ooop's been in this situation several times 

Thanks Damien, I believe we are not the only ones to have experienced smoking wires. 

Replaced the resistor and now it works.
The picture is not very good because mast lights are much brighter than the position lights. I'm not the photo shop wizard and when I try to lower the intensity in the picture the 3 mast lights become visible as 3, but everything else disappears. So please be forgiving.
For the contact from the lower part to the superstructure I tried something different because the magnet solution is very complicated.
I used thin self-adhesive copper foil. It is used to make stained glass windows and the adhesive supports liquid solder very well.
A strip on each side gives a very reliable contact area.
The wiring of the LEDs is not final. I will do some clean-up and route the wires nicely.

Jurgen

Hullo Jurgen.....I am progressing on very slowly

Could you please confirm [with photographs] of the method of waterproofing or eliminating water from the splash of the wheels from migrating along the paddle shaft into the hull

I am moving the paddle shaft axis from above the crank axis  by 20mm to below the crank axis by 40mm [yes 60 total]

This then elevates the complete steam plant considerably [~~45mm] and so will be far more visible .... I will post a few images in my Saito Engine page

Derek 

Hi Derek,

If you go back to post #97 on page 7 I have shown pictures of the "splash-guard" I built to cover the bearings. It is not completely tight but has worked flawlessly - not a drop of water inside the ship. It covers from the splash from above.
Drawback: it requires the wheel housing to be removable.
The bearing itself has no further seals like an O-ring or similar. It doesn't seem to need any.
The bearing is a simple bronce bearing and the shaft is a 6mm stainless rod I bought in a shop that sells parts for DIY 3D printers. The material is incredibly hard, I needed 3 of the Dremel cutting disks to cut the shaft to size.
A drop of oil seems to be enough for sealing and lubrication.

Jurgen

So I finally have my color laser printer back in working order. Last time I had ordered new OEM toner cartridges the printer would no accept 2 of them. The contact to the service was not satisfying at all, so the printer sat there for a couple of years.
But last week a friend was able to hack the printer and make it accept the cartridges so I'm back in business and finally could print the decals for the machine telegraphs.

The captain is not very happy because the unit doesn't have a handle and he can't send any orders to the engine room.
But that's another story because I tried to make the handles as photo etched parts. That went thoroughly wrong.
I purchased a special paper which allows any print to be transferred to copper or brass by applying heat. Then the part is submerged in some acid which eats away the non-covered part. Well, the print wouldn't stick to the metal. My guess is that I didn't use enough heat, because in some parts it did transfer and stuck very well, but out of 6 which I had printed none was complete..
More testing will follow.

Have a nice holiday and a better (can it become worse?) next year.

Jurgen
Be positive to stay negative.

  Looks great Jurgen.

Fine model! Did you already check, if it will swim and light enough?

Andreas

Thanks Damien.

Hi Andy,
Yes she has been in the water and behaved well. If you go back to Reply 216 on the previous page I have posted a video.
Light enough? All the oposite. She needs almost 10kg of ballast.

Hello,

It's been some time, but I'm still here.
After some quite frustrating atempts to make photo eched parts for the machine telegraph bracket I decided to leave it and do someting else. Like building a plane and repairing others.

In the meantime a fellow modeler made me an offer I couldn't refuse for the model. So it's not mine anymore, but she still sat on my slipway and required to be finished.
So I went back and cut the bracket on my mill. That went surprisingly well, I didn't think that 0.1mm brass would cut cleanly without crinkeling.
The first lever was glued to the bracket but that didn't hold well so I changed to a small solder point. That holds .

I also added some interior to the wheelhouse. I don't know what the red lamp on the table is for, but saw something similar on a picture in the internet and thought it looked good. Maybe it's for some emergency use.
Also added flags.

So now I declare the model to be finished.

Jurgen

Very precise, Jürgen. It looks like not as a model, but a real ship.

Thomas

Thank you Thomas.

I didn't mention that I also changed the cabin lighting to smaller LEDs. Looks much better now.
Normally we have a late meet in the dark at the pond the first  sunday after changing to winter time. Since the ship stays in good hands I will still see her and make a video at the night sailing.

Jurgen