Build at your own pace  Jurgen

......in the real world, any ship rushed .... to meet a completion date always returns to dock for rectification

Derek

PS...enjoy your 

I am aware of that Derek.
I didn't mean to be sloppy, I just plan to put in some extra hours.
Ir I get there : Great. If I dont no problema.

Thanks for your good wishes - I will.

Jurgen

I made the "inner bulwarks" (?). They will hold the superstructure in place and should (!!) avoid eventual water on the deck getting in the hull.
To get a tight fit I fixed the walls to the superstructure with magnets, let them stand over a few mm and tack glue the walls in place. Then - after having removed the superstructure the walls are glued with a generous bead of glue.

Jurgen

 

No, it's not Proud Mary but the wheels on my Morangie Castle have turned for the first time:
https://youtu.be/o6iy6Ipi13E

I have put together all the pieces I have built and the wheels turned with motor and belt.
It looks OK. The portside wheel wobble is within my tolerance, but the starboard wheel needs some correction. I hope I can fix that with some gentle bending of the whole assembly.
Also there is some clack-clack I don't like.

On the downside I have abandoned the goal of sailing her next Sunday. So many details left and I completely forgot about the splash guards inside the paddle box in the bearing area. I have already made some sketches, but no way to cut and install those parts.
So she will have to wait until I am back to see real water.

Thanks for the applause Damien.

Jurgen

Jurgen....excellent...I would not be concerned with the click-clack....

1. in the water the sound will be minimized
2. the sound is semi prototypical
3. the slow speed control is such many real steamer modelers only wish for 

The more you watch videos of real paddlers, the more you see a degree of wheel run out. Remember when your Strongbow is in the water the only part of the wheel you see is that 25mm between the water and the bottom of the sponson

The bearing sleeves & caps you have manufactured are totally fit for purpose   

Derek

Hi Derek,

The problem with the water splash is that the bearings are inside the paddlebox. And there is an open space in the deck where the shaft crosses the deck. It can be seen some posts back where I show the "inner" bulwarks. Last picture of Post #92.
This open space has to be covered because too much water would get into the hull there.
I'm not really concerned about water getting through the bearings, even though at this time I have not installed any O-ring seal or similar.
Could be added later if necessary.

And yes: electric has an advantage regarding low speed, but steam is the real thing.

Jurgen

... where the rain water gets in.

To solve the splash issue I came up with this little add-on.
It should cover the part behind the bearing (and the bearing too). Does it work? We'll see.
At this point the positive aspect is that the wheel still turns freely and the housing can be removed and reinserted with no problem.

Now the slipway will be closed for 3 weeks due to 

Jurgen

 

Yes, Jurgen, this should be the right way to solve the splash of the paddlewheels.

Thomas

Beautiful work!

Hello everyone, I am back home and resumed work on the ship (yeah the other work too ...)

Thanks kno3.

Didn't do much. Just the pulleys for the steering cables.
Mass production of pulleys. The not-centered wire is there only to catch the cut-off piece. They tend to jump off the lathe and vanish.

Coming along beautifully! Have seen the plans for this one online before so keen to see what they translate to!

Looks verygood, Jurgen!

Thanks MrP and Thomas. I hope my translation renders OK.

Been busy the weekend and made the cable rudder drive. The servo tray is not yet fixed. I realized that if I install the servo tray permanently I will not have access to the rear servo fastening screws. Since I am not a friend of permanent installations I will have to find a solution here. Maybe some sort of guides that permit sliding the tray & servo forward for maintenance.

Also made the wheelhouse. Not fixed yet either. I want to leave the roof removable to have access to the interior in case I decide to add some interior details. Need to make some parts for that.
Last picture is the high tech bending device for the wheelhouse front. Wetted and left there overnight it kept the radius.
Actually I had to cut the front twice. I cut the first piece without considering the wood grain. The grain was horizontal and the part was impossible to bend. Second one with the grain direction vertical bent quite easy.
In fact the rear and laterals also have the grain horizontally. Left it that way and I hope it won't show too much after staining the wood.

Jurgen