Not able to do any building today but i did manage to get a bit of research done this eve. I can't figure out if there were windows at the stern or not. After a few hours of trawling the net still no answer. Not a waste of time i have come across some great pictures and a site that is new to me.
I did come across some great pics which might be of interest to Eddy and Ken links bellow

Columba

http://special.st-andrews.ac.uk/saspecial/index.php?a=subjects&s=zoom&key=SYToyOntpOjA7aToyNTU3O2k6MTtzOjI1OiJDb2xsZWN0aW9uIC0gU21pdGgsIFIgTiBXIjt9&pg=246

Columba paddle wheels

http://special.st-andrews.ac.uk/saspecial/index.php?a=subjects&s=zoom&key=SYToyOntpOjA7aToxNzc5O2k6MTtzOjIyOiJzdGVhbSB2ZXNzZWxzIC0gcGFkZGxlIjt9&pg=15

Queen Margaret
http://special.st-andrews.ac.uk/saspecial/index.php?a=subjects&s=zoom&key=SYToyOntpOjA7aToxNzcwO2k6MTtzOjc6ImZlcnJpZXMiO30=&pg=5

Robert Bruce
http://special.st-andrews.ac.uk/saspecial/index.php?a=subjects&s=zoom&key=SYToyOntpOjA7aToxNzcwO2k6MTtzOjc6ImZlcnJpZXMiO30=&pg=24


great site and i still have loads to look at but my eyes are going a bit square now....

Well PD's.....I thought that I had seeeeen all ....but never a cast resilient motor mounting like this actually encasing the lower section of the motor..... ....brilliant  ...but are there sufficient "obstacle's" attached to the motor casing to lock into the silicone material?.........do you have a method of attachment [feet pre-cast into the underside?] 

Seeing the toothed belt pinion on the motor.......will this sit athwart ships & simply drive the paddle shaft via a reduction?

Tell us more..........Derek

Thank you for the pictures, Talisman. Some detail there that will be helpful indeed.

Have not got around to starting her yet, but building up all the information I can

Cheers

Ken

Quote from: derekwarner_decoy on April 30, 2009, 01:01:19 PM

Tell us more..........Derek

Derek as soon as i know what the plan is i will let you know 

OK PD's......I must  ...your build time Talisman................as my build of Decoy is approx 9 year old....... ........Derek

Ok Derek i have an answer.
No flash engineering i'm affraid just a simple solution which does seem to work .

I gave in and bought a Large pulley and new belt and i'm really happy with the results. Very queit, bags of torque and a really nice rpm.


Details

Base - Plywood
moulding - Silicone
Sides -Ply
Clamps - make your own Jubilee clip kit.

Simples !!

A very neat way of mounting the motor Kim.... Can I ask where you got the new pulley and belt? And do the teeth match with the original pulley on the motor?

Regards
Eddy

Hi Eddy,
Had the motor running today and it is perfect for the job


Pulleys and belts from this company.


http://www.motionco.co.uk

Belts are - 3 mm HTD pitch and teeth fit perfectly. I had to buy a belt as the width of the original belt is to wide.

Pulleys need drilled and tapped to secure
hope that helps
Kim

Edit they have a calculator which works out the distances between the shaft centres which is handy:)

Ok  time again and a couple of questions for you all


First is regarding the paddle wheels -

i was going to have the paddles laser cut from brass and Aluminium however this is proving difficult and expensive so new thinking is -

Rims laser cut from 1.5mm Aluminium cost £8.50 each + vat + Postage

Banjo wheel laser cut from 1.5 mm brass. cost 4.50 + vat + postage


floats and brackets form 0.8mm brass £189.00    + vat + postage

A cheaper option for the floats and brackets might be to have them cut from 1mm printed circuit board material.

My worry is will they be strong enough to cope with jammed twigs etc?? any thoughts??

Working tomorrow, Monday before i can do much about this part of the build and would really appreciate any imput even if it is to say i'm lazy and should just get on and build the things

My other question is

is drawn steel ( being used for the shafts in pics above) resist rust or should i hunt down a length of silver steel?

Thanks in advance
Kim

Why have all the floats laser cut Kim? They are simple enough to make with only a bandsaw surely?

Personally I'd use brass rod or silver steel for the axle - I once made a paddler with a mild steel axle and it rusted solid when it was stored for 3 months without being used!

Eddy

I think I will probably cut the floats myself Eddy i just fancy the accuracy of laser cut wheels but at the price i have been quoted the attraction is waring off.

Will probably still go for laser cut rims, banjo wheels and brackets as my level of skill & accuracy isn't going to make as nice a job. Can't go to far wrong with the floats i guess ... 

Thanks for the info on the steel i almost knew at £3.00 a meter from B&Q  it was not the right stuff.

Quote from: Talisman on May 01, 2009, 03:28:48 AM

Details

Base - Plywood
moulding - Silicone
Sides -Ply
Clamps - make your own Jubilee clip kit.

Simples !!

Hi Talisman

With reference to your Jubilee clip. Why didn't I think of that. My thoughts with writing were that I have large steel springs around my motor and found the 'metal on metal' contact transmitted the vibration noise to the hull. I fitted a rubber block underneath the springs and she went much quieter.   Just a thought.

Also you are worried about catching twigs in the blades and stalling something. On mine I have secured the large (driven) wheel with a copper pin through the shaft. On a stall I'm hoping it will shear and prevent damage to the paddles. I have used a brass shaft going through 'Oilite bearings' so , hopefully won't be bothered with rust.

Hope this helps

ken

Progress report from the Dust Creation and Mistakes Department....

Ken thanks for your thoughts on noise reduction .. fortunately the 1kg (approx) or silicone rubber absorbs any vibration. The motor is a 12 pole with bearings at either end so noise from the motor really isn't a problem. The pulleys if set to run square give of no noise. Infact when i had it all loosely assembled the loudest thing was the shaft turning in the brass bushes. You can imagine I'm well chuffed



Latest work has been the superstructures. For such a simple arrangement it has taken me a fair while to get them to their present state.
Bridge still requires 'wings', Aft structure ( longer of the two) requires roof box & edging on the roof. Top of the aft cabin has been painted to look like canvas which I'm guessing was used to waterproof the roof. If anyone knows different please let me know.

Many thanks
Kim

It's all progressing nicely Kim..... I can see that the race is on!

I don't even have any motors for the SWW, and because of my daughters birthday today and club day tomorrow, that's two days lost for my build

I'm glad your happy with the motor - Sadly I cannot use two of those as they are too big to fit below the deck on my very shallow hull, so I'm hoping I can pick up something at the Harrogate model engineering show this weekend.

Regards
Eddy