New Build log

[Corrado]

Hello Gentlemen,
I have decided to show my build of a Paddle Steamer.
It is based on a free plan of Soleil D'Or screw boat....with a difference.   I have chosen this plan because 1) It was free and 2) It's a very stable hull.
It is fairly large at 1200 mm in length..but this should give me lots of room to fit a steam plant. So here we go.....will take many months.
I already made the fibreglass female mould ..so let's take it from there.
Sorry for the image size...how do you resize?
Aahh found out how to resize images



 

[Paddlemex]

That's a nice mould for the hull Corrado.
Why don't you show some pictures of how you made the plug and the mould.

Jurgen

[DamienG]

I fully agree I'd love to see how the Hull mould was achieved.

DamienG.

[Corrado]

Ok..I'll try to resize the images.
I have'nt got images of the original plug/mould process.
This is not the same plug...but  just showing my method.
You can use anything for the plug....but I still prefer the planking method followed by a good 2 pack primer.

[Paddlemex]

Thanks Corrado,

You have a nice shop!!!

Jurgen

[Corrado]

This is the Boiler I will be using.....it's 8" x 4" and should provide enough steam for the engine.
It has 7 cross tubes and the Aluminium base can be used as a heat sink for the gas tank.

[Corrado]

The engine is over sized for the purpose at 9/16" bore x 1" stroke but when I built it ..there was no intent of fitting it to a paddle steamer.
I already had it...so why not utilize it!
Ok...on with the Paddle wheels.
These will be made from 1/16" Aluminium sheet.
They have already been drawn up on Autocad.

[derekwarner_decoy]

Welcome Corrado   .......this is indeed a superb looking engine [& boiler]

A few questions if I may ask

1. are the engine cylinders & valve housings stainless steel?
2. is it a generic plan, or your own?
3. knurled gland nuts are near unique, can you get thumb & forefinger in to adjust the piston rod glands?
4. have you completed weight checks for all of the steam plant? [with water & gas]
5. have you completed corresponding hull displacement  checks to confirm plant paddle axis and freeboard of hull?

From the imperial dimensions you quote [9/16" x 1"] and the palm or your hand, I am guessing the crankshaft to be 1/4" diameter

The long stroke will assist with slow speed work, which is desired for paddle work 

So many questions, but what fun......looking forward you seeing your build continue

Derek

[Corrado]

Hi Derek,
The engine cylinders and housings are cast iron with the pistons being bronze.
The engine is a twin version of Elmers no. 33 Mill Engine (free plan)  with some modifications including the knurled gland nuts for exactly the reason you mentioned.
I'm just starting to do the displacement trials to see where the waterline will be and hence set the paddle wheels.
The following images show how I made the Paddle Wheels.
 I see you are in NSW....I'm in WA. We are having one of the hottest summers on record over here. Wish it would rain!

[derekwarner_decoy]

I thought I recognised a Drawing in one of your earlier images - Edgar Westbury?  M9 - Sheet 2 for the wheels...& an excellent job on them too  .....90 something % of his builds appear to have simplified & skipped the dished outer wheel

We also see a chain pinion wheel on the paddle shaft, which looks very similar in size for my long, ever-enduring build......may I ask what chain reduction ratio you have chosen?

The only real suggestion I could make, is to mount the complete steam plant on one baseboard frame......

It will save endless issues with tubing work  , and provide an ease in lifting the complete plant in & out during the build, and later for any major maintenance work that may arise

Derek

[Corrado]

Yes...your right about the drawing...just had to modify it a bit. I've only just learnt Autocad so it was very pleasing to get the laser cut parts....saved a heck of drilling filing etc.
and they are all exactly the same.
I got the sprockets and mini chain through Tsubaki  Australia and it will be a 1:3 reduction in shaft speed...all hit and miss to me as this is my first Paddler.
Beautiful engineering in your photo by the way!

[derekwarner_decoy]

As you read our archives, paddle axis speed is difficult to scale down due to water being water, so academic scale reductions here are just that

So for model paddlers, paddle shaft speed around 100 RPM is considered a good starting point....+/- 50 %  to keep up your sleeve

Battery driven craft have the advantage of rather inexpensive digital speed controls so their task is pretty straight forward

Steam driven craft apart from the steam regulator have the facility where we can resort if necessary to alter the individual  float surface area and can be changed out to fine-tune a reasonable speed range

I am guessing your wet steam plant complete with wheels will be in the order of 7 kg??

My build has been an exhausting 20 years, and with little machinery, has been a 'cheque book' amalgum or multinational group of Japanese, German, Chinese, Scottish, American & a lot of Australian blood & tears & an approx 4:1 chain reduction

Some of our early OZ paddlers at the turn of the earlier Century used 4" pitch roller chain drives...so we can be comfortable in our scale sizing

Somewhere down the build path, you may want or need to consider the need for Boiler Certification........if you need some help there, just give me a yell......I am not an AALS Boiler Inspector, but complete the registration process for all boiler work for our Illawarra Live Steamers & St George Model Boat Club in Sydney   
 

[Corrado]

Hi Derek,
Wow 20 year build...that's perseverance  for you!
Can you enlighten me how the feathering paddles work.    The paddles are on a unfixed cam rotating around the shaft axis....how do you keep the cam in the same position ahead of the axis in effect to keep the lower paddles vertical.  Surely the water resistance will just push the cam position around!

[derekwarner_decoy]

The feathering wheel mechanism keeps the blade entering the water progressively at the greatest vertical attitude, until at 6:00 o'clock, when that blade is in the true vertical plane

The reverse applies to the individual paddle blade progressively rotating upwards from that 6:00 o'clock position and so maintaining the greatest possible vertical orientation due to the mechanism

Each blade is independently locked within the rotating mechanism, so cannot deflect against water pressure

There are plenty discussion points in our archives.....good reading....must also be youtube Videos of the same

Could you not model a 3d rotation of the assembly in Autocad?......[I am sure there is an example on the Net]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RgC7iQyY4k0

I will dig out the Westbury Drawings & see if it offers any explanation over & above the individual drawing elements

I well know those little AMBSC orange cards, so will not say more......[but you would be surprised the number of people who have built a boiler, then turn a blind eye and become indignant about boiler testing, in that it is their boiler and no-one else  need to be involved ].....so I always broach the subject very tactfully....

[Corrado]

Hi Derek,
The boiler has been tested & certified by three qualified boiler inspectors from Northern Districts Model Engineer Society.
 These guys build large high pressure boilers for locos etc.
I think I have found how the feathering is activated.  The cam rotates but  is fixed to the outer paddle box cover ahead of the shaft....this explains it all..obviously..but there is no mention anywhere of this!