Quote from: Talisman on June 26, 2009, 04:58:17 AM
The paddle wheels are bad luck Eddy i think an incident like that would kill my motivation so well done you for keeping going.

It certainly did put a dent in my motivation Kim, and to be honest I'm not looking forward to redoing the paddlewheels... I know the kit I've ordered from Barry will require some modification, but I'll only know what when it arrives, and then there's the long winded procedure to refit them to the model, which is difficult with everything hidden under the paddleboxes

QuoteI'm a great believer in things happen for a reason but cant see why on this occasion she was looking good on the water!
Regards
Kim

There was a similar accident when I built the first SWW for Andrew Gray at Edinburgh MBC - My wife took a seizure and fell on that one!

It's just little things that are sent to try us..... At least that's what my mother always used to say!

Regards
Eddy

Eddy,

I think a higher power is trying to tell you that you should engineer the paddlewheels so that they are easily replacable so that when you are out on the water and catch a snag, a crushed paddlewheel won't be the end of your day.

Randy

Okay guys, I'm after some help and advice..... I rather fancy the idea of working ramps which I can lower when I come alongside, but I don't really have any idea how to do it!

Attached is a photo of the model I built for Andrew Gray to give you an idea of what things look like - Bear in mind that the decks overhang the hull by a long way, so the hull is only a shade larger in beam than the turntable in the picture.... The deck is also only about 1.5" above the water on my model, so running rods or cables under the deck and into the hull would almost certainly cause a leak!

So, how to do it? Has anyone got any ideas? A few drawings to explain it would be very welcome!

Regards
Eddy

Hi PD's.....just a few thoughts from OZ Eddy

1) consider the vehicular ramp having the normal lower 90 to 120 degree pivot requirement
2) add a 90 degree plastic bevel gear set
3) add one of those TAMIYA geared motors & a connecting drive shaft &   ... I am sure the one package provides ratios like 10:1, 100:1...to 1000:1

This is one application where we would throw scale out the window ....if the ramp took 30 seconds to lower ....then   would look good...so dependent on the TAMIYA speed reducer ratio selected ....lowering is not an issue...as the ramp when striking terrafirma....would simply place moment of the SWW in the water

I have not addressed the raising of the ramp & the mechanical STOP limitations or considerations etc....

In the attachment SWW1 ...I have shown the drive shaft & the TAMIYA motor axis as negative 15 degrees...this is to simply get it away from deck level & you could hide the bevel gear set in a deck box

You could also consider motorising the carousel,....so that when the ramp is lowered/raised....the car carousel rotates 90 degrees...two teflon/nylon rings as near the major diameter would make simple bearing elements ..... Derek....

Hi PD's....& just  ....Eddy...some posts back you mentioned 14 pounds of plumbonium [Pb] as a requirement ...& so deck level vehicle weight would not be an issue

1) consider adding a layer of lead in the sandwich construction of each ramp.....the added mass will tend to make the raising & lowering of the ramp 'smoother'
2) the torque from one of those TAMIYA geared motors will be VERY high.  ...so rather than eye sight or mechanical limit switches to electrical shutdown...the new owner of ACTion Electronics FLJ?......... may have a simple current limiting device  ....Derek

Thanks Derek, I'll give your ideas some thought and see what (if anything) I can come up with...  it may be a case of the time and expense involved in getting it to work may not be worth it for the few times it will be used?

Anyway, in the meantime, I've been placing the vehicles I have on deck to see where they will be located - I can't just have them rolling around the deck! So now is the time to fasten them down before the deck is finally fitted to the model.

Eddy

Great news.....

The paddlewheels I ordered from Barry in Oz arrived today, and although I've only had a chance to look at them very briefly, it appears that they will fit the SWW with only very minor modifications

My sincere thanks to Barry for his superb service!

After seeing the wheels in the flesh for the first time, I can honestly say that this will not be my last order, and I'd have no hesitation in recommending them to anyone!

Regards
Eddy

After a lot of swearing and cursing, I've eventually got the broken paddlewheels removed from the SWW.... The new ones are almost complete, so hopefully I should be back on track in a day or so...

Here's a quick photo of the damaged wheels....

Eddy

Yes PD's....Eddy's new wheel set will look a little more authentic too by way of the hub area ....I am not sure about the previous BLACK wheels Eddy........how about RED oxide primer  ......... Derek

I'll go along with that. It'll make em stand out 

I would varnish them as well to protect them from all that heavy 'spinning'

cheers

ken

Hi Eddy,

there is no BMW and also no Ford Transit

Okay guys, red oxide it will be for the next set of wheels......

The Transit didn't exist until 1965 Hans, and thats the year the ship went out of service, so no Transit.... And a BMW??? We'd just finished bombing the hell out of each other during the war, so I can't see a huge demand for BMW's at that time!

Eddy

Hi Eddy, you could always have a BMW 20002 Short Wheel Base 2 Door Saloon introduced in 1966 

cheers

Jim

Hi Eddy,

what about a BMW Isetta???

The problem is finding suitable models at 1:32 scale Hans...... Plenty of sports cars and American cars/trucks, but very little else

Eddy