Paddleducks Paddleducks

News:

Welcome to Paddleducks..... The home of paddle steamer modelling enthusiasts from around the world.

Main Menu
+-

Main Menu

UserBox

Welcome, Guest.
Please login or register.
 
 
 
Forgot your password?

Search

Strongbow type tug

Started by Paddlemex, February 02, 2019, 07:19:11 AM

Previous topic - Next topic
|

Paddlemex


Thanks Derek.

Here my explications to lighten your doubts:
Yes, the Port anchor was lifted over the railing with the davit, then the shackles were re-attached to the deck and the hook attached to one of the shackles to avid excessive swinging.
The captain (don't be so cruel ... he's an old man... ) is checking that the starboard anchor is securely bolted to the deck.
On the water?  ...   Who knows. Most everything is still closed down and we haven't been sailing for months.

And the red thingy ... c'm on, Derek, I'm sure you know better ... that is clearly the handwheel of the steam valve which operates the windlass. It is painted red because it get very hot. The 'Caution - Hot - Wear Gloves' sign must have been lost.

Jurgen

Paddlemex


I have to apologize to the experts for having mixed-up Starboard and Port. You were very kind to not point that out and writing in capital letters.

The Portside anchor had been placed on the deck and shackeled to the deck, meanwhile the Starboard anchor had been lifted overboard.

And yes, the anchor chain in the box is what was left over. I may leave the box&chain to add "clutter" to the deck.

Jurgen

derekwarner_decoy

#197
Jurgen....where you see a Modify Command, it is totally acceptable to go back to your post, the use the following process to correct an error..eg.,

Edit......'then the shackles were re-attached to the deck' 'mast'

This then doesn't confuse readers, but clearly allows them to read and understand the correct text or fact


Derek 
Derek Warner

Honorary Secretary [Retired]
Illawarra Live Steamers Co-op
Australia
www.ils.org.au

Paddlemex


I know of the Edit possibility, Derek, but since more than one day had passed I didn't want to change history. However, indicating the edit in red is something I had not considered. Will use it in my next mistake.

Made the lateral sponson fenders. Here I am recycling the shoelace life-boat bands shown some posts back. I didn't like them because they looked much too thick and wide. Already have a possible replacement for those bands. Stay tuned.

For the fenders I slipped a piece of foam rubber into the shoelace section. That is quite easy when you squeeze the foam rubber into a 5mm brass tube, then slip the tube into the shoelace, once in hold the end of the end of foam rubber and pull out the tube. Voilá: the foam is in the fender.
Then a loop of the holding rope is inserted and the ends are wrapped with thin yarn. I fixed the yarn with some CA.

Jurgen


DamienG


Paddlemex


Thanks Damien, Hope you (and all others) are OK.

Now I have become a rope-maker also. When attaching the side fenders on the sponsons I needed a rope a bit thicker than what I had available. I looked-up rope making in the net and found a lot of videos on that topic - all using more or less complex arrangements with at least 3 strands, gears and cranks. Too much for a few lengths of model rope.

But .... if it works with 3 and more strands, what about using just 2???  :thinking

Well, it works.

I fixed a piece of yarn on a nail in the workbench and the other end in a hook in my power drill.
Then I un-twisted the yarn until the individual strands were visible.
Then I changed the end of the un-twisted yarn (which was on the power drill) to the nail. Both ends on the nail now and the mid-point of the yarn on the hook. Length is now half of the original length.
Then I reversed the direction of the drill and re-twisted the 2 strands of yarn. I holds perfectly without any self-un-twisting.

In the picture the brown rope at the top is just doubled from the original yarn. That is used for the sponson fenders.
The clearer rope at the bottom is 6-fold re-twisted yarn. Looks good as a towing rope, but maybe a bit too much as a mooring rope.
Also learned how to splice an end-loop on the rope.

Jurgen



DamienG


kno3

Very ingenious way of making fenders send they look great. Thanks for showing.

Mike



Wow. Very clever. I must try. :bravo

Paddlemex


Thanks for all the applause.

In the meantime I have taken up knitting too.
It's for a good cause - not that I'm thinking of leaving the paddlevirus.

After doing some research in the www I made myself a knitting tool for the front fender.
Again I used the rubber foam stuffing method.
I'd say 'looks OK' but there is an enormous possibility for improvement. I'd like the mesh to be much tighter. More to investigate.

Jurgen

Paddlemex


Made the gangplanks at the towing hook.
The supports are soldered brass, the plank is from an automotive air filter and the frame is a styrene C beam.

Jurgen

Hankwilliams

Really excellent, Jurgen!

Thomas

Paddlemex


Thanks Thomas. Almost ready.

Jurgen

Paddlemex


In post #171 I had shown the crossed protection fenders for the life boat. I really didn't like the looks so I re-worked the whole rigging of the life boat.
The boat now is suspended from a small chain instead of the suborn black yarn and the crossed fenders are narrower and look more appropriate.
In the last pic is the additional rope (required to lower the boat) wound up and hung to the davit.

Jurgen

Robert Hornby

Good job with the rope work Jurgen it looks very profesional, I was thinking about making/buying some side buffers for my model boat so I might just copy your ideas.
Robert
Age and treachery will always overcome youth and skill

|
Powered by EzPortal
SMF spam blocked by CleanTalk