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Small Edwardian Paddle Steamer

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Ive started on a styrene hull, but progress is a bit slow, with the main structure of the hull being made from 1.0mm styrene with a shallow v at the bottom of the hull to help with stability. Im trying to keep the weight down of the hull and am hoping for a weight of 100-120 grams with paddles, motors and radio gear, which will also alow me to add some ballast to the bottom of the hull to help with stability, but only time will tell as Im making this up as I go along. Im thinking of building from the deck down rather than the keel up as its a nice flat surface. I'll cut the keel after I've finished the hull, it'll be too deep but I can clamp on to it if necessary. where the keel piece joins the deck along its length there are 1mm pins on each side if it to keep the alignment correct. due to the thinness of the styrene sheet, steel and rare earth magnets are good for clamping. there will be a small mast on this model, so I ended up making that section of the framework wider to provide additional support. and here are a few pics of the construction so far

Walter Snowdon:
Hello optima. you are doing well!. A few years ago the now defunct Marine modelling published a book entitled "model ships (or boats) in styrine". . The authors name was Webb. It was full of information with a feature article on building a nice model of PS Princess Elizabeth with loads of very practical information including building a set of feathering wheels. I am sorry I no longer have my copy otherwise you could have had it!. Worth searching for.Our good late friend Hans Freund made me two sets of Routed) wheel frames in styrine    suitable for a paddler under 36 inches. If you look at the site photo gallery PADDLER DAYS you will find a very good picture of them on his Edwarian paddle steramer sitting on his model case marked PADDLEDUCKS ON TOUR. My model stuff is in lockdown in our clubhouse. When I have access I will send you a set.  Regards Walter.

Hi Walter,

thanks for your encouragement, and I've got that book and as you say its a good introduction to styrene modeling, with the advantage that styrene is much lighter than metal, and as boat models get smaller weight is much more of an issue. I do like the look of the edwardian steamer you're talking about and definately be influencing how mine will look...... thats if I get a hull that goes in the direction I point it.  The paddle wheels I'll be using will be less than 50mm diameter, and having seen discussions about feathered vs non feathered paddles on here, I think for me using solid paddles may be the better bet  as the advantage of feathered paddles may not be worth it due to the additional complexity of the making of them, but there are some knowledgeable gents on here that can point me in the right direction.

I dont know if I said it before, but the framework for the hull is  being made from 1.0mm styrene sheet and the plating of the outside of hull will be 0.75mm styrene.

and here's my method of making the frames

1) use sticky labels on the styrene to draw the parts you're making on, unless its very simple as pencil rubs off styrene too easily
2) cut the slots for locating in the transverse frames onto the keel. drill a 1.0mm hole and cut the sides of the slot a bit narrow and then open the slot out to be a sliding fit on the keel. as the slot is thinner than a file, I opted for using a large diamond coated wheel for use in a dremel.
3) fit the frame to the keel frame and cut the sides of the transverse frame to the width of the deck
4) draw the inside of the transverse frame so that can be cut out to reduce weight.
5) drill corner holes on the inside of the transverse frame
6) join the holes by cuttting with a hooked blade. its more accurate than my use of a piercing saw, but if I was using thicker styrene or doing curves I'd use a saw.
7) file the edges of the hole to the drawn lines, when I use this vice and sit down to do the filing, the part Im filing is at roughly eye level to easier to see what Im doing

the a finished transverse frame

also shown is how the profile of the hull will change and the deadrise angle will increase to the bow.

hopefully that makes sense, Im not too technical on the parts of a boat yet, but well see how it works sooner or later.

the frames are now finished, no.1  is the bow end, and glued in place with styrene cement, the frames will be a bit wobbly until the sides are glued in place, so some 1.5mm dia styrene has been superglued in place to support the frames and stop them flexing when the hull sides are glued on. hopefully I can remove them when the hull sides have been glued in place.

 :clap :clap :clap :clap :clap :clap


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