Hi PDs!

I have now finished planking the hull and have added the bow and stern blocks and sanded them roughly to shape. I spent today marking the areas on the hull that are a little high or low and have marked these in preparation for the first thin layer of body filler and the initial sand. When I'm satisfied that the hull has no 'lumps and bumps' I shall give the whole thing a thin veneer of filler and sand back almost to the wood.

This is only the hull up to the waterway (deck)  - so there's a way to go yet!

All the best

Stuart

When should we put in our orders for a fibreglass hull Stuart? We wouldn't want to wait until it was at a stage where taking a mould would be difficult! 

It's looking absolutely fantastic, can't wait to see the next stage....

Regards
Eddy

Hi PDs

I'm sorely tempted to take a mould of it Eddy - it would make an ideal blockade runner hull.

Any way, progress so far. I'm sorry if you're all getting sick of the sight of the hull! but it IS a long job. I have now completed the initial coat and sand and have achieved the contours I wanted. Let me explain my method on this. I know I have built the hull as a plank on frame and Eddy commented how quickly it came together. This is because I am only using the plank on frame hull as a base for the car body filler. If I was making a hull where the planks were visible (either as varnished wood or under paint) then I would take MUCH more time because there would be no room for error in the alignment or marrying of the planks. With this hull I don't need to worry about that.

The car body filler I am using (I prefer to call it a 'coating' rather than a filler) is an American brand called Er-Lac. It is readily available here and CHEAP - probably due to the driving habits of the indiginous population! It is very fine, incredibly easy to sand and has about a 20 minute useful life after the catalyst is added before it becomes unworkable. I have shown the hull pre-sanded and sanded. At this stage I have marked in pencil all the pin holes and void areas. There are a lot of them - but most are very small.
This is still a very quick way to build a large hull - even with all the sanding.

More soon!

All the best

Stuart

I'm sorely tempted to take a mould of Eddy   ...I wouldn't Stuart ...it would 'BRAKE' 

So what say you all PD's....should we all throw a few BOB in & buy a vacuum cleaner for the Greek workshop?........... ....Derek

Looking really good, the filling/sanding stage reminded me of doing the same on my hull - until I saw the picture with the frame standing on end, I hadn't realised how long it was 

It has certainly come out excellent, Stuart. I should like to use this method myself  as it's a smashing tutorial.   Once painted it should look as smooth as fibre glass without the hassle.   

I saw a picture on the 'other site', of you holding it in your arms and realised the size of this hull. It puts it all into perspective. What is the weight so far please.

Merry Christmas

Ken

Hi Ken!

The weight so far is only 4.5 kilos - so I should be able to ballast it down really low and keep the centre of gravity as far down as possible.

I've been doing the detail fill and sand today and hope to start on the portholes and plating soon.

All the best

Stuart

Hi PDs

I needed a break from all that sanding! Also It's at this stage, before I fit the bulwarks that I had to decide on how to do the portholes and plating.

The first stage was to make a stand for the hull so that I can work on it securely and to mark off the porthole centre line on the hull. I really have to get these in before I do any more work as it will involve turning and moving the hull - knowing me if I fit the bulwarks now, I'll break something!

I like the casting resin method (Kim?) BUT I can't get it here and it is a 'forbidden substance' for shipping - so I came up with another method.

I have some 1/4 inch perspex sheet. I cut this into 20mm wide strips and then using the guide on my saw set to 30 degrees I sliced it into equilateral triangles which could be held securely in the lathe chuck.  I set the tool to the inside diameter of some 9mm brass tube (the scale diameter of the portholes) and faced off the perspex to leave a boss protruding on the triangle 2mm proud. I then sliced the brass tube into 2mm rings. The ring will be fitted into holes drilled in the hull and the perspex porthole inserted from behind. The 'ears' on the perspex will provide enough glueing area to fix them with epoxy.

Connaught has 60 portholes - and I hate every one of them!!!!!

All the best

Stuart

What a neat solution Stuart, apart from the fact that I don't have a lathe, wouldn't know how to use it if I did, and would lose the will to live making 60 of them - Other than those few minor issues I like the method

The bright side is that making 60 portholes is a damned sight easier than making 60 windows!!

Eddy

Thanks Eddy!
I have to say that much as I appreciate the popularity of all those square windowed steamers, the thought of actually building one fills me with dread! I take my hat off to those who manage it.

All the best

Stuart

That's a great solution to how to make portholes! An article in model boats suggested using clear perspex rod fitted into thinwall brass tube (and cut into short lengths) as a way to glaze them, they also turned out pretty good

Hi PDs!

I completed the final sand and prime - there are still a few tiny imperfections which I will deal with when I add the plating detail.

Having produced all the portholes I then had to drill the holes for them. Incidently Mick - I did consider slicing lengths of perspex rod, but the problem is if you want them transparent you have to polish both ends of every slice. The method I used at least gives you two clear faces.

I drilled 60 X 8mm holes into the hull at the positions required. The hull planking is thin, and splits easily so I didn't want to dill a 10mm hole straight off. I then tapered a piece of 10mm dowel and superglued some silicon carbide paper in a roll orientated so that the overlap was in the direction of rotation, and used this as a sort of tapered reamer in my NEW battery drill! to open up the holes to the correct diameter. The 'reamer' was good for about 15 holes before the paper wore out and the heat generated destroyed the superglue. But at least that made it easy to glue a new piece in place!


I have decided to complete the front third of the hull before I move on - so I have fitted the upper bow blocks and the bulwarks which are of 0.8mm ply. The bulwarks rise from the usual height up to the fordeck. The turtledeck base therefore , does not sit level, but rises to the foredeck whilst its top is parallel with the keel. I spent ages poring over the drawings before I realised. I am going to make the whole turtledeck removable complete with mast, rigging and all. This is so that I don't have to de-rig and re-rig every time I want to get inside the front half of the model.

A few photos as usual.

All the best

Stuart

Hi PDs!

Today I sanded the bow blocks and edged the foredeck in preparation for the planking. I also started work on the Turtle Deck. I built a frame of 3mm ply and mounted the formers to give the curve on top. I shall plank it tomorrow. I seem to have spent most of the day working out 'how to' rather than 'doing it'!

The front of the Turtle Deck will be located by a ply plate with two dowels and the whole deck will be held in place by a screw hidden under the rear grating.

I thought I'd post this while the glue sets!

All the best

Stuart

Hi Stuart,

My wife and I envy your professional building skills, but we really envy your beautiful, warm location. We are sitting here cold awaiting warmer weather.

Just read your thread...amazing job to this point, and that's putting it lightly. Keep up the detailed photos of this horded skill.

Thanks for sharing,

Philip & the Mrs.

Thanks Phillip!

In exchange for modelling materials we do a mean bed and breakfast!

Al the best

Stuart