Finishing products

[Bert Learmonth]

I see information and suggestions on finishing. I would like to share some
of my experiences. I have done a lot of furniture finishing and refinishing
so I have gone through many types of products especially the clear type.
Several years back a water based clear coat came out which, in my opinion is
a very good product. If some of you have used this type you will know why.
It dries fast which helps the dust problem and there is no odor. The product
I have is Varathane a water born Diamond Clear Finish for wood. The reason I
m mentioning this is I find it useful for any clear coating on models or any
small project. Best of all it never goes hard when there is any left. This
finish is not for exterior jobs but I wouldn't class models as exterior.
In painting my models I like to use latex paints, easy to mix colors, dry
fast with no odor. I use semi-gloss which I think looks like the painting on
the originals.
Now to get to that mirror type finish this last spring I found a good
product, it is a brushing lacquer I like to use it by airbrush on the small
projects. This stuff eliminates the dust problem as it is dry in 30 min. You
can build up a mirror finish in one day light sanding between coats then if
you want that deep shine I use automotive buffing compound and with flat
surfaces a firm flat block is a must, I like the suggestion of an eraser.
Also I have put together another hull of which I am making a picture record
of the B&B construction. I will put it in the files when complete. Another
thing I'm seriously thinking of building a two cylinder oscillating steam
engine with a servo control. This has been a long time ambition of mine.
Best regards Bert.

[mgbgtgrimm]

Bert you didn't mention what the brushing lacquer
product was. Greg & Grimm

[Bert Learmonth]

Hi again
Special for Greg & Grim. Sorry I forgot to put in the product name, it is
DEFT Clear Wood Finish brushing Lacquer. The thinning is lacquer thinner,
which requires good ventilation. I found it in the Lee Valley Tools
catalogue in Ottawa Ont. I used to use an automobile acrilac sealer but that
product was discontinued and any automotive clears are now two part mix. I'm
using it on turned pens and small cases but some time I'll get to a fancy
boat job. By the way this finish comes in Satin, Semi-gloss, and Gloss. I'm
sure hoping this source doesn't disappear.
Looking at the pictures of the Great Eastern I can see why serious modelers
want to work on this ship.
Regards and happy modeling, Bert

[Bert Learmonth]

Hi all.
David, you have come up with a very good question. Just when I thought I had
all the answers they changed the questions.
I can really relate to this problem. With the scale of 1:48 the water line
doesn't show too bad and with these lake boat hulls it isn't too critical.
But the smaller the scale it gets much more noticeable, like water it won't
scale down and the line could be very thick in reality. The only suggestion
I have is to mark the line and then with a steady hand and a good lettering
brush paint to the line. I have used masking tape as the line and carefully
paint to it but not over it, if you happen to wiggle a bit you wont get a
bump on the line. Of course a person could make the model part at the water
line paint below and above then put them back together, not the best idea.
After assembling my first two ships and painting them after, I had to find a
better way. Now I make and fit all decks and superstructure then paint the
parts and reassemble eliminating cutting any painting lines. Painting is a
very important part of modeling, and a real challenge for that desired look.
Happy modeling, Bert.