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1
Construction / Re: Blockade Runner "Colonel Lamb"
« Last post by derekwarner_decoy on June 09, 2021, 02:09:05 PM »
Hi Thomas.......these straight cut spur gears in the 38 tooth to 15 tooth look very interesting

May I ask where these are from, as the Product from SPDI in USA are very, very expensive  :ranting

So in image 3558, we see the generous elongated mounting slot....do you just careful find the appropriate engagement between the gears & lock the engine up?

Again I am guessing,,...what are the gear widths?
------------------

My 9 tooth : 48 tooth provided a 4.76: 1 reduction for my Saito Y2DR which was too high :shoot, so I have ordered a 16 tooth chain pinion  which will then be 16 to 48 = 2.66:1 reduction which I believe will provide a more realistic or lower engine speed

Derek
2
Construction / Re: Blockade Runner "Colonel Lamb"
« Last post by Hankwilliams on June 08, 2021, 10:15:20 PM »
New Graham TVRIA engine finished and converted for paddle use. The weight of this engine is only 650 g - compared with the Regner 12/36 with 3,4 kg. Bore and stroke are 12,6 mm by 15,8 mm - so there must be a gear reduction to paddle shaft by 38 : 15 or 2,6 : 1. The conversion was done in the same way like my 3 further TVRIA in paddlers "Marchioness of Lorne", "Mindon" and "Presto".
Tomorrow I will make a steam up.

Thomas
3
Construction / Re: Small Edwardian Paddle Steamer
« Last post by optima21 on June 03, 2021, 05:36:27 PM »
thanks for your kind words guys :) and this is the only place where Im posting this project. I've done some CAD work on the boat with solid modelling.......when I say CAD, that's Cardboard Aided Design.  ;D

so here's roughly what it might look like when its done, but can still change at any time.  I ended up getting a few cheap books off ebay for inspiration, and they'll end up in the local model engineers / boating club library. as then others can use then too rather being stuck on my shelf and not being seen again. I find it so much easier handling a book rather than trawling the internet looking for pictures etc.

ohh and Ive got a deadline of 7/07/21 to to get this finished for for an open day at the model boating club.
4
Construction / Re: Small Edwardian Paddle Steamer
« Last post by Mike on June 01, 2021, 01:28:01 AM »


  Lovely work and good photo's too. :clap
5
Construction / Re: Small Edwardian Paddle Steamer
« Last post by DamienG on May 31, 2021, 09:22:21 AM »
 :clap :bravo :great
6
Construction / Re: Small Edwardian Paddle Steamer
« Last post by optima21 on May 31, 2021, 04:03:41 AM »
One of the issues with making a small boat is trying to make small windows, and for static modelling, there are modelling versions of pva glue that work well like this

https://www.scalemodelshop.co.uk/product/50ml-glue-n-glaze-deluxe-materials-ad55/

and how to use it

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-RmBRZsZ7to

but they have one issue with a r/c model boat is that they are not waterproof and go milky if they get wet, so not much use to me.

I tried some clear epoxy resin but with mixing it had issues with small bubbles in the mixture and a better option was to use clear gorilla glue

https://www.scalemodelshop.co.uk/product/50ml-clear-gorilla-glue-gorilla/

which worked well, and is waterproof (left in water overnight but with no issues). but has microbubbles in it and has a pale brown tinge to it, but not enough to notice on a model.

so that lead me to looking at using UV curing adhesive, so I got some fairly cheaply off ebay

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/393248007797

I also got some tape that is used for casting the resin on, but its just to use as a smooth surface for casting the window on, you can use insulation tape if you want a slightly frosted look.

so this is my method, the window i "made" was 10mm square which is twice the size of those that I need.

take a piece of the smooth tape and cut it out slightly larger than the window required, this was then put on some masking tape sticky side to sticky side. then stick that over the hole that you want to glaze.

then turn it over and fill the recess with the UV curing adhesive using a cocktail stick to get it into the corners, its is self levelling and air bubbles are easy to pop.

when you're happy leave it in a sunny place for  a while (30 minutes for a first attempt) in a horizontal position and thats it , job done.  this is the second lens I tried to make the lens its 6" away from my phone and the lens is 6" away from the tape roll, so its not too bad.

I also go a UV torch too

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/184754000377

and found for a window it caused the resin to set too quickly so wasnt as clear as with sunlight as the activator. also as the leds have   a specific wavelength there is an issue of the surface remaining tacky , and the answer to that is to leave it in sunlight for a short while. but you can use the resin like superglue but with a worktime of 30 minutes unless you leave it in the sun of shine the torch on it for 30 seconds, and its waterproof and much thinner than epoxy resin so may have other uses too.

back on with the sponsons now I needed to make some extensions to the paddle boxes to cover the mounting screw threads so made some , but they looked too "square before fitting them, so I decided they would look better if the corners were  rounded, so I cuts some triangular sections from 2mm styrene sheet with a 0.15mm wide slitting saw. I also made some portholes too, the tool in the lathe is 0.6mm wide. and then the extensions are glue to the paddle box / sponson. the insulation tape is to stop it being stuck to the hull, and finally a picture of the two completed sponsons and there are 22 separate pieces of styrene in each one.











7
Construction / Re: Small Edwardian Paddle Steamer
« Last post by optima21 on May 31, 2021, 01:56:21 AM »
yeah so far its going pretty well, the bare hull with radio gear works well, and there is more ballast than boat so far, but Im building the boat as light as I can so that I can try and have the weight as low down as I can to help with stability.

time for another update,  I seem to have spent more time thinking about what Im doing with this model rather than making it,  but I'd rather get it right rather than rushing it.

Im happy with these speed controllers

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000430408686.html

but when I tried it on an oscilloscope I was expecting a square wave output rather than having an output like this, so I guess there can be more heat build up in the speed controller at low speed, but at full power on standard radio gear there is only a tiny reduction in full power output, and in reality I cant notice it. (the blue horizontal line is 0v and the waveform is with a free running motor ).

the one of the M1.6 mm holes in the sponson/paddle box has stripped (which I expected) so they were all drillled out and 4mm long threaded styrene inserts were fitted.

I needed some small vent cowls and think they look pretty good  once I'd worked out how to make them. the tops are 6mm wide and the vertical tubes are 4mm

so first I ended up making a form tool to form the radius on the end of the 6mm styrene rod. this was a piece of rusty 3mm gauge plate so I drilled and reamed a 6mm hole in it, and stoned the top face to give a nice sharp cutting edge....ohh and because it was being used on styrene, I didnt harden it, it was just used in its annealed state.
Then cut 10mm off the end of the rod, turned it round in the chuck and drilled it 4mm to remove most of the inside material
The round end then had a flat bottomed 4mm hole milled in it so a 4mm tube could be glued into it.
The "bowl" top of the vent was then parted to length, and the parting tool is 0.6mm wide and this was then glued to the vertical tube.
and then the inside of the top of the vent was created using a 5mm ball nosed milling cutter to create the curved interior, but how do you hold it? mill a recess piece of wood using a 6mm ball nosed cutter and mill a 4mm wide slot for the tube to sit in. and then hold it with tool makers clamp to keep your fingers out of the way.
and a completed vent next to a half done one

I need a couple of small ladders so bought some plastruct ones

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/372912365451

which are 5.4mm wide so I narrowed them using a 0.15mm wide slitting saw to 4mm wide. the ladder was stuck to a lollipop stick with double sided tape and the lollipop stick was stuck to a ruler with double sided tape. the side that was cut off was then cleaned and stuck back on.
8
Construction / Re: Small Edwardian Paddle Steamer
« Last post by william stafford on May 30, 2021, 09:19:55 PM »
you have done well, small paddle steamers are prone to being tender and not good sailers
a mate and my self built similar small models but have found problems, i had more draft on mine and it seems ok, but model not finnished
9
Construction / Re: Blockade Runner "Colonel Lamb"
« Last post by Hankwilliams on May 24, 2021, 09:37:15 PM »
While I`m waiting for my ordered Graham engine, the boiler/burner area was improved and finished. The flame will be enlarged or dimished corresponding to steam production with Regner RC gas cock. All is absolutely steam- and gas tight.
10
Research / PV Julie Fay (Murray River, Australia)
« Last post by Roderick Smith on May 24, 2021, 06:49:18 PM »
Previous references have been in general threads, lost amongst other paddleboats.
Some of the earlier photos don't show any more.

Here is its own thread.

This was built in Port Adelaide, and voyaged under its own power around the coast and through the Murray mouth for half-day tour work at Morgan, then at Mannum.  In 1985 it was sold to Echuca owners.  By 2005 it was based upstream of Cobram, as a private vessel, with little use.  I met it at the top of Barmah Choke in 2013, heading to Echuca for a rally.  After checking the choke by tinnie, the owner decided not to continue.  In 2019 it was sold, and is now positioned as a moored bed & breakfast at Murtho, between Renmark and lock 6 (SA).
https://juliefay.canoetheriverland.com

Attached: the b&b photos.  I'll winkle out mine and post another time.
191023W-Fairfax-Domain-JulieFay, a, b, c, d, e & f.

Roderick Smith
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