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the cylinders, how do you like it, a spring-loaded flange?

looks very well and of great promise!

Keyed one web & gear to the shaft. Thought I would drill into the joint but the drill kept drifting off the chrome. So drilled as close as I could each side. Then diamond file to make it into a slot. cut a wedge & hammered it in. Probably fix other side with epoxy on final assemble.

 

I don't have a rotary table for the mill. So had to improvise cutting the curve in the regulator - reverser. I do have a vice that swivels. With a pointer in the chuck  & a brass bar between the jaws I found the centre of vice pivot. Then the work was super glued to the bar, to the centre. Moving the bed forward the required distance. the job was easy. 
The 2 parts of regulator b parted off 1" brass rod. Learnt today, fix card around rod between tool and steady, this stopped the chips jamming the steady. 
Drilled the back plate & silver soldered the tubes in. Had to drill back down one where the solder got in. Even with carbon on the tube & mean with the solder.

Engine almost complete. Just the springs & fittings for holding the faces together. On the shaft can be seen the spacers that rest against the bearings in the hull keeping the wheels & gear in place. The flats on the shaft to stop grub screws tuning are all inline. I can see the gear is correct line up the wheel will also be right. 

 

Continuing with the separator. For anyone who is not familiar with a separator. The feed tube goes in to the top about 3/8" & the exit tube about a 1/4". So the oil & water can not turn quick enough & falls to the bottom. The empty tube touches the bottom & is normally shut off. When opened & exit shut off, steam will empty contents.
The photo on window board, also shows my granddaughters steam engine, made for me. 

I had forgotten to show the arrangement for holding the cylinders to the port faces.

I have tried to run the engine on air, but failed. I soon found the problem. I had designed the ports to be in from the end of the cylinder, to give better cover. I knew I would need a slot cut in the cylinder wall, to get steam past the piston. I had completely forgotten to do this. The photo shows the slot cut in this end of cylinder now.  The photo is a close up showing all the scratches. The rough looking wall of cylinder are not that bad. they are a good thing as they will hold oil preventing wear.   Well that is the theory.

I just went through the whole thread and - wow- what a hull. That work is really art.

I also looked very closely at your engine, the #1, and maybe my tug build may be steam after all. I already started to make some sketches.

Has she seen water already?

Jurgen

Juergen, good to hear from you. As I said I have been repairing my other boats. So only been in test tank. My club starts sailing Easter. You may like to read my Duke of Devonshire build here. There is a video of one of my engines in steam there.

I am reading.
Lots of pages, 45.
Is just my server or are several pictures lost? There is the thumbnail, but when you click on it it becomes a black X.

Jurgen, hope you find some ideas. I don't know about photos disappearing. If there are special ones you would like to see. Post page number & date, I will see if I can help. Geoff

Have built another engine for the castle. Just to save a little space about 22mm on length & 12 mm on width. Retaining the same bore & stroke. Also going to belt drive instead of gears, to reduce the sound. A problem I have had in other paddlers, any amount of insulation not helping much.