was rebuilt? Hopefully someone with more knowledge of her than me can answer that?
It all depends on how accurate you want it to be - I doubt that anyone would actually notice when the model is completed anyway....
Regards
Eddy
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Thanks Eddy, the original hull did not have this section built on to the hull. I had to do this myself. That's why it looks so wrong. ::)
I will be extending it to match the original ship, rather than faithfully following the drawings.
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The strange thing is that even the slightest error will stand out like a sore thumb to you, but 99.9% of people will never notice the errors. So at the end of the day it's down to you how much time you want to put into it to get everything just so...
That's the downside of choosing such a well known ship - that there are more people who might just notice the mistakes :sobbing
Eddy
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I've been quiet for a few days as I have been working on this alteration.
Isn't it upsetting when you have to cut apart your work? I've removed the pointy bit and cleaned back the top deck line. The new section was made from plastic card, by glueing four sheets together and cutting to size. This assembly was repositioned and clamped in with epoxy resin and left to set. I've just removed the clamps and it looks much better today. Pictures to follow.
My new portholes have arrived. These will replace the ruined plastic ones and are made of brass and look very smart indeed. They come complete with window glass, so there's a saving on detail work. 8). I shall be fitting them after the painting of the hull so as not to ruin the appearance.
I'm also re-working the paddle blades soon and have to select a suitable material. The recommendation was originally mahogany strips, but this was changed to plastic. I thought mine were a bit bulky, so were sanded down, and now are not wide (deep) enough.
Ideally, I would like brass sheet, which could be curved at the ends to make an effective drag. This might improve the pulling power at slow revs., so I'm off to the shops to see what's available.
Ken
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The new front piece has dried out nice and firm and was sanded down flat to the hull. The anchor chain holes were then reamed out to match each side. (128).
My word isn’t brass expensive!! Today I bought a piece to make the rudder with. (This piece was five times as long as I needed.) I’ve also obtained some pipes which fit snugly in each other, to be used for the rudder post and shaft.
I flattened one end and cut two pieces of sheet brass and curved them to fit around the flattened end of the tube. Holes were drilled and the insides edges were roughed up ready for the epoxy filling. It was then bolted and clamped together and left overnight to set. (129)
I then re sprayed the hull again in red oxide, so now I back to where I was a few days ago. (130)
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I know your going to hate this Ken.... But I still think the bow bulwarks are too short. If you look at the following images, 126 shows the real ships bow (I've rotated the image so it's the same way round as your photos), 127 shows how your bulwarks looked originally, and then 130 shows how they are now.....
I hope you can clearly see that it's still not right. :(
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The new size was calculated by using the proportions of the real ship on one of my many photos. I agree that it still looks wrong and will try again (3rd time lucky)
You don't suppose they actually altered the real ship at some time ?? There is also a query with the number of portholes. My picture shows 6 before you get to the square windows, so I've added an extra one. I shall fill it in and revert back to 5, so that the curve drop lines up between the first two.
ken
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The number, and the position of the portholes, certainly changed throughout her life Ken - This is clear if you study photos from known years.
Wether or not the bulwarks were modified in length is open to arguement I feel.....
I'm off to bed now before I depress you any more! :sorry
Eddy
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Hello Kenny and all PD's,
I've been watching the progress on your build Kenny and eagerly await each and every addition. Having never been on the Waverly (or English soil for that matter (currently English soil ;D)) I can't contribute any personal experience as to actual measurements of fittings aboard the boat, but I would like to offer an observation. Rather than the bow bulwark being too short, is it possible that it is too tall? thus giving the impression of being too short? Unless the square windows have been placed way too far forward, the proportion of bulwark length looks to be close.
Just my uneducated observation.
Keep up the great work and we all truly appreciate the wealth of photographic documentation. (evidence!)
Cheers guys, Randy
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I think Randy has hit the nail on the head Ken.....
It seems that the bulwark is simply too tall - To confirm this, I searched the web for a good "side-on" view of Waverleys bow (not at a slight angle as in my previous post).
So, if we take the distance from the bow to the front of the first saloon window as 100% to remove the effects of images at different scales, we can then work out the percentage of the bulwark in relation to this distance - Ignore the portholes, they changed positions so can confuse the issue.
This shows the real boats bulwark is 32.96% of the measurement from bow to saloon window
The original model bulwark is 22.35%
And the modified bulwark is 32.38%
So there you have it - 32.96% (real vessel) and 32.38% (modified model), as near as damn it the same, so you have the length correct! It just needs to be reduced in height and bingo!! :)
Regards
Eddy
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Oops!
I've just thought... If Ken doesn't read my last post before he rips off the bulwarks, I may just have to make a grovelling apology :darn
Eddy
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Hi Ken
Just been reading your build reports, what a great way of sharing progress!
Model coming on well, it seems yet another Paddleduck who puts me to shame in making progress with getting models built!
Further to Eddy and Randys comments I just read, I thought I would add that the top of the Spirket Plate (as that raised piece of bulwark around the bow is called) is 42inches above deck level on the real ship with a 2inch deep wooden capping rail on top. So at 1:48 scale this should be 22.225mm from deck level (top of frames/underside of the wooden decking) to underside of capping rail. Also, the real ship has a 6inch upstand around the edge of the hull forming the outer wall of the waterway round the edge of the deck, so taking this 6inch off the height of the spirket plate gives 36inches above the top edge of the hull, which at 1:48 is 19.06mm
I spent many hours with tape measure and camera wandering round an out of service Waverley, and as a result have a very good plan direct from the source for the ship under construction on CAD at home!
I could tell you as well the length the Spirtket Plate should be from the stem, and from the windows too if needed, but as you've already rebuilt it once you probally dont want to know! Anyways, I agree with the others in that it looks pretty near perfect in length as youve got it now!
Keep up the good work, and keep us posted! Cheers, Andrew
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Thank you for all your comments on my build. They are much appreciated, as I am learning as I go along, so please keep them coming in.
Reference the pointy bit on the bow, known as the Spirket plate, I awoke at 3 o’clock this morning and it hit me like a thunderbolt. After warming the tea pot and re looking at her pictures, I realised the shape was too high. The length was bound to be right as I had proportioned it from some pictures of the real ship. You were right, Randy. You must be telepathic. No apologies necessary, Eddy, I also knew it didn’t look right, but ‘I couldn’t see what was wrong’. The new height was calculated at 22mm, so well done to you, Andrew. I don’t think I’ll worry about the 0.2mm either way.
Bright and early next morning, I shuffled out to the workshop and lasered a new line across and cut off the top bit. I then filled the anchor hole and relocated it to deck level. (131). A bit of filler and a re spray and she now looks better. (132) especially when I laid the capping rail across it to line up with the stanchion height. I even put my little ‘Man’ behind the rail and his little elbows rested on the rail nice.
I’ve decided to stick with my original picture of 1975 and keep the 6 portholes as they do look the business.
It was then time to move to the stern for a bit of work. I drilled out the rudder hole for the outer brass tube and secured it in epoxy in a wood block. (132) Turning her over I laid some more filler around the hull to build up a section to surround the new brass rudder. I’ve left this to dry overnight and will work it to shape and blend it to the hull to make a smooth flow for the water. (134)
Hope I sleep better tonight.
Ken.
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Thats cracked it Ken - reducing the height has made all the difference!!
Just one question, will you be using one drive motor, or two with independent paddles? The reason I ask is that you'll probably find the rudder far too small with fixed paddlewheels. Mind you, that can be experimented with on the water later, so it's not a major issue right now.
Well done yet again...
Eddy
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Hello Kenny and PD's,
Kenny states, I awoke at 3 o'clock this morning and it hit me like a thunderbolt.
and You were right, Randy. You must be telepathic.
I submitted my post at 6:31 pm PDT which puts me 7 hours after you. That would mean that I posted my comment at 1:31 am your time. Unless you were restlessly tossing and turning for 1-1/2 hours going over this dilemma in your sleep, it's too close to call as far telepathy is concerned. But I would like to quote a friend who says , "Great minds think alike." :D
In regards to the rudder department; There are a number of ways to approach this problem. As we know, while we can scale down everything else in regards to modeling, i.e. length, width, depth, and weight, we cannot scale down water itself. So, a model boat will not respond as readily as the full scale boat we are modeling. Therefore we have to enlarge the rudder and increase prop/wheel rotation to simulate scale speed and maneuverability. Some have overcome this by (A) enlarging the rudder, (B) making a static display rudder that is interchangeable with a R/C rudder, or (C) making an attachable rudder that goes over or attaches to the static display rudder.
Depending on accessability, you may consider option (B) and if you have limited access to your rudder, then (C) may be the easier choice. If you are not overly concerned about things being 100% true to scale then (A) requires the least amount of work in order to sail the ship.
All these are things you may want to consider at this point in your build.
Randy
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Hey Kenny,
After reviewing pictures 120 and 124, it looks like you have a good sized access panel in the deck over the rudder, so you may want to consider the interchangeable rudder option.
Randy
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Hi Eddy. I am using a 50/1 ratio motor, driving a pulley belt to a single drive shaft. I understood from knowledge gained so far (on this site) that independent wheel drive is a No No.
However, that said, I have a built in problem with the construction and fitting of the wheel feathering system being built on the outside edge.
If I only have one shaft then it cannot be slid sideways to release the wheel, as it won't push through the opposite wheel feathering gear. ??
My thoughts on this were to cut the shaft and rejoin it inside the boat with a coupler. of course, this will need a second set of internal bearings to stabilise the system. This would create two shafts (as one) should I decide to go the twin motor route.
Hi randy. Yes indeed the blade is a little small. Here we go again ......... it's a good job I have all that spare metal left over. I shall relocate the rudder shaft inwards and make a bigger rudder. I know how to do it after my first attempt, so will devise a better blade.
I would like it to be within the length of the boat and not hanging over the back, when it swings over it should create enough water drag to turn her about. (I suppose a Bow thruster is out of the question ..... only joking !)
Ah well, must try to get a little sleep :whistle
Ken
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Hi Ken,
About "I understood from knowledge gained so far (on this site) that independent wheel drive is a No No."
I think that if you can work an independent drive for each wheel in the boat you will be better off. I don't have a current Paddler, but I operate John B's Steam warping tug often enough that when I build one I will try to incorporate independent drive. Most scale competitions allow a 10% increase over scale size on operational models.
Regards,
Gerald
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Entry of the “Super Rudderâ€
There was enough spare copper plate to ‘wrap around’ the existing rudder. This has been roughed up on the insides and epoxied into place, and finely polished to a nice finish. The existing bearing tube was left in the same position, which gave a balanced rudder of about a third on the pivot point.
I might leave this unpainted as it looks quite nice is situ. (135) (136).
I had purchased 10,000 match sticks recently (I don’t know why either!!) and was looking at the seats that are needed for the decks and it occurred to me that they would look nice with slats on them.
Sunday was spent cutting and gluing and staining. I have made the backrests and they are drying separately, and have yet to be added. (137) The little oars have been painted white. Pity I put the ‘Stanley knife’ through my finger. When the superglue breaks off, I’m hoping for a good result!!
I do rather fancy the twin motor idea. The ship will be operated in close quarters, so manoeuvrability will be paramount. Oh well, another £20 geared motor, I suppose. A quick thought on this problem was to fit a differential gearbox, but life is too short for this sort of work.
Ken
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Woodwork time
Today I opened the matchstick container and laid out a few for the construction of the seats. (138).This involved laying 4 match sticks out with a tiny gap between them onto some sticky tape, upside-down. Small cross members were then cut and super glued sideways across them. When dried they were sanded smooth along their edges and wood stained. Next time, I will stain the wood first because I found, that where there was glue, it would not stain very nice, and left white patches.
The rear support pieces were then sanded at an angle and butt joined together to cause a sloping back to the seats. The original ‘backs’ were removed with a chisel and these new sections were then glued to the seats, which already had strips glued across them, and the whole lot stained again. (139)
There is a long bench affair running down the sides of the rear cabin, which is attached the wall, so I’ve made 20 sets of what looks like ‘duck boards’. These will be attached to a runner stuck on the wall. (139)
I then had a go at making the single benches. I fret sawed the side pieces and sanded them to be the same size and stuck them upright to the bench with blue-tack. I then laid out the match sticks across the sides and glued together. When dry, the edges were sanded smooth and my little people came out to try them for size. (141) (142) (143). Only 10 more to make!!
While in matchstick mode, I thought I would fit some to the curved seat in front of the first cabin. Unfortunately, these curve all around so it was very tricky to bend them. I have gone for the wood slats to stick outwards in a semi circle and am waiting for it to dry before seeing how it looks. At the moment it looks like a sun dial, so I don’t know if I’ll get away with it.
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Ken
my first attempt at a paddler was my model WAVERLEY which Walter Snowdon has now; and when I first built her she had independent paddle drives.
This was fine in flat calm conditions but our lake at Tynemouth is rarely calm for long and I found in a chop (ever so slight a one) that one paddle would be labouring in a water choked sponson, whilst the other wheel was spinning around with little propulsion.
So after that, having now built about 10 padle models, they are full shafts.
Some were joined with a sleeve in the middle, and some have had a paddle shaft which would go right thro' and in such a way that it can be drawn out from either side and thro' the spider wheel after its bearing was removed first. Sandy
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Hi Sandy & PD's
Thank you for making up my mind. I've decided on the sleeve in the middle as it's the only way to remove the wheels, independently. Would you have any close up pictures of the bracket to hold the feathering pivot, please. I'm particularly interested in how to secure the rail to hull. I don't want to rely on the paddle boxes taking the load.
Many thanks
ken
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Fitting out
The problem of the Paddle wheels has been solved. I am able to keep the shaft as one complete piece now. I realised the wheels were only 3mm larger than the boxes, so have cut the inside rim of the boxes back by this amount, and now the wheels slide on quite easily. The outside covers are unaffected by this and lay beautifully across.
I have rebuilt the wheels with brass blades, which are now a little larger than before. The nuts and 2mm bolts have been sanded flat, and secured with ‘loc tight’ (143)
I’ve finally got to look inside the hull. What a big space to work in. I’m leaving the deck fitting until last, so this time I can plan and place the working parts inside so that the will be easily accessible.
Wooden frames were constructed and cut to fit the curvature of the hull, and then epoxied into place overnight. The rudder and linkages were then secured and connected up using brass plates and screws. I have kept the arm and linkages short to cut out the wobbles and inaccuracies when steering her. (144) (145).
I then painted the assembly in Gold to keep the water out, and also make it easier to see when enclosed by the deck. This area will be accessible through the hatch cover above, should any further maintenance be required.
The main drive motor was then lined up, with the drive wheels placed temporarily in position. As there was no securing holes or screws on them, I had to drill out these wheels with a 2mm hole, which proved to be very hard steel, and consequently broke several drills and also wandered off line, which ruined one of the wheels. A new one was ordered and this held me up for a few days, but all is well. (146)
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Hi PD's....& yes Ken we can see in .jpg 146 what looks to be a model vehicle toothed belt drive differential housed in an ABS plastic case
These units usually feature a single row ball race on either side & an internal PEG drive through shaft pin for positive drive etc
The only offering would be another ball race in either side of the housing to offer support against the toothed belt tension
You may also need to consider a method of locking the shaft from atwart ships float & also the issue we discussed of water entry via the original kit paddle shaft bronze bushings
Looking forward to the next postings ............Derek
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It's getting very close for some on the water testing Ken.... Looking good!
Eddy
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Ken,
all my paddle blades are made in soft aluminium because if I hit anything, the aluminium gives before any of the wheel components gets damaged.
The worst thing on our lake for paddlers is lollipop sticks especially if one gets up inside the box as has happened in the past! Sandy
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Hi PD's,
The solid toothed wheels are commercial ones built of steel and so heavy that I had to drill holes sideways through them to get the weight down. The set of two wheels and one belt costs over £25, and I have two sets !!! (and one destroyed wheel in the bin). These came with 3mm holes and had to be drilled out to 6mm for the shaft of solid brass using several drills to graduate up to size. A hole was then drilled through them and the shaft to locate a sheer type of pin, in case of seizure from foreign objects.
The motor was screwed to the wooden block which had been epoxied to the the hull previously. The extra small wheel from the spare set was fitted in the drive belt line, on bearings and a tensioning device was devised.
The paddles were secured to the shafts and checked for free running and a variable voltage was applied to the motor.
My God, what a noise when the 50/1 ratio motor was started up. The whines and drumming sounds and vibrations were unbelievable.
I then had a rethink on the securing system and figured I need some rubber mounting blocks here. When held in the hand, the motor sound is just a quiet hum of gears, as they have been greased.
I mounted the motor on to solid rubber and found the noise was transmitted through the screws to the wooden block, so I looked for a way to isolate the screws from anything solid, but rubber on rubber was a bit wobbly for the forces involved. Time for another rethink.
Another day tomorrow .............
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Ken, remember that geared motors always sound aweful when running inside a hull on "dry land". Once on the water, it quietens things down considerably, but a geared motor will always be more noisy than a direct drive.
Sandy, I'd thought the aluminium floats were simply to save weight, I hadn't considered them as a "safety feature", but now you've mentioned it, it makes sense!
Eddy
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The motor has finally been mounted into a box of rubber. At the moment, I am using rubber bands to hold it in place, but hope to go for a type of rubber clip. The drive belt has been changed for a shorter one to eliminate the tension wheel system recently built, so this involved moving the motor nearer the shaft. I am leaving it pending at the moment as it’s taken a lot of my time and thoughts and I wanted to get on with another section. (148).
I have finished the new paddle blades and secured it all with Loc tight. (147) and the next project involved fitting the bearings for the feathering wheels. To this end I have fitted 5mm box brass strip across them and secured it to wooden blocks inside the cover. This will make removing the wheels a lot easier, should the need arise. (149)
The rear cabin was then covered in thin strips of mahogany, to simulate wood planking, and to make the window openings all parallel and inline. The roof was sanded down, as I didn’t like the finish. I then re stained with a lighter pine colour. It’s come out a little blotchy so further thoughts are need here. I may have to plank it with real wood strips if I’ve got the time.
I then moved on to the fun side of the build by fitting sliding doors to the rear cabin. Pictures (150) (151) shows them open and closed.
Picture 147 also shows my new stand for her. The mouse mat in the centre was purchased off Ebay and glued into position.
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Today was very productive. First we cut up some chair side pieces and filled them with matchsticks. (152) (153). When the glue dries, we will sand them smooth and finish off the edges.
The life saver raft seats were sprayed dark brown and ten holes were drilled around the side ready for the 200 life rings to be fitted. These rings were made of copper wire, all hand made to shape as per the pie in the box. (154) (155).
That was 11 hour’s which passed quite quick. Mind you, the sun came out for one of them, so I sat out in it, to get a tan !!! Might have tomorrow off, if this weather keeps up.
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A few boring repetitive jobs Ken, but the good bit comes when you start adding all those pieces to the model...... Then all the work pays off as the model starts to come to life! ;)
Regards
Eddy
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just a quick picture which may or may not be of interest, this is the area just behind the sliding doors showing the 'wood panelling' which is painted onto the metal (aluminium?). I certainly wouldn't be able to recreate it and would also use veneer instead!
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Hope, this picture is a real one and no model?
Andy
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no, that's the real one, I don't think I could build that much detail into a model!
just one thing, the 'life rings' around the seats (and I do hate to be critical) are actually loops of rope on the real thing....
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...this is how I attempted to recreate them on my boat (Menna/Alumchine - pictures I've found show only flat 'rafts' without the backrest) I used some elasticated cotton thread available from sewing suppliers (woolworths?) as it looked more like rope than anything else I had at the time, it is just pushed and glued into holes in the raft, I didn't try to drill vertically through a horizontal strip like on the waverley ones, my rafts are not even planked, I just drew lines with a ballpoint pen but I think it should look OK unless closely inspected!
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Thanks for the pictures of the seats, Mick. What super detail.
I plan to use white 'rope' between the eyelets, but looking at your picture they seem a little large in diameter. Also, I have used too dark a Brown for the colour, so it's off to the shop for a lighter version and do it all again.
I am not pleased with the cabin construction. I was compounding the errors by trying to improve on a bad design. To this end I have started building 'Both' new cabins from thinner plywood. I must say that it's coming out better than expected, and I'm all fired up with enthusiasm again. (156) (157) (158)
I spent 10 hours yesterday cutting all the square windows and doors out, and have stained the timber 'Before' gluing it together this time, and, although I say it myself, it's beginning to look the part, Yippee !!. I might even scribe the black lines around the doors, just like your picture. How far, is going too far?? Because of the scale, I have already reduced the number of planks on the seats. I don't want to get too bogged down with the tiny details, because I'm running out of sailing time.
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Hi Ken,
Not only a great improvement with the cabins, but it will also help to reduce weight, which can only be a good thing!
How many of us have built something, only to think of a better way of doing it after the event - And then say dammit, I'm not doing all that again!! Your to be congratulated for taking the time to get it right :bravo
Eddy
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Thanks, Eddy, I do feel better.
Yes, you know when something 'ain't right' and it does eat into you, so keep the comments coming, everyone. I want to make this one 'shine' :vacation
ken
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Today I sanded all the bench seats square and rounded off the edges. I've tried wood stain, but as you can see, the glue shows through. (160)
I'm not too concerned here as I shall be spraying them the same colour brown as the other seats, when I get some more paint.
The rest of the windows were cut out and now I've started gluing them to the roofs (decks). I do like a bit of pressure on the joints. (161)
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Davits Time
On with a bit of scratch building now as it’s time to make some Davits.
First of all I had to look up all my Waverley pictures to find some details. Out with the magnifying glass and make a few sketches.
I determined to follow the look as far as possible, so started cutting some plastic card.
The first job was to get the curve and thickness correct; the first one took about 3 hours before I came up with a suitable shape. It was then a case of marking and cutting out the other 8 side pieces to match. The sanding machine was too severe for this as it was melting the edges, so they all had to be hand shaped to match.
(162)
These were then sandwiched between a centre pieces to look like an RSJ girder, and glued down. (163). When dry, I made the support brackets for the hydraulic ramps and attached them as shown. (164) No, it will not be animated, as it's just for show.
I was quite pleased with the result and sat back with my cup of tea and realised there should be 2 more sets of these for my version of the boat. Ooh err!!, another 8 side pieces to cut and shape.
I then spent the rest of the day finding the matching pieces of plastic before making two more sets from scratch. Hey ho, it’s a lonely life out in the shed. This is as far I have reached before calling it a day. (165)
Tomorrow, I have to trim the edges a bit smarter and clean up the joints before painting them back white again.
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The davits look pretty damned good to me Ken....
Well done, as always...
Eddy
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Thanks, Eddy.
It seems a waste of time to undercoat them and then paint them white, but the dirty marks have to covered somehow. :whistle
ken
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Painting day
First we sprayed the Davits with 3 coats of red oxide undercoat. (169) and because it was a sunny warm day, this dried quite quickly, so we were able to apply the top coats of white. (170)
The chairs were sanded smooth and had their final coat of the lighter brown. (166)
The cabins have been glued together and clamped to allow setting overnight, as there is a curve in the walkways. (167)
We have found a suitable stairway, which was not wide enough, so two were cut and joined together. This has been sprayed to match and placed in position to get a perspective of how it will look. We shall need to cut the roof to allow it to fit nicely, so we don’t want any mistakes. (168)
Modification tried here ..... the pictures have disappeared ?
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Your putting the rest of us to shame with your work rate ken.....
Nevermind, once our family holiday and the Paddler Day is over, I have plans to get on with some modelling myself - Sadly I have to redecorate the kitchen before SWMBO will allow anything constructive to be done! :(
The new cabins and the staurcase look like a vast improvement - No offence intended!!
Eddy
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I knew the old ones were looking wrong, so no harm done. I welcome comments, as I'm a beginner to paddlers and wooden constructions.
I am at present waiting on the new deck planking and cannot paint the hull until the decks are secured because of the flush edge at the sides.
I need info on the top rear deck edges please. Does the planked floor go straight to the edge, or is there a ridge around, under the stanchions. ?
ken
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Dry Run fitting
As I was being overrun with semi constructed bits for her, I thought I would place them all in position to get an overview.
I tried a dry run of fitting some of the parts to the model to see what she looks like. I am now getting exited, as she is looking the ‘Biz’, as they say. (171 to 178)
Here are the pictures so far. I welcome any comments before they are secured later, as today is the day, for deck fixing down. I always regard this section as burning your bridges, as once it’s done you are committed to keyhole surgery for ever.
Before securing the deck, I have to run the wiring inside the roof for various sections, and also fix down the R/X and other controls so that they will be accessible through the deck holes.
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It still looks like the forward funnel is in the wrong position Ken.... Mick (mjt60a) pointed it out in an earlier post, maybe you missed it?
I've been looking for a photo showing the funnels and how (where, exactly) they attach to the bases (fiddleys?) but couldn't find the disc at the moment. However, here's a pic of my plans and as I suspected, the forward funnel sits at the front of its eliptical base and the aft one at the rear of its base (it says the plan is of the 1982 layout but I don't think this detail has ever changed)
**found one... the photo shows what I mean. not shown on the (my) plans are the hatches in the 'unused' part of the funnel bases
Regards
Eddy
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I need info on the top rear deck edges please. Does the planked floor go straight to the edge, or is there a ridge around, under the stanchions. ?
ken
The planks used to go up to the edge but were surrounded by a water channel which runs from about 18 inches from the back, in the stairway cutout, and all around the outside (no doubt with drain pipes at some locations) Have to admit I haven't really looked recently (and it's under some seats) so it could have a margin plank there now between the ends and the drainage channel...
anyhow, here's a picture if it's any help;
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...having said that, I just had a look at last years pictures and though I don't have one showing that area now, I did find one showing the rear adge of the bridge deck and it appears to have a margin plank and no drainage channel....
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Hi PD's.....Ken .......disregard the posting of ....wav_plan02.jpg....I think the draughtsman had TOO many :beer........................Derek
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Thank's for pointing out the funnels, Eddy. I was up early today and ripped off the forward funnel base with a hammer and chisel, before Church.
My goodness, that PVA is strong stuff. No damage done as it was sanded smooth again and re stuck and clamped in the correct way this time. The drawings shown by Mick are the same as mine and I cannot imagine how I missed a simple error like this.
Thank's, Mick, for the update on the deck edges. I like the system of a strip around the edge. It will set of the joins lovely. I did notice (with my critical Sunday eye !!) that the rear window was missing from the wheelhouse. It's all cut out now, so onwards ..............
added
I've just noticed the lifeboats have propellers. That should take a an inventive mind to make. ;)
ken
Missing Photo's from above posts added. I hope it's the correct ones.
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Coming on nicely Kenny !
Chris
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Thanks Chris,
Please call around any time you're free and have a closer look. I welcome advice, as it's coming along nicely at the moment and I don't want to spoil it for a 'haputh of tar'.
I am at present, working on the electric board by fitting the R/X, JJC sound board (reported to be the real Waverley engine), JJC smoke unit, and a two way switcher and 20amp speed controller from AcTion electronics. I'm wiring in an override switch to enable the lights, when on a display stand, to save the T/X being on.
If it all works, then I can finally seal the deck down and play with the 200 stanchions !! I've found the wire for the railings in the local florist shop.
Cheers
ken
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Hi Ken,
Yeh will do someday soon, perhaps one evening next week.
I am on the paddler on 12th September so let me know if you want any shots . . .
Cheers
Chris
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That's the Avon Gorge trip. I saw it but was going for the local trip from Newport on the 6th.
I rather fancy your trip instead, but it does involve driving to Penarth to catch her. Are you driving there?
regards
ken
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Hi Ken,
It involves a drive to Southampton! The Bal is doing the Avon trip, would strongly recommend a trip on her - she needs all the passengers she can get, not had a great season weather and fuel cost wise I understand.
Waverley just finishing off her Clyde Summer season and sailing South next week for a few weeks on the South Coast and then the Thames.
Cheers
Chris
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Ah !!. Thank's for the information. It's not the sailing, but the looking, i was more interested in.
I'm one of the unfortunates that get Sea sick very quick. We are having a late holiday at Poole later in September so I'll keep a weather eye out for her there, maybe.
ken
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Paint time
First, the lights have been wired in and glued tidy, up under the deck and tested (180)
It’s out with the paint cans this week. First coat was the lightest colour which is white. I applied several coats to cover the complete hull as I do like a smooth finish.
Then it was time for masking off to get the water line in place. I hate this job as the line always seems to in the wrong place and I do suffer from bleed through. This time I tried engineers electrical tape followed up by masking tape on top with newspaper to cover the rest. (181) the black was then applied to the lower section.
As you can see, the line does not appear to be straight, (182) (183), so it was re masked and done again. (184) I’ve placed some of the modules on the ship to get another perspective.
While the paint was drying, I got on with making the tarpaulin covered boxes which sit on the paddle boxes. (What ever do they keep under here eh?) (179).
This brings me to the holes I cut in the paddle box tops for the ladders. I notice that after I’d cut them, that they are only in the rear sections. These boxes will now have to cover the front holes and will cover my mistake lovely.
It’s then on to the electronic controls. I followed my usual pattern of placing them all together on a board to make lakeside repair easier by making the board slid out from under the first deck for access. (185)
The controls sited are as follows.
1. Motor speed controller
2. Two way electronic switcher for the lights and the sound/smoke generator
3. JJC smoke generator
4. JJC Waverley engine sound
5. 6 channel receiver from Futaba, sited farthest from spark creating modules
6. Fuse bank for all supplies.
7. Separate set of control switches fitted to stern to control the master on/off for easy lakeside use
8. Override switch to allow light to be used without the R/C being on
The painting is not yet finished, as there is a third colour of red to go below the black, so it’s off to the shop again. I am keeping a log of the costs, so far, but I fear to tell you how much we are up to.
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Far too damned tidy!!
When it comes to the internal stuff, it's generally shoehorned in without much thought on my models - Hey it's almost time to hit the water, why waste time with a tidy installation that will never be seen? Of course the new model duely arrives at the club, and the first thing the other members want to look at is the inside!!! :ranting :darn
Eddy
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Thank you, Eddy. I try to make it tidy, as I might have to fault find at the lake. ;)
I now need detailed pictures of the masts and arrangements of ropes and radar, etc. Anyone have some close ups please.?
ken
I have modified Waverley's build at this point to REPLACE THE PHOTOGRAPHS LOST in the following posts
There was no difficulty in replacing MY pictures, but those who submitted THEIR pictures and advice were copied for MY reference.
I have tried to show some of these missing pictures below.
They might not be in the right order , but they are still worth a viewing
:beer :clap :gathering
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I have some...
first three are the fore mast and second three are the 'mainmast', I hope they're some help :)
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Incidentally, the black part of the hull comes up to quite close below the windows...(much like the one in my signature picture)
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Masts again, got one showing the 'belaying pins' where the ropes are attached (there are 4 of them, the chap on the left is holding onto one) - notice also the lightning conductor and electrical conduits! This picture is of the area just above the one showing how the mast bolts to the deck...
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Hi PD's ....& as Ken quotes..........
"I try to make it tidy, as I might have to fault find at the lake"
any well thought & considered electronics or and internal build & constructed as such clearly minimises the need to ever have to consider fault finding :crash by the lake which gives you more time for a :coffee & enjoying others model vessels etc
Mind you ....over the years I am sure we have all seen model vessels that externally appeared :no1b ....until they exposed the internals :shoot but :shhh
..........Derek
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I have some...
first three are the fore mast and second three are the 'mainmast', I hope they're some help :)
Hi Mick
Super. Wow, thanks for the fast response, their great. I have printed them off and will try my best at following them.
ken
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Incidentally, the black part of the hull comes up to quite close below the windows...(much like the one in my signature picture)
I noticed something was wrong, this morning when I had a look. Also noticed the red under belly was damaged by the 'stand' where it was left all night. ::)
Today is going to be a more paint day, I guess.
You made me smile, Derek, love it :D
ken
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Trial fit of upper Deck Pieces
Today I started on the mast and fitted all the parts temporarily to get an overall picture (again). Didn’t get much work done as I was filming progress so far and didn’t want to remove it all yet.
I shall be smoothing down the paintwork and applying finishing touches, as I notice the painting is not as precise as I would have liked.
Here are some snaps of the attachments so far and when the portholes are fitted I can start securing down the deck. (186) (187) (188) (189)
I would appreciate your comments as to positions and fittings please.
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Looking really good but...I'm not too sure about just one thing....
The red area of the hull is to be underwater....the top of the red is the maximum water level when the ship is fully loaded....it looks like the paddles won't touch the water at the moment...
On this model (see attachment) I made the waterline (with a pencil, before painting) then fixed the height of the paddle shaft so that two 'floats' will be submerged fully - and more by luck than judgement, the inner rim would be just about at the waters surface.
You may have to re-paint the hull to raise the red part or, if that would bring the waterline too high, move the position of the paddle shaft down a bit :-\
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I agree with that. I thought it looked a lot of black. No worries, because I will be rubbing it down a bit and re painting anyway, as I want a better surface.
I can't move the paddle height again as the motor and drive system are all sorted. I think it's close enough for the waterline, but will be interested in seeing how many blades strike the water, when under way.
Thanks for the advice
ken
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mmmm PD's......Ken ...I know you asked for comments from early on in the build ...& these have been given..... :gathering in good faith....
From your latest snaps & comment from Mick mtj60a......I must agree that the paddle depth immersion appears to be out of scale or position.....
When the plans & the hull & the wheels are from the same supplier something appears not KOSHA......just stick with it :crash :hammer...& accept you may have to modify the paddle axis drive line height ......you will get it sorted..............
Oh BTW...have you completed a bath [test tank] flotation/stability test yet?...................Derek
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Just a thought Ken, have you compaired the size of the paddlewheels to the one's fitted on Waverley to see if they are the correct diameter for 1/48 scale. They could be a tad undersize?
Daryl
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Hi PD's
The paddle wheels were supplied by Waverley models as a kit and were built to a cost of £210.
There is not a great deal I can do about their diameter now as costs have exceeded £800 so far and she still doesn't have her deck fitted.
I have dropped the shaft as advised previously to what I now consider too far, so will not be dropping it any further. It may be the result of a deeper hull than the original ship. This was designed to increase stability and will not show up when she is afloat.
I give you the picture of her present position where it shows four blades free of the box. (190)
The real ship's paddle position is shown in (191) where you might observe the wheel does not protrude very deep from the box, and only shows three and a half blades clear of the edge.
I have just finished re sanding the whole paint job down again and now need another £15 worth of paint to respray it.
As to the float test, This is waiting for the portholes to be completed before I can immerse her in water, and I dare say, this will be the biggest test of my life. The previous float test (with hole blocking tape!) proved she rode a little high. (41)
Thank you all for your help, so far. Just working on the radar spinning around by itself at the moment, and that's a few unpredicted problems I can tell you !!
ken
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Hi Ken,
Your'e doing a grand job and this must be one of the most riviting build threads we have had on here for a long time, well done for keeping us informed of your'e progress.
Good luck with the tank test.
I don't think 4 paddles in view will present to much of a problem but I did notice that your set has 9 blades but Waverley has only 8 per wheel, ( see link below). That could explain why you have more blades on show than picture 191. Have you tried them to see how the feathering is?
http://www.psps.freeserve.co.uk/rebuild/000124/descr.htm
Have you tried Action, they do a very nice little radar roatation device.
http://www.action-electronics.co.uk/
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Hi PD's....& as Ken says .....
'to the float test, This is waiting for the portholes to be completed before I can immerse her in water, and I dare say, this will be the biggest test of my life'
Ken...we understand how frustrating these glitches can be.....[I have been building my PS Decoy since :ranting Y2000}.....so I would be inclined to postpone the hull sand & respray...& devote time to the completion of the portholes & a wet water dunking :beer...to confirm the latest flotation to wheel immersion
Remember the old trick.....but... :shhh...get the bathroom scales & gently force down on these on the hull to get the correct draft & record the EFFORT ...as shown in the scale dial...... :hehe.................Derek
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Hmm, I think looking at it, the diameter and position look to be about right (without seeing the actual model, that is...) I reckon raising the waterline should do it. The real ship does appear very low in the water, especially in some photos, and the portholes are near enough to the waterline that the swell behind the paddles covers over the few closest behind them...
The model is looking great by the way, I'm impressed with the lifeboat davits especially
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Hi PD's
Daryl. Thank you for the encouragement, I am enjoying myself and it looks like it shows. ;D The feathering action is the bees knees (as they say). The blades enter the water vertically and pull out vertically in a smooth way, so hopefully, should propel the old girl along smoothly. I spoke to AcTion Electronics about their radar motor and it's only £6.50, so I've ordered one, in case mine falls to bits.
Derek. Got your message to late, so destruction of the surface completed. :whistle I have previously done a float test and determined the weight to overcome buoyancy, (ie ... sinking !!) and the bathroom scales are at hand for your little test, which will done at first opportunity.
MJT, I should imagine the old girl had a fuller than full compliment of passengers in your picture. ;) Those portholes are not actually below the waterline, but close enough to give trouble. I shall ensure they are well sealed inside. Once it's built, it's too late then eh !! Glad you like the davits. I plan to separate them from their block and mount them to the deck. I still have to rig up the ropes for them and make little propellers.
on with the build story ...............
Modifications started.
Today I completed the rub down and smoothed the surface. (192) (193)
It was then off to Halfords again, for some more tins of paint. We now have a new stock of Red, Black, & White. The Sun then came out for the first time in a week, so it was out in garden and start the spray process. It’s looking better already and I’m quite pleased. Pictures to follow.
While the paint was drying I tarted up the deck fittings (194) and got on with inventing the radar drive system.
To this end, I have purchased a rotating party light from the ‘Pound store’ and torn it apart for the gear mechanism. (195)
This little device has a 3 volt motor and a few gears and rotates at a very realistic speed for a radome. I have glued in some blocks to support it under the cabin roof and left then drying for the night. We’ll try it out in the morning.
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Radar construction
Today I fitted the motor unit inside the top cabin and ran a shaft up through to the roof.
I have built a voltage reduction circuit and can feed just over 3 volts to it, which speeds it up a bit. (I like to keep the boat's power supply at 12 volts). Mind you, the motor is an unknown quality, so it might burn out. I've got two more for a pound each, so it's worth the gamble. ;) It took 4.5 volts OK, but I reduced it for safety. 8)
I've severely cut back the excess plastic and acquired a smaller footprint, now I need detailed drawings of the dome itself. .... as I only have a bit of sticky tape to show it rotating. 8) ... anybody ??
Here are some pictures of the installation. (196) (197)
Then it was back to the paint job in hand. Further coats were added and now it only needs the final Black band in the centre section. Should be a riot when it comes to masking off both Top & Bottom lines. (198)
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Good thread, especially of interest to me as i slowly put my model of the Waverly together.
great inspiration. keep it coming
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Thank you Talisman. I like you pictures. Well done, as I know how difficult this model is.
Hull Paint finished
Yippee!! Weve got there in the end. The tape came off and didnt pull any paint, and its come out with the best finish I could have wished for. Im really pleased with surface now. Perhaps I can get on with those portholes at last.
Here are the latest pictures, which includes my Radar unit, which works a treat. (199) (200) (201)
Ive taken movies to add to the You-Tube film that Im making, but havent posted these yet.
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OK PD's.....I think it is great as a 58YO......... :whistle & :hehe when I read ..... "Yippee!! We’ve got there in the end" ........from a 66YO member......"onya" Ken......... :beer.................Derek
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Looking good Ken
Two jobs i hate windows and seats so i have come up with alternative ways
Seats cut cnc
Windows moulded in clear resin
a couple of pics
Look forward to seeing the youtube film :)
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Nice job, Talisman. Production line eh!!
Windows time
Today I fitted the portholes around the sides of the ship. (202) (203).The insides were glazed to the hull for water integrity, even though the portholes had their own glass, these were done as well. I used strips of clear plastic in sheet form and to completely seal the edges, I shall epoxy around the edge when that lot is dry.
I then settled down with a cup of tea and the radio and fitted all the lifelines to the bench seats. A long job and slightly boring, but the effect seems worth it. (204) I shall be tiding up the edges when this glue is dry, also
I then set about glazing the cabins. These were fitted out with square windows along the sides, and frames are being fitted around the front curves. I shall now be picking superglue from my fingers all night!! (205)
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Looking really good Ken - The pain with Waverley, all those damned windows!! ;)
I hope you realise you only have three working days left before Paddler Day :hehe
Regards
Eddy
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I'm going as fast as I can, chief.
Seriously though, I am unable to come to the big show, and will have to bow out. Please accept my apologies. I really would have liked to come up, but my hospital appointment has been shifted forward due to a cancellation. Being retired does have it's advantages but unfortunately, you need the body to keep up with it. :whistle
ken
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excuses excuses Ken! :nahnah
Seriously, I know you cannot make it, so I was only winding you up...... Nevermind, there's always the 2009 Paddler Day :yeahbaby
Eddy
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I'll be with all in spirit.
Please post loads of pictures. :gathering
ken
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Today I thought I would make dome Air vents. First I cut blocks of wood for the tops and fitted them with some dowel rod. (206) When the glue dried, I turned the square pieces to a round shape, on a sanding belt and finished off with a file and sandpaper. I then drilled out the top holes to act as recesses. (207) and the 6 were then sprayed with primer and left overnight.
Having nothing better to make or do, I decided to commit and start gluing the seats to the cabin roof. I also cut the Davits from their frames and glued these to the roofs as well. (208) (209)
Going by your pictures, I have made the inserts for the funnels and sprayed them black. These are different for each funnel, so were glued in their correct positions. The picture was black on black and didn’t show this feature very well, so I have altered the contrast to make it show up better. (210)
A loudspeaker has been fitted to the underside of the front funnel for my sound machine, and a suitable baffle box was fitted to the back of it, to project the sound upwards through the funnel.
I notice that the Perspex fitted inside to the fibreglass hull was starting to come adrift. I shall be applying P38 filler around the edges to seal it back in. Gotta keep the water out somehow !!
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The primer is now dry on the air vents (211) so they were sprayed a bronze colour and put aside to dry.
We decided to commit ourselves and finally glued down the deck (212) with epoxy resin. The gaps were filled later in the evening with P38.
Today was spent cutting the deck planking boards and fitting them to the boat. This took a lot of time and a lot of off cuts resulted!! All funny shapes left over, full of curves and angle cuts. (213).The finished result has transformed her and another mini movie was made. I forgot to take a few 'still' photos, so'll add them tomorrow.
We then decided to complete the upper cabin lighting systems and here is a start. (214)
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The deck planking came out well, so it was decided to proceed with fitting the extras on top. (215) (216)
First we glued the inflatable seating all around the place, as per photos in our collection. Next to be fitted were the air vents and anchor winch.
The platforms above the paddle boxes were then lined up and support rods were cut and partially glued to them. They will be lined up and cut to height as the next job.
A new rear hatch cover was then made to replace the old one, which was a bit high and also dark in colour. (217) a clip arrangement was made to locate and hold the piece in place. Although not quite waterproof, its not really intended for the high seas. We have yet to populate it with the spare steering mechanism and pipes and boxes.
Further movie clips were taken, plus a few stills.
As we are leaving the build for then next two weeks or so, it was decided to place all the bits on the boat to encourage us to finish her off, on our return. (218) :sunglasses
I'll shall have my laptop with me, so if you want a chat, I'll be here.
ken
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It really is coming together nicely now Ken - It look slike you have most of it done now apart from all the rails and the lifeboats.
Your not off on yet another holiday are you?
Regards
Eddy
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I knew there was something missing. I've been putting off fitting those rails and can leave it no longer. 8)
Yes, Eddy, her indoors wants to get away again. I told her I was busy, but she wouldn't have it, so it's off to the coast for two weeks.
I suppose it will give the glue on my fingers time to wear off. It will be nice to turn the pages of a newspaper again. What with bleeding fingers and loosing my grip on smooth objects, I should have time to recover. :vacation
ken
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I'm back. :whistle
Loads of bits'n'bobs that have to be fitted, so it's down to the nitty gritty of stanchions and railings next. (might be quiet for a bit longer)
ken
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Welcome back Ken, hope the holiday went well.....
Okay, pleasantries over - GET ON WITH THE BUILD! :nahnah
Regards
Eddy
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Cheers, Eddy.
We came back early as I was suffering withdrawal symptoms. So much to do at home ;)
I've found some suitable boats in the RNLI shop (It was a pleasure to support them.) that I just had to buy. They have model lifeboats that seem the size of 1/48 scale, so I'll photo it on board the "W" and compare. It only costs £3.99, fully complete, and to think I took two days to make four.
The 'Airfix' model "Severn lifeboat" (scale 1/78) will be in the production line for later in the new year. ;D
ken
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Will call by soon Ken . . .
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I'm here :coffee
Slight pause in production whilst I repair some more piano keyboards. This will help the finances, seeing as my shares have nosedived !!
ken
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Back from the holidays and straight into the workshop. I've been working on the little detailed parts, so have not had anything to show lately.
I have repainted the cabins to a darker brown of my own mixture. This came out rather well, as it tended to cover the small imperfections that were beginning to creep in to the build.
I have re sprayed the lifeboats (again) as, during my break, the wood stain was leeching through the previous white coat and looking awful. Tip of the day don't paint on top of wood stain.
I have completed the moving radar unit. This was done with a miniature servo with the insides cut out. The reduction gearing was connected up and it rotated a bit fast, so I made a 2.8 volt speed control to slow it down to the correct speed. This saves adding silly little batteries, and can be run directly off the main 12 volt system.
All the air vents were painted brown and attached to the decking, and I even painted the inside edge red for effect.
The life rafts were sprayed and will be fitted later. I'm now working in the sliding doors as there are six of these to be glazed and fitted with tiny handles.
I have the latest pictures below, (219 to 225), along with a Youtube Video of her sitting on our dustbin in the garden. This shows the latest stage of the build and promises completion by Christmas.
http://ca.youtube.com/watch?v=Ly6FOqISXtU
Onwards and upwards
ken
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All coming together nicely Ken - But can I just make one slightly negative comment..... Deck planks are normally 10'-20' in length, I don't think there were too many 240' trees around when Waverley was built! :hehe
Sorry, but it's one of my pet hates seeing a model with huge long planks....
I know you'll take that in the spirit it's intended as you always do ;)
Regards
Eddy
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Hi Eddy. You made I smile ;D ;D ;D
Excellent point. The decking has not yet been varnished, so now is an ideal time to sub divide the planking with pen marks. Mind you, Lord Nelson had his choice of forests, he might have found some big trees. :hehe
One quick question. I shall try her in the water soon, so I've arranged the batteries as 3 of, 12 volt, 7 amp/hour, and laid them out into containers (restrainers in the event of collision?).
Am I correct in assuming the boat will balance at exactly the centre point of the paddle wheels? I placed her on a tube at this point and re arranged the batteries so that she balanced evenly. One of the batteries is on a sliding rack, which can be finely balanced if needed.
Today I shall be fitting the sliding doors. Gotta make her like the real one with doors to slide forehead in the event of a sudden stop. I seem to have accident prevention on my mind. Probably due to the costs involved so far!!
ken
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Hi Ken, good to see the show on the road again :)
Incase you hadn't thought of it allready, i use a gangway with a lead base on the deck wich can be moved around for fine trimming the boat.
For collisons i build a brass or steel stem into the hul which usually prevents most damage on the bow and does tend to keep other boats out of the way or if hit they only tend to make the mistake once :)
For batteries i use velcro so that the batteries can be easily adjusted and there is a bit of give to allow for sudden stops without upsetting the fore and aft trim.
Probably nothing new to most but may help others :)
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I like the idea of a gangway with a lead base for fine tuning - Something I hadn't thought of, but will be adding to my Marchioness of Lorne now you've brought it up Talisman.
Thanks
Eddy
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Good idea.
Tell me, is there only one gangway? I notice they rest it on the walkway when at sea. I don't suppose there is one each side. We don't want her listing with all that lead. :whistle
ken
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I think there's three gangways, one on each side, on the landing platforms and one on the deck in a convenient position for the next 'port-of-call'
(two of them can be seen in this photo...)
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...and here we see the 'on deck' one tied against the railing when under way...
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One of the gangways is wider than the others to allow pushchairs and wheelchairs access. Also they are a pig to manhandle, quite a few crewmen have had trapped hands and bad lacerations, Purser Jim almost lost a finger a couple of years ago and I got a stomach hernia handling identical gangways on the Balmoral. (I have a 4 inch scar on my belly button to prove it!). Its a mans life on todays preaserved ships!. Regards, Walter.
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Thank you everyone.
That's details I didn't know about. We shall start construction after the dreaded STANCHIONS are fitted. 200 by my last count.
Today I went out and purchased an extra length of 21.5 mm tubing for the MMB smoke generator. I plan to have both funnels belching the stuff on proportional control in time with the sound generator.
I'm really getting exited about her now. It all seems well worth the effort.
:beer
Missing Gangplank photo added
ken
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Today I assembled the MMB smoke machine to some additional piping and fired her up. (226)
I then placed on the funnels to see what the effect might be. (227)
The whole assembly was then fitted into the boat and another piece of the movie was made. (228)
The life raft assemblies were then attached to the deck, along with the green covered boxes. (I still don't know what's in them ?) (229)
I've noticed the exit doors on the waterline by the paddles were not painted on the lower section to match the hull black, so this was put right. I've also removed the lifebelts as this didn't look right.
There is now no excuse for not starting the stanchions, so here we go.
But first we shall attempt the gangways. 8)
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Hi
Its all lookign pretty exciting, looking forward to seeing afloat fotos come online!
As for the green boxes you ask after on the forward ends of the sponsons, I believe the larger irregular shaped ones contain life jackets and the smaller ones astern of them the shutters that slide over the maindeck windows in inclement weather.
I will check this out when Im home, but my memory tells me thats whats in there!
Keep up the good work! Andy :-)
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Hi PD's....& have I just woken from the fog? :shoot .......:sorry if I have this wrong Tug Kenny.....but was one funnel on Wayerley not a dummy water tank...& hence no smoke.......or am I having senior moments like some others ? :whistle....Derek
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Hi,
smoke should be dirty black, I think? I also thought about this, because my Model of the PS DIESSEN has no smoke because of its gas firing. But I could fit a little cup with smoke oil into the hot funnel, then it would work, I think. But this oily fog could rest on the model, so I did not use this thought. PS Diessen has its exhaust in the hull as original right in front of the paddle wheel, there all oils will be mixed very good into the water and not come to the superstructure.
;-)
Andreas
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See - http://www.flickr.com/photos/time_grabber/546974080/
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I believe waverley did in fact use both funnels when first built, the boilers were fitted with the 'furnaces' at opposite ends so the smoke from them used one funnel each. When the boilers were replaced, the new ones were fitted so the smoke from both went into a kind of upside down Y-shape duct and into the front funnel only. I don't know offhand when this was but since this model has four lifeboats.... could it be from that time?
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Good idea.
Tell me, is there only one gangway? I notice they rest it on the walkway when at sea. I don't suppose there is one each side. We don't want her listing with all that lead. :whistle
ken
Depending on state of tide or pier being used, would depend on where the gangway was / is deployed.
Worth checking a few photos out Ken as depending on the level of detail you want it makes a difference to your stantions as there were/ are gates to allow the gangways to be deployed.
How you doing your stanchions ? I can recomend james lane just ordered 400+ from him - a bit expensive but give a nice finnish to the boat - I would also recomend superglue rather than solder much easier / faster (imo)
Also i would recomend Quay Craft lifeboats again not the cheapest but nice boats.
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I believe waverley did in fact use both funnels when first built, the boilers were fitted with the 'furnaces' at opposite ends so the smoke from them used one funnel each. When the boilers were replaced, the new ones were fitted so the smoke from both went into a kind of upside down Y-shape duct and into the front funnel only. I don't know offhand when this was but since this model has four lifeboats.... could it be from that time?
This is the version that I'm aiming for. I knew the 'two' versus 'one' smoke outlet would start some inquiries. ;) Mine is the version that left the shipyard.
The forward funnel has large holes for the majority of the smoke, whilst the rear funnel has two small holes for subsidiary smoke and hence a smaller amount trickles out. I could cap it off but the extra smoke then coming out of the front funnel makes her look like a steam train. :D
I shall go along with finite detail on these gangways, Talisman, as it should add something to the deck area. Those dreaded stanchions are being left to the end because of these extra fittings going in. Already it has paid off because I can now see where there will be gaps around the life canisters and lifeboats..
My other though is on the Sponsons. I figure there must be a gate type of arrangement on the outside edge to allow the gangways to extend to the dock. Was this hinged and swung inwards, perhaps?
I was working on the lifeboat rigging around the side, today. I fancy using either a white or a red rope around the sides, in loops. I'll try both and see which looks the best. Unfortunately, I will not be fitting propellers, as these are too small to appreciate. ::) and where do you stop.
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Regarding the sponson rails. the upper wooden rail is hinged left and right and both fold back along the line of the fixed wooden rails. the two gates open inwards on hinges from the central staunchion to which they are pinned. the staunchion is removable (hole in deck edge) and can be lifted out when two gangways are in use. Hope this makes sense! the wooden rail has brass castings on both ends, one is the hinge, the point where they both meet is a tennon joint so they lock together. Regards, walter.
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Luvly details.
I appreciate that, Walter. Thank you, it will be done.
ken
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Indeed, white smoke! What had they for firing the boilers? qhite coal?
Andreas
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these are the gates on the port side, behind the landing platform. the 'hinged' ends are where there are an extra supporting rod at an angle from below the rail capping to the deck...
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...incidentally, looks like I was wrong about having three gangways, this was taken on the same cruise as the previous picture and we see the wider gangway between the inner and outer railings, this is in addition to the one on the deck and one on each landing platform - so there's at least four and maybe five - this may not have been the case in the period in which your model is set though!
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3 is normal for the paddler I think . .
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Indeed, white smoke! What had they for firing the boilers? White coal?
Andreas
I'd rather not have dirty Smoke go all over the model, so I went for a Steam generator, which is nice fluffy white stuff. ;)
ken
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Hi, it's difficult to say
- this may not have been the case in the period in which your model is set though!
I wondered that myself as we have four life boats and life rafts did she ever have all at the same time? I know there was a time when she had 3 lifeboats and liferafts. During that period i dont think she had the two gold stripes down the hull.
Also, just to confuse matters more, depending on what period she is modeled on she may also have had boards to allow cars to board.
Devils in the detail ..........
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...incidentally, looks like I was wrong about having three gangways, this was taken on the same cruise as the previous picture and we see the wider gangway between the inner and outer railings, this is in addition to the one on the deck and one on each landing platform - so there's at least four and maybe five - this may not have been the case in the period in which your model is set though!
Thanks MJt. They are great. I've started on the construction but realised I had two sides which were unsupported and not very mechanically secure, mmmmph!! I shall redesign it again in something a bit sturdier. Also, I was going for a stepped walkway, rather than your correction of a flat one with slats on it, so that will be incorporated as well. Thanks for that.
ken
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Hi, it's difficult to say - this may not have been the case in the period in which your model is set though!
I wondered that myself as we have four life boats and life rafts did she ever have all at the same time? I know there was a time when she had 3 lifeboats and liferafts. During that period i dont think she had the two gold stripes down the hull.
Also, just to confuse matters more, depending on what period she is modeled on she may also have had boards to allow cars to board.
Devils in the detail ..........
Great problems to be sorted. If I make all these extras, I can always remove them for competitions and judging. (I should get that far eh !!). I thought of 'bending the details' to go for a look that will appeal to visitors at the lake, rather the judging panel. To this end, I have some surplus lifebelts which have been attached to the upper cabin walls, and look the part. I'm surprised the builders never thought of this. ;)
I'm just wondering about what make of TV to put in the lounge. After all, it's supposed to be around 1975. :whistle
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[/quote]
I'm just wondering about what make of TV to put in the lounge. After all, it's supposed to be around 1975. :whistle
[/quote]
Oh dear Ken,
1974 Cal Mac funnels, 4 lifeboats no liferafts, and white superstructure
1975 - LNER funnels, also, and this is the bit that your not going to like, superstructure white
:(
from memory and could be wrong she stayed the same till the 90's
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When i was young my Dad's model boat club put on a show in the Waverly. They sailed up to Tighnabruich and sailed the model boats next to the pier. Perhaps you could have a model boat show in the lounge ;D
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Oh dear Ken,
1974 Cal Mac funnels, 4 lifeboats no liferafts, and white superstructure
1975 - LNER funnels, also, and this is the bit that your not going to like, superstructure white
:(
from memory and could be wrong she stayed the same till the 90's
Amazing detail ........... That makes mine at December 31st 1974, when they'd had too much to drink and didn't know what to change next. :beer
I'll see if I've got any white paint left. ;)
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Lifeboats
I have gone with grey rope in the end, as other colours look a bit garish. (232) I have glued the rope in place and it has, unfortunately, damaged some of the paintwork. I then had to repair this and its come out reasonably well.
I then got on with making three gangways. I have used plastic tubes and angles and fitted tiny stepping bars made from matchsticks. Two are 17mm wide and one is wider, for wheelchairs. I had thought about making a wheelchair but decided that life was too short. (230) (231)
I don't know yet whether to paint this structure or leave it 'as is' because it doesn't look too bad in white.
Had half a day today as it was getting quite cold out in the shed. :coffee
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I have here a booklet purchased on board, titled 'Waverley - the story of the worlds last sea going paddle steamer' it says on page 8...
"Waverley was allowed only one season to sail in the attractive LNER colours. Her hull and paddle boxes were black while the former carried two gold lines immediately beneath the cream topsides. The deck shelters were grained brown. Above towered red funnels with black tops and white bands". At the end of 1947" etc.
...so the superstructure was originally 'woodgrained' but for only one year...until now, that is :)
I myself tend not to worry too much about accuracy, so long as it looks good on first impression. My models always have one or two compromises (if not actual errors!) but I only change them if they bother me
The model of Albion/Glen Rosa in Model Boats had a few (mentioned in the article) and I didn't notice until they were pointed out by the author.
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Thank you for the information. Excellent news. I shall keep the cabins 'wood grained' and the funnels to the 'LNER' spec
I like the Gold lines idea. I shall try and use this if I can find the marking tape.
ken
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Thank you for the information. Excellent news. I shall keep the cabins 'wood grained' and the funnels to the 'LNER' spec
I like the Gold lines idea. I shall try and use this if I can find the marking tape.
ken
Hi a quick trawl on ebay and you should be able to get your hands on (if you excuse the pun ) nail tape ( used to decorate ladies nails ) it comes in approx 1mm width and is a better effect and cheaper than trim line.
It's self adhesive but i put a coat of nail varnish over the top wich helps protect and stick.
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"Waverley was allowed only one season to sail in the attractive LNER colours. Her hull and paddle boxes were black while the former carried two gold lines immediately beneath the cream topsides. The deck shelters were grained brown. Above towered red funnels with black tops and white bands". At the end of 1947" etc.
...so the superstructure was originally 'woodgrained' but for only one year...until now, that is :)
But, theres allways a but :) if you go for 1947 then you need to loose the liferafts and radar if it's to be true to life. If you go for present day you get to keep the radar but loose the lifeboats.
If it was easy everybody would be build boats from scratch ..... :)
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All these details on top off a hull thats not true to life is the reason my build is taking so long im scunnered with it :)
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Gold lines are out then. Back to white.
ken
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Hammer and Chisel Time
I have finally been talked into removing the two rear lifeboats. (Don't know what the passengers are going to say!!) :gathering
They were removed but damaged the decking wood. (233) The replacement life raft canisters were placed on to see the line up and fitting required. (234) (235)
I have fitted the davits to a new base piece of decking and slotted plastic will be fitted to allow them to be slid in exchange for the canisters, when the mood takes me at shows.
That way I can show a comparison between the years on the 'old girl'.
Now I can follow, exactly, the pictures I have of her, as she is at the moment. :whistle
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Must have been a lot of workmen to need the gangway and the stairs :)
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There is a good pic on the inside cover of ships monthly worth a look.
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Must have been a lot of workmen to need the gangway and the stairs :)
They couldn't use the stairs because there was no hand rail. Elf'n Safety don't you know.
I've put the gangway up because I'm proud of it. All it needs now is some webbing on the sides.
ken
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....All it needs now is some webbing on the sides....
maybe a cheap fishing net (the type you get at souvenir shops on the sea front) of a suitable colour could be used...
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Excellent suggestion. I have a stock of collected nets from the beach.
ken
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We are now on to the upper boat deck supports. 32 pieces of 5mm dowel have been cut and painted and are now ready for fitting. (237)
Holes have been drilled into the deck, (4.8mm) and the dowels hammered into place, so that the cabin roof just rests on the top of the pillars. (238)
This was also done for the front cabin and the whole lot were levelled off, so that the cabins rested flat on the deck supports. The cabins can be removed for maintenance, leaving the supports quite firmly upright in the deck. (239) (240)
The Front mast was glued into place with a securing block underneath and inclined to the correct angle. The rear mast was also fitted to the cabin roof with its block secured underneath.
The gangways have been painted a light grey with the duck boards painted brown. I have some fishing net in mind for the sides, when it's all dry,
I then set about making the mast bands from copper strip and drilling out the tiny holes for the mast support wires.
The deck edging was repainted white, to cover the scratches and dings from the build, and now I have no excuse for not fitting the stanchions.
As an after thought, I have been marking the planking with a pen to simulate the joins.
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Stanchions & Railings
We finally reach the fitting of the stanchions. I was dreading this moment as they are quite tiny affairs. The stanchions are the three-hole type with a handrail to be fitted at the top.
I drilled out their positions with a 0.7mm drill, all along the deck by following a jig, to ensure every one was the same distance apart. Two drill later!! I had completed the task.
The stanchions were then fitted in the holes and super-glued overnight. Today I threaded the fine wire through all the holes and have left it like that whilst my eyes recover. (241) (243)
You will notice that the wire is covered in a green finish, so this will mean I have to paint them white, when finished. This is not my favourite job, as mistakes can happen and spoilt the overall effect. I shall do my best with masking and hope it doesn’t drip too much.
While I was looking at her during one of my many tea breaks, I realised the upright pillars to the upper decks were too thick, at 5mm. These were then cut off at deck level and 3mm holes drilled into the bases. New pillars were then inserted in their place and cut level at the tops to accommodate the floors of the upper decks. (232)
During the intricate messing about, I managed to snap the main mast and damage the wiring the mast light, so it was back to the wood shop to make another. This was turned and sanded to a taper and a groove was cut into the shaft for the wires. A new LED was wired into the top and wires run to the base. The mast was painted and left to dry overnight. This was refitted to the deck and actually looks better than the old one ?
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The thinner deck supports are a great improvement Ken, and well worth the effort. All those rails are a pain on most models, but on something as well known as the Waverley, they just have to be done right!
Well done yet again, the end is in sight :)
Eddy
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Looks like it's all coming together nicely, the railings look an absolute nightmare to fit (this is one area where I tend to make a compromise - ie. mine are much thicker than should be for strength)
The best thing to use for masts in my opinion, is fishing rod. I found a discarded one at work and then bought a 'beginners' one for about £5 just to get the end 18 inches or so, it's the only thing I've found that's thin enough to look right yet will bend a frightening amount before it breaks - certainly enough to withstand accidents that can happen when handling a model - and can also have grooves cut into it for wiring (though having seen the lines of electrical trunking that go up waverleys masts to the lights and speakers, and the lightning conductor, I now just superglue the wires onto the surface, it still looks OK)
*edit: oops, wrong picture!
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Thank you for your kind comments. Yes, the railing wire is thin (but quite workable). I'd had enough by the time I got them all in location. Those holes were getting smaller. ;)
Tomorrow it's out with the pliers to straighten the kinks !! Then glue them all in place.
The extra life raft canisters arrived today and have been joined to the racks for addition to the rear upper deck.
Just a quick question ...... "How do you support the lifeboats"? I have rigged up wire to the blocks, and put hooks in the boats, but don't know whether to glue the boats to the davits, or leave them swinging.
ken
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Glue the lifeboats in place Ken, they don't swing about on the real vessel, so they shouldn't on your model either...
Regards
Eddy
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Thank you for that, Eddy. I'll do that as the next job. :great (another job struck off the list)
ken
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I finally glued all the stanchions and wire together today. The job took over 5 hours with me on my knees, eye level with the bench and pliers and magnifying glass in hand.
It's time now to think about the railing on the top. I shall fit a wooden one until I get to the stern curve, where I shall probably substitute plastic.
The rear 'fender' has been fitted from a solid piece of rubber with a flat cut along its edge and secured with contact adhesive. (244) (245)
The rear life raft canisters were then fitted to the upper cabin roof and some 'little people' scattered around for effect. (246)
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I have been busy tidying up deck area today. The lifeboats have been strung to the davits and a few extra little parts added. The electronics was set up and the lights plugged in. 32 at the last count. Even the two spotlights on the bridge deck shone away backwards at the lifeboats. Just the railings to go, when I cut the wood.
I took her out to the sunshine for filming, so here is the latest position. (247) (248) (249)
I'm taking the day off tomorrow as I'm away to the boat fair at Warwick. Goodness knows what will take my fancy next.
Sunday, she hits the water. I have the batteries on board and it all checks out on the bench. What can possible go wrong!!
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Really looking the part now Ken - Not far to go! :)
I'm away down to Warwick myself this weekend, and I have a "list" of stuff as long as my arm to get for various projects!
The weather forecast isn't good for the weekend, so make sure you find a sheltered spot for testing until you see how stable she is! I'm really looking forward to hearing how the on the water testing goes - Hopefully it will make all the work seem worthwhile!!
Regards
Eddy
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Thanks, Eddy. I shall be on the lookout for strips of white lining tape. 8)
Looking forward to meeting you in person. Seems we are all meeting at Steamboat Phil's Stand at 12 o'clock. I shall be the one with traces of Paint and superglue all over me.
Seriously though, I'd better wear a name tag label. :D
See you there and any other members who want to come along. I've been three years running and always find something I didn't know I wanted. (last year was a thousand pound fishing trawler !!)
ken
reference ....
http://www.warwickshireexhibitioncentre.co.uk/
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Starting to look good Kenny, will I have opposition at Darlington paddle day next year!
Attached may be of interest to you
Sandy
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Thank you, Sandy. Wow, that is impressive. It gives me to much too much to aim for. That is truly a great build. Smashing ......
Eddy, I seem to have missed you in the crowds at the Warwick show. I was quite disappointed and really looking forward to meeting you. I asked around but no luck.
I managed to get the timber for the capping around my stanchions, so the day was not wasted. No white tape for the hull though, so I will have to look further afield. I did get a rear flagpole of the right scale, so I shall be changing mine as it looks a bit thick in diameter for the scale.
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Sorry we didn't get to meet Ken - Unfortunately I had no idea who the heck "steamboat phil" is, and it was too late to send you a message asking for clarification, as I didn't see your post until saturday morning at about 5am :(
Nevermind, I'm sure we'll meet up at one of the shows next year with a bit of luck! Maybe even at our 2009 Paddler Day with your Waverley?
Regards
Eddy
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Hi PD's....& Ken says......Thank you, Sandy. Wow, that is impressive..... :kewlpics ...but is it a model or the real vessel ??????? :shoot....Derek
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It's the real thing ;D
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No white tape for the hull though, so I will have to look further afield.
Ken, I'm pretty sure SHG had some tape on their stand, although it was pretty difficult to get near yesterday. If you need to order from the internet I think George Turner stocks it, or you should be able to get some from your local Halfords or car accessory shop.
Barrie
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Hi PD's....& Ken says......Thank you, Sandy. Wow, that is impressive..... :kewlpics ...but is it a model or the real vessel ??????? :shoot....Derek
Hi Derek
Well it was 11 o'clock at night after a long days driving and chatting at fairs. :coffee
I thought it was an impressive picture anyway, in it's own right. 8) ken
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Sorry we didn't get to meet Ken - Unfortunately I had no idea who the heck "steamboat phil" is, and it was too late to send you a message asking for clarification, as I didn't see your post until saturday morning at about 5am :(
Nevermind, I'm sure we'll meet up at one of the shows next year with a bit of luck! Maybe even at our 2009 Paddler Day with your Waverley?
Regards
Eddy
My fault, Eddy. I expect you had a bit of searching around. Sorry about that. Hope you had a great time and didn't spend to much. I kept expenses down as half the stuff I needed was sold out.
@Barrie. There were several sellers of this tape, but all the white reels were gone by the time I get there. Not to worry as I can get some from Westbourne models.
ken
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Launch Day
Weather forecast: Windy from the North West, Rain squalls, blustery, and, Oh! Did I mention Rain?
I went to my Boat club's lake today and met a few hardy souls with their models. After sheltering under a tree and with members drifting away, I thought it was time for the Waverley's float test.
Well I'm pleased to report that she floats evenly and did look the part out on the water. The engine was started and off we went. The rain eased as if in appreciation of my plight and I was able to take some snap shots of her underway. I have also recorded some Movie clips for my build film, which is coming out by Christmas. The rear cover was then spotted on the bank, so worrying about water ingress to the boat, she was brought in. I wish I had varnished the decks as they were quite damp. The lifeboats were swimming in the stuff
As far as sailing goes, I noted that she was quite stable but manoeuvring was sluggish. The acceleration is also slow and gentle control of the paddle speed is vital as full speed tended to send water all over the place.
All in all, it was a graceful way of boating and I really enjoyed it. All that remains to do is the capping rails and the rigging and she can go on the shelf ready for next years sailing regattas.
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Great news Ken - I'm really pleased the on the water tests were succesful!
Now all you need is a nice calm day, and then you can fully appreciate just how relaxing it is to sail a paddler! :)
Regards
Eddy
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Cheers, Eddy ....... This is the life eh !!!
:vacation
145 days of work behind me now.
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Hi Ken,
congratulations to you and your Waverley, what a nice model, i keep the fingers crossed you will have soon better weather for a propper "Maiden Voyage*
Regards Hans
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Thank you Hans. Yes, I enjoyed the first launch. It makes it all worth while.
I shall waterproof the deck and then not worry too much next time. ;D
all the best
ken
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Looking really great!
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Very fast built! I take some years for a model, but I am always busy in my profession, too, what I sometimes have to regret.
Andreas
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Ken,
I have been following the reports of your progress with this model with great interest. You certainly work fast and you must be very pleased that she has had her first trial in the water. Congratulations on a super model. Are you ready to start your next project?????
Robert
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Thank you everyone for your kind comments and responses. I am very pleased you like her.
She is not quite finished as there is a list of things to complete, just to make her presentable. I'm not starting the next one yet awhile until I know she is ready (because she deserves it) ;)
Once again, thank you all
ken
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Hey Kenny,
I wanted to chime in on how much I have enjoyed following your build. Congratulations on a successful Builders' Trials and I'm looking forward to seeing her maiden voyage upon completion. (avoid those icebergs).
Here is a list as to why I've enjoyed this build;
(1) Regular updates. Unfortunately for most of us, there are too many constraints on time or funds so interest even in our own projects can wain. But your regular updates kept our interest going.
(2) Lot's of pictures. The old proverb says it all; A picture is worth a thousand words. You not only showed us what you were doing, you allowed us to criticize (constructively of course) things that didn't seem to look quite right. Something we couldn't have accomplished easily with words alone. I felt as if I were part of the project.
(3) Step by Step instruction. There were no major gaps in the construction process. You didn't go from cutting the windows in the hull to fitting out the deck houses. Although in modeling it is possible to work on separate components simultaneously, you presented your build in a very logical order; something that novice builders can really appreciate.
Keep up the good work, and have an extra beer, you've earned it.
Randy
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Cheers, Randy.
Now to fit the capping rails and sticky tape around the hull. Then it's on to fitting out the lounge. These will be made on their own floorboards, so that they can inserted in one go. ( hmpph!! how do make 15mm wicker chairs?) :whistle
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( hmpph!! how do make 15mm wicker chairs?) :whistle
Out of straw of course..... Some people just have no imagination! :hehe :sorry
Eddy
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There's a hole in my bucket, dear Eddy, dear Eddy .... etc.
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Okay Ken, I'll try to be serious for once :)
If you simplify the chair slightly, so it looks like the one in the image below, they would be easy to make from styrene sheet - Get an image of a flat wicker panel, and print some copies off on your printer at a suitable scale - Then wrap the images around the back, front, and seat panel..... voila, simulated wicker chairs....
Eddy
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Love it
That's the way to go
Thanks, Eddy
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Oh, and while your making them, knock up two or three dozen for me please :hehe
Eddy
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You know me with production lines. ;) I'll probably have a few spare.
Today we drilled all the Lime timber with 1mm holes and placed the cut pieces on to the stanchions. This turned out to be quite a delicate job. As of yet, we do not have them secured or shaped to blend together, but the effect is shown here. (250) (251)
You will notice that we have the name proudly shown on the bow. This was done with sticky transfers and looks reasonable from a distance, but close up is not so good. I had considered a thicker type of lettering but have not found a suitable product at the boat fair.
Also fitted is the new rear flagpole. (252)
Because we cannot bend Lime wood very sharp we have made a curved section from plywood for the stern, and have it drilled to fit the rear stanchions.
The masts have had their rings made for the rope supports to be attached. As Turn-buckles are £3 each, we decided to make our own. All 14 have been made from two sizes of plastic tube and a wire has been run through with eyes turned into the ends. These have been painted grey and when dry, will be attached to the deck and masts with suitable rope.
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Good to see further progress Ken, but I hope you mind me being a bit negative? The rail cappings are just far too thick, they need to be half that thickness or less....
It's better that I say that now, before you get them glued in place!
Eddy - the bearer of bad tidings...
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Hi,
This is a superb build! I do have one comment, though...I feel that the white band on the funnels is a tiny bit too thick-the black should be thicker than the white. Look below.
(http://www.waverleyandbalmoral.co.uk/waverley/articles07/finale2/20071013090depGreenock.jpg)
Other than that a superb model and I look foward to seeing it finished!
Jack.
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Good to see further progress Ken, but I hope you mind me being a bit negative? The rail cappings are just far too thick, they need to be half that thickness or less....
It's better that I say that now, before you get them glued in place!
Eddy - the bearer of bad tidings...
I thought that, when I stood back for a general view. Width wise they will be rounded over tops, but their height is too much.
They are not glued down yet, so no harm done. I appreciate your comments, so please keep me informed.
ken
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Hi,
This is a superb build! I do have one comment, though...I feel that the white band on the funnels is a tiny bit too thick-the black should be thicker than the white.
Jack.
Yes, Jack. I shall be correcting this with the addition of 'tape lining bands' and will bring it more into line with the original ship. That way, I shall look like an expert 'paint sprayer' ;)
ken
p/s I've painted the paddle wheel covers and can't wait to see what you think of em!!!! ;D
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To bring the model up in the field of accuracy, and authenticity, we have altered a few of the details.
First of all, the capping rails were a little on the deep side and sanding them wasn't really an option, so they were ripped off. The substitute version has been made from cut plastic card and drilled and fitted to the stanchions. (253) (254) (255). These will be veneered to complete the effect.
You will notice that the rigging has been fitted to my home made turnbuckles and secured down with super glue. How do you get the stuff off from your lips? I was wetting my fingers to twist the ropes after gluing. Live and learn eh.
It was then on to the funnels, where the white band was to wide. This was actually measured from the original drawings as these sizes and dimensions. However, the ship itself shows a much thinner band of white.
As you know, it's almost impossible to add paint to a structure without showing the join, so the whole lot was rubbed down. We started again with the primer and have started the colouring with the red coat. This will be marked off and the other colours added soon. (256)
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A nice job Ken, the capping rails look much better.
My normal trick with superglue is to breath on it so it sets faster - The water vapour in your breath causes it to cure much quicker..... But then try explaining to the wife how you managed to glue a model to your mouth!! :(
Eddy
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Hi PD's......Ken...you mentioned on the day of the inaugural water pond test + a few drops of rain from Mother nature.......that you would need preserve the decks with :hammer....assumed as a urathane spray........
I cannot see if this has been completed....but there is an alternative called CARNAUBA wax........very similar to neutral shoe polish
Just rub rub rub it into the timber decking....three or four coats & you end up with a totally dull & waterproof surface
1) it does not present as the urathane spray with thick translucence
2) it does not darken the original timber hue
3) it does not remain sticky or necessarily attract dust
In OZ ...the smallest tin is 125 gms for about $8.00 AUD....[which is enough to treat 20 decks the size of your PS Waverley] it can be used for fine furniture restoration ...if you have not completed the decks...do a GOOGLE search on.......Feast Watson - Master Touch - Carnauba Wax....just a thought - Derek
Here is an extract from the WEB site...they talk about interior use....but all of the rain that caused NOAH to build his paddler :hehe could not damage a deck treated with this :no1b product
A blend of premium carnauba wax and natural oils that protects, rejuvenates and enhances the beauty of timber whilst giving a soft lustrous sheen.
Feast Watson Mastertouch Wax is suitable for interior use on sealed woodwork or fine sanded, bare timber including furniture and floors. Mastertouch Wax is easier to work than beeswax and provides a tougher surface, giving better protection.
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Very nice Ken, we all appreciate your efforts in posting all your work, it will be of great help to a lot of people. As regards the letters for the name etc. Slaters (Model railway accessory manufacturer, you probably already use their plastic card) do a set of plastic lettering which is injection moulded in various sizes and the O gauge size is about right at 1/43 scale . I have used it on numerous models over the years ( I think sandy Thompson has used them on a lot of his paddlers as well). I stick them in plce with varnish after painting them. When the varnish has set, a thin coat of varnish over the letters seals them in place. Hope this helps, Walter.
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Hi PD's......Ken...you mentioned on the day of the inaugural water pond test + a few drops of rain from Mother nature.......that you would need preserve the decks with :hammer....assumed as a urathane spray........
I cannot see if this has been completed....but there is an alternative called CARNAUBA wax........very similar to neutral shoe polish
Hi Derek
I like that idea. I will research it and have a go
Cheers
ken
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Hi Walter
They are being made, even as I post. Should look and last a bit better.
cheers
ken
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....Slaters (Model railway accessory manufacturer, you probably already use their plastic card) do a set of plastic lettering which is injection moulded in various sizes....
I use those where raised letters are needed but 'Lettraset' (or similar) rub-on transfers where they are painted on the real ship. Slaters lettering is much easier to use though, I found, and it's difficult to find transfers of the correct size and shape, especially in white, plus they are hell to get in an exact straight line and not get bits of other letters from the sheet stuck on the surface!
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That looks nice Mick. I hope mine come out all right.
The funnels have been re sprayed, (257) and then we then got on with veneering the capping rails. As you can see they are all taped down and have been left to set all night. They are very fragile in this state and it is hoped they will strengthen up when dry. (258)
The little people were then re painted in more realistic colours. These came from China, where they think we all wear yellow trousers and have black hair!! (People)
The front mast was then rigged and secured, and we made a little flag pole for the bow. (259)
I had a go at sign writing the name on the paddle box sides. See picture 257. I don't rate it very much, but it was a laugh.
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The Home straight
Well, here we are at the end. She is finished.
Although there are a few minor details to complete, the actual building work has come to an end.
Thank you all for your kind comments. It was a thoroughly enjoyable build.
If you remember, all I bought was the bare hull and a kit of paddle wheels. The rest was scratch built using only the drawings and loads of photographs. She is, after all, the most photographed ship in the UK, so no problems there with details.
Having re-read the complete posting, it was quite a journey, with many ups and downs. Corrections were made as we went along, and now we have a model to be proud of. Where on earth am I going to store her?
Work has started on the You Tube video and I will let you know when it’s up and running. I seem to have taken over 400 pictures, which now need sorting and collating into some sort of order, so I still have something to occupy my time.
Here are the final pictures of her in the workshop. (260-265)
Catch you again
Ken
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Absolutely magnificent Ken.... Certainly a job well done, and although you probably want a break from paddlers for a while now, I hope you'll consider another one in the future?
Now you need to pray for some fine weather so you can fully appreciate just how relaxing a paddler is to sail :)
If your stuck for somewhere to store it, I have a free shelf here - Of course I would never dream of actually sailing it when you weren't around :porkies
Regards
Eddy
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Hello Kenny,
Wow! What a trip. It seems like only yesterday that you began the build and here you are with it complete! Beautiful job. As far as storing her, I do recall someone here on the site who's wife has lots of room on top of her new piano. ;D
Randy
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Hi PD's.......& Tug Kenny asks........
Where on earth am I going to store her?
Pride of place in the lounge room Ken ...on top of the television ....on top of the grand panio? :great
Not only a build... :hammer to be proud of...but also a great thread.... & :kewlpics well done :clap...regards Derek
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Thank you everyone.
She was a real pleasure to build. I'm working on the finer points at the moment. (couldn't put her aside yet !!)
As regards to storage, I shall have to build a bigger rack, as we don't have a piano. :whistle
What next I wonder, as my fingers are itching allready.
ken
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Wonderful build thread I have enjoyed reading it and looked forward to the next installment. Marvelous model and full credit to you for sharing with us a marvelous build.
I do hope you start another one soon.
Daryl
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Kenny, your Waverley turned out very nice. When are you going to shoot a video of it on the water?
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Wonderful build thread I have enjoyed reading it and looked forward to the next installment. Marvelous model and full credit to you for sharing with us a marvelous build.
I do hope you start another one soon.
Daryl
Thanks, Daryl. I'll see what come up. ;)
ken
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Kenny, your Waverley turned out very nice. When are you going to shoot a video of it on the water?
Thank you, Kno3. I'm working on it at the moment. I want to get the lines and lettering on her first.
I've slowed down a bit at the moment. The 'Old back', you know, makes flitting around a lot slower. :(
cheers
ken
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very nice
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Well done Ken,
love to see it sail up in the northeast sometime
Whats the next project! or does she who must be obeyed have a work list for the house!
Sandy
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Hi Sandy & PD's
The world tour starts next year. ;)
I have been beavering away. I have the lining strips on and thinking about how to remove the letters previously stuck on. I don't want to ruin the paint work so have been putting it off. The weather has turned in very cold, so visits to the workshop are governed by the temperature!! The trapped nerve in my back doesn't help either.
I've started on the 'Movie' and it's turning into a 'Warner Bros special' It really is very complex with 300 pictures and 2 hours of 'Digital film'. I shall have to edit it strongly to get within 'You tubes' space limit. My computer is struggling to process the amount of information, so I'm considering upgrading that as well. Busy busy, I'm working harder than when I was employed. Great fun. Time is rushing by.
I'm also working on a 'secret' project which will be released in a 'one go' blog. :whistle
all the best
ken
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Hi PD's...& :hehe...as Ken talks about ....a 'Warner Bros special' ...we must not forget that the same Irish Samuel [Sam] Warner was my 24th removed great geat uncle....... the trials & transcripts from the Olde Bailey would not tell a lie ...would they?............. :gathering ...........Derek :beer
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Hi Sandy & PD's
The world tour starts next year. ;)
And of course, the Darlington Paddler Day will be on the list?
I'm also working on a 'secret' project which will be released in a 'one go' blog. :whistle
Hmmm, keeping secrets from us now eh? :porkies :darn
Eddy
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Hi Sandy & PD's
The world tour starts next year. ;)
And of course, the Darlington Paddler Day will be on the list?
Eddy
The pinicle of the tour :yeahbaby I've saved up enough for an hotel already.
ken
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I'm also working on a 'secret' project which will be released in a 'one go' blog. :whistle
Hmmm, keeping secrets from us now eh? :porkies :darn
Eddy
I'm sure you'll find it interesting, mmmmm ;)
ken
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And of course, the Darlington Paddler Day will be on the list?
Eddy
The pinicle of the tour :yeahbaby I've saved up enough for an hotel already.
Good man Ken - Seriously, it will be great to meet you at long last..... If you need any help booking a B&B when the dates are confirmed just let me know - Unfortunately we seem to live in an area that is expensive for B&B's, but I do know a couple that are a bit cheaper than the rest.
Regards
Eddy
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Well done Ken,
I will call by sometime . . . just getting over a dose of flu so have stayed clear!
Would be great to see her afloat oneday? We'll have to have a paddler day here oneday . . . i'll bring my Princess Elizabeth along.
Chris
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I hope you're soon better, Chris, then we can go to Roath lake in Cardiff.
I've been there with the Boston Typhoon and it's a smashing place for us as the car is only 10 foot away from the waters edge.
I've completed my movie film of the construction and it runs for 40 mins. I then had to make a shortened version for 'You Tube'. Cannot post it yet as my sound card has failed, so it's off for a new machine with more processing power. (the times is jammed whilst doing the movie overworked the poor thing)
regards
ken
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My Movie of the whole build is now up and running on "You Tube"
http://ca.youtube.com/watch?v=xDuRdP9HCMU
As its ten minutes long, it take a while to load, so please let the red line get ahead of you before clicking the start button, otherwise it stops during the film show.
Enjoy,
ken
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Nicely done video Ken.... Very professional.
I think there are a few seconds missing from the end though..... The bit that has the plug for Paddleducks :whistle
Regards
Eddy
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Hi Ken,
once more congratulations for your work on the model as well as for the video, i like to watch it, can't wait to see your model on the pond.
Regards Hans
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Nicely done video Ken.... Very professional.
I think there are a few seconds missing from the end though..... The bit that has the plug for Paddleducks :whistle
Regards
Eddy
Thank you 'Chief'. I probably don't need to say it was a lot of work. :coffee
Did you read the write up before the film? ;) How could I not mention the Paddleduck crew. All that lovely help. I couldn't have done it without them. Thanks guys
All the best
Ken
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Hi Ken,
once more congratulations for your work on the model as well as for the video, i like to watch it, can't wait to see your model on the pond.
Regards Hans
Thank you Hans. Much appreciated.
Eddy, can you mail me your 'E address' please?
Ken
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Eddy, can you mail me your 'E address' please?
Ken
I've just emailed you Ken, so you should have it.... eddy.matthews@paddleducks.co.uk
Eddy
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Hi PD's....I see that on Model Mayhem........Ken has his 9.XX minute Waverley build as a viewable video & :crash...what a great view it is.....
I for one would be interested in more on the toothed belt & engine drive system & the steam sound generator......like is the sound generator programable to offer a twin cylinder sound?...or is my deafness greater than I think? :hehe
A note of caution here PD's......the same Model Mayhem now has a thread topic all about alcoholism & the DEMON drink....don't go there if you are afraid :beer.....Derek
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Hey Ken, loved the video, well done!
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I for one would be interested in more on the toothed belt & engine drive system & the steam sound generator......like is the sound generator programable to offer a twin cylinder sound?...or is my deafness greater than I think? :hehe
Hi Derek
I used a 50/1 motor running on 12 volts. This has a toothed drive wheel of 16 teeth. The belt drives another toothed wheel with 32 teeth, so this makes the speed reduction of 100, but increases the torque. The driven wheel is located on the shaft with a breakable pin through, in case the paddles jam up on external debris. It might be to much of a reduction, because she doesn't actually go that fast in the water.
The sound generator is indeed twin cylinder and I believe it was taken from the actual Waverley itself. The unit was made by the now defunct JJC company, and is speed controlled from the motors. When the motors stop for over 30 seconds, the sound hisses off. All very realistic. The sound runs to a 3 inch speaker located in the bow, facing rearwards so that the sound is fed under the funnels and comes up with the smoke. (is that a smoky sound?). I have fitted an AcTion switcher to this to enable me to switch off the sound in mid cruise, so as not to upset the local bird life.
Cheers ... ken
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Hey Ken, loved the video, well done!
Thank you, ancoaster. I'm sorry it's not very long.
The original is 45 minutes and I had to cut it down drastically for the You Tube parameters. It took three up loadings before they would accept it. It does jump in stages, but it still gives a reasonable picture of the work involved. perhaps I should sell the full version ?
all the best
ken
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Hi Ken. Congratulations on completion of your Waverley. Thanks for sharing the entire construction experience, difficulities and hints on the Forum. I'm sure all readers are now much the wiser for when they are in construction mode.
The video is brilliant. Can you please advise which editing program and version number you are using, as I was impressed with the graphics and merges.
Cheers.
Misterbee.
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Hi Ken. Congratulations on completion of your Waverley. Thanks for sharing the entire construction experience, difficulities and hints on the Forum. I'm sure all readers are now much the wiser for when they are in construction mode.
The video is brilliant. Can you please advise which editing program and version number you are using, as I was impressed with the graphics and merges.
Cheers.
Misterbee.
Thank you for the comments. Much appreciated.
The editing program was from 'Power Director' version 6. It must be easy to use , as I'm doing it. ;)
cheers ...ken
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A few finishing touches were added today.
I decided that the Yellow line was not a very good yellow colour, so I've fitted new strips all around.
The name lettering was supplied by Barrie W, and it's superb. It's made of vinyl and machine made. Thank you Barrie, I think it looks the bees knees (as they say) (268) (269)
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I've just found this site and this build is fantastic. I want a paddler for my next project and had decided it was going to be either the PS Waverley of the Jeannie Deans. After reading this I think I want the Waverley.
Brilliant
Iain
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Hi Iain,
First of all, welcome to Paddleducks. You will find us a friendly bunch of fellow builders.
Yes, Have a go on Waverley. You will have a great time and should be be able to improve on mine, after seeing the trials I went through. ;)
If you want any help, then please don't hesitate to ask us.
All the best
Ken
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Forgot to mention that I'm off to Barry Island tomorrow with her for speed trials. 8)
I'll take some pictures for the record. I'm also taking WaveSpringerly, so the two on the lake together should look something. I hope there's not may people around as I'm not sure how she will perform. I also hope it's not too wet, as I've not yet varnished the decks. :(
ken
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Very good indeed - and I see one of the 'related videos' that comes up is on the springer version... :)
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Took her off to the lake today for some filming. I also took along her baby sister, the WaveSpringerly.
Here is the movie.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-gl5W6OZRV4
Both ships performed beyond expectations and I'm very pleased.
What next then......
ken
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Hi Ken,
I must admit that I did have visions of Waverley being slightly top heavy, but I was wrong - She performs perfectly!! I'll bet your over the moon with that!
What next? Another paddler of course!! :hehe
Regards
Eddy
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Thanks for your comments, Eddy. Yes, she sails like a dream. A little underpowered against my friends tugs, but her grace exceeds all. The turning circle is rather large, so I made allowances as I steamed ! around. :whistle
Seemed to draw a crowd. (why is that !!)
Next one has to be stern wheeler. Something about 5 foot long ?? and not too high. I'm open to suggestions.
all the best
ken
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Ken,
Looks great!! I have the hull in storage,... seeing yours sailing makes me want to get started!
regards,
Clark
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Excellent Ken.. :clap....I am not sure if you intentionally changed the background music when 'baby paddler' appeared ,,,,but some of the lyrics were most appropriate :hehe .......Derek
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Hi,
an excellent model on the water! But I would do a little bit of tuning the drive system. Was better, if wind will come.
My DIESSEN has a big circle, too, I need half of the lake for a turn.
Andreas
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Ken,
Looks great!! I have the hull in storage,... seeing yours sailing makes me want to get started!
regards,
Clark
Glad to have encouraged you, Clark. Yes, have a start. You will soon be engrossed.
The lamposts for the gangways have finally arrived from China, so it's finishing touches time. ;)
ken
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Excellent Ken.. :clap....I am not sure if you intentionally changed the background music when 'baby paddler' appeared ,,,,but some of the lyrics were most appropriate :hehe .......Derek
Thanks Derek. I do love the music side and try to get it right. (My nickname is KeyboardKen from my musical days as a piano repairer) :sunglasses
Mind you, the first tune was rejected as I'd copied it from a CD. They don't like at "You Tube" you know. Something about copyright. Seems a code is written to the track that their computer sees and blocks it, so beware here, everyone.
ken
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Hi new to this site, just to say your model looks great hope mine will look like that when finished. your thread made fascinating reading cheers.
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Hi new to this site, just to say your model looks great hope mine will look like that when finished. your thread made fascinating reading cheers.
Hi Jamiesboy
Go for it. There are pictures of her all over , so choose a year of the model and copy it. I assume from your email that you are in the UK, so might see at the shows.
Ken
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There's quite a good article in model boats 'july 1993 (if you can still get a copy) unfortunately I only have part one but there's pictures showing how the deck fittings look and where they go - or did in 1991 (it's built to the way the ship looked at the time)
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There's quite a good article in model boats 'july 1993 (if you can still get a copy) unfortunately I only have part one but there's pictures showing how the deck fittings look and where they go - or did in 1991 (it's built to the way the ship looked at the time)
That article is in our Downloads section Mick....
Regards
Eddy
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Hi Ken thanks for the encouragement I have studied the Waverley for many years. My first sail 0n her was in 1985 when I was only 5 years old and I fell in love with her then she's a grand old lady and for many years never missed a sail on her. Unfortunately due to work commitments I've not been on board for a few years but plan to be back this year. I'm from Glasgow the home of the first commercially "viable" paddle steamer the "Comet" viable as it's very hard to say exactly who or where the first paddler was made.Look forward to tailing more with you
Yours Jamesieboy
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My new movie of Waverley's build is now up and running on You Tube.
Cheers. :beer
Ken
http://www.paddleducks.co.uk/index.php
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Nice vid ken inspirering thanx
James
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Thank you James.
I still have the lamp posts to fit, and feel inspired to continue (after my break with her)
I've also concluded that I need faster motion on the wheels. When in the water it slows them down under the regulation 60 RPM. I'm using a 50/1 gearbox and might change it to a 25/1 ratio. I don't necessarily have to drive on full throttle, but it will be there as a back up.
Get making then ;)
ken
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Hi Kenny I have started my build, but it may take sometime as i am scratch building it, from the hull up. Also I am in to classic cars and have to get my Hillman Avenger ready for its first show in may. I am also currently restoring two more!! Hope to start my own report on my build soon, with pictures of my progress so far. Haven't decided on which year to base it on yet
Jamesieboy
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It was back to the build recently.....
I have changed the gear ratio on the paddle drive system by fitting one-one pully wheels on the shaft instead of one-two.
This has the effect of doubling the paddlewheel speed. :whistle. When tested in the lake, the ship moved with a better power to weight ratio and also the steerage improved greatly.
Spurred on by this , I then wired up the smoke machine to the 24 volts required, and had it switch on and off by using an ACTion switcher unit. Unfortunately, this involved fitting two 6 volt lead batteries on each side of the unit in front of the motor, which made her Bow heavy.
I took her to the lake on Sunday and noticed this on the water, but tried a little sail. When underway she seemed to be dipping the bow so I brought her in.
Good job I did because the water had been pouring in through the square windows at a rate of knotts and she would have sunk. The amount of water inside gave me the biggest fright of my life. I was horrified to think of the consequencies.
I think I may have reached over my weight limit now, so I'll have to think of further Mods to get her back to the water line. Still, for one glorious moment she looked good with all lights on, smoking like a good un, and sound generator blasting away (pity about the speaker cone !!) ;)
ken
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I have been through this build blog replacing the missing pictures which were lost during the changeover.
I hope I've got most of it right and I'm sorry for some missing pictures which were submitted by other members. If you see one of yours is missing. then please feel free to re-submit it , if this is possible.
Thanks for following the build.
Cheers
Ken