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Saito Delta Queen Build

Started by ir3, February 04, 2011, 08:45:33 AM

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ir3

Well PDR's,

I have gone around in circles so many times I am getting very dizzy. Dizzy enough to get back on the Saito Delta Queen. I realize the thread has been shared which is great. I am not going to add too much more to the conversation but there are two things I am going to do and could use some feedback. First, I an going to gear down the drive from the Y2DR to the drivers. From the videos I have seen the Queen is moving on the water like a speed boat. This is basically a very docile slow moving boat and so slowing down the paddle wheel is the thing to do. Secondly, I am going to raise the float count from 6 to 12 and make them a bit narrower to look a little more to scale. Hopefully, adding the floats will not impede the traction of the paddle wheel in the water. I have no experience in doing this.

Any feedback would be appreciated and maybe Kurlander can add some more of his build.

Until next time,

IR3

kno3

Regarding gearing down, this will make your engine spin faster and use up more steam. You'd only want to do this if the engine is too small to power the paddlewheels directly, which isn't the case.
Why can't you simply reduce the steam to the cylinders so the engine rotates slow enough?

ir3

Thanks for the reply. I only saw one video of the Saito Delta Queen on the water and it appeared that it was moving like a speedboat.  So my concern was that I wouldn't be able to turn the paddle wheel slow enough to give it a reasonable scale speed. Can I run the T2DR slow enough? I really have no running experience with the T2DR as of yet. I will try it directly coupled as you suggest.

derekwarner_decoy

Hi PD's & welcome back Iran :coffee

Without going back into the thread archives, remember scale....& if the paddle structure is built to scale [diameter, no of blades, width of blades, depth of immersion etc] then scale speed will be applicable

The basic formula is [the cube root of scale multiplied by the actual RPM = scale RPM requirement]

As kno3 suggests, the Saito Y2DR is capable of a direct drive, or in your case :hammer...a 1:1 drive ratio.......I must go back & understand what steam regulator you have available or fitted, as a quality component here will help provide slow and well controlled paddle speed

Keep us posted ......... Derek  :beer
Derek Warner

Honorary Secretary [Retired]
Illawarra Live Steamers Co-op
Australia
www.ils.org.au

kno3

My Saito T2DR engines are able to turn dead slow, so I assume all do. As Derek says, you need a good steam valve that can finely regulate the steam to the engine.

ir3

Thanks for the comments, much appreciated The trick is finding a good steam valve. Kramer has a very nice one as well as Eskadar. There is also one on eBay which I cant think of the seller at the moment. I have both the one from eBay and Kramer. The one from Kramer is a bit pricey but not being a machinist so one must do ones best. It appears to be very well made just as his steam engines.

I am currently installing the Y2DR in the hull and will post when I have most of the installation complete. BTW, I sold the first DQ and this is another kit I managed to acquire in the last several months.

Until next time,

Iran

derekwarner_decoy

ir3...the steam control valve marketed by Kramer is actually manufactured by ANTON [French]..so should function well

Derek
Derek Warner

Honorary Secretary [Retired]
Illawarra Live Steamers Co-op
Australia
www.ils.org.au

andy

I use these ANTON Fittigns, they are very fine with a good precision.

Andy

kurlander

ir3
I am answering your email here for there might be others  who might be given insight.
I do not have the Saito but am still building it 1/48 scratch.
I also tried cables for the rudders and ran into trouble so I went to wire. The Delta Queen uses 1 cable that comes out of one side of the hull and under the paddle wheel axle then goes up above deck and behind the wheel makes 90 degree turn towards the rudder where it is attached to both rudders and then at the other side of the wheel goes back under the axle and into the hull.
I finally did the same thing but used wire that controls model airplanes.
The first photo shows the cable and the second shows my wire setup .
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well-preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside thoroughly used up, totally worn out.

ir3

Kurlander, thanks for the post. A very solid installation. Too bad Saito didn't take a similar approach. I am hoping that someone has seen the rudder connections for the aft pair or they know of a drawing. I can't believe that Saito left this part of the build out of the assembly manual. There is no drawing in the DQ manual or the Victoria manual. I am going to move on to the installation of the steam plant and hopefully something will show up about the rudder connections.

Until next time,

IR3

kurlander

I was thinking after your request, I realized That I had a photograph of a finished what I believe is the Saito Delta Queen. The lobby of the Queen had two different models in plexiglass mounts. One was the Hartman model and the other was yours.
Enclosed are three photos two of the Saito one an enlargement of the rudder.  I hope this helps?
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well-preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside thoroughly used up, totally worn out.

kurlander

Oops I missed one
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well-preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside thoroughly used up, totally worn out.

ir3

Thanks for the pictures. Hooking up the rudder cables at the rudders was pretty straight forward. Unfortunately, the internal hookup at the rudder tillers is not obvious. Saito does not have a drawing of this part of the assembly which just happens to be pretty critical. I thought many years ago I did see a picture of the installation but exhaustive searches showed nothing. The picture shows the springs connected to the rudder cables. These are probably not installed properly and I think they should be stretched more. Right now there is a lot of backlash before the aft rudders start to move. I think I will remove the springs and make the connection direct by swagging the cables directly to the tiller arms. Any slack can be taken up by adjusting the clevises at the rudders.


proflooney

always loved this boat and similars and having 4 riverboat casinos in my area one day I will find a set of plans and build one of these. love the thread thanks for posting your work

kurlander

After a delay I am back to building the boat.
Had family medical problems and after mother in law died I had promised the wife we would move to southern Arizona 1200 miles as the crow flies. Downsized from a two and half story house with basement to a one story house.
Ever try shipping a 6 foot boat? It arrive almost perfect. Driver must have missed the road a few times.
My first project after moving in was to find the hobby stores and the closest pond. Nothing within 25 miles one way in this desert. Am doing some online shopping.
My first project was to see how she floats so I built me my test tub in the back yard. Photo attached.  Wood frame and 3 mill plastic stapled inside.
My daughter said that it will attract all the scorpions in the hood when they smell the water.
I filled it with water and put the boat in. I then observed that the bow thruster was not under water. I moved the battery forward and all was fine. The problem now is to move the steam generator elsewhere.

Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well-preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside thoroughly used up, totally worn out.

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