Hi All
Ok, more research = more questions

How would people feel if the wheel set were held together with nylon/ plastic nuts and bolts rather than metal / brass nuts and bolts? (assuming they would be of similar / identical size as their metal counterparts)
My reasons for asking -

1. They would be lighter ?
2. Graupner sell many with plastic rivets and have few complaints?? Nuts and bolts are a more permanent / robust fixing and possibly more scale?
3.Once painted how knows anyway?
Would really appreciate any and all feedback on this question.
Many thanks,
Kim

hmmm, I'm not sure about plastic nuts and bolts Kim....

Can you get them small enough? I've never seen any below about 4mm diameter.

The threads are generally a very coarse pitch and therefore the nuts are much thicker than metal ones.

Lastly they break easily if your a bit too enthusuastic when tightening them.

So apart from a saving in weight (which would be marginal), and perhaps a small saving in cost, I don't see that they really have a whole lot going for them..... Sorry but that's my opinion

Eddy

hi Kim

I tend to agree with Eddy. In fact brass BA nuts and bolts are actually cheaper in bulk than the bigger nylon/delrin ones.

My preference for the perfect paddle wheel would be.

PVC turned hub (can be tapped for bolts)

Brass etched paddle pivots, control arms and rivet detail.

ABS/PVC or even wood Paddle floats.

Spokes in ABS or PVC.

Wheel rims in etched brass (if thin) otherwise PVC or ABS

and definitely brass nuts bolts and studs

Stuart

Eddy many thanks for your thoughts.
I have found a supplier that does M2 with similar/identical diameter/measurements.
The saving cost is significant and that's my reason for asking.
many thanks any other thoughts would be appreciated  

P.S. - Interestingly the nylon bolts/nuts come with a tighter thread.

At 1/48th scale an M2 nut would be about 10 inches diameter to scale. At 24th scale 20inches Dats BIG!

Stuart

Hi,
You sure about that Stuart?
By my reckoning a M2 nut is around 4mm dia - so that in real life from 1:48 would give a 7.5" dia. nut (3.75"dia thread)
and from 1:24 would represent a real life 3.75" dia nut (1.875" dia thread)
could be wrong
kiwi

I seem to be having trouble with my numbers today! My UNRESERVED apologies to all!

Perhaps building scale models is not an occupation I should indulge in!!!

Stuart

Quote from: Stuart Badger on September 19, 2009, 07:23:39 AM
I seem to be having trouble with my numbers today! My UNRESERVED apologies to all!

Perhaps building scale models is not an occupation I should indulge in!!!

Stuart

Eddy

Ok Guys it's late at night so forgive the maths,
I do appreciate the comments.

If i go for brass / metal it does make a big difference to the cost. The difference in size between plastic and metal head screws / nuts is 0.2mm, which in scale terms is arguable?

Question - what would be the ideal diameter 1 / 48 scale nut and bolt? Is such a diameter available in nuts and bolts?
Regards,
Kim

I put some items together with plastic and nylon nuts and bolts at one time for a theater prop. It went together in an hour, I then spent the next week re tightening and replacing loose and missing parts. When the production ended the prop-master presented me with a sledge hammer and told me to enjoy myself.
If I was going to use plastic and nylon nuts and bolts again I would glue everything together after installing them.
Regards,
Gerald

Hi PD's.......Talisman....here is a link to a table on BA thread form.......I am building @ 1:24 & find 10 BA [1.7 mm diameter] suitable...this equates to a 40 mm diameter stud diameter

So you must answer your own question...........but I am guessing that 16BA may be suitable for 1:48 scale & should be readliy available in brass.....but they are tiny 

Only a few rules to follow....the higher the number = the smaller diameter.......the smaller diameter = the higher the cost - Derek 

http://www.sizes.com/tools/thread_BA.htm

Despite being disappointed about not being able to attend the paddler day some info regarding etching came through the door today:)

I have to say the samples do look impressive and the possibility of producing a fine set of wheels has cheered me up slightly.

Stuart many thanks for your thoughts on an ideal set of wheels i will use them as a reference / bench mark for my efforts.

P.S
the poll has been altered to be visible - results look as i expected - Many thanks to all that have voted
Pics of samples -

Quote from: Talisman on September 17, 2009, 06:50:05 AM
A busy day today...




2. Sourced a supplier of M1 threaded rod , M1 nuts and bolts in quantity and cost that is not prohibitive to making the kits commercially

Hmm...
I received a sample of my M1 threaded rod today........ M10 they sent.... expecting this just to be a mistake i now find out that M1 threaded rod is hellish difficult to make for less than £50 a meter.....
Back to the drawing board...

Regards
Kim

Sorry Kim........"only a few rules to follow....the higher the number = the smaller diameter.......the smaller diameter = the higher the cost" 

I am not a machinist [since 40 years ago  ]....but I doubt that M1.0 diameter would be produced as threaded bar 1000 mm long..... ..........Derek

Hi Kim

I presume you're using 1mm rod (threaded) for the horizontal bracing and/or the paddle float pivot shafts?

I use 1mm rod too - threaded 12 BA (1mm rod being 40thou or exactly the right size for a 12 BA die). I would have thought that there should be plenty of small light engineering outfits able and willing to thread just the ends of short lengths to accept nuts (ideal job for a small capstan lathe). Or do you Need the whole length to be threaded?

Stuart