Hullo

Thomas.....I like the effect you have with the paddle box radial spoke sections.......are they individually tapered? and is it a gold/drown wash you have over the white to make them lifelike?

Derek

Hi Derek,

yes, absolutely correct. The radial spokes are sawed and the gold color over the white ground is washed partly away. Today I `ll make the removable upper deck of aluminium with obechi planking.

 

Made the upper deck yesterday.

Some more work is done, in particular skylights and both marked funnels with pipework and steam whistle. For the funnels I used aluminium tubes of 40 mm diameter. The whole model, as it is now, only has a weight of 5,8 kg - that gives much clearance for boiler, engine and R/C. There are many details, which must be made - masts with rigging, boats with davits and of course the geared paddlewheels. I don`t have exact plans of superstructure, only the photos of museum models, the exact plan of predecessor "Hope", which hull is equally and a rought plan of deck..

It's really starting to look the part now - I'm well impressed, magnificent work!

Regards
Eddy

Thanks Eddy!

You have achieved much in a very short time. She looks great!

Work goes on. The railing now is finished, but I`m unsecure of coloring it - the pictures of the museum models shows a dark colored railing, may be an anthracite, black or dark grey tone. As far I know, in 19. century a nearly black anthracite color for metal parts was common. Or would it be better, not painting the brass?

Thomas

 

Thanks, Damian. Work in progress. I will paint the railing black. The masts of course will be conical pointed and painted ochre. I`m looking for a suitable steam engine. The Regner 12/36 would be good, but it`s a little bit expensive...

As Thomas says......."The Regner 12/36 would be good, but it`s a little bit expensive..." ....

.....but it would be rather  beautiful Thomas, even if hidden inside 

PS...the kiss is for the engine....not you 

Derek

This week in german ebay a Regner 12/36 engine was advertised not very far from our domicile. I bought. It must be a very old 12/36, may be from the 1980-tis. Some parts I renewed last days with my little stock of spare parts, she is now running rather well. The pictures shows the approximate position in the model.
The 4 lifeboats I made from Mantua kits with tiny plank on frame construction. There is still much to do with the C. L. - masts and rigging, some details and of course the geared paddlewheels with 165 mm diameter from aluminium. Because of the lockdown the progress of the model was rather fast. Railings were painted black - probably this is the close to the original.
Now the bike saison starts - there is also some work with my old Kawasaki Drifter...

Thomas

Hullo Thomas....you are truely lucky to find a for sale Regner 12x36 engine........did you actually find two, or did you have a second in your spares box? 

I have spent some time re-reading your earlier twin 12 x 36 engines steam plant [standard vertical exhausts], but did not find many references to condensate issues.......reading on Youtube, about single 12 x 36 engines and a popular problem thread is condensate & water hammer & lock up when cold

My Saito Y2-DR also suffers from cold engine & condensate, so without any cylinder drain valves, I have purchased 2 x 25 square 5 volt pillow fans & plan to pump warming up boiler water through a small 5/32" tube manifold type radiator above the fans & hope to transfer some heat into the cylinders [after the lagging is removed].......[the fit is near prefect ...just held on here with double sided tape for a dummy view]

Mounted under the cylinders, they are unobtrusive as just black bocks ..with tubes to be protruding

I plan to use the existing boiler feed piston pump via a 4 way valve [both Microcosm] for the heatup function, then switch the valving over to boiler feed as required ..all dreams....

Sorry to hog your excellent build 

Derek

Hi Derek,

this 12/36 already were two engine units. At first test run the engine was running forward in a quite good manner, but didn`t reverse. After some time with adjusting the piston valves, the engine is running forward with 0,4 bar pressure and backward with 0,5 bar.
Start of the cold engine is not easy, one must drive some times forward and reverse, the pressure should be not less than 1,5 bar. Your solution with the pillow fans sounds good, but is it reliable? I presume, the best possibility to avoid condensing steam in the cylinders, is superheated steam. A copper or steel steamtube throught the flametube or just leaded above the burner should be heat the steam to 180 - 200°C and may avoide starting condensation - I will realize this at the C. L.

Thomas